Hello new to forum with a problem on my focus c-max1.6tdci 2005 year

Ok so I bought the car off of the dreaded eBay a couple of weeks ago, apparently the car had just had a new turbo. I hadn’t used the car much since buying it but last night went for a drive. And all hell broke loose all of a sudden the lorry I had just passed disappeared in a cloud of black smoke and the engine decided to grow horns and the revs shot up, so without thinking I put my foot on the clutch and the engine went ballistic for a second so I switched the ignition off but the engine carried on at that point I put it into gear and and manoeuvred to the hard shoulder and luckily stalled the car.

oh there was a warning came up on the dash but sorry I didn’t have time to read it I think it was reduced power and when I turned the ignition back on it had gone.

any way the recovery firm said it was more than likely the egr valve, so today I took the egr valve off but was surprised that it was full of oil/diesel mix? 

I have plugged the car into a diagnostic equipment (Delphi) and it has no fault codes apart from a faulty boot switch but I don’t think that’s the problem lol. 

I have removed the pipe work into the turbo and the intercooler and all seems clean and dry, so after a bit of reading I took the intercooler off and tipped it on its side but nothing came out.

so the problem I now have is the car won’t start, egr is very wet ( I have dried it and cleaned it a little but possibly not going to put it back) what should I be looking for?

Considering the (pretty long) list of known problems of this type of engine you will most likely need a new engine.

A defective turbo on this type of engine is usually caused by a lack of lubrication caused by excessive engine wear. The excessive engine wear is the result of a number of known problems. Most problems can be avoided by using a reduced service interval. When changing the turbo the prescribed procedure must be followed. This procedure includes the removal/cleaning of strainers in the oil lines and the measurement of the amount of oil going to the turbo. If the amount of oil to the turbo does not meet the specifications the engine must be considered scrap.

Changing the turbo is usually done to be able to sell a car that otherwise will have less or no value. 

The way that the car was running away and revving I'd say it was burning the oil off from the engine.

Probably a turbo oil seal or suchlike allowing engine oil into the cylinders.

You're lucky, I've seen cars run away and keep running until the whole system starves of oil and self-destructs, not pretty or cheap.

Have a read of this-

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/diesel-tdi-engine-runaway-engine-causes-how-to-stop-and-repair-it/

 

Thank you for your response 

Sounds like a runaway as others have said - but with a clean intercooler and boost pipes it can't have been the turbo oil seal failed.  Have you checked the engine oil level since to make sure it was definitely oil burning?  

EGR is always full of oily sludge so that may not be related, having diesel in it is unusual though, that should be burnt before it hits the EGR valve.

I'm wondering if this may have been an injector fault dumping in a load of diesel instead.  

Otherwise where would the oil come from?  I doubt enough would come from valve seals or piston rings without noticing a massive lack of power.  Headgasket is possible but I can't remember seeing HGF on a DV6 so far.

 

 

 

with a dry intercooler id have thought that its a good sign it wasn't ingesting oil, at least not from the intake side.  The heavy black smoke is a sign of the fuel/air mix being to rich, ie, too much fuel (or not enough air)  but not enough air will throw up a DTC which suggests that Tom is right, too much fuel. 

I don't think there is sensor on the injectors, the only sensor close to it will be the Pressure sensor which might not trigger any warnings if an injector let loose. 

If the EGR was stuck fully open it might cause a problem with the air mix and make it run like crap but not a run away and it would throw up a DTC.your best blanking it off anyway so nows as good a time as any.

compression test the cylinders perhaps, that would rule out seals and the HG.  not sure how you can test an injector if its not starting, would cranking it create enough pressure to run a leak test on them?

 

 

 

I know it's easy for me to say after the event. Knowing what these engines are like and the turbo problems, if I saw one advertised which said i't just had a new turbo I would have steered away from it. Because I would be thinking, has it been done properly? why did the other one fail? has something been done to make sure the new one won't go the same way the old one did in next to no time. The turbos often don't just wear out themselves, the failure is often down to something else causing the turbo to fail, eg. oil supply problem to the turbo bearings.

 

Thank you all for your replies. 

Ok yes i should have avoided buying the car... but I needed a car quick and (yes I’m a silly boy) seeing the car looked like it had been well looked after and I didn’t have time to read anything about any possible problem with this particular car. 

But maybe I’m a little silly believing someone’s word on what they have done/ had done. Any way lesson learned the hard way.

i just sold a Alfa and I went over it as if it was going for a mot before listing it and was 100% honest about everything but that is just me.

Any way onto the car I now have, my wife said that she didn’t even notice anything was wrong with the car just that we accelerated and I put the hazard lights on and started pulling over to the hard shoulder. So the incident (so to speak) didn’t last very long and the first thing I did was start to put my foot on the clutch but instantly noticed the revs were going to go silly. So decided as I was in 5 gear was just stall it. I don’t think it over revved so possibly lucky that that hasn’t hurt the engine.

the oil level hasn’t gone down and only slightly discoloured. Also I took the oil feed pipe off to check these naughty banjo bolts had no mesh in them, I haven’t taken the sump off yet to check the oil pickup but I will. I spent a little while reading a article that someone nicely wrote about why the turbo fail on this engine, so far what I have read I am fairly confident this one doesn’t have a oil feed problem but I want to do a oil pressure test to confirm this. What about the DPF filter does this require cleaning? How?

the egr valve was full of what I would say was black diesel. So was this a injector fail 

ok how can I test a injector 

Personally I would start with performing a compression test, cilinder leak test and endoscopic inspection of the engine. If one of these show any abnormalities there is a big chance that the engine is scrap. In case of no abnormalities you should diagnose the problem and try to get the engine running. If the engine is running the amount of oil going to the turbo should be checked (at idle speed). If the amount of oil going to the turbo does not meet the prescribed minimum amount the engine will also be scrap.
 

On a 2005 Focus/C-max 1.6 TDCI only the 109 HP version has a DPF. This is an older type of DPF that uses a fuel–bourne catalyst additive (Eolys) to lower the minimum ignition temperature value of the soot particles. During regeneration the DPF reaches a temperature that is higher than the minimum ignition temperature value of the soot. During regeneration the soot particles inside the DPF are burned and during this proces converted into ash. The ashes that are produced during regeneration collect inside the DPF. During time the DPF becomes saturated with ash which affects the operation and efficiency of the DPF. 

Ford has a fixed changing interval of 120.000 KM / 75.000 Miles for this type of DPF on a Focus MK2/MK2.5/C-max MK1/MK1.5  1.6 TDCI.  

That was a 1.6TDCi run away you experienced. Had one myself! Scary as hell.

Hi all again sorry for lack of posting on any update (the joys of recovering from a bleed on the brain). Ok I have done a check on all injectors apart from being very yucky and could probably do with a very good clean, the resistance on all are the same. Looking at the seals at the top of the head and the fact that one of the plastic spacer washer was missing I am fairly confident the whole problem was badly fitted.

I have removed all injectors but I can’t get the naughty little copper washers out to the point I’m not actually convinced they are in there. I have put a little camera down the hole, sorry not got any pictures. And I’m a little confused as I would expect to see a copper colour but it is very silver. I have cleaned up as much as I can (great fun as not much room) even put a few drops of petrol around the edge to see if this would help clean any remaining carbon between washer and block. I have tried numerous different ways and tools including my nice new slide hammer washer remover. Any tips?

The reason I am starting to think They are not even in is this car has had one of those mechanics working on it at some time in its life ie lots of different nuts bolts screws etc. For example I had to use 6 different sockets then a Allen key to just undo the injectors which is not bad considering it only has 8 fixings, oh and a cable tie instead of a jubilee clip! Why more things to put good 

any way I sent the turbo away and all is good with that they even cleaned it. Also I have got a new turbo oil feed pipe with a pressure gauge that I will fit when I rebuild that bit.

has anyone by any chance got a measurement from the top engine to the copper seal

 

Be aware that these fuel injectors are very delicate. After removal these fuel injectors needs to be submersed in an appropriate liquid (for examble injector testing fluid or clean diesel fuel). Unfortunately many people discovered this the hard way and had to buy 4 new fuel injectors.

The washers between the fuel injectors and the cilinder head can be made of copper or aluminium. Aluminium washers may explain the silver color.