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Going to view a wee streetka with 50000 on the clock 05 plate I think, what should I be looking for? 

Are the reliable enough cars? Had a few fiestas and always liked them, need a run around n this would be one I could take a bit of pride with too so win win. 

 

Should mention I've never owned a car over 5 years old so just general things to look for too 

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Great fun cars to drive and cheap to buy but lots of niggles as I have found in the few months of getting my wife one.  Saying that they are still great and it may be worth getting a garage to check it over too before you go ahead if you really like it.

Few thing's to look for:

- Damage to rear pvc window.  If cracked they are about £70 supplied to fit yourself or about £120 fitted.

- check under the seats and around footwells etc for any signs of leaks or damp carpet's.   Lots of causes.  Ours doesnt have this problem but I know others do from leaking roofs and heater issues etc.

- check the aircon.  The condensers are prone to failing.  All 3 I looked at had this problem.

- check the heater works I.e hot and cold air.  A common issue is the HCV (heater control valve) gets stuck one way or the other.

- check the coolant level and if possible any signs of leaks on the thermostat housing located under the air filter box as these are prone to leak with age as a Plastic part.  Easy did job though but about £120 for the ford part or £30 aftermarket.  Just done this to ours.

-  check the oil filler cap and for any sign of head gasket problem.

- check the sills and underneath for rot and rust issues and recommend getting it undersealed.  Generally rust is what kills off the kas and streetkas.

- clunking from the suspension.  Check incase any springs are broken.  Again one I looked at had this issue.

- wandering around the road when driving.  Possible wishbone or bushing issues.

They are great little cars and I love ours.  Great fun to drive and like a rollerskate.

The bonus is parts are plentiful and pretty cheap so nothing costs the earth on them.

Best advice if set on one is to try a few.

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Brilliant advice and I can say that with my untrained eye the car looks decent. 

Engine ran fine sounded fine flung it into a corner etc no noises from suspension. 

Breaks were either rusted up or due a replacement next MOT. 

Heaters worked  never checked aircon though not fussed If that works or not..

 

Bad bits:

2 pin holes in roof. Can get this repaired I assume..

(Back window looks fine) 

Rust. Drivers side is spot on. 

Passenger side has had advisories on MOT" Nearside Front Subframe mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3) "

last MOT but not there this current MOT

 

At the curve where the door shuts and along the sill  can see there is rust there there's bubbles in the paint etc so i can't imagine it's been repaired? 

Under passenger door is heavy rust can only see on underside with door open 

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This years MOTS 

advisorys

Nearside Rear Sub-frame rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
Offside Rear Sub-frame has slight play in a pin/bush (2.4.G.2)
that's after a re-sit
 
initial test :
 
  • Reason(s) for failure
    Nearside Front Subframe mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3)
    Nearside Front suspension has excessive play in a lower suspension ball joint (2.5.B.1a)
    Service brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.B.7)
    Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.B.7)
  • Advisory notice item(s)
    Nearside Rear Sub-frame rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
    Offside Rear Sub-frame has slight play in a pin/bush (2.4.G.2)
    Nearside Front suspension has slight movement at a wishbone pin or bush (2.5.A.1c)
     
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how much is it up for?

there are so many out there, don't settle 

the fact it has slightly lower than normal mileage shouldn't be the driver for buying

 

other common things are oil leaks and clutch slipping

 

JJ

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Yes that sounds like it's possibly on the brink of many corrosion issues.  As JJ said though plenty of other around so I would look around first before jumping in.  At least you have driven one and know what to expect.  Good luck keep up posted 

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Streetkas are not like normal Kas. Although they have areas that can corrode the floorpan and sills are bombproof. This is from the Ford workshop manual :

 

General design features
As, for functional reasons, a cabriolet body has a roof construction that is not integrated into the body structure, the floor pan and the A-pillars must be provided with additional reinforcements.
The A-pillars or the front roof frame have been reinforced primarily for reasons of passenger protection (vehicle rollover). Two rollover bars are firmly mounted to the bodywork behind the seats as a further passive safety feature.
The body has been reinforced in particular in the rocker panel area. The rocker panels in conjunction with the adjacent body assemblies form a reinforced box-type structure, preventing body weakness in the event of high stresses. These so-called composite connections provide a solid body pan structure.
General body reinforcement areas
Underbody
Steel panels
No high strength steel panels are used on the Streetka.
The high rigidity of the body is achieved by means of individual panel thicknesses of up to 2.5 mm and by special shaping of the statically important body panels and body components.
In the rocker panel area, this results in a total composite material thickness of up to 6 mm.
Panel layers and shaping in the rocker panel area
Corrosion prevention measures

Body components at risk of corrosion are zinc plated on both sides.
PVC coating
A permanently elastic PVC coating is applied to areas of the floor pan at risk of corrosion, protecting these in particular against mechanical influences such as stone chipping
Wax injection
All the profiles of the floor pan as well as the cavities of pillars, rocker panels and frame side members are sealed with cavity wax
Seam sealing and bonding
Joint areas of doors, hood and rear lid are adhesively bonded and sealed by means of clinched flange sealing.
Penetration of moisture is prevented thereby, significantly improving corrosion protection.

 

A critical corrosion area is the front subframe mounts just behind the wheel hubs. I caught the problem early and treated the rust before it got any worse.

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