update - 1 x rear calliper stuck on, freed off and handbrake returned to normal

Hi guys, Sorry I’m opening up the ford Kuga drama. My brothers ford Kuga 08 diesel manual gearbox car has spent more time broken down and in out of the garage more than it’s been driven. You’ll be shocked at this list of unnecessary repairs. Will try to list in repair order. First garage. Went in for fuel problem. First garage. Ended up having the clutch slave replaced. First garage. Starter motor replaced twice. Battery cable burnt. Second garage. Went to another garage who said the car wires are sabotaged but they were lazy too and repaired the battery loom by splicing. First garage. Had injectors replaced First garage. O rings problems leaks First garage. Cluster panel replaced Third garage. Went to another garage who said the ECU was the problem after they changed the fuel rail First garage. Went back to the first garage for cluster panel ECU repair Back to first garage for injector overflow pipes Back to first garage for a pipe behind the back of engine don’t know what it was. All the problems started after the first garage changed a clutch slave. The clutch was working normal until it was taken to that garage. I have said over and over again the garage caused a big health and safety issue. Wiring burnt car nearly set on fire but they lazy idiot continues to let them pretend to be mechanics. The second garage said the wiring is sabotaged when the gearbox, starter and battery was moved when the first garage changed the clutch slave cylinder. The long list of replacement parts is a knock on effect from electric lose wiring that caused the cluster to fry. If it was you guys would you have kicked off and not paid the ongoing replacement parts and repair bills ? Would you think the first garage caused these electrical issues and injector issues ? I’m just waiting and counting the days until it breaks down again. Glad I take my car elsewhere!

Whats the best wind deflectors for the mk8 fiesta? Heko? Ispeed? Climair? Edge?

Same here. But I rarely even use that nowadays, as road noise from rubbish "surface dressed" (aka tar and chip) surfaces largely makes audio inaudible.

Hi everyone, new member here. Before posting, I made sure to use the search function and read through the available resources, but couldn't find what I'm looking for. I'm trying to diagnose an issue on a Ford Fiesta (2012) and need a connector view with pin assignments — specifically the pin scheme for a connector I found referenced in my wiring diagram. I'm using that particular connector only as an example, since it appears in the diagram I already have. If anyone has connector views available — even from a newer generation — feel free to share. I'd like to compare it against my actual 2012 model to see if it could still be useful for diagnosis. Thanks in advance!

What is VW? Is that id4 chassis or something similar?

Hi everyone, I'm hoping to get some advice from the community as I’ve been battling some serious water ingress on my Mondeo Mk4. The Symptoms: I’ve been getting wet footwells in the car (all of them except the passenger rear) and a persistent puddle in the boot, collecting right under the spare wheel. What I’ve done so far: The Footwells: I removed all the door cards and did a hose test with the doors open. I found a gaping hole in the vapour membrane on the driver's door. I patched that up and resealed the membrane with fresh sealant. During my testing, this was the only door that appeared to be leaking. The footwells might be slightly drier now, but it's hard to tell for sure yet. The Boot: I have already applied sealant around the wiring loom grommets that go up to the tailgate to rule those out. The Current Issue: Despite the fixes above, I am definitely still getting a puddle in the spare wheel well. I managed to catch the leak in action—if you look at the attached videos and images, you can clearly see a trail of water running down the inner bodywork seam near the rear light cluster. Given the location of this specific water trail and what I've already sealed, what are the most likely entry points? Could this be the rear light cluster gaskets failing? Has anyone experienced cracked seam sealer higher up along the roofline/hinges? Could the air vents behind the rear bumper cause a trail this high up? Lastly, is it possible the water in the remaining wet footwells is migrating forward from this boot leak, or should I be hunting for a separate front-end leak? Could this single leak still be the culprit for making footwells wet? Any advice on how to confirm this specific boot leak or tips on what to tackle next would be massively appreciated!

Very fortunate today. Went to a different Kwik fit, turns out the tyre on the passenger side front was 565 that’s why the other shop wouldn’t replace it. The guy says retail customers would always be recommended to replace them with any more than a couple of mm imbalance. He spoke to Motability after I told him it had affected grip in the heavy rain we’ve had, so , new tyres all round should see me through to the end of the lease. You’d think the weight of the car over two ton I think , would go through tyres quickly, not the case , 22k for the rear and the front were at 5 or 6mm same miles. What Roger was saying about all wheel drives it seems it’s very important not to have any imbalance on them.

For general shoes Clarks shoes are the best quality that you can buy and good if you have wide feet as well, nearly all my shoes come from there. They are expensive but last for years.

Don't like wearing out yet another pair of shoes. Sure it's only been a couple of years since I bought these ones. I just buy cheap generic 'walking shoes' for sub £50. Wondering whether it's worth spending a bit more or whether they're all just poor quality nowadays anyway? So much choice online I don't really know where to start finding any better ones.