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It has finally arrived!

Some very basic pics. Focus st line vignale in race red

Picked her up from the detailer on Wednesday 😍 Unfortunately the weather was pretty awful on Wednesday, and the constant rain/spray on the motorway home wasn't pleasant! I'll wash her next weekend (advised to leave 1 week for ceramic to fully cure) and see just how good she comes up 🤩 but first impressions... well... the picture DOES NOT do it justice!

I could have done with that advice before I replaced mine! On removing the RHS strut, boot fell down on my head, jamming the old strut in the process, breaking the RHS light cluster. When people say, 'a fool can do it', they haven't actually met me

I do like a bargain! Was in Lidl earlier and was in right place, right time for my favourite food. Got £84 of Smoked Salmon (200g packs not 100g) for just over £8! I love 'dated food'... LOL

I’m off to collect my stline vignale in 8 hours really can’t wait been 13 months since order date, I’ll post a pic when it’s in my possession

It genuinely does last the life of the engine !! Once it fails the engine is 100% dead, so you can't say it didn't last 🤣

Had a phone call from UKCRC1 this morning about delivery of my car to tell me they had no information on when my car would be delivered from Dagenham.This afternoon I had a phone call from my dealer to say my car had just arrived at the dealership. Will be over there to see it and check it out tomorrow. If you have been following my threads you will have notice I had some problems with it. Ordered 29/04/2022, had two delayed build dates and finally built 24/11/2022. Next problem was checking VIN No. with ETIS it said it was fitted with a diesel engine. This was changed a couple of weeks later on ETIS to the correct engine. Next came the delivery date of 14/12/2022 which was cancelled due to bad weather in London. If all goes well tomorrow would hope to pick it up next week. The following week it will be off to get a ceramic coating applied. The car itself is a Titanium X 1.0L ecoboost automatic, chrome blue with Spare wheel, Sync3.4 with navigation, driver assist pack and parking pack. I shall continue to monitor this forum with interest but hopefully not post so many questions as being into my eighties I expect this will be my last car till I am smoke going up the chimney. John

Hi all, Thought I'd add some thoughts after 1044 miles. B&O. Wow its amazing, but was slightly frustrated by a rattle coming from the b pillar. Today it'd gone, so maybe now it's a little warmer, or the fact I asked the Mrs to prod around in that area earlier, it's seems to have gone. It's absolutely ace I must say. Matrix lights are a must have. Proper clever. Like sausage said to me, it transforms the night time driving experience. Averaged 50 mpg today over 140 miles from the 155 petrol. Well enough shove for us non st owners. Not on the level of the monster St of course, but great for a 1.0l. Android auto wireless. Have had a few issues actually. Kept disconnecting on a journey to London, and I keep getting a lost GPS connection issue, but I'm convinced its my phone. Have updated it so let's see. Chassis is ace. And I must say the difference between drive modes is quite noticeable. Sport mode makes the steering and throttle response such that the car feels a little wired. I.e. jittery, sensitive. Which is good for b roads, and if it gets on your nerves, you can just pop it back in normal which is much more refined.. so it's good to have that option to transform the car so much. Still waiting to get the sunroof open, but it doesn't seem to rattle or add any squeaks or such. In fact the whole car just feels so well put together. In summary > I think she's a keeper

😂 wish I never asked now. Thank you for letting me know that was the problem.

LONG LIVE THE 70'S!!!

The fact that Ford considers the bottom end to be unserviceable and does not supply internal parts and service data does not mean that these engines can not be rebuild. Both standard and oversize main and bigend bearings are easily available from third party suppliers. If the bigend bearing is the only problem you can probably get away with regrinding the crankshaft and installing an oversized bearing. The crankshaft can be removed from the bottom and there is basically no need to remove the engine from the car. Since the wetbelt needs to be removed it also needs to be replaced. A defective bigend bearing on itself is definitely not a known issue on a 1.0 ECOboost. Lack of lubrication caused by the oil pump strainer being blocked with wetbelt debris however is a well known problem. If this is the cause of the defective bigend bearing there will be much more damage and excessive wear.

Yup it really is! Thanks! 😁 I was very torn over the colour when I ordered, having only ever owned a blue car. And also, fords performance focus doesn't come in ford performance blue? What's that all about? But I definitely feel like it's the right colour! Everyone comments on how awesome it looks 😎 I did manage to also take a cracking shot the other week in the winter sun one morning which really shows how amazing the paint is! I'm really excited to wash her myself now and start getting all my detailer products on top of the ceramic 😍

Thai uses different words if spoken by a woman than those spoken by a man but Herdoo is the work of a Scouse barber.

A 5 door front door will fit in the 3 door space without a problem. 👍 Here someone has already done it:

Therapy is available, and after only a dozen sessions you could be ready for radio 4 🤣

Well good news for you Stephen, I've finally sorted it out! After a couple of weeks when it was far too cold to sit outside investigating speakers, the weather warmed up and I took the doors apart to see what was going on. Both rear speakers weren't working, but connecting a regular hi-fi speaker to each in turn showed that the wiring was fine and it was just the speakers that were the problem. How they both fail at the same time I don't know, but they had. So some googling and you-tubing later I found that I could buy a set of Pioneer speakers for £25 (model TS-G1710F), rip out the centre of the old speakers WITHOUT having to drill the speaker mounts out, and just screw the new speakers into the existing mounts. The speakers turned up a few days ago and are now installed and working. Doors are reassembled (a couple of clips snapped on one of them but I screwed those back together too) so job done! I'm not a hi-fi connoisseur and I'm sure more expensive speakers would be better, but I can listen to music again in the car without it sounding like a 1970s transistor, so good enough for me. Thanks to those who provided advice.

NO ! The battery monitoring system is only ever intended to be reset when a new battery has been installed. The inoperative keyless entry is caused by the car deliberately turning off the function because the state of battery charge is 70% or less. Charge the battery overnight to ensure that it has a charge of 80% or more. Ideally 95% or better. Then in order to get the keyless system operating again, take the car on a short 15 minute drive and it will reactivate. Resetting the BMS serves to do only two things. One it resets the 'Days In Service' counter so that the age of the battery can be determined. Two when used incorrectly it erases the stored information regarding the SOC. This causes the Body Control Module to reactivate everything it switched off because of the low state of battery charge.

Yes. If you don't know what you're doing . don't do it. A 2014 Fiesta Studio is what it is. A good and basic little car. Save up for a year, don't meddle with it or chuck money at it(Most of the things it lacks you will need hardware to enable, as well as Forscan.) Forscan can be used to code in accessories in cars that have the basic infrastructure to allow them to be wired in and programmed. Key to this is a box called the BCM or Body Control Module. Titanium and Titanium X cars have a lot more stuff programmed into this box by default but changing it and then geting basic things like the locks and immobiliser to work are not nursery slope stuff. It is your car and your money and I am really the last person to tell you not to hack in and modify it but in this case, I very much doubt if it would be worthwhile or that you would learn anything of use to you. Where Forscan is most commonly used is to diagnose faults but again, I know of many people who have gone looking for trouble and found it. there's a lot said for if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Buy a Dongle, download the free version of Forscan which is look but don't touch and you will be able to learn a bit without ***** up the car. When you can afford a better one, you can start programming in any black boxes you don't have. Realistically, this isn't going to be your car for life and it is likely to be good and reliable, if unspectacular. It is still a much better car than its contemporaries. Look forward to a better one and keep this one in good nick. People buy the shine on cars this old, not the gadgets, which they distrust. Use that tip to your avantage.

I never log out. Suppose it leaves me vulnerable to hacking. So if you ever see a load of spam from my account...actually, nevermind.

The MK3/MK3.5 instrument cluster is not even on the same speed CANbus network as the MK2/MK2.5 instrument cluster. The MK3/MK3.5 instrument cluster communicates over the MS (Mid Speed) CANbus network while the The MK2/MK2.5 instrument cluster communicates over the HS (High Speed) CANbus network. The module ID's and CANbus messages are also different. Apart from incompatible CANbus communication the MK2/MK2.5 instrument cluster is an integral part of the PATS immobilizer system while the MK3/MK3.5 instrument cluster is not. There are ways to make it work. For example by designing / developing and building a MK2/MK2.5 HS CANbus <- -> MK3/MK3.5 MS CANbus converter. Communication needs to be converted both ways and the converter requires to emulate the immobilizer part. This is definitely possible but both the hardware and software part requires skills, knowledge and especially loads of time. Obtaining all relevant CANbus ID's and messages and converting the (hexadecimal) data into readable data can easily take Months.

and that's on a good day with everything going to plan. Add in a few seized up rusty bolts or a snapped stud and you can easy add an hour.

I'm not getting my kit off with you, especially in this freezing weather! 🤣

Oh my god. I was a 70/80s child and remember them then. Health and safety, what’s that? Kids parks climbing frames and slides had concrete under them and if u fell, well you either bounced or not. Rocking horse, many time I trapped my fingers. Roundabout was see how fast we can go before we slid off. I remember going home with cuts and bruises and then getting shouted at for ripping my clothes, or you will not do that again, but you always did. God love them days, climbing trees and all sorts. Care free lol oh and back to topic. -4.5 last night and no frozen jets. I use either Tescos own windscreen fluid or AutoGlym. The AutoGlym stuff is amazing and been great at -10 as long it’s mixed correctly.

Fun fact, car door latches nowadays are actually silent. The 'clunk' is added by design as people assume the door hasn't shut properly without hearing it.

I confirm Alex is correct about the standing battery voltage. A 12volt car battery is made up of 6 cells, each one when made measures 2.1V This is always the case for batteries that are based on lead, acid technology. When the cells are assembled in to a battery pack the resulting voltage is 6 x 2.1 = 12.6V In order to charge a 12.6V battery the charging voltage has to be high enough to overcome the internal resistance of the battery and allow a current to flow. This typically happens at 13.0V and a small current will be drawn by the battery from the charging supply. If the charging voltage is increased, for example to 14.5V the potential difference between the battery and charging supply will cause the battery to draw more current as it tries to match the charging voltage. Once the charging voltage is removed from the battery the initial terminal voltage will for a few minutes remain at around 14.0 V This is not a true voltage and even just the slightest of loads will cause the battery to very quickly to drop to around 12.6V where it will stabilise. If the battery is left disconnected from any kind of load the terminal voltage will slowly over a few days decay to 12.4V and eventually 12.2V. This is caused by the internal current leakage of the battery and is true for all batteries (different voltages apply). To test the state of a 12V car battery the terminal voltage should be measured 1 hour after charging has stopped. Depending on whether the battery is under any kind of load or not will affect the standing voltage but it should be between 12.20 and 12.65V Apologies for the long explanation, but I hope it helps.

So literally had call car is with dealer but not at our collection site yet but collection arranged for next week

Have you checked the pads. Ford dealer told me mine urgently needed replacing at 22,000 miles and really tried hard to persuade me. I knew it was a lie as I checked them before I took it in. At 50,000 miles the pads still had a fair bit on them. Do not take anyones word for it. Only replace if you have verified with your own eyes.

Solved with 70% alcohol and now it looks better, thanks 🙂

Yeah, always used the right oil and had it serviced to schedule (I've had it 8 years, the first two years were serviced by Ford). As I say, I had a chat with the mechanic when I picked it up, he said the condition wasn't too bad. Most of the wear was on the top of the belt, you could see the compound had started to degrade and that all gets caught up in the oil pick up and ultimately starves the engine of oil. If it helps at all (I assume you're wondering whether to get this done) I mulled it over and came to the conclusion I wanted to keep the car for another few years. This was in part due to the craziness of the second hand car market but also the car itself. It's given me very little trouble in 8 years of ownership (in that regard it's been the best car I've owned) but it also feels solid, the clutch and gearbox feel good, ride is smooth, no banging or knocking anywhere and it still pulls well. If it does me another two or three years without anything major going on it I won't mind about forking out for the cambelt.

Normally faulty tailgate button, very common

For reference, alloy wheels can't rust, there's no iron in them. If they've got a brown coating inside, that's just a layer of rust powder from the brake disc that will wash off. Alloys can corrode and create aluminium oxide which is white & powdery. If this happens underneath the paint, it creates a bubble in the paint, as shown in your ebay wheel above. I certainly wouldn't be paying £70 for a bubbly wheel in the wrong design myself. But it's your choice at the end of the day. Do you have any breakers yards locally? They often have piles of alloys for sale near the front. That way you can see exactly what you're buying and collect it without additional postage. Lastly, you should have a look at the back of the wheel, but you're checking for dents, bends or cracks in the rim, not the colour.

If anyone else is looking to get this done I ended up using North West Engines, Ford wanted 2k for what they did for "just" 800: Both wet belts Water pump Oil Filters Cleaned oil pick up They seem like a really good bunch. Sent me photos of the engine in bits with the old belt on and another with the new one on. When I went to pick it up the mechanic was in the office, he'd kept the old belt which, unfortunately for me I guess, had started to crack but wasn't in too bad condition.

So does mine, which are an original fitment. It picks kerbs up to begin (with a slow bleep). Never gets to a fast, alarming bleep. Then disappears as the bumper moves over the kerb. So I think that's normal behaviour, not a fault.

Ford in Peterborough got the car at 17:00 yesterday. Already had a phone call this morning saying “The master tech (also called Luke) has looked at the drain and suspects you are indeed right and its door. More so the switch inside the car which controls the locking and unlocking above the window switching. We are going to replace the entire module and do further tests.” 3 hours vs 3 months plus. The incompetence is deafening. Should add, Luke refused to look at my email or any previous notes on the car from M53 Ford and wanted to approach the car with fresh eyes.

So I would expect that groups of cars would be the same sort of idea as groups of animals. An Embarrassment of Qushqai A Rusting of Fiats A Retreat of Peugeot A Shame of Lada A Rattle of Land Rover and of course... A Pride of Focus 😀

My current MK4 has the digital dash. It has no engine cover, no Isofix covers, no sunglasses storage, lock buttons on front doors only. On a more exciting note, My ST Line Vignale is getting delivered to my house on Wednesday at 2pm 😍

So chuffed today all, and I thought I'd post this for others suffering b&o speaker rattles, albeit yours might be different, but thought it might be useful. Having heard the rattle with certain songs at vol 20, I thought it was coming from the passenger side seat belt mount area. I tried prodding and pressing various areas around there, and realised a very gentle push on the door card itself where the red reflector is stopped the noise. Pried the door card away slightly today, and placed some 4mm felt in between the door card and the metal of the door. Fixed. No rattles at all now. Chuffed. Hope this helps someone else.

Blimey, I don't know whether to respond or not?? But £600 is way too much The transmission on your car has no drain plug, so you have to remove the sump. But you have to remove the sump to get to the filter anyway. You could do it your self, if you can raise all four corners of the car equally, as it needs to be level but off the ground enough for you to get under. Then buy a filter, the correct amount of the correct fluid and a sump gasket, remove the sump and the fluid, change the filter, refit the sump and fill back up. That should cost you around £50-100 depending on how much the fluid costs. To do a real quick job, you could get a tube pump and suck the fluid out from the level check hole and just replace what you took out, then check level and top up, that will cost you the hire of the pump, plus fluid. Or you can remove the transmission cooler feed pipe from the rad pack (or cooler, whichever you have), start the engine and run until the fluid stops coming out, then replace what came out and top up using the level hole. If you do it your self, the car must be level and the fluid must be warm, replace what you took out, then drive the car for about five minutes to get into every gear and the fluid warm, level the car again and check level and top up as necessary. I hope I wasn't too nasty

I do like that on getting my electricity bill today (wait for it...) there was a line entitled, "Energy Price Guarantee" and a discount applied of 19.91p applied for every KwH! I have celebrated by turning on a toastie oil filled radiator to heat up my living room...

A schoolmate of mine is getting an MBE for services to maritime safety. He's been mechanic on our local lifeboat for 30 odd years.

Surely Stephen you must be getting at least an MBE for service to industry, promoting the Maypole charger 🤣🤣🤣 Maybe the FOC admin will give you a special medal 😀

This car just drove past my house, I actually heard it about 5 minutes before I saw it! Look, my life is pretty boring, so this event was quite exciting for me LOL

50a, had to be enough if the hot tub and car charger were going at the same.

Following might be of interest: https://www.whatcar.com/news/ford-ecoboost-engine-recall-–-what-you-need-to-know/n17972 https://pumaspeed.co.uk/product-Pumaspeed-Bulletproof-16-EcoBoost-Engine-Block_17863.jsp Again for perspective I have owned examples of both (and still have a 1.0) with no issues.

I have a MK3, but that doesn't sound right to me. Maybe seats and carpet are holding some moisture without being damp to the feel. Maybe apply some dehumidifying (wife's hairdryer!) on a warm day and try to drive out any moisture. Also, stop breathing when you're in the car.

As the fluid hasn't been changed regularly, if at all, the solenoids are clogged up, Remove the solenoid body, you have to remove the sump on these to change the filter anyway, remove each solenoid and soak and clean with solvent, fit new filter, refit sump and refill with fresh oil. Ford state sealed for life, but you should, ideally, change the fluid at 40,000 miles

I don't think that replacing parts other than the actual DRL will solve the problem. I'd first check for any poor connections, check that the plug is correctly seated and hasn't got water ingress.

Yeah there’s a lot of caring people in my local town just like you 😁

Yeah I'll still be hanging round these forums despite not having a Ford at the moment. Put about 400 miles on the Mazda so far and it's shaping up to be a really good car. Build quality and interior are excellent.. Still running it in so taking it carefully (says 600 miles in the manual) so not sure how it's going to be performance wise. Think it's needs to be kept on the boil a bit compared to the 140 ecoboost engine but I'm not taking it over 3500rpm yet. So far it's indicating about 50mpg so pretty good for a 2 litre engine and I'm buzzing around towns more at the moment rather than my usual commute. I'm hoping for 55mpg + on my commute and maybe closer to 60mpg when the weathers warmer. Yeah I'm getting panic attacks driving the Mazda at that spot now. It's a dodgy corner as people come flying down the hill too fast into a left hand bend and the road is fairly narrow, they run wide and it doesn't leave a lot of a margin for error.