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A Multitude Of Problems.. 1.6 Tdci 05 Plate

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hey up folks, im having a few issues with the missus car.

First question is, is our car, an 05 focus C-Max a mk1? i think it is. (thats not an issue btw! :P )

1, Ok so, the fuel guage has stopped working. I dont believe there is a problem with the pump or fuel getting to the engine, but the guage has stopped working.

2, The windscreen washers are no longer sending water to the front or rear of the vehicle (Yes there is water in the bottle!)

3, The rear windscreen wipe is acting like its 105 years old and wont do a complete wipe of the rear window- knackered motor?

4, There are occasions when there is a great loss of power, it wont rev over 3krpm and takes forever to get there... i am working on this mainly as i investigate the EGR and if my car has a DPF or not.... opinions welcome!

5, Is there a boot switch in the car anywhere? it can be quite onerous pressing the key fob all the time!

6, The boot sometimes opens.. malfunctions. The locking system is like a 2 stage lock, and when it malfunctions, it escapes the first lock but wont open. im going to take a look and see if the bootlock is misaligned or so- again opinions welcome :-)

7, Our front ciggy lighter does not work :-(

8, spare key- our spare key has snapped at the metal. can i go to a high street locksmith to get a replacement cut and the fob attached, or is this a ford special only?

trying to work through these one by one. most of these issues came with the car im afraid :-(

Thanks in advance

Dave



  • Author

oh yeah and one other thing.. sorry... does everyone else's fan stay on for quite a long time after the car has stopped and engine turned off? we had the recall recently and i thought it was to solve this problem to stop the fan from staying on after the car has been left... after reading another post im not so sure now :-s

1, Ok so, the fuel guage has stopped working. I dont believe there is a problem with the pump or fuel getting to the engine, but the guage has stopped working.

This could be the Fuel Sender unit. I suspect the issue is that its stuck. Take your car for a drive over some bouncy terrain, something like a cobble road or over a few speed bumps. If its stuck, this should loosen it. I had this after an accident in my Focus (van crashed on motorway, I ended up driving over the bumper and it smashed into the fuel tank locking the FSU) mine fixed itself after a few bumpy runs


2, The windscreen washers are no longer sending water to the front or rear of the vehicle (Yes there is water in the bottle!)

This sounds like your water pump. Start by pressing the button - do you hear any motor whirring? if not, check the fuse first off and see if the fuse is blown. If its not blown and there is no noise you need a new water pump. You might as well get the timing belt changed at this point as they have to strip it all off anyway.

Alternatively, if the pump makes noise, it could be that its just blocked.

3, The rear windscreen wipe is acting like its 105 years old and wont do a complete wipe of the rear window- knackered motor?


Sounds like a good bet. Pick one up from a breakers or something to get it cheaper.

4, There are occasions when there is a great loss of power, it wont rev over 3krpm and takes forever to get there... i am working on this mainly as i investigate the EGR and if my car has a DPF or not.... opinions welcome!

I had this and it was a blown turbo pipe, check my signature for "how to replace the intercooler pipe" for more details. You need to check if the thing is blowing at all - do you get any black smoke on heavy acceleration? it could also be the EGR needs blanking, I did both of these and the car was fantastic afterwards.


5, Is there a boot switch in the car anywhere? it can be quite onerous pressing the key fob all the time!

Sadly not. Its button on the door, or button on the fob only. Under the tailgate you will have (centre of number plate) a rubber cover, press that to pop the boot. If it doesnt work, then you need to replace the micro switch, a relatively easy job and even I managed to do it with very rusty and basic soldering skills.

6, The boot sometimes opens.. malfunctions. The locking system is like a 2 stage lock, and when it malfunctions, it escapes the first lock but wont open. im going to take a look and see if the bootlock is misaligned or so- again opinions welcome :-)


This sounds like your boot switch is stuffed, you will likely need to follow the advice I posted above.


7, Our front ciggy lighter does not work :-(

Probably just a blown fuse, its worth checking the fuse over to make sure its not blown.

8, spare key- our spare key has snapped at the metal. can i go to a high street locksmith to get a replacement cut and the fob attached, or is this a ford special only?

What tye of key is it? if its only the standard flat blade round head, then you can buy a replacement off ebay, get the locksmith to cut the key, then you can take the transmitter from your existing key and put it on the newly cut blade.

Hope this helps!

Picking up the topic of the DPF, I didnt realise I contradicted myself in the welcome thread, I wonder if perhaps I was miles away and fell back into the thought it was a Focus!

If your still having the issue, contact Ford Customer Services, and get them to clarify if you do or do not have a DPF, however, it sounds like (although they told me they DO NOT) I am wondering if perhaps they do, or your car does, not sure why that is the case to be honest!!!

I would suggest that it would be cheaper to look into DPF removal to be honest, its about £380 for that and a remap and would get rid of it altogether. As long as the place you go to "guts" the DPF (i.e. leaves the canister, removes the insides of it, welds up the canister again) and then remaps it to get DPF out of its system then you should be fine.

  • Author

holy moly! the waterpump for the engine drives the water for the washer jets!! :cry::cry::cry:

on my fto it was a separate pump unit at the bottom of the washer bottle.

Thanks for the advice and options. ill try and look into them the weekend..

is the fuel sender unit on the back of the instrument cluster?

Fsu is in the fuel tank :-) and I think I owe you an apology for the heart attack just checked the old Haynes manual and the washer pump is straight in the bottom of the washer reservoir not on the engine e one, so apologies for giving you a heart attack!

  • Author

lol, thanks for that, yes you did nearly give me a heart attack! hahaha

so one more thing... when you do an engine modification such as the ERG or air filter or dpf, do you need to do an engine ecu reset or anything? on the FTO the ecu 'learns' and adapt to the changing conditions and i wondered after doing one of these said modifications or cleans, if the ecu needs to be disconnected and idled for 20 mins afterwards?

Thanks

Dave

If you blank the egr you need do nothing, did removal would require remap to remove it, again nothing needs to be done then, air filter, well if you want more power it will come but if you want it sooner, disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes will do the job

  • Author

Oh ok lovely thanks for that. My blanking plate arrived today so I'll give cleaning the egr and blank it off a go tomorrow hopefully. I would be interested in the dpf internal surgery and re map option. Does the re map gain fuel efficiency?

Saying that I do want to try the fluid first. What do people suggest cleaning the dpf with, Wynne's for example?

Wynns can help defer the problem but it needs a forced regeneration really or at least a decent passive regeneration.

Remap will definitely increase efficiency.

  • Author

Thanks for that, I've just asked about this on Facebook and I've heard about this passive and forced. Sorry it's new to me. How do you 'do' each of these?

Forced is dealer only it someone with ids, can't remember but I think forscan now does this also in its alpha / beta testing.

Pass e is where you take it on a motorway, keep the engine high revs, get it hot maintain the speed and the engine will build the heat which will start the passive regeneration, maintain speed for say 15-30 minutes and thats enough to do the passive regeneration. You may find you need a new level of eolys fluid, or mileage dependant maybe a new dpf filter again, the removal is cheaper

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