Hello people, this is my first post on here as a new member so bear with me.

Right, so I have a 2005 2.0 tdci focus with 120k miles, which went into limp mode on me a couple weeks ago.

Basically it will not go above 3000rpm and it'll take ages to get there, engine light stays on, never switches off.

Took it to a friends garage who's done work on all the cars I've owned, he told me that he thought it was a problem with the actuator and that I would most probably need a new turbo fitted. He told me that he couldn't be 100% sure and the best thing for me to do is to take it to a ford garage so they can check what's wrong with it, and he'd fix it for me.

So I did that, was quoted £110 an hour, which then went down to £55 a hour, they needed 3 hours. Anyway they checked it out, and told me that there were multiple fault codes coming up and they couldn't be sure what the problem was, but that they could see that the actuator wasn't getting any power from the wiring loom, so it could either be the wiring loom or the turbo itself, which they could happily replace for me. Wiring loom £900, turbo £1200, no thank you.

So after paying for the 3 hrs, took it back to mates garage explained what ford said, and he has now taken the car to a friend of his who's some sort of car electronics specialist to have a look at the wiring loom. It's been there for a couple days, and the guy says he still can't see what the issue is.

These are the fault codes that ford said were coming up.

P0047 - turbo charger boost control solenoid circuit low

P2263 - turbo charger boost system performance

P0406 - egr sensor A circuit high

P0380 - glowplug control circuit

P0183 - fuel temperature sensor A circuit high input

P0118 - etc sensor circuit high input

P0113 - iat sensor circuit high input

P0101 - open ground between sensor and pcm, incorrect or low voltage from vpwr, faulty maf sensor, damaged or contaminated connector, intake system leaks, broken or leak in inlet duct from maf sensor, loose clamps on inlet duct

Faulty or damaged pcm.

The car ran absolutely fine before it went into limp mode. Regular services, in fact it had just been serviced two weeks before the engine light coming on.

My question is, what could be causing all these fault codes to come up, and where is the best place to start investigating before paying for the most expensive parts.

Thank you

Best way to check is from the pcm out. You would need to check connectors are not loose or water damaged. Check fuses from fuse box. The move to following each wire. Then having a multimeter checking for a 5 volt refrence at each engine input sensor. Output and correction sensors. You may not need to do this if the electronic has already seen it. As he would rule out wiring, or ground or pcm issues.

Might just be a simple clear the codes but write them all down, disconnect battery for a bit about 30 mins and reconnect. And drive, the pcm should do a self test if it goes back into limp the codes that do come up again are the ones to worry about.