Leaderboard

God, hate to think that there may be someone else in the world as handsome as me. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Have you not got a magnetic filter in your system? I would totally recommend one, pulls all that stuff out of your pipes and makes it more efficient 😉 This was a week after having ours installed, it had already been cleaned the first day we had it and the second and then left for 5 days.

Things to do with an old washing machine after @Lennys destruction 😃

I don't like that you can't refer to someone as "male" or "female" anymore without being accused of "hate speech"!! I've decided from now on I will refer to people as "it", then I can't go wrong surely? Despite being a staunch Christian, I think of myself as quite tolerant and can accept most things (even if I don't agree with them), but this just doesn't make sense... Maybe I'll have to take a degree in stupidity to understand it!!

Depending on engine and emmisions standard, it can be just timed or if diesel with dpf, it can be based on the frequency of dpf regens and drive style ( short journeys) which dilutes the oil which then can require earlier oil changes regardless of service interval. The oil change message should be regarded as exactly that, oil change. Then the message / light should be reset. There's been a ford few issues regarding oil dilution that I won't go into . So never ignore the oil change warning message or reset it and carry on.

Lol, just wait until the next 30 odd have slipped away, then you'll worry (like me!) 😱

The 1.8TDCi doesn't have a 'rail' as such, it's actually the 'spider' shaped thing on the front of the engine. The pressure sensor is screwed into that, can't miss it! Edit - @iantt Beat me to it! 2nd edit - It's probably worth saying that the reason it shouldn't be removed is because it's post fuel filter...any dirt, dust or grit you introduce there will end up in the injector(s) so it's imperative that everything is spotlessly clean around there before removing and refitting.

Officially it shouldn't be removed . Ford don't supply the sensor separately. It's part of the fuel rail spider. But I believe they can be bought separately on eBay Just follow an injector pipe to find the sensor

Years ago I fitted Poly bushes throughout my old MKII Escort RS2000, worst idea in the world, made the ride so harsh and felt every bump, after 6 months I ditched all of the poly bushes and refitted rubber bushes, the joy of a smoother ride was great.

UPDATE... Hi All, I thought I would just give an update on the noisy engine sound that I demonstrated on my YouTube clip incase anyone else has this issue. Today Ford carried out their inspection and were unable to come up with a reason for why it is louder than they would expect. They reported no error codes but suggested that it could be related to the fuel injectors. They did report carbon build up around the turbo, but couldn't find a problem with it and there wasn't enough gases been released to have it fail it's MOT (which also took place today) - personally I think the carbon build up was down to the old DPF which I replaced a few months ago. To their credit they haven't charged me for the inspection! I carried out an oil analysis on my previous oil that was used for just under 7000 miles. The company reported high silicon (18 PPM) and aluminium (37 PPM) so I guess something inside is wearing...? I think I will go ahead and perform a test on the fuel injectors to see what they are like. Is there a PID on FORScan to monitor them or is it a mechanical test I will need to perform? Cheers, Stophen.

I just saw a local Facebook post and couldn't resist replying. "Looking for a placement for work experience in the plumbing field... would anybody know who would take someone on?" I replied "I heard a local farmer was planting leeks in his field, maybe contact him? " I'm awaiting a reaction. Lol

I've just driven past this and had to do a double take... We definitely have some talented farmers! (Pic stolen from local FB page)

its due to post xmas party blues ,long wait till next payday, and its a monday anyway. ive not sucomed to the blues, my cunning plan not to enjoy xmas paid off afterall.🤣🤣😂😂

not an oil dilution sensor but basically a calucation that ford have used in the pcm. the 1.5 needs more regens than other engines. thats why the service intervals are only 10k, thats asuming it makes it that far before oil chane message comes up, often they could only get around 5k , then a pcm software was released to reduce regens required and lenghten the oil change also you will notice the 10k service is oil change and not filter.

I’m actually in quite a good mood today! Decent song as well 👌

Perhaps you can also remember having to bang the side pillar to make the semaphores lift and sometimes again to make them drop.

Just me or do others hate the fact that 'photofuckit' have destroyed a whole internets worth of really informative threads!!

If you're trying to get a proper DTC, you need to plug into the obd2 port. The dash readouts a pretty useless.

Hi peeps. I haven’t updated in a while because I wanted to make sure I have given my dpf enough of a workout to see if the washout was a washout ( see what I did there) anyway, I took the dpf out and gave it a good washing out with the hose. The water was filthy but I kept shaking it etc until the water ran clear. I done this during a few hot summer days so I could be as sure as I could it was dried out properly as I don’t want to risk any ash turning to cement. I also topped up the fluid for it and refitted it. Touch wood, the car has been going great ever since. I hope I don’t have all the faults pop up as I see in the last reply but so far, I couldn’t be happier with the results. Only thing I can add, if you are like me and need a manual to even change a bulb, don’t follow the instruction manual to remove your dpf. The first time I removed it, the manual steps had me removing the radiator etc to get the dpf out. You can get it out without doing that. You just need the car high enough for it to come out from underneath. Thankfully I have a mate who loaned me his ramps. So 🤞 I don’t have to come back here with bad news but hopefully this info will help some other poor bugger with the same problem.

Age is such a funny thing though... I'm not even 30 yet (still 'late 20s') but really related to this meme last week! I wonder if it ever stops though? Like does BobR still consider people like you and Del as young whippersnappers and do you consider people in thier 80s to be more 'adult' than yourself?

I would suggest there's definitely something wrong if you haven't got enough space under there using jack stands so yeah possibly a new jack is in order. I personally prefer ramps for servicing - much less hassle and bought some high grade plastic ones from amazon (about £60iirc). They've been good but I ALWAYS place jack stands underneath and choc the wheels just in case they failed. Can't bring myself to fully trust them !

and me😮

Windscreen covers in Aldi this week 😅 https://www.aldi.co.uk/auto-xs-car-windscreen-cover/p/098962318682500 Even got one with a polar bear on it possibly get cheaper insurance as it may be somewhat of a deterrent 😅 https://www.aldi.co.uk/bear-auto-xs-car-windscreen-cover/p/098962322252401

They are awful if you've been used to separates previously! I wouldn't chose a combi if space wasn't limited lol! Mines getting on for 5 years old now though and is still just as bad as the day I bought it tbf. What make is yours out of interest? Also...remember I waited ages for a new oven....yeah, that's utter rubbish as well! How hard can it be to make an oven ffs!? This is the 3rd bad one and they've all been brand new! All the heat comes out of the top of the door on this one, along with steam and condensation it's blowing grease up the cupboard doors either side as well...fantastic! I know the oven in the next flat will be new but don't know what make yet...I really hope it isn't the same as these lol!!

Honestly my washer dryer is nearly new and is awful lol. I think setting it on fire is my preferred option right now haha 😂

Even better @TomsFocus could park his car just below his window and bucket down water onto the windscreen 😂

cheers guys for all your help, I've been up today and been pumping away and got it to start and rev again as previous. Unfortunatly it still does not want to set of so I'm gonna have to drag it's butt to a garage I think and see what they say...

that's not a bad idea 👍

It is all I can do, I can not think of any definite answer that you have not already tried! I have had a lot of problems with my EGR, starting in 2012. It put the MIL on, and gave error codes like P0490, Circuit High. It sounded like an electrical problem, and it was. The Mk2 has a fully electric EGR actuator: motor & feedback pot. I blanked it off when it gave problems, and tried repairing the actuator a few times. It worked for a few months usually, then played up & I re-blanked it. Ford do not supply the actuator, and like the Mk1, the valve is built into the inlet manifold, a pig of a job. But the actuator part is easy to remove. So I had to wait for an enterprising Chinese company to spot the market, and make them. Finally in 2018, the price of a new replacement actuator came down to under £50, so I fitted it, and it has been fine since. The ECU seems to prefer having the EGR working & unblanked, and I think fuel economy has improved slightly. From data logs, I could see the ECU was aware of the blanking, it slammed the valve from full open to full closed while blanked, then with the blank removed, I could see it controlling the valve in mid position while idling and cruising. I fitted an in-car display of valve position (& other stuff like MAP & ECT) during the investigations! If there is any point to this here, it is to show that a working EGR is not as bad as painted, and having it blanked will alter the behavior of the ECU in some way, even if no warning light comes on. That will apply to the Mk1 as much as the Mk2. I regard blanking as a good diagnostic test, and a short term fix for failing EGRs prior to a better repair, as opposed to a long term fix. A Diesel only needs fuel and compression to operate, unlike a petrol engine which also needs ignition. So misfires are rarer. Valve leakage or injector problems can cause misfires on individual cylinders. Fuel pressure dips on a common rail would be much slower, with a significant power drop for a noticeable time, rather than the sharp jerk or vibration of a misfire. The EGR valve and the Turbo vanes/wastegate are the only other likely causes of power dips, I have experienced dips due to the EGR, they are minor, not really noticed by a passenger, but a driver will feel the slight power change that does not match any accelerator movement. It could be a log would show a difference between single firing events, and longer events, but I am not entirely confident of this, the data rate is probably too low and variable. Feel & sound is probably a better guide.

I generally get a big container like a kettle, fill with luke warm water then just pour it over the windscreen. Generally takes the frost off along with the condensation inside. Don't think the heated screen works on mine or it just takes long

Just remembered this tune after reading your post 😅

I do like hatching a genius plan regarding the expected frost again tomorrow... I generally park North facing, meaning the windscreen is the last thing to thaw when the sun comes out... So I'm gonna park the other way later today so it's South facing instead. Of course...this will only work if the sun comes out in the morning...otherwise I'll be out there with the scraper again!

Our five year old son Tadhg got a 16" pedal version scrambler for Christmas from Santa absolutely loves it and has requested that we call him "Steel" when hes on the bike 😂 I'm steadily holding his legs off camera there in the flying image and the bike is on stabilizers

You're spot on with your figures there, fair play. The initial reading when cold was 600kPA rising to approx 22'500kPA when starting, I took the car for a trip and the peak reading I saw was about 144'500kPA. The figures followed closely the accelerator pedal usage, The egr valve on my model has no electrical connectors or sensors whatsoever. I swapped the maf & map today for spares which I had and there was no chance which tbh was to be expected. When idling there is still a vibration coming though the chassis from the engine, so my first plan is to change the mounts to rule that out. I have branded replacements in the shed. I was disappointed that changing the clutch & dmf didn't sort that out. I hadn't thought about damage to the valves etc until you mentioned it and the next logical course of action would be a compression test but I will put my hands up and openly say that I have no experience of doing one and would ahve to book it into my local mechanic to do that. When i changed the turbo, i blanked the egr valve off at both ends. I rmoved the plate closest to the egr valve and replaced it with the metal gasket. I will do the saem at the turbo end just to say that i've done it and to tick it off the list of potential causes. I appreciate your help, keep throwing ideas at me 🙂

Lol 🤣

The other day I was at the recycling point and said "Hi" to the lady from next door who was putting some stuff in the next skip - I recognised her immediately from her face, hairstyle, build, and grey Mini Cooper. When I got home my neighbour was washing her Mini Cooper, the registration of which was one letter different to the one I'd just seen at the recycling point! So everyone has a doppelganger, you just have several. Or your original thought is correct and you've lost your memory........😀

There is no EGR flow sensor on any of the Fords I have looked at, and certainly not on my Mk2 1.8TDCI. The EGR flow is calculated by comparing the MAF reading with a computed engine air flow based on RPM, MAP and Inlet Air Temp (IAT). Since engine air flow includes re-circulated gas and MAF does not, the difference is EGR flow. So there are a lot of potential causes. I would think MAF is suspect no 1, since MAP is compared to turbo operation, and usually gives DTCs if badly out. Minor errors in MAF will not flag a MAF DTC, but may make the EGR seem wrong. But I see MAF has been replaced. That is no 100% guarantee, it is a unit that is hard to calibrate or test, and replacements can be faulty. I guess all hoses & the intercooler have been checked for leaks. It is odd that these engines tolerate blanked EGRs, mine does too. But maybe it is inside their tolerance range, and a faulty MAF has taken it that bit too far. Misfires in a certain RPM range I would put as injector problems, but as these have been changed, MAF is another possibility. I think the Delphi Injectors on the Mk1 require programming to the ECU, I guess this has been done via Forscan if needed. The VDO injectors on the Mk2 need no calibration data entering. Regarding fuel pump problems, Forscan is the best tool. It can monitor the fuel rail pressure during start-up and when running. It should climb very quickly to about 200Bar (20,000kPa) when starting, then the engine will fire up. When running it should follow the accelerator pedal quite closely, peaking at 1500Bar (150,000kPa). Those are figures for my Mk2, I have seen similar figures for a Mk1 though.

Yes, like Gary and Alan I've had the aftermarket sensors and they're not as good as the factory fit version with the visual aid as you're just relying on the change of tone of the beep. Better than nothing though, provided you can get a decent deal on them, £300 is a bit OTT.

You should have the 2 piece nut for your age vehicle.

I'm pretty certain ever washer jet ever and yet to be invented will always leave dribble and spray, every car I've had has done it

Bluefin arrived today in the post. Installation took 15 minutes and the majority of that was plugging it in to a pc after the car and back again (Macs not supported). WOW!!! What a difference. Yep, this is quicker than the standard 1.5 ecoboost right now 😂 Feels like someone just slipped my little 1.0 ecoboost with a load of steroids.

You get that when it's cold it should start if you keep the clutch depressed

It's purely a timed response. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Renault aren't part of PSA and had nothing to do with this engine. The 1.4/1.6 TDCi/HDi was a joint venture between PSA and Ford. It is mostly PSA though, very similar to the old 8v 2.0HDi on EDC15 management that came in the late 90s Peugeot's. It's also used in Volvo's, Minis and Suzukis but not Renault's. Even the 1.5DCi in Renault's of a similar age is totally different. It was a very modern engine when it first came out around 2004, very lightweight and with ultra low emmisions...and also a lot of teething troubles!

Sure you can turbo it, but it will cost you about as much as what you paid for the car in the first place. Alternatively sell yours and buy a 1.0L ecoboost. Only a couple grand more, but will have about as much power as what you'd get out of turboing yours. You really can't get much power out of the 1.25 without spending serious money on it. Remaps won't get you more than about 10hp increase (even then you'll struggle to notice it).

You're all underestimating my levels of apathy first thing in the morning... I've parked the other way so hopefully the sun will have done all the work for me time I leave!

They will fit but should be 195 50 15. Speedo will be slightly out but they shouldn't rub unless it's lowered.

lol. I'm fed up tarting up the focus now. It's right done me head in. Think am just gonna let it continue to rust to bits, that seems to be happening all over the place too. Am sure it will add a nice patina effect and give it a rustic Mad-Max look 😎 I might look into some gret bull bars or sommat. Had an affair with a married woman last year, she has 11 plate focus and almost every panel has rust on it now, mine's gonna go same way, but I do wash the bugger 😏 Cycling season soon be ere, I'll dig out me Raleigh Banana and get that ready for summer instead, least that will keep me outta trouble lol.

I was cautious after reading an online review that didn’t make it sound too good. https://www.evo.co.uk/ford/focus/7182/ford-focus-10-ecoboost-superchips-review The only thing I can say now is that evo.co.uk need to fire their test driver and get someone who knows what they’re talking about. They claim it needs back to back drives to feel the difference. Nope. It’s innediately noticeable. The difference is clearly there as soon as it’s done. The review put me off bluefin for a while. Now I’ve taken the chance I’ve seen the review was wrong.