Hi all, new here and looking for some help and advice. Have spent the last 2yrs doing an Mk7 St180 engine and gearbox conversion into a 1989 Mk3 Fiesta using an ANT Electronics Stand Alone ECU and wiring harness. Engine has various modifications such as X47R turbo, induction system, ported manifold, uprated pulleys, front mount intercooler etc. The guy who originally did the conversion has let me down on looking at the ongoing issues, so I have spent the last 12 months trying to work through the problems with another local tuner. I have also had a Stage 3 TRS 'running in' map installed. The main issue with the car is, once warm, the engine cuts out when the revs reach just over 2000rpm. You then have to try starting the engine again, but on the first time it seems to almost 'reprime' the fuel pump, then the second time, the engine will start. It ticks over fine, but does have the occasional lump/misfire.

So far, i have changed the following parts to no avail - low pressure fuel pump, high pressure fuel pump, fuel pressure sensor, injectors and fuel rail, crank position sensor, engine wiring harness, coil packs, MAF sensor, throttle position sensor and throttle body. But still no joy. The current fault codes showing on the Forscan system are B10A2 (Crash input, which can be cleared), P1935 (Brake switch sensor signal), P2121 (Accelerator pedal position sensor), P2122 (Throttle position sensor), U0001 (High speed CAN Communication BUS malfunction), P0191 (Fuel rail pressure sensor), P0087 (Fuel rail pressure too low), P053F (Cold start fuel pressure performance).

We have also checked the air intake system and EVAP systems for air leaks and both are holding pressure, so no issues there.

We now believe this must be something linked with an electrical circuit issue, but this is way above my technical knowledge.

If anyone has experienced anything like these symptoms/faults before and has any ideas what to look at next, that would be greatly appreciated.

Did you use an EFi fuel tank and pump? XR2i?

If there's no swirl pot and it's low on fuel that will cause loads of issues. Also check the fuel lines for kinks/poor routing and/or overheating, both feed and return

It could also be that the fuel pump simply can't feed enough fuel

Rule of thumb, you should always get the standard set up running correctly first, before modding

So i've used the standard ST180 fuel tank and run new fuel lines in as well, so to eliminate that issue. I've tried 2 different low pressure in-tank pumps and 2 high pressure fuel pumps , but made no difference. We've even checked the fuel pump relay to see if this was cutting out and all seems fine.

That crash input code could be the problem if it keeps coming back. It does cut off the fuel pump as it thinks a crash has occurred.

I'm not even sure how it's being triggered on a standalone ECU. Has the mapping been copied from an original ECU? Or is the original still connected as well as the standalone somehow? It's been 10 years since I worked with a standalone ECU so I'm sure the tech has changed in that time.

Hi Tom, so as i understand from how the ANT Electronics kit is 'sold', it comes with a standard ECU with standard map and modified wiring harness that just includes the engine bay and connections behind the dash. We did put a TRS stage 3 low boost map on for running in, but have since removed this, so to eliminate this from being the issue, so have reverted back to the original map for now. I guess there is a chance the ECU may have come from a damaged vehicle, so will see what happens once they clear this code.

7 minutes ago, Coxylee said:

Hi Tom, so as i understand from how the ANT Electronics kit is 'sold', it comes with a standard ECU with standard map and modified wiring harness that just includes the engine bay and connections behind the dash. We did put a TRS stage 3 low boost map on for running in, but have since removed this, so to eliminate this from being the issue, so have reverted back to the original map for now. I guess there is a chance the ECU may have come from a damaged vehicle, so will see what happens once they clear this code.

Thank you, that does make sense. This code can be a pain to clear. Often it will not clear with Forscan. Hopefully your current tuner will either have the kit to clear it, or will know someone else who does.