hey up me again.... sorry for the individual posts..

some of the error codes ive been getting are to do with the fuel additive.

my question- what the hell is this, where does it go.. and how much is it to fix it.. lol?

is this an additive for combustion or for the DPF?

Thanks

Dave

Its for the DPF but is added to the fuel in the tank. It allows the soot to burn in the DPF at a lower temperatue.

Have these codes only just appeared? They might be old ones if not. I had about 20 codes when I first scanned my car, not been scanned for years I guess! Only one comes back atm (DPF fault unfortunately, which I'm looking into).

What are the codes about? Additive empty?

there are three related to the additive- the control module etc etc... i thought this cats p1ss additive is added into a seperate little tank under the car? i am looking at buyingthe fluid and doing it myself but im looking for a 'how to' on filling (or first checking the ) little additive tank.

Ive been reading about this issue and sooo many cars (esp my cars age) have been suffering with the same issue.

The red light and error only came on the other day- see thread here:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/63551-fatal-engine-problem/

basically ive been battling with error codes, EGR, and DPF since we got it, and now im finally starting to understand it and wish we didnt buy it.. however im determined to make it work.. ive ordered new injector seals, and a few other parts to try and get it back to working order...

Yeah sorry I didn't explain that clearly. The additive is in a separate tank by the fuel tank. But when you fill up the diesel, a bit of the additive gets injected into the fuel tank at the same time.

The additive tank on my Focus is black, so can't see the level, I don't know if that's the same for the CMax though, its directly behind the main tank. To fill it up, you can buy a kit (seen them on ebay) which has a long hose and proper pipe clips on it. You just clip the pipe onto the additive tank, hold the bottle of additive high, above the car and gravity forces it into the tank, when it spills over the tank is full.

Does look like you're having some issues with it! Seems you get good and bad DV6 engines...I'm hoping mines a good'un but already having DPF problems.

right after lots of reading later:

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=81959

i think ive hit a hard reality....

i think im going to have to cut my losses and go for DPF internal surgery and a remap.

The car of our age 55 plate on 95k, its due a new DPF entirely if ive understood what ive read correctly, so rather than buy expensive fluid or have faith in the DPF, im thinking it would be better to spend £300 and get rid of the problem altogether....

The question i now have is....

If you have internal DPF surgery, and a remap to go with this... what happens to this fuel additive tank then?

Let me explain.. i dont need the additive as i dont need to burn anything out of the DPF per se...

so if the additive tank is empty, then will it still show these errors and engine systems fault warning lights? or is this what the remap does?

Kind regards- oh and if anyone knows where around Luton ish area is trustworthy and not too expensive to have this work done- im all ears! :-)

Dave

Long over due a DPF tbh, the recommended replacement is 75k!

With DPF removal, can do 2 things with the additive tank.

1. Completely write it out of the management systems

2. Fill the tank with diesel - it'll sense the additive tank is full and just inject diesel when you fill up.

Differing opinions on this, I can't see any problem with sticking diesel in there and leaving the system connected. Other people reckon it's 'lazy' and would rather have more management alterations (which takes longer so costs a bit more).

cheers Tomsfocus. ive looked through the service history and cant see any mention of a change in DPF so i assume its the same one as from manufacture. Hence if i go for a garage or DIY additive job, it might not even work if the DPF i have is fubarred anyway.. so in the long run it might be cheaper to go for the internal gutting.... hhmmm