I'm new to this rolling oval stuff.

[BluAndJay]

Hey guys, I have 2 Ford 2.0TDCi's, I have a 57 plate 2008 S Max Titanium and a Mondeo Zetec 2010 (Both Manual) I'm taking delivery of the Mondeo on Friday (it's a free car off my grandad) and the S Max I've had for about 4 to 5 months, both are good cars but both suffer from the same problem.

 

When cruising along in 4th doing say about 30 - 35MPH, the car (both) judder like hell, when I drop it down a gear it's perfectly fine right up until you want to cruise at a certain speed and same again, judders. Both have been serviced, both have had the fuel filter changed, both have had injectors cleaned (removed, rebuilt, both cars had leaky injectors) S Max has had the return pipes all replaced (one was split) the S Max has had the clutch replaced with all brand new fluids in the gearbox and what not. There is no EML on. Only thing that happens is they go in limp mode when flat out in 3rd, get to 55 - 60 and car increases power and then dies flat on it's face, read codes (pulled over) and didn't come up with anything at all, all clean, not even a live data reading showed anything wrong with either car, I've tried running diesel cleaner through (I personally thing this crap is a con, seriously), changed diesel to Shell V Power, BP Ultimate and still the same. I've run through all of the tiny vac pipes replacing what I thought needed replacing and even put zip ties on to hold them on for a bit more of a seal, still the same. They haven't been mapped or messed with in terms of EGR delete, Cat/DPF removed, they're all 100% completely stock. 

If there is anything else I've possibly missed or you feel like you know then please let me know, it'll be greatly appreciated, thank you in advanced. 

If the only way to sort out is by upgrading then I'm game. 

 

Also the 2.0TDCi S Max isn't a "keeper" car, if anyone is selling a 2.5T S Max cheap, please, let me know.

[unofix]

What are you using to to do the diagnostics ?

Most generic code readers (even the expensive ones) will not read all of the Ford specific DTC's

[BluAndJay]

2 hours ago, unofix said:

What are you using to to do the diagnostics ?

Most generic code readers (even the expensive ones) will not read all of the Ford specific DTC's

Is there a Diag you can put my way so i can buy it and find out whats up with it? Please.

 

I'm a mechanic by trade so....

[nicam49]

Yeah, just to add, you need a code reader that runs Forscan. This will recognise Ford-specific codes, not just genetic OBD ones. I can recommend inexpensive readers from Tunnelrat electronics (Google them). Email them if you're not sure which model to buy. They do one that  runs on a Windows laptop, Forscan download is free! and one that runs on Android. (mobile device) Forscan download is a modest charge.... Any Qq?s, just ask and we'll try to answer. 

[unofix]

Yon need a Windows Laptop running 7, 8, or 10.

Download FORScan (free for the limited version and about £12 for the full version).

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

For connection of the OBDII port to the laptop use vLinker FS

vLinker FS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JUTA-VLINKER-FS-Adapter-Diagnostic/dp/B0BB5SDNZ2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3S4XBYIBPQWRV&keywords=vlinker+fs&qid=1697045476&s=automotive&sprefix=vlinker+fs%2Cautomotive%2C93&sr=1-4

There are two other versions of FORScan available for use on an Android Mobile or on an iPhone. The phone versions can read everything the Windows laptop version can, and they can clear codes and reset service indicators. The phone versions can not do any king of programming.

For android phones use vLinker FD and for iPhones use vLinker FD+

[BluAndJay]

Thanks for that guys, I forgot about the battery light been on on the Mondeo, battery has been replaced with a brand new one, alternator was replaced not long ago (not sure if the correct one or not as he went cheapest option) but car drives fine, nothing weird going on with it minus the battery light, charges at 14.4V. This another Forscan thing? 

[unofix]

4 hours ago, BluAndJay said:

charges at 14.4V.

That's wrong. The smart charging system is not working and the alternator has gone in to default charge mode, eventually given enough time it will potentially overcharge the battery.

[nicam49]

It could just be that the smart charge plug on the alternator isn't in properly. I had mine out recently and it was quite difficult to push the plug fully home. You'll hear a click when it's in correctly. 

[BluAndJay]

19 hours ago, unofix said:

That's wrong. The smart charging system is not working and the alternator has gone in to default charge mode, eventually given enough time it will potentially overcharge the battery.

That's what I don't want to happen, I'm gonna look into a new alternator for it... 

[BluAndJay]

18 hours ago, nicam49 said:

It could just be that the smart charge plug on the alternator isn't in properly. I had mine out recently and it was quite difficult to push the plug fully home. You'll hear a click when it's in correctly. 

I got told it's the wrong alternator. This one is the cheapest one you can buy for this engine. probs doesn't have the "smart charge" system on it so......

 

Also in other news, finally got a fault code off the S Max and now the Mondeo, the codes (yes 2 of them on both cars, same codes on both) pointing towards the Boost Sol. Going to breakers tomorrow to hopefully get a few. Anything else worth grabbing while there? 

 

Next question, bottom arms on the Mondeo are wrecked (bushes) anyone know of a good place to get Poly bushes for these? I've ordered a complete Vogtland setup for the shocks and springs, brand new OEM top mounts when they're fitted. So it'll be nice to have the boat handle like a speed boat rather than a cruiseliner.

 

Reason I went Vogtland is cause I had them on my Cupra PD160 Ibiza 6L and they was FANTASTIC!! So going back to them for £390 all in, I ain't complaining.

[nicam49]

Woa! Steady on..... if you didn't run Forscan you won't have any sensible codes. (Ford ones) 

Boost solenoid.? What's that and what code(s) did you actually get…? 

Here's a test to do to see if your code reader can actually  pick up Ford codes. Pull (disconnect) the fuel rail pressure sensor from the common rail. Switch on, don't try to start 'cos it won't, then see if the reader picks up a code.