Stu9 Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 03 1.8 tdci.......starts ok (so far) but if I don't hold the revs to about 3ish it'll cut out, tons of smoke (see title) then after about 5 mins clears and idles fine and if I'm out all the stop starting, it's fine. I got a leak test this afternoon and 4 injectors are fine with hardly leakage at all after about 2 mins so it's not them (as I thought it was) Guy that did leake test (a mate that's quite clued up) said maybe the cam sensor or filter, posible pump but doesn't think so. If sensor I'd have though it wouldn't work at all, not duff when cold then start/runs fine when warm, he also said maybe crap in filter.....he's also going to read the codes monday But he was a bit stumped as we both expected to find leaky injectors as the diesel "leaks" over night and hard to start the next morn, as I've had before....but nope! So apart from a cam sensor and filter I'm stumped or is there something else we can't think it No warning lights btw....well apart from the abs and skid but they're nothing to do with this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Check the glowplugs are ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu9 Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 We didn't check them as the lights goes out as normal when cold ie 1-2 secs and when warm goes out in the blink of an eye Forgot to say.....before he did the leak test, I'd already started it to move it, he did the test and connecting the pipes back it was hellish to to start again...I don't know if needed to but he suggested filling the filter with diesel (which I did) and even then was still turning and turning then after leaving for about 5 mins tried again and started instantly but VERY lumpy and tons of smoke then cleared and ran as if nothing happened Glow plugs wouldnt cause that as it had already been started to move and do leak test.....so what else would cause this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjt Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 The light won't give any indication of the state of the glowplugs. You need to disconnect the wiring and do a resistance check. I replaced the plugs in our 1.8TDCi, similar age to yours and done about 89,000 miles at the time. When I tested the plugs I took out three were open-circuit and the fourth was high-resistance. The glowplug light on ours goes out in under a second, summer or winter, but I found by connecting a lamp across the supply they actually stay on for about 5 seconds. I have read that in really cold conditions they may stay on for a while longer after the engine is started to help warm-up but I haven't tested this. It does sound as if yours might be getting air in the system when it stands overnight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu9 Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 It does sound as if yours might be getting air in the system when it stands overnight. Maybe that's what happened after the leak test as it didn't start If it is air getting in especially from over night, where from as its never did it before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjt Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 From your original post you implied it did and that was why you got the leak-off test done . . . . . 03 1.8 tdci.......starts ok (so far) but if I don't hold the revs to about 3ish it'll cut out, tons of smoke (see title) then after about 5 mins clears and idles fine and if I'm out all the stop starting, it's fine. I got a leak test this afternoon and 4 injectors are fine with hardly leakage at all after about 2 mins so it's not them (as I thought it was) I don't know where the leak-off pipes return fuel to the system or where the lift pump is located. As usual the Haynes manual omits this useful information. Maybe one of the more knowledgeable members can help with this. I was under the impression it was returned directly to the tank but if it is returned upstream of the lift pump then it's possible that air could get in via a leak in the return pipework and if this was not securely plugged during the test that could explain why you needed to top-up the filter. Without knowledge of the plumbing, though, that's just guesswork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu9 Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 It started fine to do the leak off, it was after it it took a good 10 mins then very lumpy and smokey for a good 10 mins again I don't know if it's coincidence or not but I always face uphill and never had any problem, last night I faced downward Just started fine....I don't know what's going on I'll get a new filter in the next day or two but I'll maybe take to the guy I use and leave it, he can look over it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu9 Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Whoever said check glow plugs I can rule that out as it started fine earlier I'll hope the codes read tomorrow and take it from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu9 Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 Glows are fine after testing but 4 codes came up P2291....injector pressure low when starting C1095....hydraulic pump has open short to ground battery (whatever the hell that means) B1318.....battery voltage low.....duff in other words as it starts to go flat after just a couple of attempted starts B1359.....ignition running access circuit failure Nothing came up for the cam sensor or injectors but he said to get a new fuel filter so I'll get either Bosch or Delphi as they seem good. I can get a Delphi for £16 on the bay inc post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Get the filter replaced first and primed , then if still the same and can replicate the fault reliably , get can of fuel and plumb straight in to back of hpfp, bypassing all fuel supply lines from tank to pump, bleed fuel through, then crank over to run and see if smoke and running poor gone. Low pressure on cranking is either air in fuel or pump metering valve on pump, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendee Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Wouldn't the low battery voltage (duff battery as you put it) result in the injector pressure low when starting? Also isn't going to help glow plugs if battery voltage is low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu9 Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 It turns fine to start with its only if it doesn't kick the first time and need to keep trying, then after a few turns it starts to die quite quick, one it's started and warmed its fine....not saying it's not still duff though it could be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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