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Focus 2.0 petrol EML P2008 code - Swirl flaps air shut off solenoid fault?
Bolz replied to Palwing's topic in Ford Focus Club
I just created this account to say thank you! The light was on and I went to a mechanic and he said I need to replaced a sensor for 250 AUD and meanwhile he couldn't guarantee to fix it. Today a friend used his reader and got the code P2008. I think it's the problem! -
Bolz joined the community
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Winter wheel & tyres set up confusion
craigjoshuamuscat replied to craigjoshuamuscat's topic in Ford Fiesta Club
For anyone following/looking for a winter set up the same as mine: I took my car in to Ford to have the winter set up fitted - having purchased the recommended wheel nuts x4 - only to find out they're incorrect. The parts number was 5114407 and fits my factory/summer wheels. The nut I needed for my winter wheels has the parts number 5114405; As such, these have been purchased and means the wheels are being fitted later on today. Probably just in time for the freezing temperatures and the light dusting of snow I've had in my area! Anyway, just thought I'd share the info for anyone else. Also, can anyone tell me whether the tyre pressure sensors in my summer wheels will need to be re-programmed to the vehicle every time I swap them over? -
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Apparent PCM failure while in garage
Tdci-Peter replied to FedupCmaxowner's topic in Dealer Problems & Consumer Advice
ECUs (aka by Ford, PCM) are very robust and reliable units. They are designed to withstand a lot of abuse, and rarely just fail randomly. Usually there is a cause. Static electricity (ESD it is called) is one possibility, that can happen when re-connecting connectors, if the operator has not taken some precautions to avoid ESD. Short circuits due to damaged wiring, damaged connectors, or mis-inserted connectors is another possibility. ECUs are nominally designed to withstand reverse voltage and voltage spikes due to jump starting, but damage has been known to happen this way, if batteries are connected the wrong way round or 24v is used. I guess the ECU has been powered down for 2 weeks, with the battery disconnected. There is no known reason why this should damage the ECU, but it is possible that it, or another module, has forgotten or corrupted its PATS (immobiliser) codes. If so it should be clear from error codes what has happened, and it should not be difficult for a dealer level garage to re-programme it. Regarding the oil leak, there are definite guidelines in the MoT manual as to what constitutes an oil leak that would cause a fail. If you had noticed no oil under the car, and no oil loss, then it would be unlikely to be an MoT fail. There have been a lot of reports about garages cashing in on this to deal with insignificant leaks. The MoT manual can be freely downloaded from the government website. Oh, I have just noticed, how on earth can they claim they have fixed the leak if they can not start the engine! That sounds very, very fishy to me. If the garage can not be trusted, then you will have to get the car back, find out what error codes are coming up, and find someone more trustworthy to find out what went wrong. There is a small possibility that evidence of bad practice will show up, but to be honest this is unlikely unless they have done something really bad & obvious. It is very sad when a job goes wrong like this. Just allowing the garage to bill you another £1000 or so to replace the ECU would require a lot of trust in that garage though. -
Haynes has a page and a bit, with photos, on replacing this pump. I have not put it to the test, and Haynes is far from perfect on modern cars, but it looks to be a good start. If you already have the belt off, then I don't think there any major difficulties, except one: The huge importance of extreme cleanliness when dealing with any of the high pressure fuel pipes, or the fuel pipe into the pump. Invisible bits of swarf & dirt will easily wreck both the pump and the injectors. Ford technicians use a mini vacuum cleaner I believe. If you do not already have it, Haynes would be a worthwhile investment for such a critical and potentially expensive job. If urgent, it looks like if you order a manual from the website, you get access to an on-line version immediately.
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Thanks, I will have a go myself tomorrow
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Probably when the brake pad "ears?" rub on the metal clips holding them in. Usually a quick strip down, clean, and new copperslip applied limps them along. The pad can sometimes rub on the lip on the brake disk, you can easily remove that by turning the wheels around (I'd use the engine running in first gear to do that, but not everyone will be so keen) and running a grinder over the lip. Maybe even take some rough emery paper and give the pads a quick once over to toughen them up if they have gone shiny.
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davethetekkie changed their profile photo
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Just had the same problem on my titanium mk2 facelift before Xmas....... Put the car into reverse gear with the ignition on but obviously NOT with the engine running. Put your ear next to each sensor and you should hear a noise coming from it. (My daughter said it’s reminiscent of a type of taser sound-she pinpointed the duff sensor on mine as I have tinnitus) When you find one that isn’t making the noise, that’s the duff one! I managed to get one off e-bay for £11.99 just before Xmas and it now mine works perfectly 👍🏼 (you’ll need to remove the old sensor to see what it looks like to get the correct replacement-easy to get out from under the bumper) I’ve attached a photo of my old one below
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Personally I don't think new owners should have to put up with this kind of sh*te from manufacturers. Ford must be perfectly well aware that a whole batch of cars have gone out with defective components. They should have arranged for dealers to change them before delivery and send the dud ones back. It wouldn't have cost them megabucks for a bit of decent customer relations. If this had happened to me I'd have been very tempted to reject the car and demand my money back. It's a very long time since I bought a brand new car and experiences like this don't encourage me to buy one now, especially from Ford.
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No nothing on the display (mine has the smaller radio display)
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Greengrass joined the community
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Yeah lol I'd agree 😂. They were saying also its a lot of money tuning a NA car. That log effect part I'm sure he said was £950. I'd of got it in carbon fibre. People in the comments were saying how slow the mk6 ST is where peoples friends Corsas and other cars would keep up with it. One person said he traded in his EP3 type R for one and said it was the biggest car mistake he made. Best tunable engine possibly in the mk6 fiesta range is the 1.6 turbo diesel engine. I'm sure easily with a hybrid turbo, focus 110 injectors you can easily get to around 180hp. Just with stock internals you can get 120hp and 276nm with a map.
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Might be a sticking handbrake
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Interested to hear the same. I've had my ST from new and now done just over 30300 miles and I'm still quite happy with the base power.
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Nice review. I'm not sure about the under-bonnet log (!) though, or the tailpipe - it's not the prettiest thing is it? He's also debadged it 👎 - the blue oval would look awesome on that car!
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1.6 TDCi - Can you just bolt on a bigger turbo? (gtb1449vz)
ThePowster posted a topic in Ford Focus Club
Evening guru's. Ok so I'm just wondering out loud here and I've been mulling over the question, so thought I would ask the powers that be, least this way I can sleep at night rather than dreaming about it lol. Is it possible to just bolt on a bigger turbo to the 1.6 TDCi engine ? I'm guessing it's not that easy? I've been reading up and think that a GTB 1449 vz is a direct bolt on but I could be and probably am, wrong lol. So does anyone know what options are out there for a bolt on upgrade? I've seen the hybrid ones but they get fetch big money, these GTB ones are like 70 quid on evilbay. I also read somewhere that a supercharger unit from a mini may bolt on, but again I doubt it's gonna be that easy. I'm just curious if anyone has the answers to this one. Oh while I'm here, I also read 330d BMW injectors go in. Does anyone know if these are plug n go out n play kinda mods? Ta muchly :) -
Any one guys?
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Fordcrazy19 joined the community
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Rubber filler/waterproof putty...Is there such thing.
Stoney871 replied to jace1969's topic in General Chat
It sets like rubber but can be pulled out just as essily as silicone. I love the stuff. Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+) -
Oil leak from sump gasket or worse Main seal.
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@TimST2 Carol shelby would be proud 👍. Reminds me a little of the one in need for speed. I do like this video uploaded today.
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The dashcam made a major difference to my quotes. I'm not sure what the requirements are for image quality or if you need to use a certain brand or have it professionally installed though.
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Hi @Bannko, recently purchased a ford kuga 65 plate with sync 2 fitted and would like to replace my compass with sat nav. Could you pm me the information required to do this if possible much appreciated Adam
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I have a 2017 fiesta zetec 1.0 ecoboost auto and i have a brake problem that i've been unable to diagnose. basically when the brakes are applied there is an intermittent squeak/rubbing....cars been in garage, brakes checked out fine, suspensions been checked and fine along with some other stuff as well The garage has done everything to try and find what the cause is but even they are at a loss also.....can anyone PLEASE help and give me some idea of what could be causing my issue? tia
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HoganA joined the community
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ST club, Farnborough (and Bristol)
TimST2 replied to TimST2's topic in Was it you!? FOC Members Spotted!
I posted this recently: Not Bristol, but close by... -
ST club, Farnborough (and Bristol)
Steer replied to TimST2's topic in Was it you!? FOC Members Spotted!
Any of you know of car meets in bristol? -
Possibly a bit overpriced. According to AutoTrader (based on the reg and actual mileage):
