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It could be that the doors are set to drivers door only. Have a scroll through the dashboard settings and look in locks. It may be ticked to only open the drivers door. Untick that box and tick open all doors instead. As for stop start, tbh I've not heard of any issues regarding that or low battery charge ...........honest.... @unofix.......😄

Maybe we are looking at this the wrong way round ? The Names of the ‘BMS’ ‘SOC’ ‘BCM’ and ‘Battery’ have been changed to protect their identities. Once upon a time ‘Jones the Steam’ was told by the ‘Fat Controller’ that he must fill Thomas’ little 52 gallon tank. “Make sure to never put more than 80% in Thomas’ tank” said the Fat Controller “or he might work too much” And so it was, Jones the Steam made sure never to overfill Thomas and kept the little tank engine thirsty and always wanting more. One day when the Fat Controller was taking a nap, some engineers decided that little Thomas must be replaced by Gordon. Now Gordon was a much bigger engine and had a 70 gallon tank. What was poor Jones the Steam to do? He had been given clear instructions by the Fat Controller to always fill up to 80% of the tank. So Jones the Steam set about filling Gordon and putting 56 gallons in his tank. The Fat Controller was pleased that his instructions to only ever fill to a maximum of 80% was working but he was strangely puzzled how it was that now they seemed to be using more water. Then one morning the Fat Controller decided that they needed to get more done and that this would mean Jones the Steam would have to put 95% in Gordon’s tank. Gordon was very happy with this new arrangement as he always felt full and content and was able to work hard every day and never complained about needing more. The End.

Correct, but you have got to feel sorry for The Fat Controller and Jones the Steam. They both know what should be done but the have their hands tied behind their backs by the Supreme Leader, Mr Green. Mr Green lives with his head in the clouds and should be called Mr Brown because that is the colour if everything that he talks and his sycophantic followers are in positions of power everywhere. If you dare to disobey Mr Green then his thugs, the Blue Meanies will make everyone's life hell. The Fat Controllers European counterpart, Der Fat Controller tried to inject some common sense a few years ago regarding a related thing and it cost his company millions.

Credit: Julia Hartley Brewer (TalkRadio presenter) There once was an MP called Keir, Who said Covid was his biggest fear. So whatever the task, He put on his face mask, And caught Covid most weeks of the year.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!! You have not seen anything serious yet on your good conditioned roads!!! You'll have to see our roads and our drivers (greek drivers) to know how a person have to commit suiside just by driving his car! We are the worst drivers in the world (after India of course) becaouse of our ego! Let's see some greek ego on our roads: ''Who are you to tell me how i am going to stop or not to a stop sign?'' ''I am a resident of this area here , i live here since you were on your father's *****, so do not tell me why i do not use my indicator to turn wherever and whenever i want to !!!'' ''Redlight? No!!! it was orange when i passed through the crossroad violating the speed limit and almost hit a bicyclist who was cycling leggaly on his side of the road!!!'' ''Helmets are for the stupid and those who are not able to drive a motorcycle like us.... we are such so good drivers!!! Feeling the air on your face is something great!! Besides helmet messes my beutiful hair up!'' ''IN THE GARAGE: ''Hello! Could you turn of the seatbelts warning alert? It drives me crazy while i am driving cool with no seatbelts at all...Who the hack invented the seatbelts'' And more...

Did they keep you all in a 'cage' 🤣

If anyone's interested, this year's Royal Institute Christmas lectures are on Covid and hosted by JVT. BBC4 8pm yesterday, today and tomorrow. (Freeview 9). Or catch up on iPlayer. Thought yesterday's was pretty good myself.

Disappointed with the lack of ................. Manual Choke Knob Manual dipping rear mirror Pedal on the floor for the High Beam Big manual handbrake lever Handles to wind down the widows (just encase of emergencies) Simple 2 speed blower fan, not this complex climate control stuff. Parcel shelf to put my AA road atlas on and they say this progress ?

Uh… petrol?

I don't like feeling kinda sorry for myself today in a totally selfish way! Firstly I learnt of the death of one of my musical heroes who has helped me through good times and bad since I discovered his album Bat Out Of Hell, I was even privileged to see him in concert in 1988. I'm sure you're all fed up of hearing the tributes to Meat Loaf today but his music was a huge part of a lot of folks lives, mine included. Secondly I stood by the roadside as a hearse carrying the coffin of a pal from schooldays went by on his final journey. Keith was 6 months younger than me and diagnosed with liver cancer about a year ago. My feeling of grief will be nothing compared to the families of these two gentlemen. Times like this I start pondering my own mortality and hope that I have a wee bit more time to enjoy before I shuffle off this mortal coil. So tonight I've raised a glass or two to two absolute gentlemen who were a big part of my youth and beyond. Keith and Meat, keep on rocking! 🍻

Hi all chris here, always been a ford fan grew up with my dad having them, currently on with mk3 mondeos, but just managed to get my hands on a very uncommon 88 plate granada scorpio 2.9 V6 4x4

The variable cam timing is controlled by oil pressure. When revs are low it's probably ok. When you attempt higher revs/load, the lack of oil pressure doesn't allow the timing to change, the ECU notices that and drops into limp mode as a safety feature. Once codes are cleared, it'll be ok until you attempt high revs again. This would suggest that the oil pump gauze is partially blocked to me. At the very least I'd give it an oil change immediately. If the problem persists it'll need the sump removing to have a proper look. Honestly, it's not worth fixing imo. Shift in on and buy something else...if it's something 10 years old then not another 1.0EB! The SS light illuminating means the SS is unavailable due to malfunction/limp mode.

Temporarily returning this thread to the original topic, the location for a negative pole, @wino was correct in suggesting such a pole exists in a convenient location. I finally got around to getting under the bonnet again early this morning (brr) and laughed when I saw how obvious it was... Croc clips appear to be quick & easy at least... Charging time was < 3 hours to get to the green "done" light at just above freezing temperatures. Now I need to see if stop/start comes to life...

Hello, I have a 2012 1.0 Ecoboost. The oil light start flickering over a week ago and driving down the A19 the Engine Malfunction warning came on and had to be recovered on a flat bed due to not being back to get over 1000 revs. I took it to my mechanic who tried to fix it with no joy. I was advised to take it to Ford for a diagnostic. I took it in 2 days ago and they have rang me today to say that they are replacing the engine free of charge under the Ecoboost Campaign. My car wasn't part of the recall therefore was never advised of the issue. So looks like they are now replacing the engines again.

It certainly feels like it’s picking up more quickly now. I also turned the fake engine sound off via FORScan so I could hear what it sounds like without any digital enhancement. It sounds excellent now, lots of induction and turbo noises, very addictive to keep planting the foot!

I’ve found a large tear in the lower turbo pipe. I wrapped masking tape around it and drove it and it was like driving a different car, the fault code cleared too. I’ve ordered a new hose but not sure how easy it’ll be to replace myself, I think I can get more access if I take out the headlight.

I feel so vindicated after further government revelations in them breaking 'covid'; rules... Their mantra that they were 'following the science' was always a nonsense, and I have been saying so on here for well over a year. Some of the highlights include:- Can sit down at a restaurant table with no mask, but stand up, and legally you have to wear one – following the science Couldn’t buy a drink in a pub, but order a Scotch egg with your drink, all fine – following the science Could drink in a pub till 10pm, but at 10.01, you had to leave – following the science Could travel 10 miles from home, but 11 was illegal – following the science Limiting hospital visits to one hour/week, despite patient, visitor & all medical staff being double jabbed – following the science You could not visit a card shop, but you could happily wander round a supermarket that sold cards – following the science The introduction of ‘covid passports’ for certain circumstances/events despite the fact that proving your vaccination status is useless as you can still pass on virus despite being double jabbed – following the science Recommending that businesses spend £Millions on Perspex screening internally on buildings (not only ineffective, but detrimental as recent reports prove all they do is create pockets of stale air where the virus can fester!) – following the science A ban on singing, mingling & dancing in groups more than 6 – following the science I await the public inquiry where it will state that there was no 'science' in making the general public wear flimsy face coverings, but it did fulfill political theater where the government felt they had to be seen to do something. The House of Cards is tumbling fast...

That's the key though. Proper servicing, no engine flush and driven. And don't leave an ecoboost to stand for weeks on end without being driven unless the engine gets proper hot drive to get condensation from oil evaporated. Otherwise the engine oil sludges up and blocks strainer. Buying a car that's been stood on a forecourt for weeks is a recipe for disaster later on.

Well all sorted now. I opted for a brand new unit, not a reconditioned unit or a remanufactured part. Spoke to nice old fella in my nearest electro diesel firm, showed me mine on test bed, stator winding was open circuit. Explained that at that age, they supply a lot of alternators with stator winding fault - especially on fords. I purchased a brand new bosch unit, 2 years warranty, new slip pulley fitted - any problems i can just go back there. Mail order put me off, couriers, risk of damage, and whatever else made my mind up as well as needing the car back on the road asap. The supplier unofix suggested was very helpful but wasn't clear if it was new or a recon as well as a 2 week wait - so not an option. New alternator was..... £160. my loss if i didn't have the car to go to work is £110 a day and i aint a gambler.... Didn't have time to video the strip down and refit but here's a rough description....( I AM NOT A MECHANIC, but i am an electrical fitter / wireman ) 2005 1.4tdci with aircon jack up car, drivers wheel off 17mm x 4, remove belt cover at far side of arch with two torx screws, bonnet up, remove drivers side head lamp with 3 torx screws, remove aux drive belt with 15mm spanner down towards you on tensioner, remove idler pulley on lower alternator mount 13mm, top bolt alternator is 15mm i think, alternator is now secured on rhs with two 16mm upper and lower - dont remove these yet, but do remove control plug and + cable terminal from alternator 13mm. next from under side remove aircon pump bolts 13mm x 4, and pull away from block, pipes are quite stiff so it doesnt harm to let it hang there, if in doubt bungee loop it from above. next remove alternator rhs lower 16mm bolt (from below), it's horrible to get into and only half of the bolt head is showing so use a good quality spanner - you cannot get a socket in there ! next is top bolt 16mm remove from above and its as bad to get at as the oil dipstick is right next to it, again its tight... but possible. alternator is now free and negotiatiate it downwards to remove, dibbling, shuffling to get out moving the air con pump as you go. fitting is reversal of the above, but dont forget the idler is on the bottom of alternator mount not the top ! yep i did that on refitting ! ..... I found it awkward to refit the aux belt, (i used the old one as i had it replaced when cam belt was done 3k ago) but heres how i did it... fit belt as per the service manual diagram but not on the idler (i had several attempts) then with 15mm spanner on idler fit a steel tube over the spanner for extra leverage, and slip the belt over the bottom of the idler - this took me 30 minutes to realise ! ensure it is correctly aligned in the grooves on all pulleys. Thats it really, i reckon i could remove one now and refit in 1 hour, i did mine wearing my fenix headlamp, in the cold and it was raining - it always rains as i remove the tool chest from the lock up.... Check voltage at alternator or battery and it should be 14.4v or there abouts. https://youtu.be/nSA-SLR8JcQ lads at worked asked me what i was up to at weekend - i explained the job and the price of part relating to the age of the car, one said "scrap it and get another" and i replied " when your dog goes to the vets and needs a minor op and you are quoted £600 - have it put to sleep and get another dog" ? the look of disgust on his face was a joy to see. Hope this helps anyone with same issue, and thanks to the other forum members who took the time to read & comment on the thread. Never give up, this did look a daunting nightmare of a job, but taking a modular logical approach, it was easily achieved , albeit very awkward.... what's next i ask myself?...

You can get two months or so for free on the ForScan site, otherwise it’s less than a tenner for a year. Considering how good the program is, I think it’s worth it

Just get it serviced. Personally I think 2 years or 18k miles is too long to wait for any service, especially if it's the 1.0L ecoboost you have.

I've just started a new thread on the FORScan forum to see if we can shed any light on this.

This thread is a real eye opener! How to charge the battery on a nearly new ca??. Something I do every couple of months on mine, BUT it's 16 years old. Mehhh... you can keep 'new' cars, seem more trouble than they're worth 🤣

It's for the Knight Industries 2000 light option

There’s 36 NHS managers on £250 000 a year.I don’t think we are getting value for money some how.

You forgot to mention the AM radio LOL

You do realise this thread is 12 years old now? LOL Welcome to the forum...

Turn the stereo up to maximum and open the windows ?

Now that Covid is calming down, a real issue is now rising fast, and is effecting everyone. The cost of energy is now exposing the weakness in our governments 'green' policy. It's reluctance to allow investment in fracking, and nuclear development will head us into a bigger crisis than a virus ever did. (It could cut the price instantly by dropping 5% VAT and the 25% 'green tax'!) Yesterday, it was headline news in the Belfast Telegraph when Tesco announced they would introduce 2 (yes, 2) charging points at one of their supermarkets. I genuinely don't believe that those in power have the intellectual capacity to realise the huge asteroid of disaster heading right for us. The 'green' policy now being zealously followed by government takes no account for the fact that if the UK, overnight, achieved 'net zero' by tomorrow, it would have that exact result on global warming - zero! Just like Covid, when those with simple common sense saying over & over again that lockdowns were ineffectual, masks for general public use didn't work, and eating a scotch egg with your pint, were NOT following the science The same modelling techniques for global warming are being used as with covid, where 'experts' said there could be 10,000 deaths/week, worst case scenario, and now with global warming, the planet will end in 10 years! I am NOT denying global warming, but I am absolutely denying it is an 'emergency'. (Kinda like going to A&E when you should be attending your GP) Common sense needs to prevail, and quickly. If everyone went electric, we don't even have the capacity to watch Corrie, and charge our cars at the same time! I know I'll have loads of detractors, just like I did when I expressed 'common sense' opinions on Covid, but this madness has to stop now before the poor in our country start dying of hypothermia in their own homes...

Torque is measured at the engine for book figures, not at the wheels, so the gearbox doesn't change it with identical engines. In some cases the torque is electronically restricted in the PCM to save wrecking the gearbox where one is weaker than the other. But generally that will reduce the BHP figure as well.

I haven't checked this with your make and model year but If you get set up with FORScan there are normally PID's that tell you what triggered the Alarm the last 4 times and you can check the status if all the openings to see if they are showing as open when they are closed. There is no fuse that you can pull.

Back to standard wheels for the winter tyres now. Quick night shot after a good clean 😁

It blows my mind that every time I see Manchester folk on TV they speak as if Andy Burnham is the next messiah! As the saying goes, the only thing that makes evil men succeed is for good people to do nothing. Have signed the petition in the hope that the Muppetts that run my area don't get stupid ideas...

Tom, my understanding is that 'private' companies immediately buy up huge blocks of numbers on release. (elite, paltesforcars, etc). May be worth searching some of their sites for something suitable. Personally, I have had the same plate since 1984 and have transferred it onto every car I've had since. Indeed, it literally found an old friend some years ago where he recognised my 'plate' but not the car, and left a note on the windscreen where we subsequently got back in touch! Who needs facebook LOL

In this case it is highly recommended to check the crankshaft/camshafts timing first. This however is a 3 to 4 hour job. Checking the crankshaft/camshafts timing requires the rocker cover to be removed. Removing the rocker cover requires the ignition coils, induction hardpipe, induction hoses, high pressure fuel pump, fuel line, injector fuel rail, injector wiring harness, vacuum lines, crankcase ventilation hoses, etc. to be removed. Once the rocker cover is removed the plug that covers the timing hole inside the crankcase must be removed and the crankshaft timing pin (303-1604) must be installed. Now rotate the crankshaft clockwise until it is blocked by the crankshaft timing pin. Now check the following things: 1: Crankshaft pulley. The timing hole inside the crankshaft pully should be in line with the timing hole of the engine block. This can easily be checked by inserting the crankshaft timing pin (303-732). If the holes are not in line the crankshaft pulley is not installed correctly. 2: Camshaft timing. Both crankshafts have a machined square that is used to set the timing. Remove the TI-VCT actuators and installI the TI-VCT pulley locking tools (303-1606) The locking tool prevents the pulleys from moving. Next install the camshaft alignment tools (303-1605) onto the cylinder head. The alignment tools should easily fit onto the machined square without any force. If the alignment tools do not fit at all or force is required to fit the alignment tools the camshaft timing is not correct. If the timing is not correct it can be corrected by removing and reinstalling the crankshaft pulley. This however requires quite some special tools like for example the torque multiplier (303-1611), torque multiplier adapters (303-1611-1 and 303-1611-2) and the crankshaft locking tool (303-1602). Changing the wetbelts on a 1.0 ECOboost is not rocket science but without all special tools it is very dificult to perform this job correctly. Since the special tools that are required to perform this job are quite expensive (especially the torque multiplier) there are very few independent garages that have these special tools. Many that try to perform this job without the special tools fail ! It is also important to know whether they changed only the main wetbelt or also the oil pump wetbelt. Changing the oil pump wetbelt is a considerable amount of work because the sump also needs to be removed but not changing the oil pump wetbelt while changing the main wetbelt is extremey stupid. Since the oil pump wetbelt is installed behind the main wetbelt on the crankshaft the oil pump wetbelt can only be replaced if the main wetbelt is removed. If in any doubt it is highly recommended to have the wetbelts changed again by a Ford dealer or specialist who generally are experienced in performing this job.

We have noticed!

I say that at long last, and after 4 months of me arguing the same, heard an 'expert' on the radio today, a Dr Clive Dix, who was advocating that we stop this mass hysterical testing immediately, and all the associated isolations! I do hope the blonde buffoon was listening! All the 'vulnerable' have now been multiple jabbed - we can do no more if we must, 'learn to live with it...'

‘Aftermarket’ warranty’s are not worth the paper they are written on.There are always conditions attached,always.A lot of the time they will knock you back on things,or not cover the full cost(fact).Be very very cautious when purchasing one of these.Do your research on any one you are interested in.They also can be quite expensive,you have to way up the cost benefit & is it worthwhile.

Hello Aurélio, you "Win" this years prize for answering the oldest thread. The OP has only been waiting 9 years for someone to reply.

Hi all, and a happy new year to you all. This is merely an update to my woes that I suffered regarding my injector issue. As from the update on the 14/12/21 I can confirm that there is still no errors so it appears after all the injectors were replaced, a module reset is needed as the injectors do not need recoding. It seems the module will relearn in place of no injector factors being entered, if that makes sense. I'm still holding my breath but still.. fingers crossed that's it. Just wanted to end my discussions here as it's always irked me that threads tend to end without last comment. Many thanks to you all, esp tdci Peter for your help. Hopefully the next time I post here will be to help others HNY

Very True. What I would say is given the number of people just on this forum who have had their battery placed (sometimes more than once) in under 18 months, the current system of charging seems to have a fatal flaw !! Yes I think that is very probably the case. The only thing to do to improve the situation would be fully charge the battery, and change the SOC to 95% and just as an extra measure also reset the BMS (probably not needed). Then as you say the alternator will let the battery charge fall back to 95% and then maintain it there.

Charging a battery fully will enable stop start if battery was low soc. But as soon as you drive off the alternator will not charge battery at all until battery discharges back in the 68-80 soc range. So pretty pointless fully charging really. Because the way the charging/ discharging at the 68-80 range operates the battery sulphates up and then the battery gets a full charge to 100% with higher than normal charging voltage. All this increases the longevity of flooded/AGM batteries. Changing soc in forscan may or may not change the longevity of the battery. Just to add I'm no expert in the technicalities of exactly how or why.

I missed today but get to watch on catch up. As an apprentice back in the late 70's the company I worked for used to take us to the 'Faraday Lectures' in Newcastle which I loved. I don't know if they are still going, I would like to think they are.

Doh !! missed that ...... should have read back to the start of the post.

Banjo a euphemism for what? Or am I reading this all wrong??

I really love it when a girl calls you up at 3am on video chat Christmas morning playing her Banjo 😲😬😮

I own both at the moment, but the problem is with my focus hence why I posted here. Not sure what to say regarding Stephen's reply... seems the egg nog is well and truly blowing, um I mean flowing. Happy Christmas

Only if the car is pre-2020. Any newer cars with sleepy fobs only transmit when they're being moved which should make the batteries last longer...

I know several people that have had entire Fiestas stolen... I don't know anyone that's had fuel syphoned! Suppose it might be location dependent though. As for pouring stuff in there, you can't do it unless you carry the shewee funnel... In the early days of EasyFuel the forum was full of threads about fuel additives pouring straight into the floor... EasyFuel is one of (very few!!) Ford specific things that I actually like. I do miss it on VAG cars.