Hi Ford fans

 

I've seen a number of posts here about dashcam installation but only 1 that has my specific problem and it was left unanswered. I'll try and be as detailed as possible. 

 

Kuga 1.8 Ecoboost from October 2016 (2017 model). Looking to wire the dashcam to a switched live fuse. 

 

Here's the diagram of my footwell fusebox

 

 

F56 to F64 cannot be used with a hardwire kit as the jumper fuse cannot fit due to the plug to the left

 

The famous F85 is switched live but using it causes the computer to throw numerous errors like lane control not working, road sign recognition not working. So a no go. 

 

The 20Amp fuses don't work with the camera at all. 

 

All other fuses are always live. I've tried F67, F71, F74, F75, F76, F81 and they are always live. I've also tried the empty F87, F87 and F89 and 2 of those are always live and 1 does not even have metal connectors inside. 

 

Ah yes and the 12v Power source is also always on. 

 

I've been to local halfords and they didn't want to do it as my camera wasn't purchased from them. 

 

Could this be the only Ford where a switched dash cam cannot be fitted?! I doubt that. But it's driving me crazy and as a first time Ford owner I'll appreciate the help. 

 

Thank you! 

1 hour ago, Bigmastiq said:

F56 to F64 cannot be used with a hardwire kit as the jumper fuse cannot fit due to the plug to the left

While it is normal to use the fuse tap with the wire to the left it is not essential in most cases.

The reason is if you fit the fuse tap "upside down" so the wire is on the right it means that the current for the dashcam will be drawing current though it's own fuse (typically 4A) and also through the host fuse.

So long as the existing (host) fuse is 15A or more then there will be no problems.

Although a dashcam is fused at around 4A, in reality once it has powered up and is running it takes only 1A. The additional load on the existing fuse will not cause an issue.

So in short, fit the fuse tap upside down and use a slot with an existing fuse of 15A or more.

Thank you, unofix. Upside down was a great idea and I thought it would work but then the fuse tap is still wider than the fuse itself and doesn't fit there. But also the fuses are still always live. That seems to be the main problem - finding a switched live fuse that's not F85. They don't seem to exist on my Kuga...

You can use Fuse F85 or F86 they are both only live with the ignition on.

Or if you want to use the rear fuse box in the luggage compartment then you can use Fuse F30, F32, F34, F35

F85 is out of bounds per my original post. The car computer goes nuts if I use that. And after the F85 fiasco I've been scared to try another critical component fuse (F86). I guess I'll give the luggage compartment fuse box a try, I have the schematic in the reference book. Thanks. 

I'm confused as to why F85 is throwing errors.  The piggy back fuse holder is literally just extending the fuse pins but nothing else should change.  Those errors make me think either the piggy back holder is faulty, or the fuse you take out of F85 has not been correctly inserted in the bottom slot of the piggy back, so the circuit is not complete as if F85 has blown.  I would recheck the piggy back while using F85.  The only way I could see those errors coming up from the piggy back is if the circuit was not being completed for the original fuse.

20 minutes ago, Hooliopaulio said:

The only way I could see those errors coming up from the piggy back is if the circuit was not being completed for the original fuse.

Fully agree.