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Two Problems: Left Wing Mirror, Hard Wiring Dashcam. Please Help!

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Hi all! I am back again with more trouble.

I attempted to do two tasks today.

1. Replace indicator repeater bulb in the left (passenger) wing mirror

2. Hard wire a dashcam using a piggyback fuse into fuse slot 100

I failed both tasks :(

First, for the mirror. I read that one needs to tilt down the mirror to get into the inside of the housing. So I flicked my mirror adjustment switch the left and hit the down button. No movement. Tried again with the right mirror, working fine. So now I wonder if the problem isn't the bulb, but the entire power to the wing assembly. From the manual it seems both mirrors use the same fuse, so if the right one works fine then the problem has to be elsewhere... any guidance or starting points for diagnostics would be much appreciated.

...

Now, for the dashcam. I got info from various sources over the web, including Lenny's DVR fitting guide. I've got an E-PRANCE Mini 0801 which came with a fairly long 12v socket -> USB cable, but not long enough to make it all the way to the rear 12v socket. So I decided to go the hard wire route and also benefit from having it turn on with the ignition using fuse 100.

So first off I got a piggyback fuse, whipped out fuse 100 from the box, and put the piggyback in there. Replaced the original fuse from slot 100 on the lower slot of the piggyback (closer to the two terminals) as I understand it does matter which slot is used. Then I stuck a 5A fuse in the empty slot (for the dashcam). As per Lenny's guide, I found the earth terminal behind the glovebox, and installed a wire there. I also attached a wire to the lead sticking out of the piggyback fuse.

Here's where it gets interesting. To power the camera, I used the existing 12v cable but I took apart the housing and got my hands onto the two terminals on the PCB. I wired the piggyback lead to the PCB on what would be the middle part of the 12v plug, and the earthed lead was wired to the PCB on what would be outer edge of teh 12v plug. However, the LED on the PCB did not turn on when I turned the ignition on (I tried all stages of the ignition, including starting the car entirely). I also plugged the camera in as well as some 12v plugs don't light up the LED until something is actually drawing current, but no luck there either.

I would really appreciate some help on this, as this is the first time I have attempted any electrical related car work.

Thanks for your time!



Your wiring sounds ok, you could try a different fuse? I think on some mk's of Focus it's 70 not 100 which is the 'electronic modules ignition supply'

  • Author

Your wiring sounds ok, you could try a different fuse? I think on some mk's of Focus it's 70 not 100 which is the 'electronic modules ignition supply'

Thanks for the reply, but my car hasn't got a fuse 70. The passenger footwell fuse box starts at 100, which according to the manual is indeed the 'electronic modules ignition supply'.

Correct fuse, have you checked you have continuity from the tap to the 12v adaptor?

it may be possible taht you have damaged the adaptor by dismantling it.

Have you checked if the fuse in the tap is fully inserted and that the wiring is making good contact to the tap crimp and earthing point?

Wouldn't it be easier to just buy for a few quid a 2 or 3 metre USB cable that's all I did using the 12v socket fitted into the glove box with a USB socket plugged In and piggy backed from the chap above

  • Author

Correct fuse, have you checked you have continuity from the tap to the 12v adaptor?

it may be possible taht you have damaged the adaptor by dismantling it.

Have you checked if the fuse in the tap is fully inserted and that the wiring is making good contact to the tap crimp and earthing point?

I'll double check this today and see how it goes!

Wouldn't it be easier to just buy for a few quid a 2 or 3 metre USB cable that's all I did using the 12v socket fitted into the glove box with a USB socket plugged In and piggy backed from the chap above

Well, that would just be more wiring! So I figured this way would be easier and more "stealth".

  • Author

Also, anybody have any clues about the mirror issue?

  • Author

I just noticed something else. Right now the piggyback fuse is still in the box, with the original fuse plus the two wires dangling for the dashcam (I have insulated these, so short circuiting), and now every time I start the car, the air recirculation button is lit up. Even if I turn it off (which turns off the light, but doesn't seem to make a difference to the actual air), it's lit up again when I start the car next time. Any clues?

I just noticed something else. Right now the piggyback fuse is still in the box, with the original fuse plus the two wires dangling for the dashcam (I have insulated these, so short circuiting), and now every time I start the car, the air recirculation button is lit up. Even if I turn it off (which turns off the light, but doesn't seem to make a difference to the actual air), it's lit up again when I start the car next time. Any clues?

if your talking about aircon,then you have to turn the knob to the first position to the left of the window demister.then wont come on all the time.thats if you have the blower on.i think thats what you mean

  • Author

if your talking about aircon,then you have to turn the knob to the first position to the left of the window demister.then wont come on all the time.thats if you have the blower on.i think thats what you mean

No it's not the aircon/demister, I am aware that happens. It's the internal recirculation button on the left which comes on regardless of what position the vent knob is at.

No it's not the aircon/demister, I am aware that happens. It's the internal recirculation button on the left which comes on regardless of what position the vent knob is at.

ah right with you.sorry not sure about that

  • Author

Hey guys! Just a quick update... a rookie mistake on my part. I think while wiring things up I accidentally blew the secondary fuse (dashcam fuse) on the piggyback, which would explain why nothing was working. Swapped the fuse, and everything is working as expected now! This has also fixed the issue with the air recirculation switch turning itself on every time I started the car.

Unfortunately didn't have enough time to check the mirror as it got dark by the time I finished setting up the dashcam (damn short days already!) but if anyone has any ideas that I can check for tomorrow, it would be much appreciated. (To recap: left wing mirror seems to have no power for tilting or indicator bulb, right mirror working fine).

Thanks!

Hey guys! Just a quick update... a rookie mistake on my part. I think while wiring things up I accidentally blew the secondary fuse (dashcam fuse) on the piggyback, which would explain why nothing was working. Swapped the fuse, and everything is working as expected now! This has also fixed the issue with the air recirculation switch turning itself on every time I started the car.

Unfortunately didn't have enough time to check the mirror as it got dark by the time I finished setting up the dashcam (damn short days already!) but if anyone has any ideas that I can check for tomorrow, it would be much appreciated. (To recap: left wing mirror seems to have no power for tilting or indicator bulb, right mirror working fine).

Thanks!

i said it was that :whistling:

If you take off the door card for the door with the faulty mirror you could check to see if the mirror connector has come away, or if the earth cable is broken somewhere.

Remove the bottom piece of the door handle (use a flatblade or trim tools to pull it away).

Then undo the two torques screws behind the handle.

Then, starting from the bottom left of the door card, pull it away from the door. Work your way around pulling the clips free. Once they are all free you'll need to pull the door handle trim off and disconnect the power window wiring.

The door card should now be free and you can pull it away completely.

Now remove the tweeter (Small speaker near the mirror) by pulling the casing from the bottom. You'll then be able to see the cable that goes into your mirror and could test the earth continuity and make sure that the plug hasn't come away. You could even try taking the mirror off and trying the other one using its cable? Will then know if its the mirror of wiring.

Give yourself an hour to get the door card off and back on as it could be fiddly first time.

  • Author

If you take off the door card for the door with the faulty mirror you could check to see if the mirror connector has come away, or if the earth cable is broken somewhere.

Remove the bottom piece of the door handle (use a flatblade or trim tools to pull it away).

Then undo the two torques screws behind the handle.

Then, starting from the bottom left of the door card, pull it away from the door. Work your way around pulling the clips free. Once they are all free you'll need to pull the door handle trim off and disconnect the power window wiring.

The door card should now be free and you can pull it away completely.

Now remove the tweeter (Small speaker near the mirror) by pulling the casing from the bottom. You'll then be able to see the cable that goes into your mirror and could test the earth continuity and make sure that the plug hasn't come away. You could even try taking the mirror off and trying the other one using its cable? Will then know if its the mirror of wiring.

Give yourself an hour to get the door card off and back on as it could be fiddly first time.

Thanks for your reply! Fortunately, door card removal has become second nature to me during my soundproofing/speaker upgrade project a few months ago, so I should have the door card/tweeter panel off in a hot minute :)

Just one question though, how does one "test earth continuity"??? I finally bought a multimeter today, I know how to use one in the most basic sense... testing voltage output.

Haha fair enough, well to anyone else with the same problem there you go!

In the manual for your multimeter it should show you how to go to the continuity check. Basically you want to put it in the setting and then press one of the probes against the earth cable going to your mirror, and the other one on a guaranteed earth source that you know is working. If you get a number on the screen then you have earth if not then there is your problem. Should be easy to get earth from the window motor instead.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

So, I finally decided to stop being lazy and check out the mirror. Turns out the problem was much simpler than I thought. The entire socket behind the tweeter had somehow become disconnected. Pretty bizarre, wonder how the hell that happened? Put it back into place, and the mirror is working again!

Thanks for all your helpful replies.

What did I tell you! ;) haha no problem

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