Hello fellow ford owners,

After some searching on google I came across the ford owners club and found you guys giving some great expert advice. I figured I would give it a shot too. I am currently the owner of a Ford Streetka 2003 1.6 model and I am having problems with starting the car.

I have brought it twice to the garage but seeing as everytime I bring it, it has to start for me to drive and then just doesn't break down till I have it back in possession, I am unable to get it diagnosed and fixed.

When trying to start it just mumbles a little and shuts back down. The engine doesn't or almost doesn't rev. If I hook up another car with jumper cables (done 3 times now) it sometimes while revving the donating car starts(2 out of 3 success rate). Sometimes messing around under the hood will also help start it. As done last night, mainly wiggling cables.

A video of it not starting on youtube:

Streetka starting problems

Some background info:

It had a heating problem, so the radiator has been replaced. It had old spark plugs so the spark plugs and cables have been replaced as well.

It would mean the world to me to be able to drive it again.

Kind regards,

Jason

don't know. if it was mine one thing I would do is see what the spark looks like whilst trying to start it. this means taking lead off one spark plug and connecting to a spare spark plug. then lay the spark plug somewhere where the metal outer of the spark plug connects with something metal on the engine (bare metal not painted metal). Not sure how easy that is on your car.

get someone to try starting it whilst you watch the spark . does it spark, is it a good strong spark. 

Years ago i had a mk5 Escort which had problems like this. it was known to affect many cars, not a one off. The fuse box had poor soldering inside where the wires were fixed to the fuse holders relays etc. This meant iffy supply of power to the  electronic ignition module and hence poor spark for starting (usually ran ok once started). The fix was to rewire power supply from igntion switch to the electronic ignition module bypassing the main fuse box (but using an inline fuse to be on safe side). This fixed those cars. 

As a test to see if that was the fault a wire could be run from positive battery terminal to the relevant wire on the electronic ignition module supply (insulation needed to be stripped from the wire to get a connection to it). Of course it is imperative you get the correct wire. I would imagine the unit could be fried if you get the wrong one. And this wire is only for testing, must not be left connected when you leave the car as it will drain battery as it is not via the ingition switch