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Yeah rev counter drops, and sounds like it's going to cut out,but doesn't then rev counter goes back to normal

To what ? 750RPM ?

Guys

I replaced both of the H7 headlight bulbs on my Mk2 within a few weeks of each other in late 2022. As far as I know, the failed ones were the GE branded factory originals, as they were marked with Ford part numbers. As the car was built in October 2005, these would have been 17 years old. I replaced both with Lucas ones from my usual motor factors. These have both failed again in the last few weeks. They also cost £3.60 each back then. They are now charging £7.89 each. I told them I wouldn't be buying these. I replaced them with cheap Eurolec ones that I had, which probably won't last long. Are there any you can buy which will last as long as the originals? The ebay official Ford store lists genuine philips ones for £13 each. Has anyone here fitted these? Are they worth the price? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393525324938

Yes! Did my own car for 17 out of 24 years as a tester. Not a problem if youve got high morals . As I maintain my car's it's very rare I failed my own. Think the only occasion was when I had a broken spring that I didn't notice. Failed all the other family cars as did MOT first then serviced after . Current employer didnt allow us to do our own cars

Thanks for the replies. I managed to get a black plastic mesh pattern grille from the breakers for £10. There was a pre-facelift Mk1 at the breakers also. The earlier straight slat type grille seemed to be made from a less fragile plastic. If it was going on my car I would have fitted that type.

I have had numerous chats with people with ST Fiesta's and Focus's; some recommended that the Shell V Power is the best fuel. Can someone give me a recommendation, As I have been using a Mix of Unleaded and Super Unleaded?

Nope, just a head full of mush - Jeremy is a perfect candidate! LOL

I’ve seen that the cluster panels are a bit naff on these models. I also noticed the ground earth to the frame of the car was severely corroded so I’ve replaced that, reset the ecm so we’ll see what happens. Cheers pal 👍🏼

I can't visualise how the glass can be touching the lights. Have you got a picture?

Thanks Tom, hmmm what happened to the good old days when you were supplied with a spare bulb and fuse kit with your motor? Fords couldn’t/wouldn’t even tell me what type it was, just quoted me a long Ford part number. I found that ebay ad too but I thought I could buy one anywhere ha ha silly me.

I should point out that the Battery Maintenance System (BMS) was reset with the sequence and on a laptop in OBD. Legit scratching my head over this now. Car drives fine, not noticed any problems, the new battery much better holds charge etc, start stop works etc. Just the EML on, wipe it comes back.

Can buy those fuses on ebay if you can't find any locally. MCASE Micro Fuse 20amp 20 Amp 32V M CASE Durite 0-379-09 BLUE 2.9mm Terminals | eBay

Thanks guys, I found how to edit posts, gotta be quick it seems…

So much for insurance companies saying you can’t hardwire your dashcam….my plug in adaptor for my dashcam went faulty and shorted out ( too many extracts and insertions I guess). This took out both the 10amp fuse in the cigar lighter adaptor and the main 20amp fuse in the engine compartment. Easy easy I thought, until I pulled the fuse only to find it is unlike any I have ever seen before (Mcase micro apparently). Popped into my local Ford Stealer and was quoted £12 for single fuse!!!! Don’t keep any in stock as no one ever asks for them! so a long day trying Halfords, Eurocarparts, to be told never seen before! Why oh why did Fords change the most likely to blow fuse (cigar lighter/accessory socket to a type rarer than bats teeth?

Is your normal garage a Ford franchise? If it isn't their diagnostic system is unlikely to be able to read all Ford-specific codes. You can read the codes yourself using FORScan which is a free download for Windows or a small fee for a smart device. For Windows you'll need a vLinker fs cable, about £30, or for a phone a dongle. Plenty of info about this if you do a search on the forum.

I was pulling hair out over mine. I was convinced it was the panel and after buying one, realised it was not the problem. The pattern part HCV’s are absolutely dreadful. I have Febi Bilstein and Borg & Beck items that both failed after 2-3 months. one defaulted to hot air only and the other would stick intermittently. I found it hard to believe after fitting new items that they could possibly be at fault. But on both, clear signs of rust and moisture in the solenoid. Genuine Ford items are now around £100 if you can find them, even the same Genuine Mazda ones are about £75 and I really don’t know how good they are. I now have a used Genuine Ford item that was fitted 3 months ago and seems OK but I am reluctant to change the setting from cold! No doubt I shall be replacing it again by Winter.

The AsBuilt data is held on Ford servers and accessible through Forscan as long as you have an internet connection to the laptop. Though if the service linked above works and can restore your current module, that would be the easier option. The RCM is located next to the handbrake on the C-Max. You need to remove the plastic floor console around the handbrake etc to access it.

Hi Alan Hope all goes well. Enjoy the drive home.

Can't answer that one I'm afraid. As the outer joints are not available separately from Ford, they don't have any part numbers for me to cross reference against to check the shaft splines. The Ford part numbers on the compatibility list there are for the outer joint plus the shaft together in one assembly. They may be compatible but the correct numbers for your car are below. Left Outer - 1879574 Right Outer - 1879573

Hi all. Recently had this code come up and I cannot find the map sensor. The data stream is as shown

Hi all,my focus nearly cuts out, everytime I stop at traffic lights etc, ie the rev counter comes right down, but doesn't stall the engine

Hi guys, been searching online for an answer to this and haven't been able to find an exact answer to the issue I've had. I was recently on a journey in my van, had been driving fine for 2hrs, stopped for a short period of time and couldn't start again, almost like a dead battery. There had been no problem starting previously. Eventually got it started again by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery terminals. Now, I assumed the issue could be the fact I had just installed a 12v charger in the rear of the van as the wiring was already there for it and other specs have it installed. I was running a 12v cool box off this at the time, I disconnected this and haven't had the issue since. Battery still fine, checked voltage etc. I'm now assuming the van detected the 12v socket as a drain and shut down because of it? I've checked the wiring at the socket and all seems fine. Thinking about replacing the socket and trying again but I'm not sure it'll help. Could also be the box itself I guess but that was working fine. I'd appreciate any ideas if anyone has had similar? Like I say, if I'm not using it it's completely fine and even if I do it will work fine for a good few days/weeks before it shuts down. I have a single battery. Thanks

Just swap it for the passenger side light and see if it works.

Do you not need a tinfoil hat for that to work? 😂