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Please Help, My Garage Cannot Find Fault With My 1998 Escort Si

Bee Girl

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My Escort stars when cold, runs perfectly, but if I leave the engine off for 40 mins, it will not start - it turns over and starts, but will not run. The more times you try to start it, the less it tries to run, until it just turns over.

My garage have fitted a new coil, tested the fuel pump and fitted 2 new fuel related sensors and now a new crank shaft sensor - fault still persists.

Does anybody know what part to try next?

We have been together a long time, don't want to part with my Escort!

Somebody please help.

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Sorry to hear about you car, but-

Your description does not seem to make sense

If the engine starts, it must also run (if only for a short time) because its the same thing

when you put the key in the ignition and turn it fully, and the engine turns, that is turrning over (before the engine fires)

When an explosion actually occurs in the combustion chamber, that is when the engine fires, it is possible for the engine to fire, just for a second but not start, or run, when the engine is working as it should, it turns over fires, starts and runs (in that order)

If it starts and runs for just a few seconds, it fires, starts and runs for a few seconds (it cannot start and not run) it can fire and not start (and not run)


it sounds like the garage really does not no what is going on and is randomly replacing parts untill it stumbles across the fault, this is bad practice, its good for them because you are paying them for their time, but not so good for you becase you are the one paying - eventually, you can replace every part (at great expense)

In general, you should find out if your engine is getting a spark, (or not) or getting fuel, (or not) this will isolate the fuel and ignition systems - the fact the at the garage has replaced ignition and fuel related components means this has not been done

I have no idea if it is obd/ obd2 etc,or an early version have the fault codes been read?

"modern" garages/ mechanics are heavily reliant on diagnostics/ fault codes, without these, they are often "lost" or "in the dark" - what you need is an "old school" mechanic, that is used to working on cars like yours

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  • 2 weeks later...


2 things to check.

1:-crank case breather could be blocked.

2:-check for any water ingress to the main harness junction near the bulkhead.(a little WD40 may help here).


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  • 3 weeks later...

I wouldn't spend any more money on parts until you've eliminated this,

Trace and remove the fuel lines from the tank, undo them at each end, and blow them out with an airline. Do all you can to obviously eliminate every pipe. Most importantly do one from the tank. Any small deposits in the fuel can be sucked along upon creating a flow when you try and start the car. These deposits will then block the first component in line and make your blockage - bad starting. The car will start easily when cold because they will sink back to a low point in the pipes.

I would advise to do this process when it's got hardly any fuel left so run it down first! Then you can drain the tank, wasting very little £ ! Blow or swill the tank through with a bit of new fuel, and then refill with nice clean new stuff from a can you must prepare prior.

Remember you may not even see and grit or tiny rust bits etc coming out when you do these processes. It can be the smallest of bits that will cause the problem.

Disregard all this if I didn't understand your description!

Hope to be of help, let us no how you get on, and don't get rid of the car!

Old Fords do it sideways

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  • 2 weeks later...

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