Recently purchased a 2013 MK3 Focus. Had issues with the original battery not holding charge (would have to jump start it most mornings), so the place I bought it from sent me a replacement battery.

Car ran fine with no issues for a few weeks but then the ABS, Traction Control and Handbreak lights started to flash at random times. The speedometer/rev meter would also go to zero.

I did a bit of research and through it may be an issue with the new battery, so I tried resetting the BMS which hasn't resolved the issue.

Hoping I can just get a new battery, something like a Varta, and that will resolve the issue. But want to check here first before dropping money on a new battery incase it is something else.

This is the battery I was sent:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193869822366?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMIi-asnaCQ_AIVB7LtCh1Z1Ay5EAYYASABEgKEqvD_BwE

I have retrieved these DTC codes:

ABS U3003:17-68

Code: U3003 - Battery Voltage

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Circuit Voltage Above Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
 - Test not complete

Module: Antilock braking system

 Freeze Frame  #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 284468698 s (Sat Aug 02 17:27:26 2036) - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 121809 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 13.3 V - Control Module Voltage
-OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: -33 °C - Outside temperature

BCMii U2010:11-2C

Code: U2010 - Switch Illumination

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Circuit Short To Ground

Status: 
 - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Body Control Module

 Freeze Frame  #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 284465213 s (Sat Aug 02 16:29:20 2036) - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 121781 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 12.3 V - Control Module Voltage
-INCAR_TEMPERATURE: 72 °C - In car temperature

FCDIM U0423:68-08

Code: U0423 - Invalid Data Received from Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Event Information

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Front Control/Display Interface Module

 

ACM B1D55:11-2C

Code: B1D55 - Antenna #2

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Circuit Short To Ground

Status: 
 - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Audio Control Module

 Freeze Frame  #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 284469122 s - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 121817 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 13.8 V - Control Module Voltage
-INCAR_TEMPERATURE: 72 °C - In car temperature

 

I can tell you 100% that you do NOT have a battery problem, so save your money and don't replace it.

You most likely have 1 of 3 common faults. So here you go, not in any particular order.

(a) One of the wheel ABS wheel speed sensors is faulty. It may be the sensor itself, or the wiring/connector near the wheel which gets wet dirty and corrodes.

(b) The instrument cluster on your model is known to have poor solder joints on the back of it. The high resistance and intermittent connections cause spurious faults on the Canbus. The instrument cluster needs refurbished and all solder joints reflowed.

(c) Water is or has got in to the connectors of the Body Control Module. You need to disconnect the battery and then remove the plugs from the BCM and inspect for signs of water ingress, look for signs of greenish corrosion on the pins and on the circuit board.

I'm not sure what you are using to read the DTC's but if you don't already have it download FORScan and use the new vLinker FS cable. This will give you a full list of all Ford specific DTC's and allow you to monitor the ABS sensors.

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

I do agree with Unofix but more common on the mk2-2.5 Focus. I’ve never seen an EFB battery that cheap and have always gone for premium ones, but even they can have issues.

14 hours ago, unofix said:

I can tell you 100% that you do NOT have a battery problem, so save your money and don't replace it.

You most likely have 1 of 3 common faults. So here you go, not in any particular order.

(a) One of the wheel ABS wheel speed sensors is faulty. It may be the sensor itself, or the wiring/connector near the wheel which gets wet dirty and corrodes.

(b) The instrument cluster on your model is known to have poor solder joints on the back of it. The high resistance and intermittent connections cause spurious faults on the Canbus. The instrument cluster needs refurbished and all solder joints reflowed.

(c) Water is or has got in to the connectors of the Body Control Module. You need to disconnect the battery and then remove the plugs from the BCM and inspect for signs of water ingress, look for signs of greenish corrosion on the pins and on the circuit board.

I'm not sure what you are using to read the DTC's but if you don't already have it download FORScan and use the new vLinker FS cable. This will give you a full list of all Ford specific DTC's and allow you to monitor the ABS sensors.

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

Thanks for the response.

I got the codes from FORScan. I will try and investigate those possible causes.

Another related issue has also occured; whilst driving along with the lights and speedometer issue, there has been a momentary loss of power steering and the car clock resst. Does this narrow down the issue?

Have you got a multimeter ?

Measure the battery terminal voltage approx 1 hour after parking. What is it exactly ?

Also I would recommend now clearing all the DTC's using FORScan. I suspect many of those codes are old and not relevant to the current problem.

1 hour ago, unofix said:

Have you got a multimeter ?

Measure the battery terminal voltage approx 1 hour after parking. What is it exactly ?

Also I would recommend now clearing all the DTC's using FORScan. I suspect many of those codes are old and not relevant to the current problem.

Dont have a multimeter, used the cars built in test menu and it was 12.1v with engine off and 14.7v with engine on.

The instrument cluster test menu is not particularly accurate.

The instrument cluster test menu shows the input voltage of the instrument cluster. It is basically the output voltage of the DC/DC converter and not the battery voltage.

6 hours ago, jrfisher said:

used the cars built in test menu and it was 12.1v with engine off

This is not the battery voltage, it is the instrument cluster as said above. You need to spend £10 and get a little digital multimeter.

Old post but i had this problem after a battery change and for me the problem was the negative cable.

For some reason it was a bit loose