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Source: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/tsbs-how-articles/32202-how-make-your-own-low-profile-car-ramps.html

Took me one day to get a compliment lol, fuelled it up the day after I got it and guy on way out of garage shop said 'nice car mate', I've had about 5-6 compliments in the 10 months I've had it....does make your day.

Went down to the local dump today to get rid of my old TV (which I fixed/broke) and when in behind a nice old Land Rover defender in a pretty cool off-road spec, and orange paint. I’m not a huge fan of a Land Rover, but when I got out of my ST he complemented it massively and said it was an absolutely great looking car! Made my day.

My girl (Savanna) this afternoon, whilst I was busy working she didn't have a care in the world...

Liam is 1 year old today having a Pawty now after a 10km/6.2 Mile walk

I picked up my Puma ST Line X First Edition EcoBoost Hybrid 125PS mHEV Petrol on Saturday. I is packed with great driver assistance features etc which need some reading up and trying out to get familiar with. I have found the owner's manual lacking in clear photos of the switches and certain controls. This makes the learning curve overly steep!! So I took photos of the switches etc as a reference set. Very useful. I attach the photos here to help others familiarise themselves with their new Pumas. The photos are not annotated. I hope the pictures are clear. If not, I will convert the photos into jpg or similar format for this forum. Puma controls.pdf

I've got ramps but yes found modern cars too low so I've got what you might call ramps for the ramps, to lessen the angle.

I never found ramps successful. Low ride height and deep bumpers mean they scuff the bumper before raising the car They also slip unless you can hold them down somehow.

Unfortunately I have an awful suspicion you may be right there!😃

Like the black. I fancy a Vignale in black.

Now ceramic coated. LOL

Today I SHOULD have been listening to and watching these artistes, along with many others, at an '80s festival just outside Edinburgh 😞 Ah well, maybe next year then 🙄🤞

I do like receiving my new laptop battery today... Looks surprisingly genuine given the price... Anything specific I should do with it? I'm planning to just bang it in at 3pm then leave it plugged in and switched off until I got to bed.... Edit - Just noticed the new one is 4910mAh but the old one was 4200... Presumably that just means it'll last longer right? No idea what the original was!

The CANBUS will still be awake for about 10 minutes so it may just be that. I'm not sure if it does a bulb test after switch off (to remember for next start), or after switch on. If it does a test after switch off, the LEDs will illuminate slightly as they take such a low amount of power. Not all bulbs are on the test on Mk3...I had a sidelight out with no warnings. Brake bulbs are definitely checked though.

Maybe the OP has a point. This is mine after 18 months and 10K miles (some of its dirt!)

Took me a minute! 😆

After 15 years of no motorcycle, going to a motorcycle dealer and ordering a new motor scooter and a new outfit 😁

I'm gonne be ordering one when pre-orders start. One thing I'm not keen on is that GTA V is getting another port over so that will be 3 generations of console it has been on. I do like that I'll get an extra $1m a month until it releases on PS5 just for logging in and being a PS4 PS+ subscriber and player.

Do you live in a salty area near the sea or park over damp grass? Unpainted mild steel will always rust but that is a bit surprising for just 6 months. Fords are cheap and use cheap parts, can't really be compared to BMW, Toyota and VAG.

Sounds like they are using resistors/capacitors to fool the canbus in to thinking it’s a normal bulb. I’ve seen it sometimes where these bulbs will hold a slight bit off charge and this can cause the LEDS to glow very dim when whilst the remaining voltage is drained from the capacitor in the actual bulb. It’s nothing to worry about, I can only assume they’ve changed the design to off how the LEDS work to Pro long life expectancy of the LED unit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Netflix they said Be fun they said,

Aww bless him! I forgot the cat's last 2 birthdays, remembered their 3rd but the best they got was "happy birthday now go eat your food and leave me alone!"

My 3 dogs watch tv, they seem to like car shows [emoji106]. My old collie used to whimper and grumble at anything on the screen with more than two legs. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Anybody elses dog watch tele?

Just thought I would mention a quick mod to those with small monochrome display in instrument cluster. Just swapped in a larger tft cluster, plug and play apart from writing in my higher current mileage. Doing that next.

Agree^ The clutch in my 1.8 petrol Focus seems about average for how heavy it is. It’s A bit Heavier than some of the small engined pool cars I’ve driven at work, but lighter than the one in my old BMW 320d was for example. Although I never found that particularly too heavy.

Lol we baffled ourselves on another thread with a similar topic on the original Mk 7 Titanium which came on 45's - my car certainly had them and that's what the brochure said, but some members reported they had 50's. I wouldn't have thought there was a lot of difference either - we had another Fiesta on 50's and I can't say we were bothered by the ride on either car. I find the 205/45x17s on my current ST-Line absolutely fine, even with the lower suspension, but as you say, ride comfort is a very personal thing.

After rewinding the rear caliper piston when replacing the rear brake pads the auto adjusting mechanism should adjust itself when pressing the brake pedal. Jus a few times pressing the brake pedal should be enough to auto adjust the mechanisms. If one (or both) of the auto adjusting mechanisms do not auto adjust there is a lot of slack on the cable. In this case it is important to determine which caliper is causing the problem. The mechanism can either be seized, stuck or defective. I have seen before that rewinding the piston back too far resulted in a stuck auto adjusting mechanism.

Hi, yes you will almost certainly have the standard H7 bulbs. You can either buy brighter/whiter H7 halogen bulbs such as Phillips WhiteVision (my current choice) or upgrade to LED H7's. Autobeam are highly recommended on here for LED's, but they aren't cheap!

This is mine, one year old, bit of surface discolouration that's all. 6300 miles around 10000km

New mats from logocarmats.com: The're a perfect fit and feel like good quality.

Only if you're on Tinder/Grindr... It was a lockdown rule that you're not allowed to have s*x with another person from outside your household. Don't think my neighbour has been following that advice though...not unless he's got a 2 metre long c...

Pity, maybe we can make 2021 a show to remember. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Currently playing on SXM 80s on 8

Not anyone with sense, style, taste, more than one brain cell............. [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

OMG - Not this again............................................ h

Our Golden Retriever Kyry. She's turning 9 at the end of the month but still as playful as a puppy.....

Hi Wayne, Yes, I am very happy with the Puma. I’m very much in “play mode” at present getting to understand all the new features. The Puma is lovely to drive. Good responsive steering. Good acceleration. Very comfy too. The YouTube review of the Puma by Autotrader is a must see. I’m pretty sure you will enjoy your Puma.

That's a great point, well made. 👍😁

I've also done this quite recently on a new tyre that was fitted for just a couple of weeks. After checking that it hadn't gone down to the reinforcement and wasn't bulging I just glued it back using impact adhesive. It's been fine since and I can't now see the repair.

So about Four weeks ago now I was coming home from work when I got a service engine now like come up on my dash and kicking the car into limp mode so took it to a local garage to see what it was Got told it was fault code P1102 which is a MAF sensor so got it replaced with the part from ford them self but replacing the sensor had made no difference as it keeps coming on and 3 different garages now one of which was ford cant tell me whats is causing the car to keep given me this code its been reset so many time now i have forgot and its been checked to make sure there is no updates etc . . For it its a 2016 focus 1.5 tdci has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you get it sorted

This is a known problem of the Focus MK3. The problem is basically caused by a composite reinforcement wire that is vulcanised inside the rubber material of the weatherstrips. During the manufacturing proces of the weatherstrips this reinforcement wire is stretched. During time the reinforcement wires shrinks and puts a significant amount of tension on the weatherstrips. This amount of tension causes the weatherstrips to come loose at the ends or in the corners. The solution for this problem is to cut the reinforcement wires at a few particular locations to eliminate the tension on the wire. When cutting the wire you actually hear it snap. After cutting the reinforcement wire the weatherstrips can be glued back into place. Ford prescribes a 2K adhesive for glueing the weatherstrips. I personally prefer Loctite 406 for glueing the weatherstrips. Loctite 406 is an instant adhesive specifically designed for rubber and plastic material. Just glueing the weatherstrips back without cutting the reinforcement wire is usually only a temporary solution. This usually causes the weatherstrip to come loose at a different location (usually in the corners). Years ago Ford released a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that describes the recommended repair procedure for this problem. Note that a TSB is just a method to inform Ford dealers about known problems and the recommended solution. A TSB has nothing to do with warranty! Below some relevant information from this TSB: Service Information: Damage symptoms of the door weatherstrip (Focus 2011.25 front door shown, all other similar) NOTE: It would not be possible that these two different damage symptoms (1 & 2) are called at same time. 1: Slightly stripped off and partially removed front door weatherstrip on the door underside 2: Partially removed front door weatherstrip in the area of the door latch Service Instruction: Attach the door weatherstrip to the door frame 1: WARNING: Safety instructions of material equipment provided by the manufacturer must be observed. Prepare the repair adhesive kit. Refer to the manufacturer's directions. 2: In reference to the damage symptom, the inside vulcanised fine wire should be cut. 1: Bend the door weatherstrip to get access to the inside vulcanised fine wire. CAUTION: Do not damage the paint surface. The wire snap can audible be observed. 2: Briefly cut through the fine wire. 3: Range of separation for partially removed weatherstrips in the area of the door latch. 4: Range of separation for partially removed weatherstrips on the door underside. ◦Clean and dry the repair area. It is not required to remove any remaining traces of adhesive from the door frame. 3: NOTE: Allow the repair adhesive to dry (drying time ≥ 1 hour). Apply repair adhesive (see Parts Required) to the door weatherstrip (door underside shown, other repair areas similar). ◦Max. Ø of adhesive bead: 3 mm 4: Place the door weatherstrip on the door frame in the correct position. Secure the door weatherstrip on the door frame using tape (door underside shown, other repair areas similar). 5: NOTE: If the ambient temperature falls below 10°C, apply warm air (25°C) continuously. Press the door outer weatherstrip home for at least one minute in order to obtain complete adhesion (door underside shown, other repair areas similar). 1: Using a suitable plastic roller to press-on the weatherstrip. make sure that equal pressure is applied to the component. 2: Carefully check the correct position of the weatherstrip on the door frame. ◦Allow the repair adhesive to dry in reference to the manufacturers' directions but not less than 5 hours. ◦Remove any used tape. 6.If required, repeat steps 2 to 5 on the remaining doors. I performed this procedure on several vehicles that had this problem (including my own Focus MK3) and until today none of the weatherstrips did ever come loose again.

Aftermarket is your only option. It will cost around £150 for all the adaptors so the new radio will play nice with the car plus the cost of the radio. But you will have more options and features than the standard. Below is a photo of an aftermarket touchscreen to give an idea of what it will look like

After replacement of the brake shoes it will take some time before the shoes are fully bedded in and obtain there full potential. Next to this the Focus MK2 is a heavy car for these relative small drum brakes. Even in perfect condition the drum brakes are not powerful enough to lock the wheels while moving off. If you want a powerful parking brake you have to retrofit the original rear disc brakes. Many European countries did have disc brakes as standard on all Focus MK2/MK2.5 versions. In these countries even the 80 HP 1.4 Duratec did have rear disc brakes as standard.

Check where you have the vent control set. The air-con always comes on when the air flow is turned to full windscreen. This is a 'feature' of the car (designed like this to help demist the screen presumably).