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Dashboard Stays On For Hours After Engine Off

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Hi all,

Dashboard problem - previously it has stayed on now and again, and going out and jiggling the key about in the ignition and waiting an hour has cured it. Not tonight.

Car was last used yesterday evening, and went to sleep straight away. Looked out the window, and the display had lit up again circa 3 hours after I left the car, and 2 since i'd last checked and seen it off. Went out, jiggled the keys about and it went off with in an hour. Double checked this morning, and it was still off.

Didn't use the car today, but this evening i look out the window, and the display has lit itself up again all on its own. On the common problems thread, it suggests this can be mended by bbereman cheaply - no other information than that.

My question is what (or who) is bbereman and will he be able to fix it, or is it more likely to be a knacked ignition barrel?

Only other thing "wrong" with the car i've seen recently, is a couple of weeks ago it was showing the lights as lit on the dashboard, and they definitely were not switched on. Lights have been on pretty much every journey since. Any ideas for a DIY fix, or is it to the garage again - I can't afford to let the battery go flat.

Cheers,

Nick



It could well be damp in the main fusebox causing a current to be drawn and keeping the system on stand-by.

That or a corroded/loose earthing point somewhere.

Sent using Ford OC mobile app

  • Author

The main one as in the one in the cabin (central fuse box)? Cars "asleep" again now, but i'll get it down and have a look at it tomorrow.

More likely the central box under the bonnet.

Mine stays on 24/7 I have kind of learned to live with it, but never really looked into it. If you do find exactly what it is please do share as I could probably benefit from it too! :p

  • Author

Jeebowhite, extensive research thus far suggests that a new igniton barrel will cure your problem, something to do with the microswitch on the steering lock not being depressed properly when removing the key.

However, once it is off it will not come back on if that is the problem.

I think Stoney may have correctly guessed the source of my problem - the fuse box under the bonnet. Here is a photo of it when I opened it up (I removed the ECU fuse to have a look under it - mild corrosion on the bottom most pin).

I'm guessing here, but I believe the last person who took the lid off didn't refit it correctly, and it has filled with dirt. Is it likely this is the cause?

If so, how difficult is it to remove the box and give it a proper clean? (only the photographed area is affected)

post-46679-0-72606200-1384522450_thumb.j

The light refers to the ecu still being on it does this anywhere from 20mins to 40 mins leds can effect this as say it goes off after 20 mins then the leds drain the last of there power the dash detects the change and the light can come back on for another 10 mins or so hours indicates something is not switching off the pcm module can develop a fault which will cause the issues you describe that will cost a lot of money

Yeah, my light doesnt worry me too much, but I dont believe I have a water ingress issue. Will have to see what I can find when I can be bothered to look harder lol

Shame there isnt a remote "kill battery" switch that I can activate :p

  • 2 years later...

Just picked up a high mile mk2 and out and about today in the wet it developed a bit of a glitch.

The car came back to life whilst I had locked it, with wipers coming on, lights and indicators.

The next time I stopped and came back to the car the heater was on as if the ignition was all on, but putting the key in wouldnt start the car.  Fixed it by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting.

The next time I stopped the engine did not turn off when I took the key out! Went through the start proceedure then stopped again and it decided to stop, but still with christmas tree lights and weird wipers, various dash beeps etc.

I suspect it is water in the PCM as the main culprit - but if anyone else can shed any light on it.

You need error codes for an accurate diagnosis but shorting out seems to be the culprit here

You say you just bought it? Garage or private?

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

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