Just got myself a kinetic 7001 DAB/FM amplifier and it needs a live feed when ignition is on. The instructions below say:

"The supposed +12V switched output from many radios is rather low. It is best, therefore, to connect the adaptor’s red power cable to the switched power supply (normally red) to the radio, not to the switched power supply (normally blue) from the radio. Ideally the connection should be via a 0.5 amp in-line fuse."

Haven't had the radio out to fit this yet, Can someone give a heads up as to which red wire on the multi-plug at the back of the radio, Presuming there maybe more than 2 red wires.

Thanks in advance.

Daz

Most stereos have two positives. One is switched and the other is permanent live in order to store the memory. Your best bet is to get a cheap voltage tester. The blue one from the radio would be to power an aerial or aerial amplifier. Cant remember the colour you need as I haven't taken one of these out for some time, but it is likely to be red, orange or yellow. As long as you use a tester on it you should be ok.

This diagram of the standard radio quadlock connections I made may be of use to you.

Thanks Clive, Just what I need.

daz.

Just got myself a kinetic 7001 DAB/FM amplifier and it needs a live feed when ignition is on. The instructions below say:

"The supposed +12V switched output from many radios is rather low.

So, this amplifier that you've bought is an aerial amplifier. The output from the radio is for driving a powered aerial or for an electric aerial (in days gone by). So, you'd expect the radio output to be able to drive this amplifier, but the instructions of kinetic amplifier ought to know better than I do what the drain of their device is.

However, do you ever use the radio when the ignition is off? If you do, you'll need either a supply which is switched with the radio, or which is permanently on. If you use a supply which is permanently on, then you'll have the permanent power drain, which could be an issue if you leave the car for extended periods without running it.

If they've suggested a 0.5 amp fuse, that is one upper limit on the current draw. The current ought to be way less than this (do they quote a figure?). You can multiply this by the number of hours that you might leave the car without running (remembering holidays, and at the airport, etc) and if this is a small percentage of the battery capacity, it probably isn't a big worry.

If you need to switch the amplifier's supply, and the output from the head unit doesn't do the job, you can get there with a couple of transistors, or something.

Nice diagram Clive.

Nice diagram Clive.

Tis' nuthin ;)

Hi

My suggestion is you take the 12V ign feed direct from the Fuse box.

This car has the CanBus System on the head unit.

Do not connect these product to perm 12V. You will only end in a flat battery one way or another.....

Norm as stated when it is in Gatwick airport after a nice break in Turkey for 2 weeks :-)

Cheers

Jono

Thanks for all the advice so far, I'm presuming "Silly of me" the ignition live at the rear of the radio thanks Clive:

is the same as 12v feed mentioned in "Jonathan" post above.

Hope so as, I don't really want to run a wire from the fuse box.

Daz.

That is true, but on the later vehicles the Ign 12V is not present at the quad lock connector on the radio.