Just a quick picture guide for removing the screenwash bottle to clean the filter.  Seems to be a common issue where they block up when different screenwashes are mixed.

Jack up and support the OSF corner, remove the wheel.

Remove the full wheel arch liner.  These are T30 TORX screws.  Starting at the back, there is one under the mudflap (if fitted), one top corner of mud flap, one either side of the suspension strut, 2 in the bumper, and 3 under the front corner through the undertrays.

Then just bend the liner inwards and pull it out.

The washer bottle is top left.  Mines in 2 pieces - not sure if that's extra size for headlight washers or if they're all the same.

Now...the washer pump is directly behind the bottle, between the bottle and the back of the wing - I can't understand why they didn't fit it on the front there!?  So, you do need to at least lower the bottle to access it.  There are 2 10mm bolts holding the small rear bottle in (one can be seen above).  It's a tight fit, but does just pull down after those bolts are removed.  If you don't wish to remove the rear bottle, you can just pull that pipe out, it's just held in by a 10 year old rubber grommet!   Make sure to place something underneath to catch the screenwash.  2 of the main bottle bolts are easy to access underneath...

The third bolt holds the filler neck and is under the plastic trim piece.  This trim piece is secured by plastic screw.  Basically unscrew it, then pop out the screw surround with a flat screwdriver. 

At this point I realised this piece of trim goes underneath the scuttle panel...another amazing piece of design there.   I wasn't going to the hassle of removing the scuttle so managed to bend the trim just enough to get a small 10mm socket on a UJ in.  Once the bolt is removed, the filler neck needs pushing away from the bottle, towards the engine, it has a long hard pipe on it that fits into the bottle so needs moving to get the bottle out.  You can't fully remove it with the trim still in place but can get it just out of the way.

Now the bottle should be almost free to drop.  If you look up behind the bottle you will see a white plastic clip, I think this is used during manufacture to hold the bottle in place while it's bolted in.  If you pull hard on the bottle it will come down suddenly...watch your fingers!  Second time I did it, I pushed the clip up and out of it's locator in the bodywork which allows the bottle to release a bit more smoothly.  Not sure it really needs refitting but I did anyway, I wouldn't worry if it breaks though.

If you just want access to the washer pump, the bottle can hang on the pipes and wires without an issue, the pump is at the back corner here.

Push it straight back and out of the grommet with the filter, apply steady even pressure, not a sharp shock as you'll snap something.  Here you can see how the pump and filter work together.

Pop the filter out with a flat screwdriver between it and the bottle...don't go jabbing a screwdriver into the filter itself lol.

Just run it under the tap to clean

Refit the filter and pump and refitting is a reverse of removal as Haynes would say!

I went a bit further though, and fully removed the bottle.  Pulled down further, the electrical item near the washer pump is the level sensor.  

The headlight washer pump is located around the inside of the bottle, and this has no filter on it.

I fully removed both bottles to try and clean but the shape of them makes that pretty much impossible.  This was the best I could do with a hose and wheel brush.  Filling it with some sort of cleaner before removal may help.  I also placed the washer pumps in a bucket of clean water before refitting them to the bottle to flush out the pumps and pipes.  Just make sure the water level is high enough for the pump to suck in but not high enough to get into the electrical plug.  Not sure why but the headlight washers wouldn't work properly while doing this wrong angle maybe.

And all refitted...

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you!

The additional second washer fluid reservoir is only present on vehicles with factory fitted HID lights / headlight washers. Vehicles with halogen headlights only have the main washer fluid reservoir.

On 11/18/2017 at 5:12 PM, JW1982 said:

The additional second washer fluid reservoir is only present on vehicles with factory fitted HID lights / headlight washers. Vehicles with halogen headlights only have the main washer fluid reservoir.

Depends on country. My car has halogen lights and  headlight washers so I suspect it has the additional fluid reservoir.

Brilliant thank you. Just what I was looking for.

Saw water under there this morning and wandered where it was coming from. Filled up the washer bottle and left it and hour and the level had gone down.

So your post here helps with the next steps :D

Weird. I had to replace the pump on mine but it was forward of the wheel. Ti without headlight washers though...

7 minutes ago, Phil21185 said:

Weird. I had to replace the pump on mine but it was forward of the wheel. Ti without headlight washers though...

Mk3 is ahead of the wheel, mk2/2.5 is behind.  

Doh! Thought yours was a mk3...

2 hours ago, Phil21185 said:

Doh! Thought yours was a mk3...

It is now...this thread is from November lol!

 

Wow. Just take me out back and give me the old yeller treatment!

Didn't look at the post dates! I just tend to tap on 'next unread post' lol...

Finished job on the car replacing the headlamp washer pump on my ST today, this info a great help on how to do it.

A fair bit of pink coloured gunk in the tank which I cleaned out, this may have clogged the pump and could possibly clean out if soaked in bleach etc but with MOT looming I played it safe and put a new pump in.

Helped I took a couple of photos of where the pipes were routed before dropping the bottle out of the wing, if they're of use to anyone. Also on one of the washer hoses I taped it either side of the joint before splitting it so didn't get them mixed up putting everything back together.

New pump fitted and working fine now 🙂

Just to add a big thanks to the spares guys at Peoples in Speke, headlamp washer pump ordered Thursday afternoon and was able to collect it this morning 👍 

Off to the garage today, full bottle, pump running not a lot coming out, pipe or filter blockage gonna blast with some compressed air. I didnt know mixing screenwashes can cause gunge.

I’ve had sticky gunge build up in mine despite only using one brand of screen wash, not easy to clean out either 🙄

On 11/18/2017 at 10:58 AM, TomsFocus said:

Just a quick picture guide for removing the screenwash bottle to clean the filter.  Seems to be a common issue where they block up when different screenwashes are mixed.

Jack up and support the OSF corner, remove the wheel.

Remove the full wheel arch liner.  These are T30 TORX screws.  Starting at the back, there is one under the mudflap (if fitted), one top corner of mud flap, one either side of the suspension strut, 2 in the bumper, and 3 under the front corner through the undertrays.

Then just bend the liner inwards and pull it out.

The washer bottle is top left.  Mines in 2 pieces - not sure if that's extra size for headlight washers or if they're all the same.

Now...the washer pump is directly behind the bottle, between the bottle and the back of the wing - I can't understand why they didn't fit it on the front there!?  So, you do need to at least lower the bottle to access it.  There are 2 10mm bolts holding the small rear bottle in (one can be seen above).  It's a tight fit, but does just pull down after those bolts are removed.  If you don't wish to remove the rear bottle, you can just pull that pipe out, it's just held in by a 10 year old rubber grommet!   Make sure to place something underneath to catch the screenwash.  2 of the main bottle bolts are easy to access underneath...

The third bolt holds the filler neck and is under the plastic trim piece.  This trim piece is secured by plastic screw.  Basically unscrew it, then pop out the screw surround with a flat screwdriver. 

At this point I realised this piece of trim goes underneath the scuttle panel...another amazing piece of design there.   I wasn't going to the hassle of removing the scuttle so managed to bend the trim just enough to get a small 10mm socket on a UJ in.  Once the bolt is removed, the filler neck needs pushing away from the bottle, towards the engine, it has a long hard pipe on it that fits into the bottle so needs moving to get the bottle out.  You can't fully remove it with the trim still in place but can get it just out of the way.

Now the bottle should be almost free to drop.  If you look up behind the bottle you will see a white plastic clip, I think this is used during manufacture to hold the bottle in place while it's bolted in.  If you pull hard on the bottle it will come down suddenly...watch your fingers!  Second time I did it, I pushed the clip up and out of it's locator in the bodywork which allows the bottle to release a bit more smoothly.  Not sure it really needs refitting but I did anyway, I wouldn't worry if it breaks though.

If you just want access to the washer pump, the bottle can hang on the pipes and wires without an issue, the pump is at the back corner here.

Push it straight back and out of the grommet with the filter, apply steady even pressure, not a sharp shock as you'll snap something.  Here you can see how the pump and filter work together.

Pop the filter out with a flat screwdriver between it and the bottle...don't go jabbing a screwdriver into the filter itself lol.

Just run it under the tap to clean

Refit the filter and pump and refitting is a reverse of removal as Haynes would say!

I went a bit further though, and fully removed the bottle.  Pulled down further, the electrical item near the washer pump is the level sensor.  

The headlight washer pump is located around the inside of the bottle, and this has no filter on it.

I fully removed both bottles to try and clean but the shape of them makes that pretty much impossible.  This was the best I could do with a hose and wheel brush.  Filling it with some sort of cleaner before removal may help.  I also placed the washer pumps in a bucket of clean water before refitting them to the bottle to flush out the pumps and pipes.  Just make sure the water level is high enough for the pump to suck in but not high enough to get into the electrical plug.  Not sure why but the headlight washers wouldn't work properly while doing this wrong angle maybe.

And all refitted...

 

 

 

 

is that an st ? as it has smaller tank as well as big tank. does the lower tank have a washer pump on it ?

It was the pump impellor, seized, lines clear, motor spinning but doing nowt. Booked in for next week for an armful of niggly jobs and an MOT

1 hour ago, mrmetallica said:

is that an st ? as it has smaller tank as well as big tank. does the lower tank have a washer pump on it ?

It's a Titanium.  But had the X pack with Xenons & headlight washers, so same washer bottle setup as the ST.

The lower tank has both the screen wash pump and the headlight washer pump.  Square bottle is purely for extra capacity.

my cars an 09 never had a filter block on me