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Just added these to my LX, my goodness, what a difference! 0 - 60 is now, well, OK, no change whatsoever but at least it gets to 60! 🤣 LOL

I do like finding out this morning that my new 2 seater recliner sofa will be delivered next Wednesday. Looking forward to having it in my flat as it will be the first brand new sofa I've ever had or bought.

mmm... just wondering... has this forum made preparations for Brexit? LOL

Had to take a closer look.

Take this as advice from someone who's been through uni and post graduation work life, and is still young... Sure, the work life is 'easier' than uni life (no exam or coursework stress, weekends to yourself, you get to earn money, spend it on cars/hols whatever you want), but your uni life is when you get to socialise the most, and enjoy yourself to the max, and make life long friends and maybe even find a lifelong partner. Post graduation, the mundane-ness of 'adulting' really kicks you (even despite the extra cash), and most new friendships you make are on a superficial level. Enjoy your uni years, don't stress, you'll only get to live it once.

I must've been quite lucky with my laptop, it's over 6 years old now and only needed a couple of batteries in that time. Admittedly it is slow now and struggles to get anywhere near the performance of my budget smartphone, but that's technology in this modern age, the important thing is it still works despite all the crumbs, dust and anti-bac cleaner!

I get where you're coming from now. I thought the reference was to a fasten searbelt warning not a status message. Mate has a Clio and it has a light on the overhead console and a dash messsge showing the status of the rear belts. He buckles the rear belts even when empty to cut the dash message. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

That's as it should be, Clive and I (and I'm sure Gary also) was not talking about the "no seat belt" warning. I certainly have no issue with visual and audible warning that belt(s) are not fastened. This Fiesta is however the the first car I've had that tells me in such an intrusive fashion that belts are fastened (no doubt because of legislation) but I find this unnecessary and distracting. Moan over!😀

Don't forget Moonlight Shadow. For those of us old enough to remember The Fast Show, it was the Dave Angel theme.

Sadly I don't need to Google😀. First car I spun was a Morris 1000 (company pool car on crossplies), only other was a Marina TC which had similar suspension but a mighty 95 bhp. On the original point, I've always stuck with the "big name" brands, in part influenced by our fleet management system at work which always showed them as giving best mileage results, barring accidental damage. I've had the odd Hankook etc which have come on a couple of nearly new Fords I've had, don't recall any particular issues.

Since my last oil change approximately 8500 miles ago, I haven’t noticed any major fuel consumption. If it has used anything, it’s drops at most.

That was the only car I spun round a roundabout backwards, but it was a loaner and my then XR2 could take it easily at 45MPH. However, my driving skills back then were lousy, and solely based on watching Starsky & Hutch, and also Bodie & Doyle. (Our younger readers may have to 'google' LOL)

My first cinema film was Star Wars (god i'm old [emoji21]). Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Jury is still out on that one, Clive. Alex reckons it was pretty buggy, but Tezza and I have not seen the same bugs - Tezza from the start, me after flashing Tezza's files. I'm happy to report back after I've had some time to live with it, but generally the system seems a whole lot more responsive than before... in about 5 mins I'll throw a little explanation together (though its fairly well explained on the guide linked, just different files used). If those who are interested but a bit unsure grab the files (before we lose access), then those of use who have done it can report back if we have problems. Gives folk time to decide...

Hopefully by your choice 😂 not like Josf Fritzl

Ooh suit you sir nostalgic 😅 you will now think wow was it always this powerful ? Why were you not driving for a week? Although Greta would thank you

Not driving for a week and getting into it again 😊

I remember visiting Dagenham along with other representatives of fleet users - this would be late 70's/early 80's. At one work station engine blocks were arriving at the same time as the set of 4 pistons/conrods, and the task of the guys was to put the pistons into the block and send them off to the next part of the process. At one point a block arrived with only 3 pistons. The guy just put them into the block and let it go on it's way. I mentioned this and asked if it would be rectified later "dunno mate, not my job, and don't f***ing care anyway" was the response. Elsewhere a group were stood around smoking and chatting as the line had stopped upstream of their work station. Visiting factories (car and otherwise) only a few years later, when Japanese ideas like kanban had taken hold, you would see guys in a similar situation rushing back up the line to see if they could help clear the stoppage. So things did change! My own feeling is that the basic i/c engine has been developed to an impressive degree of efficiency and reliability, it's all the "stuff" to try and make it comply with emission regulations that were never dreamed of years ago that seem to cause a lot of issues, directly or indirectly. Must be a nightmare for manufacturers at the moment with no clear phase out date for i/c engines, and wondering which technology to back. Politicians seem to favour battery electric which to me is beset by problems of its own - finite supply of rare materials for batteries, need to generate "clean" electricity, charging networks etc - while hydrogen seems to be virtually ignored, though I did see something about the Chinese favouring going in that direction.

I do like enjoying a glass (or five) of red wine on my last Friday of holiday before returning to hell - sorry - work on Monday. Yay, can't wait...

Oh, worse!!! And don't get me started on the ecoblue issues!!

A common problem is a leaking injector which can cause blue smoke on start up because the injector seal is passing 24/7 it fills the cylinder when the engine is off; this then gets chucked when the engine is operating causing blue smoke, Of there are wires going to a small box which would be fitted to the side of the battery box then it has a dpf. If theres no small box with two cables attached to the left side of the battery box then there is no dpf, Also how reliable in truth or how jealous in spite is this work mate likely to be?

Did the AA actually do a compression test or just give up because the code reader didn't find anything? Did the oil pressure warning light come on at all? Or the battery warning light? Is the aux belt still on? With respect, it doesn't sound like you have the tools or experience to be checking the timing. You'd need to jack the car up, get the wheel and arch liner off, remove the upper engine mount, crank pulley and then strip off the belt covers to see if everything's still lined up. Not a simple job I'm afraid.

All in our compound. 😂😂😂😂😂😂

A road near me made the local newspaper after the road was resurfaced ( properly with tarmac and not the chippings method. When you drove on the road( which I did every day) the road played a tune via the tyres. Real peculiar. Was like it for 12 months or more until it wore down a bit. Lots of people commented on it Chris rea tune springs to mind as it was my road to work. Lol

Thought I’d update this. Now have a working rear view camera using the grey plug. So easy to do and cost me under £25

For those of you that have been losing sleep over the 'folding/breaking' window scenario, have just folded mirror completely, as can be seen, no danger. Phew, dodged a bullet there LOL

There is......... I just make a point of not parking on them! 😆

they were a terrible idea when they came out many years ago, when I bought my car it had one intact! Ford replaced them all last year as a good will gesture for breaking my wheel hub on it's MOT (this is a Ford main dealer) less than a year later, the same main dealer changed cam belt and stretch belt and broke two of them after telling me the year before tire depots break them by not knowing what they are doing.... They replaced them again. Wheel nuts you can't use air guns with in 2009? top idea.

Be aware that Ford switched from the old style alloy wheel nuts to the new style Global wheel nuts in 2012. The reason for this is to standardise the wheel nuts on most Ford models and to reduce the amount of different wheel nuts that were used before. The old style (2-piece or 1-piece) alloy wheel nuts are not compatible with the new style Global wheel nuts. You have to use the correct wheel nut that belongs to the wheels. Using the incorrect type of wheel nuts can result in damage to the wheels or the wheel can even come loose. Most Ebay/Amazon sellers do not even know that there are different types of nuts. The wheel nuts from the Amazon link are cheap copies of the Ford Global wheel nuts. These are only compatible with Global wheels and can not be used with the old design alloy wheels. Next to this these nuts are galvanised. On the pictures these nuts are shiny but generally galvanised steel becomes dull within a few weeks. The Ford wheel nuts with stainless steel caps will last very long as long as they are treated correctly. These wheel nuts must be removed/installed by hand. Removing/installing them with an impact wrench causes the stainless steel caps that are pressed onto the nuts to stretch and eventually to come loose. The (2-piece old design) wheel nuts that I use are over 10 Years old and still in mint condition. None of the stainless steel caps did ever come loose. My wheels are removed/installed at least twice a Year and I only remove/install the nuts by hand.

In 2006 Ford changed from the old design GEM module/fuse box to he new design GEM module/fuse box. The old design GEM module/fuse box is no longer available. If the GEM module/fuse box needs to be changed it will be replaced by the new design. Both types of GEM module/fuse box are interchangeable. The GEM module/fuse box installed into your car is the new design type. This suggests that it has been replaced in the past. The layout of the new design GEM module fuse box is described in the owners manual of a late 2006 (and onwards) Focus MK2 and MK2.5.

What can I say, we all like to live life on the edge 😂

I've had my 2017 1ltr EcoBoost MK8 125 (manual) for a year and I check the oil constantly. I've not had to top it up once in between services so if it is using oil it's not discernable. Mileage has gone from 7500 to 14000 during the last year.

I have recently noticed a resurgence of vehicle specific threads being posted in the general and new members forums. If your post is for a specific model or of a technical origin then the respective forums must be used. I have endeavoured to move all current incorrectly posted threads that I have seen to the correct forums but from this point onwards, any posts I or my fellow moderators find that are not in the right place will be deleted without notice. This will also stand for any posts in the New Members thread that are asking for advice or information. The New Members area is strictly for introductions only!

The 3 Cylinder ecoboost can feel a little bit rough at low rpm but it's certainly not much worse than a 4 cylinder. Are you sure you aren't changing up too early and running in a higher gear than is required for the situation.? I sincerely hope they didn't grease the brake disks, that would be dangerous, and I've never heard of brake chains before so I have no idea what that is referring to. The brakes on my 2019 Fiesta are fine and consistent. I'd suggest finding another mechanic/dealer to look at it or maybe book yourself in for a test drive of a similar model to yours and see how that feels.

Just an update on my impressions after 5 days of ownership. I mentioned before that the gearbox felt a bit notchy in comparison to the MK7 but it now seems OK, maybe it's freed up a bit or I have just got used to it. Still forgetting 6th gear though, if it wasn't for the dash light recommending I change up I'd probably do half the journey home in 5th. 😄 One thing that does seem a bit odd is it keeps suggesting I change up to 6th at about 40 mph when I'm on a slight up hill, that equates to about 1500 rpm which feels a bit too low to me, especially as I'm running it in and you are advised not to lug the engine. I'm just ignoring that for now and using 4th/5th on that section of road. I am now averaging about 50 mpg on the dash readout, if it's anything like the MK7 that would be about 47 mpg using the brim to brim calculation. So not too bad as it's still only done about 360 miles and being run-in . My MK7 seemed to gain about 5mpg after I'd done about 6000 miles or so. The MK7 horn sounded like a noddy car and was a bit embarrasing to use, I can now confirm the horn on the MK8 ST-Line X 140 is much improved 👍 and I can now blast away at all the idiots who are about to pull out in front of me without shame 🤣 There's definitely less road noise from the tyres compared to the MK7 although I can't say if that's due to better isolation from the car or the different tyres. The MK7 was on Continental sport contact 5's and the new MK 8 is on Michelin Pilot Sport 4's. Was very happy with the Conti's on the MK7, I was going to get about 40,000 miles out of the fronts, they were on about 4mm at 33,000 miles. The rears were still on 6mm. The grip in wet and dry and the handling was also excellent on the Conti's. I get the feeling the Pilots sport 4's will be just as good if not better in handling, remains to be seen how long they last though. Had to go over a bridge today that is notorious for Crosswinds, there are warning signs well before the bridge but it often catches people out as the first part of bridge has high concrete walls either side, but once you pass them it's a real fight to keep it in your lane on very windy days. Today was one of those days 45mph + gusts. I've been over that bridge many times in the MK7 in those conditions but I think the MK8 is much better in that respect, felt very stable. I'll bore you all with some more updates once I've completed the run in period and had a chance to evaluate the performance and handling compared to the MK7.

No no, dealers make money from referring people to finance companies.

Lol posted this elsewhere without reaction. I suspect the marked lack of interest from the enthusiast fraternity on here may indicate this will be a great success with the general public!😀

Well replaced F1EB-19B514-AC which is the external boot switch, the actual button on the PCB is faulty.

Do the keys start the car? Is it just the remote central locking bit that doesn't work? You can program the remotes separately, but you need to program ALL of them at once. The procedure is on this forum somewhere 😁

Cheers Stephen, I have the trim covers and fogs already fitted (my profile pic shows them after I painted them). Thanks again for your help, much appreciated.

Yes, I am also glad someone else can see the RS3's for what they really are. Also agree with the P6000's. I had them on a car years ago, and changed them for P7's, which were only a little better IMO. There are, for sure, some exceptions to the "get what you pay for" idea when it comes to tyres. But I have found that, in general, if you can stick to Goodyear, Michelin or Continental, you are pretty safe. I only really dislike the wear rate on the Continental tyres I have bought, so rarely are considered. As I said on my first post, I have tried many budget, and mid-range tyres. My favourite of which being the Vredestein. They really were a good tyre, and I would happily recommend them to friends or family if they didn't have the cash for a premium tyre. For example, the tyres I have on my current fleet include Davanti winter tyres on my 2006 Honda CRV (hate them tyres, but they were new when I bought the car, and just now at least am too cheap to change them for something better. But they spin up too easy, feel very "washy" on the road, and are loud). My 2001 Volvo S40 has a combination of Michelin Cross Climates on the front and Primacy 4's on the rear. My Clio 197 F1 has some Yokohama tyres on it (I think), but I've only had that car a month, and am getting all the mechanical bits sorted before putting PS4's on it. And my Focus has the Assy 5's. So a range of tyres at a range of budgets really.

You've lost me there, I've only studied the wiring necessary for my circumstances. Perhaps you could provide a guide when you're done for a total retrofit from nothing??!

Hi Welcome

It is an idea, though all the real problems occur inside the tap casings, and inside the shower control unit. It jams threads as effectively as rust. I could have mixed up some tartaric acid, which I use to de-scale kettles, and tried getting it to go inside the casing at the top where the tap stem comes out, but it would be very difficult to get enough in. I now suspect the basin moved up a bit on the stupid sloping clamp plates that hold it to the wall, and has stressed the pipes that come out of the wall, turn 90deg, then go straight on to the taps. One seems to have sealed, but the other still has a very slight leak. Undoing it to clean and remake the joint is not going to be easy. Either I have to knock tiles off to lift the basin, or power file through the clamp plates. The screws are inaccessible. Plumbers!!!

There seems to be a problem with the App, see this post

Nighteye do a good range of pure white LED fog lights, as do Autobeam. I favour nighteye as they have a good reputation. If you go down the LED route then most will have a heat sink on the back so you may require larger rubber boots to cover the back of the bulb, you can get them off eBay for about £5. bear in mind that pure white fog lights will be useless in fog.

The tests certainly seem to point to brake pad or disk noise. Copper grease is not really used now, more modern compounds like Ceratec are used, and Ford official policy is not to use anything. I doubt if lack of grease is the true answer, though it is quite possible that applying some grease or ceratec might provide at least a temporary cure. First simple stage is to check wheel nut torque. If too loose, the disks will rotate a little on the bolt holes. More likely is either the brake pads are a poor fit on the caliper brackets, or the brackets are worn, with steps in them. A thorough brake overhaul would be the cure. I always lightly file the wear areas on the caliper brackets to remove wear steps, when servicing my brakes. New pads might fix it, either a better fit in the brackets, or avoiding the wear step.

Guess what I just got myself! Yep, an old Samsung, but brand new. I love folks that get upgrades every 6 months and stick it in a drawer and forget about it. May be 7 years old, but will do me fine and I suppose it's the smallest footprint I'll get in a smartphone having a 3" screen. Happy bunny 😀

Fitting LED indicators to a Mk3 Focus Hatchback (estate may be the same but I can't guarantee). Crap you will need (and where I got it from - all from eBay): 4x 581 Amber LED bulbs - This link is for a pair, so you will obviously need 2 lots if you buy from here. 4x Ballast resistors and Scotch Lock connectors - can be bought separately but this is reasonable value. Some electrical tape or small self tapping screws to mount the resistors. T27 torx bit Pliers help So does a Stanley Knife. Helpfully (!) I haven't managed to take photos of dismantling the light clusters but put simply: Front Light Cluster: 2x T27 Torx bolts hold these in, one near the centre grille, one near the rear point of the light over the wing. When undone, pull the light towards the front of the car and unclip the loom. You should be looking at this: Note the orientation of the loom plug, with the release clip at the bottom and scotchlock your resistor with the 2 wires connected to the shown wires. The colours for the indicator wire (Yellow in this case) may be different for driver and passenger side, but the ground wire should be Black/Grey on both sides. IT DOES NOT MATTER which way round your resistor goes. There is plenty of room to fit the scotchlocks close to the loom plug so you are not stripping back extra sheathing. My DRL dim wire is locked onto my passenger side loom as well and there's still room, it just might be a bit fiddly. There are places to screw your resistor to metalwork if you want, but bear in mind that you want to leave enough loose cable on the loom to make it easy to fit and remove the headlights in future if needed. I simply electrical taped my resistors to the loom wires. It doesn't look pretty, but sits below the light so isn't seen. Also, unlike headlight LEDs which dissipate a LOT of heat, remember that these are only on for 50% of the time when working so there is not much heat build up to get rid of. The bulb itself is changed by removing the rubber bung on the bottom of the headlight fitting. They should only fit one way round. If you are also changing your foglights, skip below before putting these back. Reassemble in reverse. Rear Light Cluster Either side of the boot hatch, behind the light cluster there is a little carpeted panel. Pop that out and behind there will be a large-ish black plastic wingnut. Undo this (use the pliers if needed cause they can be a bit tight) but be careful not to drop it inside the bodywork. There is a second wingnut above this hatch, but under the plastic runner that the parcel shelf sits on. Get a torch. It's there! Once those 2 wingnuts are off, the light will be slightly loose. Gently pull it squarely AWAY from the car towards the side that it is on ( ie, pull left for the left hand light). It should pop away. Be careful near the 'point' of the light that points to the front of the car. Don't pull the light away just from the chunky part of the light or you risk cracking the point. It shouldn't be too tough though. Again unplug the loom. Again, note the orientation of the loom here, with the clip at the bottom. Again, the wire colours for the indicator may differ from driver to passenger side, but the Black/Grey ground wire should be the same. If you want you can check the correct wire by unclipping the loom SOCKET from the light cluster and following the coloured wire from the indicator bulb holder back to the socket. Now, there's not a lot of room for the ballast resistor to go behind the cluster once back on the car, but if you note the colour of your wire (Orange/Green and Orange/Purple in my case) you can find the loom INSIDE the car behind the little carpet panel you took out. Carefully strip back the black tape to reveal the wires and scotchlock here. Again, I simply taped the resistor back onto the loom cable to stop it rattling around. Don't forget to lock onto your Black/Grey ground wire here too. Put the light back in reverse, but it's worth while putting a smear of grease on the foam gaskets that (apparently) seal the holes where the lights attach to the car if you haven't already. Be sure to put a little 'inward' pressure on the cluster when tightening up the wingnuts to make sure it pulls snug to the car. You can use pliers but don't overtighten it and strip the thread. Done! Also, Front Fog Lights (sort of): These are Plug and Play, but getting to them is a bar steward. I believe you are supposed to get to them by removing the front clusters and reaching down but a quick inspect looked like there was a lot of other stuff in the way to reach past. Instead I went through the front wheel arches. Turn the front wheels to full lock to allow access to the front of the arch. But please please please do NOT steer while your car is not moving! Let your car roll forward while you steer, even if it is a crawl! There are 3 torx bolts to undo in total. IIRC, they are 2 different sizes, T25 and T27. The first one is at the outer bottom of the wheel arch. The other 2 are under the front of the car. You might need an angle ratchet or a short socket to undo these. Holy crap! Is it that time already?! Prise back the arch liner. With a bit of gentle bending, it will pop out at the bottom and give you room to work. Peekaboo! There's our fog light holder. Turn as shown. I'm pretty sure that was the right way, but obviously if you meet resistance, don't force it! These pictures show the driver's side. The passenger side turns the same way, but is quite a bit harder to get to - I had to do it by feel. Reassemble! The difference between LED and stock halogen! Interesting to note the difference in the throw of light though... All matched up! Really tempted to get some Hyper Blues now @kpg =] Enjoy!