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  2. My silly ***** thought it would be fine if it was bolted to the chassis rather than the car body.
  3. Thanks TomsFocus for the reply. Although I've just caught sight of the MK3 boot leak thread pinned to this forum, and the reason I was looking at getting a newer model was because I have a similar boot leak in my MK2, which has now put me off a Focus entirely.
  4. Is there anything specific you're after with regards to servicing? You can check service schedules from a reg or VIN via the ETIS website. Need to register but it's free to do, just make us some company info lol.
  5. Don't you have any suspension travel on the rear then?
  6. I'm surprised you've found more than one that missed those recalls so easily, thought almost all of them had been done now. The cooling one is to add a low-coolant sensor to the reservoir and a software update to give a dash warning if the coolant drops. A few of these caught fire due to low coolant cracking the head and dropping oil onto the hot exhaust. The clutch one is a software update to reduce engine torque and give a dash warning if the clutch starts slipping. Again, another fire risk as people were driving with slipping clutches which could overheat the friction material and catch fire. They will also manually test the clutch for slipping and if already slipping, will replace it free of charge under the recall - you may be charged for additional work done at the same time though. Any Ford dealer should still apply these recalls free of charge. It'll take a couple of hours so need to be booked in, not a quick 5 minute job.
  7. So recently I've been having an issue when starting in the morning. The car starts fine, then goes into limp mode as I drive away under acceleration, I hear 3 or 4 loud metal tings from the front left side, which I'm guessing is a solenoid of some type, then the engine sounds very uneven, and won't accelerate well. The check engine light flashes for a short period. (limp mode) rpm appears stable, it just sounds like something is knocking in the engine. I'm only guessing it's misfiring. After 5 mins or so it evens out and is fine for the rest of the day. Took it to a local garage and they said no codes were appearing. I've had the battery replaced since this started as it was pretty knackered and hoped that would sort it but it still goes on. Part of the problem I have is by the time I get to a garage it's fine and no codes mean they can't even guess. Any ideas?
  8. My windscreen washer wiper is not working, I’ve checked the fuses and replaced the washer pump that attaches to the bottle but still not working, when the pump is disconnected I can depress the arm button and the wipers come on, when I connect the washer pump the wipers don’t work when depressing the button. There doesn’t appear to be a relay in the fuse box for it, where it says it’s meant to be there are no connectors for a relay hope this makes sense any help would be appreciated 👍
  9. Today
  10. I'm looking at buying a used focus, I've seen a couple that I'd like but both have outstanding recalls - 17S09 - 1.6L GTDI COOLING SYSTEM 18S07 - CLUTCH SLIP DETECTION SOFTWARE I'm guessing not a major problem as they've been going along presumably fine for the past 9 years. Should I be bothered? Will a Ford dealership still check the issue and clear the warning free of charge?
  11. I’m wondering how long those copper pipes would last with my three point turns😀 flexible braided lines every time 👍
  12. If you have a test pen that would make things easier. Select one rear tail lamp to connect the rear camera wire to (either left or right). I am assuming that you would know how to take out the tail lamp here. Unplug the socket from the tail lamp. Get into the ACC mode (not necessary to start the car unless you want to). Engage the Reverse gear which will activate the electricity for the reverse lighting. Use the test pen and test each pin hole to see which one is the reverse lighting wire. Then you just need to use your way of connecting the camera wire to the reverse lighting wire. Good luck!
  13. Yesterday
  14. Thank all, yep under the Duractec air filter the engine casing states 'Zetec SE'. I don't have the service book on me just now but it must be a generic one that they gave with several models as it has a list of different engines with different maintenance schedules for each
  15. Turned out the relais of the PCM failed sometimes wich gave all the following problems and is fixed now. Did not really know that 1 relais could give this many starting issues but good to know now... Thanks for the help.
  16. Thanks Gymfocused, No change in rpm although I can hear a click behind the panel when I press the switch so that part must be doing something.
  17. I hear of this type of problem that a guy had and it turned out to be throttle body issue. He changed this and after finished he had to reset all of the electrical items to get it to tick over. He did this by turning key to first position on but not turn engine over, He then turned every electrical item he had on car, lights, radio, heaters, wipers etc etc and then turned the engine on. This somehow resets the electrical system and the car will now idle normally. I can't say this is your issue but it won't hurt to try as it will not cost any money to do so, and no extra parts are needed to be fitted to do this. Good luck buddy hope you get it running soon.😊
  18. The reverse light wires on the Mk3 Focus should be Green-Brown.
  19. I'll just add to the gloom by saying that for some large companies, with internal promotions sometimes you have to offer it as a new role and open it to external candidates even if a) you have no intention of actually bringing in an external person and b) you know exactly who's going to fill the role. However, on the plus side having a job get close to the deadline without hearing doesn't necessarily mean you've not been considered. With large organisations it will be HR doing the legwork to get the candidates and setting some sort of cut-off for responses, but the hiring manager is the one who actually has to review the applications, and they may have their own deadline. Sometimes what HR deems is a suitable candidate and what the hiring manager actually wants are two different things.
  20. I am thinking it might be that it needs to relearn its end positions. Self test sounds like it is testing the built in position sensor in the valve, compared to the operating movement of the valve. It seems to have a 6 pin electrical connector (if I have found the right part!), so is almost certainly a standard electric motor with pot type position feedback. There could be a problem with this internal sensor, and the new one tried have also not have matched the current calibration, or it may have just lost its settings with the battery disconnect. Have a good hunt round in Forscan (connected to the car), to see if there is a service procedure for this. A general PCM reset or relearn may be an option if there is nothing specific.
  21. All those U errors strongly suggest a bad connection on one of the CAN busses. Most likely in one of the many connectors it undoubtedly passes through. It would need a full wiring diagram to work out which modules are on which bus, and what connectors they go through. CAN busses are very prone to faults, simply because they wind their way to all parts of the car. From your sympton description, loss of steering controls & indications, plus hitting the horn can fix it, I suspect the key errors are to do with the wheel, and the CAN bus (or busses) that probably go to it. I would start looking there, jiggling wires, moving or tapping connectors, etc.
  22. Yes, it's a maintenance message, but it's one of the random messages it's giving, among ABS, tire pressure, start and stop, etc.. I brought the car to an auto electrician after the first time (in June) and they couldn't find nothing in almost 7 days. The error reappeared once between June and the other day but disappeared with a power cycle until yesterday, when the error finally became persistent. Unfortunately we are currently under curfew until 3rd of December, in the meanwhile I said why not, let's try to understand what's going on. Yes, the engine will not turn but not like when the battery is dead: the car beeps and gives the errors in the photo.
  23. Ok, so I have received the throttle body from ebay for the great price of £30, not bad for genuine ford. Starting to take it apart bit by bit, the first issue has reared its ugly head in the shape of one of the body fixing bolts breaking while trying to remove it, 3 out of 4 isn't bad. I will drill this out and tap the hole or just put another bolt in with a nut on the end. Managing to remove most of the components with relative ease, it seems it isn't too difficult to get the body to its bear bones, although a bit of elbow grease to get the end cap out, a bit of drilling and leverage with a small screw driver did the trick in the end. Inside the throttle body shaft there is an area that is raised from the edges of the body, where the throttle plate sits, this is the place that needs to be removed to allow a larger throttle plate to be fitted and move freely. This is as far as I have got with this project so far, will be uploading more pictures as the project progresses. Hopefully this will turn out ok, but i have to take into account the fact that things can and will probably break with a too heavy hand.😜
  24. The standard Ford longlife antifreeze (OAT) is a bright pinky-orangey-yellowy colour. It is not easy to describe, it all depends how the light catches it as to the shade. It is given a 10 year life, I have just changed mine after, I suspect, 14 years. It looked brand new when drained out. No sign of any sludge or rusty debris. And my engine is all cast iron. I think I would stick to the Ford spec. on a 2018 car. At £32 for 5l it is not stupidly expensive. Though it should only need replacing if it has been contaminated, perhaps by a failed head gasket, or lost due to a big hose burst. The old style 2 year anti-freezes are usually blue, sometime darkish red or green. A long time ago, coolant quickly went brown with rust, and was very sludgy when drained. Some things do improve with time!
  25. You still need a flexible line to go from the wheel arch to the calliper. Rigid copper tube would last until you turned the steering wheel for the first time at which point would either kink itself or just rip off lol. It's the same reason your driveshaft uses CV joints instead of a solid shaft. This doesn't really apply to the rear brakes I admit, but the callipers do move in and out as the pads wear so you don't want anything holding them in a specific position or you'll get either stuck on brakes, uneven wear or no brakes at all.
  26. It's definitely worth changing the cambelt and probably water pump. I did mine last year and is a really easy job (the pump is a difficult to get in and out though). If I remember correctly the timing can be checked without removing the crank pulley by just removing the wheel and looking through the wheel arch liner. You'd have had the timing cover for the cams off when you changed the plugs so should be easy enough for you to check.
  27. Any good garage will make you copper brake lines that'll fit perfectly, I wouldn't bother with braided lines
  28. Mines been broken for a week, I just stick a thin bar in there and does the job lol
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