EDIT: Forgot to mention it's a MK1 1.6 Petrol.

I took it to a garage who have given me the fault codes and what they mean but said they dont know how to fix them which is odd!

It starts and idles fairly rough then after a few minutes the engine will cut out, pressing the accelerator has no effect most times (no increase in revs). It started off showing these symptoms when first starting the car and trying to pull away after which it would be fine but it has got progressively worse.

Based on suggestions I have put new filters in, replaced spark plugs which to be fair had seen better days and I have just changed the speedo speed sensor. Attached is the notes the garage gave me with the fault codes - can anyone shed light on what needs doing to fix it?

From the codes it looks like it needs the fuel pump replaced, or wiring to the fuel pump repaired. But the garage would've known that so must be something deeper.

Most of the others could just be minor 'blips' and not need any fixing, the garage should've cleared the faults and then scanned again to see which come back.

I wouldn't put much trust in that garage to be honest!

Door lock and door ajar warning aren't major - I guess one of your doors doesn't lock with central locking?

PSP is power steering pressure switch, not going to affect to engine and I assume this is a minor blip.

PNP is the park/neutral switch for an auto or may mean clutch switch for manual I think. Is yours an auto?

Battery voltage low - well the garage should've tested the battery, I guess its just low because it keeps cutting out before the battery has a chance to charge.

So that only leaves the fuel pump open circuit to cause a problem.

Thanks alot for your reply!

"Door lock and door ajar warning aren't major - I guess one of your doors doesn't lock with central locking?" Correct.

"PNP is the park/neutral switch for an auto or may mean clutch switch for manual I think. Is yours an auto?" It's manual

Funnily enough the same garage replaced the fuel pump just over a year ago....

Ok, I think the wiring needs testing to the fuel pump then, including the relay and the relay socket and fuse holder. Any of those could be loose or corroded and causing a bad contact. Or one of the wires may be damaged. I doubt the pump would've broken so quickly.

If your wiring skills are ok, you could run a temporary 12volt live wire direct from the battery to the pump which should make the pump run all the time, if the engine still cuts out then the pump is broken, if not you know it's something to do with the wiring. Only do that if you know what you're doing though lol!

If you want to fix the door (I know it's not a priority lol), it either needs the locking module replaced or the wiring between the car and the door may be broken.

Thanks so much for all your info - will look into what you said, don't fancy doing the live wire but hopefully now someone seems to know what the codes mean I can get the problem solved.

Haha you're right, the door isn't a massive issue but again, appreciate the help - with all the B codes someone actually recommended just replacing the battery and see what happens though I think it was more of a guess.

You're welcome.

The B codes may not have all come back if they scanned for faults again. I get them all the time for door modules on mine with no 'real' faults. Though you do obviously have one real fault with the central locking there. The battery may be ok if you can keep the engine running for long enough to charge it so I'd try that before changing it. Get fuel pump problem sorted and go from there. :)