Hey everyone!

New here , forgive me i'm overstepping but I am completely in shambles lately as I've tried many things and can't seem to figure it out. 

2012 Ford Fiesta SE MK6, Automatic ~98K miles US SPEC

Have driven it for years like a charm with no issues, last week was running some errands and I parked outside a kiosk. Some lady started yapping about me stealing her parking spot (I had no clue). So I just started it again and moved it two parking spots to the left, went in the store and came out 1 minute later and I tried to start it and it would not start. Tried to jumpstart , and various other tricks and no go. Had to call a tow truck. 

Reads on the dash "Steering Assist Fault " Service Required, and "TCP OFF".  Below are the lights with the ignition on, but it wont turn over or even sounds like its trying to. Tried getting a new battery since the old one was due for a change (but still always started fine without issues), and it did not fix anything. Had a buddy come check it out and tried to use the scanner tool and it wouldn't read any codes. We tried to bypass the starter ("hotwire") through a relay and checked fuses and all seemed fine still couldn't get it to start. I've been hoping to start it through any means possible to get it to the mechanic but all has failed so far. Mechanic buddy thought it might be the key, tow truck guy said the same (due to the lock logo on the dash). 

 Seen tons of similar issues with the ford fusion but not sure if the same applies since I've been hearing tons of stuff ranging from steering rack to starting motor, to alternator. I'm inclined to think the issue is electric and likely something to do with the computers not communicating and preventing it from starting but at this point I really don't know what to do. Wondering if any of you experienced heads/enthusiasts might even have the slightest clue?

Thanks a lot in advance! 

This is the UK Ford Owners Club.

USA spec vehicle are very often different to UK/European models. What you have is a Fiesta Mk7 here.

You need to read the Ford specific DTC's using FORScan (not a generic code reader).

3 hours ago, unofix said:

This is the UK Ford Owners Club.

USA spec vehicle are very often different to UK/European models. What you have is a Fiesta Mk7 here.

You need to read the Ford specific DTC's using FORScan (not a generic code reader).

I apologize! I swear I did my best to read before posting and did realize it was mostly UK based but saw a lot other people from USA post so I figure it might be ok.

I will start looking around for someone with a FORScan for a start, thank you!

5 minutes ago, PeppermintBronner said:

I apologize! 

I don't think you need to do that! It's not at all obvious as it's a .com, not .uk, site and it's very hard to see UK Ford Owners Club anywhere other than at the head of the Forums list.

Always a pleasure to get comments from the States and elsewhere, but as Unofix has said, we can't always answer queries as specs vary and wildly different cars can have similar names, Fusion being just one.

I often go the other way and look at US sites to see what Fiesta owners are up to over there!

 

45 minutes ago, Eric Bloodaxe said:

I don't think you need to do that! It's not at all obvious as it's a .com, not .uk, site and it's very hard to see UK Ford Owners Club anywhere other than at the head of the Forums list.

Always a pleasure to get comments from the States and elsewhere, but as Unofix has said, we can't always answer queries as specs vary and wildly different cars can have similar names, Fusion being just one.

I often go the other way and look at US sites to see what Fiesta owners are up to over there!

 

Haaha yeah I used to frequent a lot of .co.uk forums back in the day, felt like it was fair game as long as English was the common language. That being said, I didn't think the cars varied greatly from EU to NA. I know you all got a few more manuals (I wish mine was a manual) and a few more diesels, but quite a surprise to know that they specs can actually vary greatly on a basic car like a Fiesta.

I saw someone selling a FORScan tool locally for $20 so I might go pick that up. Only problem is I have a macbook laptop only so I think that might pose a bit of a problem on its own. Man I'm so bummed about this issue it just came out the blue and I thought I would have been able to at least start it by now so I can hand over my problem to the mechanics! But I guess it will give me an opportunity to dive deeper and DIY a bit to get more motor savvy. I just hope I can figure out the issue sooner rather than later as opposed to shooting blanks and buying parts I dont need like I already did with the battery

EDIT: Oh I really have an MK7? Dang looks like Google lied to me I thought MK7 was 2017-23 (I just looked at the year) but you're right it is an MK7 (MK8 in Europe I guess?) Man really tricky hahaa. THanks for the correction and my bad on the mixup

2 hours ago, PeppermintBronner said:

I apologize! I swear I did my best to read before posting and did realize it was mostly UK based but saw a lot other people from USA post so I figure it might be ok.

Absolutely no need to apologise (English spelling 🤣) for anything.

I just didn't want you to think your post was getting ignored. If we can help, them we certainly will. Here below is details of FORScan which you can use yourself.

The links are to Amazon UK but I'm sure you will find them in Amazon US.

On 4/7/2024 at 8:59 PM, unofix said:

FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html

It's what many Ford owners use including some Ford technicians.

• vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

OR

• OBDLINK EX, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/OBDLINK-EX-FORScan-OBD-Adapter/dp/B081VQVD3F/ref=sr_1_5

For diagnostic use only:

• vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L
• vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

 

20 hours ago, PeppermintBronner said:

EDIT: Oh I really have an MK7? Dang looks like Google lied to me I thought MK7 was 2017-23 (I just looked at the year) but you're right it is an MK7 (MK8 in Europe I guess?) Man really tricky hahaa. 

Yes, it's a bit of a nightmare and causes much confusion but the UK and some other markets are one Mk in front.

This goes way back to 1999 when the Mk 4 Fiesta was very heavily facelifted to bring it in line styling-wise with the then new Focus Mk 1. In most markets this was regarded as a Mk 4 facelift but UK and a few other places referred to it as a Mk 5 and we've been one in front ever since.

So what we call a Mk 8 would have been a Mk 7 stateside, if you had ever got it. The last version was the Mk 8 facelift from late 2021 which we refer to as the Mk 8.5.

 

On 12/4/2025 at 2:21 AM, PeppermintBronner said:

 

Been trying a few things , no go. I'm about bend the knee and get it towed to the stealership and hoping they dont take an arm and a leg and bill me for more than what the car is worth. Anyone have any experience in going to the dealership for "undiagnosed" issues they couldn't figure out? I assume they'll charge me an initial diagnostic for a couple hundred and quote me for some exorbitantly high repairs and from there i'll either bite the bullet or pay the inspection and tow it back home?

I guess worst case scenario is they're able to tell me whats wrong and I can DIY... best case scenario is its nothing too crazy repair wise?

I'm just scared of them not being able to properly diagnose it and keeping it for weeks and ultimately it wont even be what they initially thought and i'm hit with the bill for a whole new car down payment.

On 12/4/2025 at 7:25 AM, unofix said:

This is the UK Ford Owners Club.

USA spec vehicle are very often different to UK/European models. What you have is a Fiesta Mk7 here.

You need to read the Ford specific DTC's using FORScan (not a generic code reader).

Do you by some off chance have experience using the FORScan tools? I bought a vgate vlinker and tried to connect it after i downlaoded all the drivers and downlaoded the forscan tool and I received a "unable to connect to vehicle. Please make sure the ignition key is ON and try again." Yes, the ignition is turned properly and the scanner is plugged in properly and lights up...

I did have the first mechanic that came to check it out also say he had issues connecting it which I guess would confirm my ford is having electrical issues (unless i'm doing something wrong).

Guess I've no choice but to call the dealership at this point and see if they can properly diagnose it. Hoping they have a mobile mechanic service or i'll have to arrange a tow truck drop off.

1 hour ago, PeppermintBronner said:

Do you by some off chance have experience using the FORScan tools?

Yes I use both the laptop and mobile phone versions.

What version of Windows does your laptop have ?

Do you know anyone with any type of Ford that you could just plug in to and check your setup is working ?

If you have a multimeter then you can measure the resistance of the two Canbus networks. Each one should be 60 Ohms, if either measures 120 Ohms then the network loop is open circuit.

On 12/15/2025 at 1:10 AM, unofix said:

Yes I use both the laptop and mobile phone versions.

What version of Windows does your laptop have ?

Do you know anyone with any type of Ford that you could just plug in to and check your setup is working ?

If you have a multimeter then you can measure the resistance of the two Canbus networks. Each one should be 60 Ohms, if either measures 120 Ohms then the network loop is open circuit.

My brother in law has a raptor but they live a bit of a drive. I decided to bend the knee and have the tow truck take it to the stealership. Quoted at $242 USD just for a diagnosis and could take 5-10 days based on how busy they are. Hoping its something minor like a fuse and not the whole steering rack but we'll see how it goes. Considering I just got a "trade in offer" from the dealership at $1300, hard to justify a huge repair on my fiesta... even at 98K miles and having already done 100k service...

"the tech took a look at your vehicle he did find the engine had coolant intrusion in the cylinders.  He is recommending replacing the the engine I will send you over the recommendation"

Does that sound right? Considering I got the head gaskets rebuilt at around 70k and coolant did overflood in some brown gunky liquid, but it has been fine ever since and no "engine" problems (i assumed the mechanic who rebuilt the head gaskets flushed everything?) Although I did notice that the coolant was slowly decreasing under the "min" line whenever I checked under the hood gradually.

Is this really likely considering the car was fine then all of a sudden I parked it and it wouldnt started 5 minutes later and doesnt even crank? Still thinking its more "electric" due to the inability for it to crank and that it was fine beforehand..  Anyone have any experience with this? Chat GPT says it could be something like a the engine being hydro-locked?

Y'all aint gonna believe what happened next:

When I started pressing the dealership about why the engine replacement costs more than the vehicle itself (they quoted me at $11,000 USD) and why they mention long cylinder block when its a naturally aspirated -- they said they haven't diagnosed my vehicle and actually quoted me on a different vehicle after he talked to the mechanic and he said "huh" and they actually think its an electrical issue on mine and they'll get around to it within the next day or two...

This is an official Ford dealership... charging me $240 for a diagnosis and misquoting me at $11K. yikes

Just as well that you took it to a professional outfit 🤣

Finally heard back from the dealer and this is what they said:

"Powertrain Control Module Replacement - The powertrain control module requires replacement due to suspected internal damage, as it failed to communicate with the vehicle during testing and caused intermittent starting issues. Replacing this module can help restore reliable engine operation and proper system communication. A second key is needed for reprogramming the new module; if unavailable, a new key will need to be cut and programmed."

quoted: $978.55 (USD) ... I also don't have a second key so I assume this will add an additional $200-300? 

What really gets me is "suspected internal damage"... what if this isn't the issue... 

Would you all go ahead and do it? I'm just wondering if they were able to get it to start or if starting with a second key might be the option in the hopes that it starts? A few of the people like the tow truck driver said it could be the key 

On 1/5/2026 at 7:34 PM, PeppermintBronner said:

Would you all go ahead and do it?

No.  Engine ECU faults are very rare.

If the ECU is faulty, it could be cheaper to send it to an electronics company for repair.  Ford dealerships won't be able to do that.

On 1/6/2026 at 11:51 AM, TomsFocus said:

No.  Engine ECU faults are very rare.

If the ECU is faulty, it could be cheaper to send it to an electronics company for repair.  Ford dealerships won't be able to do that.

Thats what I initially thought, but after doing some research with AI and the few friends that couldnt identify the issue and labeled it as a likely electronic issue , I just bit the bullet. Apparently a new PCM mostly involves programming it and basically the dealership is best at it , although I could buy some pre-flashed ones on ebay , the labor work and needing to call a locksmith to see if they can flash it with one key instead of two essentially saved me $200 of labor at most with no warranty so I opted for the stealership to do it. Plus they said the $260 diagnostic fee would apply towards this repair so I figured instead of dealing it with getting towed back and the dead money I might as well move forward... Boy oh boy does the story get more intricate.

The service manager didnt want to replace the cabin air filter I had in the trunk (said he needed to bill me additionally for labor since its tricky) , the car was returned dirty ( i understand a lot of dealerships dont wash it anymore but after 20 days in their lot and refusing to do the cabin air filter I thought they might do it out of common courtesy) and last but not least I realized that on their multi point inspection they marked my engine air filter as "pass" when it looks like the following:




Just to be clear -- this isn't a "pass" under any self respecting reasonable mechanic , yes?

I didn't even mention that the check engine light went on less than 48 hours and 50 miles since I drove off the lot. I went and got the code inspected at my local autoparts store and it marked code p0420 (catalytic converter) and was under a "permanent code" ... SMOG is due here this month so I cant renew the registration and likely wont pass smog cause of this (the car had always passed smog previously and had no check engine light on before it died on me) -- this is likely due to the new PCM being installed on an older car and not calibrated correctly to the aged parts/sensors -- right? 

Surely if its labeled a permanent its likely it was present during their test calibration run (they drove it 30 miles) and then just cleared it / reset it and sent me on their way yeah? Or am I being too much of a conspiracy theorist now. Any input/thoughts appreciated! thanks guys

It's difficult to advise as your garages and Ford dealers seem to work a bit differently to ours.  (Though not any more effectively!)

P0420 can be cleared with a code reader.  It might just have been caused by the car being unused for so long.  I would give it a new air filter, new spark plugs and chuck some Cataclean (or equivalent) in the fuel tank.  Then it should pass the smog test.

You may need to clear the code manually with a code reader if it doesn't clear itself.

If the code returns after all that, or if it does fail the smog test, then the cat might be worn out now.  They hate raw petrol going through them, which may have been happening during start attempts and fault diagnosis.

12 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

It's difficult to advise as your garages and Ford dealers seem to work a bit differently to ours.  (Though not any more effectively!)

P0420 can be cleared with a code reader.  It might just have been caused by the car being unused for so long.  I would give it a new air filter, new spark plugs and chuck some Cataclean (or equivalent) in the fuel tank.  Then it should pass the smog test.

You may need to clear the code manually with a code reader if it doesn't clear itself.

If the code returns after all that, or if it does fail the smog test, then the cat might be worn out now.  They hate raw petrol going through them, which may have been happening during start attempts and fault diagnosis.

Considering my car never "cranked" because of the PCM -- would this be a non-issue? Not sure if i'm explaining my self but its not like it tried to "turn over" at all and you heard the engine give it a go, it was like the computer locked it from cranking at all and therefore it was no "engine" involvement at all, it was more like a switch/electronic sound (like if the computer prevented it from cranking and "locked it" from connecting to the engine) -- so therefore I'm not sure if the raw petrol going through could have even been an issue -- if this makes sense.

On 1/12/2026 at 12:09 PM, TomsFocus said:

It's difficult to advise as your garages and Ford dealers seem to work a bit differently to ours.  (Though not any more effectively!)

P0420 can be cleared with a code reader.  It might just have been caused by the car being unused for so long.  I would give it a new air filter, new spark plugs and chuck some Cataclean (or equivalent) in the fuel tank.  Then it should pass the smog test.

You may need to clear the code manually with a code reader if it doesn't clear itself.

If the code returns after all that, or if it does fail the smog test, then the cat might be worn out now.  They hate raw petrol going through them, which may have been happening during start attempts and fault diagnosis.

As an update... it did end up passing the smog with some cataclean. I had gotten the spark plugs replaced maybe 5-10k miles ago and the air / cabin filters in the past few weeks. I did buy a new O2 sensor but my mechanic said it wasn't needed (he went by diagnostic and not inspecting it -- wondering if I should still replace it given its near 100k miles). I used the cataclean as you suggested after my mechanic cleared the codes (did an italian tune up before I added it), then I drove it as chatGPT suggested (doing a "costing" slowdown from 60mph to 40mph about 3-5 times) and then went straight to the smog test place before the CEL lit up and the systems were marked as "ready". The smog tech did say it showed "pending 0420" code but that it doesnt always mean it wont pass... sure enough it passed and im relieved now I got 2 years before I gotta worry about it.

Obviously I think it may be time for a new cat converter, but 2 years is more than enough time to figure out the future of this car but in all reality im also questioning all of what the ford dealership did and said after all of this..!