Hi I have a 1l eco boost that over boosting, and has a turbo flutter due to the over boosting, I’ve changed the turbocharger and the boost solenoid, problem still consists, any help would be great 

Recirc valve?

It had a recirc valve with the turbo so don’t thin it would do that I’m starting to think maybe vacuum pipes 

1 minute ago, Dylanfezzy said:

It had a recirc valve with the turbo so don’t thin it would do that I’m starting to think maybe vacuum pipes 

The 1.0 EcoBoost wastegate is normally open.  It gets pulled closed by vacuum when you start the engine.

So to me that suggests the vacuum pump and pipes are all good.  Otherwise there wouldn't be any boost.  Seems more like a control issue.  Are the pipes the right way round on the new solenoid?

5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

The 1.0 EcoBoost wastegate is normally open.  It gets pulled closed by vacuum when you start the engine.

So to me that suggests the vacuum pump and pipes are all good.  Otherwise there wouldn't be any boost.  Seems more like a control issue.  Are the pipes the right way round on the new solenoid?

Yeah there the right way round 

8 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

The 1.0 EcoBoost wastegate is normally open.  It gets pulled closed by vacuum when you start the engine.

So to me that suggests the vacuum pump and pipes are all good.  Otherwise there wouldn't be any boost.  Seems more like a control issue.  Are the pipes the right way round on the new solenoid?

And before I put the new turbo on it was underboosting and over boosting since new turbo it’s only over boosting 

10 hours ago, Dylanfezzy said:

And before I put the new turbo on it was underboosting and over boosting since new turbo it’s only over boosting 

Not sure what's going on there then.  If you want to test the vac pipes & pump, just remove the vac pipe from the turbo, plug the end with a screw or similar and take it for a short drive.  If I'm right, there shouldn't be any boost at all with the vac pipe removed, and you should get limp mode with an underboost code.

Did you buy the car like this or has it only started recently?  I'm wondering whether it's had a bad remap.

Also wondering whether the wastegate was setup properly on the new turbo.  There is some adjustment on the actuator rod.  If you've got live diags on Forscan or even a basic OBD reader, see if it's boosting at or just above idle.  These shouldn't boost until around 2000rpm as far as I remember.

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Not sure what's going on there then.  If you want to test the vac pipes & pump, just remove the vac pipe from the turbo, plug the end with a screw or similar and take it for a short drive.  If I'm right, there shouldn't be any boost at all with the vac pipe removed, and you should get limp mode with an underboost code.

Did you buy the car like this or has it only started recently?  I'm wondering whether it's had a bad remap.

Also wondering whether the wastegate was setup properly on the new turbo.  There is some adjustment on the actuator rod.  If you've got live diags on Forscan or even a basic OBD reader, see if it's boosting at or just above idle.  These shouldn't boost until around 2000rpm as far as I remember.

I’ve had the car for years the cars definitely boosting before 2k revs as can just hear it and feel it, I’ve got forscan but down really know what I’m looking at 

cars going to ecoboost specialist as they say, see what they find lol 

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Not sure what's going on there then.  If you want to test the vac pipes & pump, just remove the vac pipe from the turbo, plug the end with a screw or similar and take it for a short drive.  If I'm right, there shouldn't be any boost at all with the vac pipe removed, and you should get limp mode with an underboost code.

Did you buy the car like this or has it only started recently?  I'm wondering whether it's had a bad remap.

Also wondering whether the wastegate was setup properly on the new turbo.  There is some adjustment on the actuator rod.  If you've got live diags on Forscan or even a basic OBD reader, see if it's boosting at or just above idle.  These shouldn't boost until around 2000rpm as far as I remember.

He also said could be the syronizing of the wet belt but I’d get other codes if it was that surely 

18 minutes ago, Dylanfezzy said:

He also said could be the syronizing of the wet belt but I’d get other codes if it was that surely 

Yes, there are plenty of codes for cam & crank sync.

Not sure how timing off could create overboost anyway.  It can't create any more exhaust gas to pass the turbine.

 

If you want to try Forscan live data, look for the graph icon.  Then choose MAP, baro and boost sensors, along with RPM and MAF so we have something to compare against.  Do it on the graph setting, instead of the chart setting.

To add to Tom's post above there may be Desired and Actual Boot Pressure PID's that are very useful.

I would also add Accelerator Pedal Position and Speed (VSS) as well so when you review things it makes a bit more sense.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes, there are plenty of codes for cam & crank sync.

Not sure how timing off could create overboost anyway.  It can't create any more exhaust gas to pass the turbine.

 

If you want to try Forscan live data, look for the graph icon.  Then choose MAP, baro and boost sensors, along with RPM and MAF so we have something to compare against.  Do it on the graph setting, instead of the chart setting.

Had car at garage today they still saying could be belt as I’ve changed everything they said they best thing to do is inspect wet belt, that’s cost 80 quid, think I should trust them or take it somwhere else  

37 minutes ago, Dylanfezzy said:

Had car at garage today they still saying could be belt as I’ve changed everything they said they best thing to do is inspect wet belt, that’s cost 80 quid, think I should trust them or take it somwhere else  

I still don't see how it could be the belt.

But if they are indeed EcoBoost specialists then they should know what they're doing...?

22 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I still don't see how it could be the belt.

But if they are indeed EcoBoost specialists then they should know what they're doing...?

Well they say they are as they do wetbelts but they probs will say that to get money out of me lol, gonna try another garage just in case, ik my belts needs doing but It if it’s not the belt I’d rather not get it done right as this time cuz ent got the funds

1 hour ago, Dylanfezzy said:

Had car at garage today they still saying could be belt as I’ve changed everything they said they best thing to do is inspect wet belt, that’s cost 80 quid, think I should trust them or take it somwhere else  

I’ll do some live data and post it on here as I’m clueless what I’m lookin at lol 

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

I still don't see how it could be the belt.

But if they are indeed EcoBoost specialists then they should know what they're doing...?

This is just before I go into limp mode 

I meant to say this earlier - do the MAP and Turbo Boost Pressure both read around 100 kPa with the Ignition on but the Engine not running, if not then it is reading wrong.

The other thing is that you minimise the size of the Graph so that more things fit in the Screen so you don't need to scroll and it is easier to compare the different values with each other.

If the Boost Pressure is genuinely maxing out at 295 kPa then that is too high as per the Fault Code, I'm not sure why though. The relationship between the MAP and Boost Pressure specifically and everything else does not look right but I can't put my finger on why though.   

2 hours ago, Tizer said:

I meant to say this earlier - do the MAP and Turbo Boost Pressure both read around 100 kPa with the Ignition on but the Engine not running, if not then it is reading wrong.

The other thing is that you minimise the size of the Graph so that more things fit in the Screen so you don't need to scroll and it is easier to compare the different values with each other.

If the Boost Pressure is genuinely maxing out at 295 kPa then that is too high as per the Fault Code, I'm not sure why though. The relationship between the MAP and Boost Pressure specifically and everything else does not look right but I can't put my finger on why though.   

Yeah I’ll check what they read with the ignition on tomoz, it is a weird problem I have can’t wrap my head around it, my only car so driving with mad sensor unplugged atm so it don’t overboost lol 

Just now, Dylanfezzy said:

Yeah I’ll check what they read with the ignition on tomoz, it is a weird problem I have can’t wrap my head around it, my only car so driving with mad sensor unplugged atm so it don’t overboost lol 

*maf*

19 hours ago, Tizer said:

I meant to say this earlier - do the MAP and Turbo Boost Pressure both read around 100 kPa with the Ignition on but the Engine not running, if not then it is reading wrong.

The other thing is that you minimise the size of the Graph so that more things fit in the Screen so you don't need to scroll and it is easier to compare the different values with each other.

If the Boost Pressure is genuinely maxing out at 295 kPa then that is too high as per the Fault Code, I'm not sure why though. The relationship between the MAP and Boost Pressure specifically and everything else does not look right but I can't put my finger on why though.   

Checked that there at the right reading 

13 minutes ago, Dylanfezzy said:

Checked that there at the right reading 

I think we can assume that they are reading correctly then, it was a bit of a long shot that they were giving duff readings. 

At Idle and normal tick over speeds the Turbo Pressure should stay at 100 and I would expect the MAP to be around 30.

Yeah I dunno what’s up with it