Evening all,

As title, how easy is it to remove the ECU on these? I know its up underneath somewhere but have read about cutting security bolts etc, hoping that's only for the decent engine ones though!?

Cheers

Tom

pcm is behind the passengers side fender splash guard( arch liner)

from what i recall theres 4 screws holding a cover on, then theres the security bolt, i have removed the bolt in the past by cuting a slot in head of bolt and use a large flat head screwsdriver to undo.

What's the 'security' part of the bolt? I have some random sockets and screwdrivers (triangle shaped etc) if it's anything like that?

I don't have a dremel to cut a slot unfortunately, or is it possible to us a junior hacksaw instead?

hacksaw should be ok, the security bolt used is a 10mm headed shear bolt, the head shears off at a particular toque leaving a domed head , depending on how tight it is , the method i mentioned works, otherwise its try losening bolt head with pin punch and hammer , correct way is to drill nut end of security bracket , then replacing bracket and bolt

Ah I see! That's a bit of a pain then, can't imagine anyone's going round nicking diesel ECU's either!

Cheers Ian. :)

Flashing via OBD is fine, I did some research on it after our last chat and the only issues are around cloned devices, if you think about it that kinda makes sense, ford VCM II can do anything via the OBD.

Aren't all the MPPS/Galletto leads clones though? I'm pretty sure a lead from China for a tenner isn't genuine? I haven't had any issues at all flashing maps to EDC15 with either lead but I'm a bit wary of the EDC16 after what I was told.

I've checked ELMC' and we can't back up the immob stuff through there. Just wondering what the procedure would be in the (possibly unlikely) event that it did lose those settings? How are they recoverable or resettable? I don't mind risking it if there's an 'easyish' way to sort it, but not if it would lose immob settings forever lol.

nope, not the originals anyway, I'm sure they are all made in china but its all a matter of QC, my Fgtech clone had several incorrect components, swapped them out and its working fine, well in terms of dumping and flashing via ODB albeit very slow!.

The principle is fairly straight forward, if the device can use the CANBUS system fully, then it can do whatever VCM can do, if it doesn't support them all then functions will be limited.

Clones however may or may not support the fully instruction set used by legitimate devices, and even if they do have a processor that supports the full set, it might be handicapped by poor quality components or even incorrect components.

Ive been told to stay clear of MPPS with the EDC16, I picked one up for a few quid and it read fine but I couldn't bring myself to flash with it. That's when I researched the FGtech devices and found out some PCB diagrams with the correct components, popped down to RS components for some resistors, caps and a handful of relays.

The only truly safe way to do it is via a fully compliant device that uses CANBUS or to use BCM, and if there is any doubt to the device then its probably seriously worth getting it dumped by BCM which is probably what your mate was meaning, then if it all goes wrong it will write directly to the ROM bit for bit whether the ECU is functional or not.

Fact is tho, mine was flashed by a company via OBD, and it was done is just a few seconds, I didn't get to see what the device was but it was a fancy looking bit of kit, obviously not VCM or any shoddy Chinese Clone and this is the accepted way of doing it, if the device is legit

To me, if a garage is insisting on using BDM because its safer, it "suggests" that they are using cloned gear

Genuine tools aren't cheap though so we'll assume my £10 leads aren't lol. Both MPPS and Galletto read the Focus ECU fine, just dont fancy attempting a write with them!

The mapper does use a genuine MPPS for EDC15 (and even recomends it for them) but will only use BDM100 for EDC16.

I seem to be getting and finding conflicting opinions on this so stil none the wiser!

Basically it looks like risking my cloned leads is going to end badly. So looks like my best option is to let the mapper do it via BDM, whichrequires removal of the ECU obviously.

We'll have to agree to disagree on whether OBD flashing EDC16 is 100% reliable or not.

Anyway, I removed it today... Was not expecting this, 4 security bolts!? <_<

Ended up buying a dremel to cut slots in the heads, cutting discs were too big so damaged the plastic as well. When I opened the case the ECU wasnt bolted in but just appeared to be 'sitting' on plastic lumps...turns out they're one way only so I broke them removing the ECU. It's gone well today...

why on earth do they make it so hard to get in to! Its not like anyone is going to get it out and start the car, id be more concerned that they would nick the rear fog / reverse lamps or break the shoddy bonnet lock an steal the headlamps.

Although to be fair my POS Vauxhall I used to have seemed to have a funnel directing any an all water in to the unprotected ECU which systematically wiped out the ECU and all 4 injectors so I guess I cant be too critical of ford for doing an overly good job with this one lol

I honestly don't know, previous cars I've had the ECU just sat on top with either 3 normal bolts or none at all lol!

I cant believe anyone could be bothered to jack up the car, remove the wheel (inc the locking wheel nut!), remove both undertrays and finally the arch liner just to get to it...thats hardly a 'passing' criminal!

As you say there are better things to nick anyway, daren't think how much the HID headlamps or powerfold mirrors are worth.