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  1. unofix

    unofix

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    TomsFocus

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    StephenFord

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  4. DaveT70

    DaveT70

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/01/2024 in all areas

  1. For heaven's sake don't let @StephenFord see that.
    6 points
  2. They are the exhaust temp sensors wiring. Just need pulling through the clips a bit to stop them hanging down. ,
    6 points
  3. You can order one of these from your Ford dealer on Monday
    6 points
  4. It’s not registered with AA per car. You have to call Ford assistance and they send out the breakdown of their choosing, which is usually the AA. Ford has the “membership” not your car.
    5 points
  5. What a great community of helpful people this is! Thanks for all your replies. Thank you @troy45 for confirming that the blue cable is for the aerial - I'd read all sorts of things about blue cables being for DAB, black ones for FM and all sorts, so had really got lost down the rabbit hole! And massive thanks to @unofix - the black "lead" was in fact an old aerial, which had been shoved up into the headliner. I'd pulled it a bit to untape it all, but assumed it was a lead that was going somewhere so didn't want to overdo it - I could kick myself for all the confusion it's caused! @StephenFord I also thought it was odd, and wondered what had been going on. My guess now is that at some point the aerial base broke and this was somebody's bodge fix. I'll buy a new aerial base and antenna now. Do you have any recommendations, or things to avoid?
    5 points
  6. 5 points
  7. That is correct 👍 No, it's the driver not understanding what the "instant" fuel use reading means. Switch the reading to "Average" fuel if you want a more stable reading.
    5 points
  8. Please don't encourage him, there'll simply be no living with him on the forum 🤣🤣🎉🤣🤣
    5 points
  9. Well that's not true 🤨. Your list includes a broken coil spring on the nearside (passenger side) front. The ABS unit is on that same side of the engine bay, located behind the battery. To replace the coil spring they would have had to remove the entire macpherson strut. The top of the strut is secured to the vehicle frame with three bolts located to one side of the battery. You have to work in the engine bay to get to them. There's a brace that the three bolts pass through which supposedly needs to be removed for the procedure (according to the Haynes manual). Accessing the brace requires removing the two panels at the bottom of the windscreen (the 'scuttle cowl panel' and the 'bulkhead extension panel'), which in turn require removing the windscreen wipers. With those panels removed the ABS module would have been exposed to them. Removing the panels, the brace and the three strut bolts, they'd have been working within inches of the ABS unit. I don't understand why they are falsely claiming to have been nowhere near it, that's bullshit. Having been working right next to it there's every possibility that they could have slipped and damaged it. That said, it's also entirely possible that the fault has developed through no fault of their's and it's just an unlucky coincidence. The 'ABS sensors' are your wheel speed sensors. The sensor referenced by the error code (DTC) is something completely different, a sensor that measures pressure in the brake hydraulic system. I'm thus sure that it won't have anything to do with their work down in the area of the wheels. No. The 'C' on the front of the code indicates the 'chassis' category (there are four categories, P = powertrain, B = body, C = chassis, and U = Unknown/network/other). The next four digits are the code number within that category. The '-E0' bit is just providing some additional status information. I don't know what each possible such indicator value means, but it can signify whether it's an active or intermitted fault for instance. From a quick search, it's come up here before and did seem to require a new ABS pump:
    5 points
  10. There are two different sumps for the 1.5 EcoBlue. The metal sump with metal plug should be 35Nm. Plastic sump with plastic plug should be 7Nm.
    5 points
  11. I think that's the Park lock solenoid. Prevents anyone turning the dial out of Park without a foot on the brake.
    5 points
  12. Possibly not, the cars leaking oil and spraying it everywhere including the timing belt 🤣
    5 points
  13. The first system used Deflation Detection System (DDS) didn't use any wheel sensors. It actually used the pulses from the ABS system. It cleverly worked out that if a tyre was going flat the rotation of that wheel would be faster than the other 3 as it's circumference got smaller the more the tyre deflated.
    5 points
  14. Had the opportunity to drive a Ford Mustang GT Auto on Monday. Only drove it for a few hours but really liked it. Comfortable, well spec'd and super engine sound. Handled rural, urban and motorway roads with ease. (18 reg. 5 litre, metallic blue with wide go-faster grey stripes 😀).
    5 points
  15. Durex are known to make durable rubber products 🤣
    5 points
  16. Its worth establishing the facts on this as I'm seeing the words 'fail' and 'snap' banded about. All pre MY19 1.0 Ecoboost engines are "wet belt" - that is where the cambelt runs through the sump and is lubricated by the engine oil. If your TURBO is at the FRONT of the engine, it is a wet belt. If your TURBO is at the BACK of the engine, it is a timing chain. However - on timing chain engines, the oil pump is still driven by a wet belt. The wet belt issue is degradation of the belt over time, which leads to rubber chunks falling off the belt, into the engine oil in the sump. This then gets sucked up into the oil pickup and gets stuck on the mesh on the end of the tube. This lowers the total oil pressure which causes oil starvation issues. The standard replacement interval is 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This is a recommendation NOT a target. In theory, a vehicle serviced with the correct Ford WSS-M2C948-B engine oil at regular intervals, the belt should, in theory, last for that interval. Any contamination at all - i.e. moisture due to short journeys, oil flush products, oil additives, or even generic/non-spec 5W20/5W30 oil can lead to accelerated degradation of the belt. Just because you get the car serviced regularly at an 'under the arch' at the end of your road, this does not necessarily mean that everything will be fine - many independent garages will buy a vat of generic 5W30 and use it for all their oil changes and it's simply the wrong stuff for the engine.
    5 points
  17. You can add pictures.
    5 points
  18. The petrol luddites on here will have something to say no doubt. Prepare to be reported for even mentioning the words electric vehicle. Have you tried the born yet?
    4 points
  19. I had a dream that I got a payout in 20 years time for the great wetbelt scandal of the 2010s. 🤣 I can just hear the tv adverts now. "Did you own a ford ecoboost engine between 2012 and 2023? You could be entitled to thousands in compensation. Thats our no win no fee guarentee"
    4 points
  20. Had the car from new. If anyone had any doubt if the pre collision assist works or not I can tell you.. it works 100% !! It’s just saved my bacon! Doing 35 mph , car in front brakes hard as I’m changing radio station, in that split second the focus dropped anchor ..proper emergency stop. I’ve had a few false alarms years ago so changed sensitivity to low iirc. Anyway it works , it would take balls of steel to properly test it , hopefully last time I’ll need it.
    4 points
  21. This thread is hilarious! almost 60 replies so far, let's go for 100! Classic 'my dad can pee higher than your dad...' 🤣 Of course the OP will eventually have to put his hand in his pocket and actually BUY some new tires, but c'mon guys, lets see how long we can keep it going for. Then, when you're all drained, we can start another thread on what pressure they should be run at 😂😂😂
    4 points
  22. Hi all just to give quick update, took to the ford dealership, which took about 20 days for the diagnosis team to be available. They updated the power control module and worked fine, passed the mot without any faults.
    4 points
  23. @JamesJL77 As mentioned above I'm providing a repair service for the common instrument cluster cracked solder joint problem, which could alternatively be the actual cause of your problem. Here's a link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915
    4 points
  24. I shouldn't have seen that wetherspoons app. Oh dear, I'm in Tears as my son is currently in wetherspoons and told me he knows about the face book thing. He asked if I wanted to send him a drink. Told my daughter and she sent 1/2 of ruddles,roasted vegetables, then her boyf iend sent 2 slices of black pudding and a britvic tomato juice. 🤣🤣🤣🤣 At least I sent a beer. Was an alcohol free stella🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
    4 points
  25. .....and then you can 'bump start' them ??? 🤣
    4 points
  26. You just know it would be another thing to rattle on a Ford.
    4 points
  27. No. EasyFuel was fitted to all MK2 facelifts. Saves all the hassle with fuel caps!
    4 points
  28. Mine was even cheaper - zilch. I made it up from scrap material. Profiled the slot to the same dimensions as the supplied jack.
    4 points
  29. Absolutely !! Zebedee was just saying how his didn't last 🤣
    4 points
  30. Well that's good news then, hopefully ford think like that and they pay for the whole thing. Just have to wait till Monday now and see.
    4 points
  31. Followed JOE00 suggestion 👍, ordered new accelerator pedal (Be careful as you need the right model for your car) from EBAY for £17, fitted and all working😀 , The warning was coming on when the brake was applied, I guess the transducer in the accelerator pedal was not returning to zero when pedal released, and therefore the computer thought both pedals were being pressed at the same time
    4 points
  32. 1.5 Ecoblue is a dry belt Probably failure of the tensioner or it's done more mileage than you think, have you checked the service records? If you bought the car with finance or a credit card I would start a complaint Best case, stick a 2nd hand replacement engine in of the same code, there's plenty about. Make sure you hear it running before removal from the donor and fit a belt before you fit to your vehicle (If Ford won't pay)
    4 points
  33. You have a faulty LCD screen. It is missing [ section to make the [] or 0 but just showing the right side which makes it look like a one. Look at this thread. Really easy fix.
    4 points
  34. Just noticed I reached 10,000 today, only another 6000 to go before I catch @TomsFocus up 😂
    4 points
  35. Just thought I'd share a good news story. For various reasons we took the Fiesta to Spain for a month. We travelled as far south as Valencia. The car had just ticked-over 100k miles, so the 2,696 mile trip puts it just shy of 103k. No issues. I stupidly took it into the Bardenas Reales desert on the way back, on 17" wheels and low profile tyres, but hey we were only 1000 miles from home - what could go wrong? To anyone considering a mk7, I recommend the 1.6 petrol engine once again - tried and tested old skool technology, it returned 47.4 MPG for the trip. Happy trails.
    4 points
  36. You need to slow down with the reply. Dave is from 'South Wales' he's only used to doing 20MPH 🤣
    4 points
  37. Considering that Peugeot recalled vehicles for this exact issue and offered longer warranties - in effect fronting the cost themselves for belt replacement suggests that this comment is incorrect.
    4 points
  38. Age isn't really the relevant factor there. Check the prices of Mk2 Xenon clusters. Guarantee you won't find a working one even close to £15 despite being 20 years old. There are still lower spec vehicles being produced today. People just don't take that sort of thing into consideration when buying. If you buy a top spec car with fancy headlights, you just have to accept the repair costs if they fail. If you can't afford the repair costs when buying second hand, choose a car with less tech.
    4 points
  39. Thought I’d follow up on using the new nuts. I haven’t got a Torque Angle Gauge or an angle capable wrench (£££), so thought I’d improvise as this isn’t an RAF typhoon. I torqued the nut up to 110 Nm as per YOG’s pdf with a decent (not deep) 30mm socket that was a nice fit. Then I used the same socket on a breaker bar (22” I think). To do the angle part, I downloaded a free graphic of a protractor. I sized it on the PC so I could print it and stick it to the hub with double sided sticky tape (see photos). I put the handbrake on firmly to stop the drum being accidentally rotated, then put the socket on the nut and the bar on the socket at an angle that I could give it some welly (downwards). I set the paper protractor (affixed well to the drum) to “0” degrees when lined up with the top of the bar then tightened the nut until the top or the bar met the 60 degree mark. It took some pushing, but I only used my right arm to push the bar down with my upper body weight really leaning on it (and I’m not Arnie). Thought I’d describe this, because of how it contrasts with my local garage’s method of doing it which is standing on the end of the breaker bar until it stops. Honestly, I witnessed this being done and was thinking flip me, this is only a 20mm dia thread, but hey. I’m now a bit less surprised that the cage nuts that came off for this job were as deformed as they were. Because I’m paranoid, I marked the corners of the nuts with a centre punch mark to see if they move in use. Pretty unlikely I know, but I’ll let you know if the wheels fall off : - ) I’ve attached the graphic for anyone interested. You’ll need to print it to A4 and cut along the lines that fit around the stepped part of the drum that the 4 studs are screwed into. I’m sure other members might think this is the less preferred way of doing it, so please don’t do it unless you feel confident as I take no responsibility for the outcome. Thanks again for your help on this chaps. Happy days…
    4 points
  40. Sorted! It came off with the pliers and then I could attach one of the wipers I’d already bought. Thanks for all the help folks. Picture of the sheath in case it’s useful for anyone else.
    4 points
  41. Now turned up showing an approx 25% increase in current premium. However, investigation revealed that excesses had been reduced substantially compared to previous year (change of underwriters, apparently) so I did some further tweaking of the online quotes to get an exact "like for like" comparison with other insurers. Conclusion of the tale is that after a discussion on the 'phone the existing insurer (Saga 'cos I'm old) matched the LV quote so I left it with them for this year. Very impressed with LVs online quote system though. Regarding other insurers, I wonder if anyone ever gets a different quote from Churchill vs Direct Line? I know they're part of the same group, but I understood they were supposed to operate as separate companies? I've never found quotes differed by more than a few pence, if that.
    4 points
  42. I didn't like seeing my daughters car being recovered from a motorway slip road, police in attendance. It was a coincidence I was there passing in another car; was a horrible shock Fortunately it wasn't a crash and both daughter and granddaughter are ok.
    4 points
  43. Just to finalise this for anybody, it pays to check the obvious! Having replaced the sparkplugs I decided to move along the line of investigation. Checking the plug leads found 3 in perfect condition, the 4th was fine at the plug end but at the coil end it was covered with copper corrosion inside. On removing the lead from the coil it was so corroded that the metal sleeve had broken off and stayed attached to the pin in the coil socket. So that explained the intermittent connection and missing running. New plug lead has solved the problem. Moral:- always examine the obvious and expect the unexpected!
    4 points
  44. The earth (ground, negative) is missing from the rear cluster. Check the earth wire connection to the chassis earth point near the rear light cluster. Either the wire is broken/corroded or the earth terminal that plugs on to the light cluster is damaged. The rear tail light which is only 5W is able to illuminate (but not as bright as normal) because it is connecting to ground via the 21W element of the brake light. When you apply the brake a 12V positive supply is sent to the brake light and since now neither the tail light or brake light have an earth both lights fail to illuminate.
    4 points
  45. The metal type are fitted by Ford to various models, and look the best imo. They aren't immune to scratches though! Personally, I'm not a fan of the rubber ones. They look a bit cheap to me, but should serve the purpose. There is also another option. You can use PPF (paint protection film) which is a thick, clear adhesive film designed to withstand stone chips etc on external panels. I think that would be more than strong enough to avoid minor shoe scratches, although may not be tough enough for something like dog claws. As it's a clear film, you still see the pristine paintwork through it.
    4 points
  46. New alternator fitted. I got the alternator and a belt for £165 from GSF and then a local mechanic charged me £100 to fit. He said it was a tough job to get the belt stretched properly. Getting back into the car, the steering seems lighter, I think it wasn't getting enough voltage. Having just spent £265, plus an extra £30 on taxis getting about, I am thinking of hanging on to it for a while longer yet! Thanks for all your input everyone.
    4 points
  47. The oil degrades more quickly with fuel and water contamination. Most fuel contamination happens when the engine is cold. Water contamination (damp from the air) happens all the time but only gets burnt off when the engine oil is warmed up. Basically the engine needs to be fully warmed up every time it's driven, and as quickly as possible. Sitting idling in town traffic every morning is about the worst possible scenario for a wetbelt, second only to being directly contaminated with engine flush or the wrong oil.
    4 points
  48. You're tempting fate having done that! Joking aside, whilst you can positively confirm a failing belt from appearance you can't positively confirm a non-failing one that way. They don't necessarily show any signs of external degradation before snapping because it is the internal wires that fail and it is they that provide the tension and strength.
    4 points
  49. To add to my previous comments on this post.. Turns out the left hand indicator switch was at fault. I could engage the high beam but after that there was no way i could disengage it back to the low beam. I replaced that and low beams are working 100%.. Simple to replace, unclip the switch locking pin, pull the switch up, unplug the 10pin connector, reconnect connector onto new switch; push it down in the slot until it clicks in position and voila.. 60sec job....
    4 points
  50. Clean it off with some solvent and see if it comes back, could be poorly cleaned off residue from idiot oil changes
    4 points


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