Basically OEM battery is shagged. Low voltage warning from FORScan and goes flat without much excessive use. 

Need a replacement but wondering what to go for as I'd prefer to spend a little extra and get something that will last?

hi bosch is a good name in battery take a look on Halfords site, to get the price and size you need, then search ebay for the same battery for nearly half the price of Halfords, fitting should be a 20min job ;-)

1 hour ago, steveyeu said:

Need a replacement but wondering what to go

I think the Bosch S4004 is about as good as any. For about £60, if you hunt for it.

For some reason the S5004 (5year warranty) is not shown as fitting your car.

(Double check the fitting details though!)

But before you do, have you checked the alternator is putting out the 14.4v to 14.8v needed for full charging? Ideally measured at the battery terminals. Wiring voltage drops can give erroneous readings, including the system voltage read by Forscan. (Though this should give some indication, within 0.5v or so.) No point in fitting a new battery only to flatten it straight away.

Peter.

 

10 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I think the Bosch S4004 is about as good as any. For about £60, if you hunt for it.

For some reason the S5004 (5year warranty) is not shown as fitting your car.

(Double check the fitting details though!)

But before you do, have you checked the alternator is putting out the 14.4v to 14.8v needed for full charging? Ideally measured at the battery terminals. Wiring voltage drops can give erroneous readings, including the system voltage read by Forscan. (Though this should give some indication, within 0.5v or so.) No point in fitting a new battery only to flatten it straight away.

Peter.

 

So for example parts wise: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/075-Bosch-Silver-Calcium-Car-Van-Battery-S4004-Next-Day-Delivery-4-Yr-Wty-/272118108334?hash=item3f5b80d0ae:g:juUAAOSwa-dWqgei

How would I go about testing the alternator or would it be best to get someone in to check it for me?]

Edit: If I set a multimetere to 20V (the symbol of the solid line with 3 dots under it) and probe the terminal of the alternator would this do the trick? Would something like this do the job: http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/rolson-digital-multimeter

2 minutes ago, steveyeu said:

How would I go about testing the alternator

If you have, or can buy or borrow a multimeter (they are only about £10 for a basic one), then:

Put it on voltage range (20v or Auto-range), push the probes hard against the visible parts of the battery terminals, until a stable reading is obtained. If possible contact the battery itself, rather than the part attached to the cable, in case there is a bad connection there.

Repeat this measurement with the engine idling, with someone holding the throttle for about 1500 - 2000 rpm, then the same with the headlights & heater blower fan on full.

It may take a while to get up to full voltage after starting, but it should hold steady at 14.4 to 14.8v at some stage. It may drop to about 13.5v when idling with heavy electrical load, but should soon get back to the >14v when above 1500rpm.

If the voltage is rather unsteady, or does not get above 14.2v at all, then I would get it tested by an expert. But hopefully it will be ok.

Safety note: Be careful about any metal jewellery, watches, tools or other items when working near the battery. Short circuits are hazardous. It is quite safe to touch the terminals though.

 

8 hours ago, steveyeu said:

Edit: If I set a multimetere to 20V (the symbol of the solid line with 3 dots under it) and probe the terminal of the alternator would this do the trick? Would something like this do the job: http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/rolson-digital-multimeter

The Halfords multimeter looks like it will do the job ok. Not the best I have seen, but ordering by post would take longer.

The range is right, 20v. I would measure at the battery first. It is usually easier to get to, and it also tests the wires & connections from alternator to battery. Only if it is a bit low, would I then try to probe the alternator terminal, using the engine metalwork as the negative.

Peter.

 

As a possible alternative multimeter consider this from Maplins:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/uni-trend-ut132a-digital-multimeter-with-square-wave-generator-n99jz

what I particularly like about this is that it has a 'rubber bumper' surround which makes it a bit more rugged for 'throwing In the boot'.
 

On 07/09/2016 at 11:20 AM, Tdci-Peter said:

If you have, or can buy or borrow a multimeter (they are only about £10 for a basic one), then:

Put it on voltage range (20v or Auto-range), push the probes hard against the visible parts of the battery terminals, until a stable reading is obtained. If possible contact the battery itself, rather than the part attached to the cable, in case there is a bad connection there.

Repeat this measurement with the engine idling, with someone holding the throttle for about 1500 - 2000 rpm, then the same with the headlights & heater blower fan on full.

It may take a while to get up to full voltage after starting, but it should hold steady at 14.4 to 14.8v at some stage. It may drop to about 13.5v when idling with heavy electrical load, but should soon get back to the >14v when above 1500rpm.

If the voltage is rather unsteady, or does not get above 14.2v at all, then I would get it tested by an expert. But hopefully it will be ok.

Safety note: Be careful about any metal jewellery, watches, tools or other items when working near the battery. Short circuits are hazardous. It is quite safe to touch the terminals though.

 

Engine off: 12.65v Idle: 13.18v

Will test at 1500-2000 rpm/lights & fan when the other half is home, I'm sure she will be delighted to assist :P