Hi can anybody advise???

A couple of days ago I had the engine management light and ad blue light come on with the ad blue system fault, engine won't start in 475 miles warning come up! I plugged in an old scanner and it comes up with reductant sensor issue/ low pressure and reductant sensor issue bank one. After watching some videos on YouTube it seemed that the most likely culprit was a wire shorting out/ rubbing on the chassis so this weekend I thought I would remove rear wheel liner and have a look and see if anything visible if so try repair myself as funds are tight at the moment. Last night I filled with adblue and reset the codes, today the engine management light has stayed off but the ad blue light and warning has stayed on then at lunchtime a guy from work noticed some pools of liquid on the road under the rear of the truck where the adblue tank is so I had a look and it appears that there is a leak as I'm sure there is adblue underneath the tank and and even on the spare wheel from when driving id say. Has anybody got any ideas and is this still something simple I could do myself or is it a (try find the money to put in a garage) type of problem? Sorry for rambling on, any tips or experience of the same thing would be fantastic, only had the truck for three months 

Difficult to advise without seeing exactly which part is leaking.

Could just be a split pipe between tank and injector.  Adblue will freeze at low temps so it could have burst a pipe in the cold last week.

If it's not the pipe or injector then you're looking at the pump or tank.  Ford sell them as one assembly and it's not cheap, but they can be bought used on eBay for less.

That makes sense! Will have a look thanks

 

Based on my very limited knowledge of Euro 6 & AdBlue, the parts do seem very expensive and the injectors and tank (usually PCB, accumulator and pump etc) can get clogged with crystallised urea.

If I ever have an AdBlue system I'd look into the additives that prevent this in order to try and avoid problems of that nature (More Snake Oil to be critically looked at!)

12 hours ago, Shearers said:

Based on my very limited knowledge of Euro 6 & AdBlue, the parts do seem very expensive and the injectors and tank (usually PCB, accumulator and pump etc) can get clogged with crystallised urea.

If I ever have an AdBlue system I'd look into the additives that prevent this in order to try and avoid problems of that nature (More Snake Oil to be critically looked at!)

As with most things on cars, I think it's generally lack of use that causes problems.  If the car gets used regularly with the Adblue constantly moving and being regularly emptied and filled with new then it shouldn't be an issue.

I do have a car with Adblue myself that hasn't been driven for a couple of years now.  I've been trying to find a way to test the Adblue system while stationary before it gets sent for MOT again, but can't find anything online.  (It's not a Ford, and my cloned dealership diags for that brand don't cover cars that new).

5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

I've been trying to find a way to test the Adblue system while stationary

This video gave me an understanding of the system and unless there's a way to bypass the control system, activate it with a scan tool or check any PIDs showing that it's operating, at the moment, I'm stuck?:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbS4VQtS2A8
Only other idea I'd have would be to clean and flush the tank (or suck out the old stuff and add the anti-crystallisation additive to fresh AdBlue to try to flush clean fluid through the injector - or remove and clean the injector as well)?

 

Video of injector:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-SxUY6XBUaU

Video of AdBlue tank:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/D404eaAMGUA

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Tk_oVGN_fGU

 

12 minutes ago, Shearers said:

Video of injector:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-SxUY6XBUaU

Video of AdBlue tank:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/D404eaAMGUA

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Tk_oVGN_fGU

 

Thanks D.  Sadly I'm unable to do any physical work now, which is also the reason the car hasn't been driven.  I was hoping that either a certain length of time idling or a set RPM speed might trigger an injection and flag any faults, but I haven't been able to find anything so far.  I have recently read that it only injects with a fairly high exhaust temp, which probably rules out ever being injected while stationary. 

Those videos are a bit worrying though.  Who thought placing a PCB in a tank of salty water was a good idea!?