Hello all

I'm looking to change my turbo in my mk3 mondeo for a hybrid turbo. I've been on the garratt website, it was talking in riddles. Anyone know what turbo I can upgrade my mk3 tddi fix vain turbo to? I do know my turbo is a gt20 model if that helps, the variable vain is gta17v

Thanks in advance

Don't waste your time/ money fitting a hybrid turbo, it increases lag and can put a big "hole" in the powerband, someone else on another forum fitted a hybrid turbo (remapped, decat/ staight-through exhaust and EGR delete as well) and managed to get only 125Hp out of his engine - not much more than the 113Hp/115ps stock amount!

I have a TDDI115 with a fixed vane (its vane not vain, that means something else!) as well, mine produces 160+ Hp and thats with the stock turbo - the engine pulls from low revs with 372Nm of torque from around 2k, i take junctions in 3rd (don't have to drop it into 2nd)

Ive done a lot of work to reduce lag, with an anti- lag system - the car has had a lot of money spent/ work done on it, and is probably the most powerful, fastest and most radical Mondeo TDDI (that i know of)

Have you remapped your car or fitted a tuning box?

EGR blanked?

A tuning box alone can add 30bhp on maximum power setting.

A better air filter and exhaust are good for a couple more.

TDI Tuning do a box for your car for about £260 an state about 144bhp with a small top speed increase.

Doesn't the tuning box just change the fuel ratio? Or have I read incorrect info

Suffice to say you put the tuning box on and the car is much quicker!

A tuning box or a remap will make the biggest differencs to the car - Superchips claim 147Hp (not far off the 2.2L) / 366Nm - thats just the Bluefin (remap) and no other modifications -

http://www.mybluefin.co.uk/curves/mondtd.pdf

A quality tuning box can achieve similar results -

http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/vehicle-ford_mondeo_2.0-tddi-115-ps

There is a lot of BS floating about the net and it must be difficult to recognise the fact from fiction, and the muppets from the experts - Tuning companies/ performance parts suppliers can make exaggerated/ ridiculus claims as well, and some dynos are more "highly tuned" than others

If you want to know anything about tuning the Mk3 TDCI / TDDI - ask me - ive pobably already done it/ fitted it tested it and dynoed- it

More -

Once you have the tuning box or remap installed, it is difficult to get much more power out of this engine, a different air filter does not increase power because it is not the most restrictive part of the inlet, and the filter is the same as the 220Hp ST220 or the ST-TDCI, a K&N panel filter may help the engine produce more power low down before the turbo kicks in, and improve throttle response - it will not increase power/ torque in the band much (0 to 2 Hp - you would not even notice that)

A back box delete/ straight through pipe (including decat) is worth 8-10Hp though - the back box is very restrictive and de-restricting the exhaust helps the turbine spool up (much) quicker - you can retain the middle silencer - its a "straight through" type - there were some very silly people getting these the wrong way round (keeping the back box and removing the middle sitencer- d-oh) - the turbine/manifold cuts the exhaust noise down a fair bit and with the middle box in place not exessively loud (fixed vane)

You can heatwrap the downpipe - worth a couple of HP

With the 2-1/4" system, its approaching optimal, you can go up to a 2--1/2"(the entire lengh of the exhaust- no point doing it to only one bit) but there is not a lot of point going bigger ( under 2-litre/ 400Hp) - a single pipe is best - twin pipes just add weight and do not increase power (they are mainly for show)

A later, TDCI airbox-to-turbo hose flows better than the TDDI one, and you can de-web/ gas flow the airbox, the gas-flowed stock airbox works better than any induction kit i have tried

A solid EGR blanking plate is almost essential for a Euro3 Mk3 mondeo - you can completely delete the EGR system for a little bit more power/ economy/ reliability

I have my egr blanking plate. Can you answer me this. Which side is it going the block side or the outlet of egr? Also how do I stop the egr functioning when the plate is fitted. Is it just a matter of removing the vac pipe for it?

I have my egr blanking plate. Can you answer me this. Which side is it going the block side or the outlet of egr? Also how do I stop the egr functioning when the plate is fitted. Is it just a matter of removing the vac pipe for it?

Either side of the EGR valve will block the exhaust gasses, the exhaust side is the hot side, so the plate will protect the EGR valve from the heat if its on one side, or vice-versa if its on the other

if the valve is still connected it will open an close uselessly and do nothing - if you put a ball bearing (tight fit) in the vaccum hose this will disable it, and stop it wearing itself out

You can completely remove the EGR system, there is a small performance advantage

How do you go about removing it completely? What would you say the most effective mod you have do to reduce lag?

Honestly wouldn't bother changing your turbo unless you are fully bolted and find your current turbo running out of puff. Only way to try and get rid of lag is to have it mapped out but even still you may find the pick up not as instant as you'd like.

How do you go about removing it completely? What would you say the most effective mod you have do to reduce lag?

It is very difficult to remove lag completely (as D has suggested) a bigger turbo can increase lag because of its larger mass-

On the TDDI there is only useful power between about 2k-3.5/4k (in fact the peak power on some TDDIs is 3.3k - there is no point in revving it past its peak power,it becomes a virtual "redline" unless you are in top gear) so unlike a high-revving petrol engine, it is difficult to get these engines to rev, so a bigger turbo may not increase the top end power/ revs, but reduce the bottom end on a petrol engine the powerband can often be raised to higher revs　

On mine its not one thing but several mods that reduce lag, the electronic boost controller (monitors the boost levels and has an anti-lag programme built in) and the straight-through exhaust (helps the turbine spin up quicker) probably makes the biggest difference, along with other things, the Superchips remap (rev3) was also specially adapted for the car, and reduces lag - as the fixed-vane turbo can suffer from lag if not set-up right

All the modifications work in harmony together (not just miss-matched parts like turbos/intercoolers that are too big/missmatched) and are part of an anti-lag "strategy"

Somewhere on the internet there is talk of a 160Hp supercharged mini was quicker off the line than a 400hp STI because the mini had no lag and the STI had a lot