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It's now been about 1K miles since I changed the wet belts on my fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost. After researching the job I nearly didn’t tackle it, but now it's done I wanted to share some useful stuff. I’ve changed cam belts on every car I've owned and a few for friends and family so I think I can call myself an experienced DIYer. In a Fiesta it's not easy, the main difficulty is space and access to everything. At the heart of it's just another timing belt. Thankfully for this one I had the use of my classic car friend's ramp; without it I think it would have been seriously tricky. There are too many negative comments about this engine. Wet belts and keyless crank pulley are fine. This isn’t Fords first keyless engine, the predecessor Zetec engine was keyless, so they knew what they were doing. In my case at 11 years old and 62k miles, the as found visible condition of both belts was good and the oil pick up was perfectly clear, so no concerns for future reliability. Cam setting tool kits are widely available, I paid £72 for mine. The torque multiplier isn’t necessary if the engine is still secure in the vehicle so there are no problems resisting the forces required to remove and refit the crank bolt. Roughly plan for 500-600Nm, realistically that equates to a ¾" drive 6-point socket and a 3-foot scaffold pole. With an engine on a bench, resisting these forces would be very difficult, hence reduce the external force applied with a torque multiplier. Over and above my normal tool selection I needed the following. Timing tool set. Deep 10mm box key to remove extended cam cover bolts as even my long socket was too short. Nut splitter to remove the nuts on the exhaust front pipe to centre joint. 10mm screwed rod, roughly 100-150mm long with nuts and washers. ¾" drive torque wrench. There are two widths of cam belt fitted to EcoBoost engines. The wider belt is 18.5mm kit part number 2121996, and the narrower belt kit is 16mm kit part number 2122062. No idea how to know in advance which is required. The kits don’t include the oil pump belt or the crank bolt. In addition to the other standard parts I would recommend the cam belt cover to block cooling water seal part number 1816352 and the water pump plastic inlet manifold O rings part numbers 5198199 and 5198200. The top starter motor bolt is also a gearbox fixing bolt and the thread is in the starter motor. So, when fitting the flywheel locking tool use the 10mm screwed rod and nuts in the top-hole location. Original starter motor bolt is fine for the lower bolt as the thread is in the block. Supporting the engine. Unless you have some clever engine support you can't have the sump off and the timing belt cover mounting off as the same time. So, remove the sump and the plastic belt cover, ease the belt off the oil pump pulley, clean the sump joint faces and loosely refit the sump. Support the engine under the sump remove the timing belt cover, clean the joint faces, change the belts, loosely refit cam belt cover and engine mount. Remove the sump, ease the belt onto the oil pump pulley, refit plastic cover, final clean, apply sealant and refit sump. Support the engine under the sump, remove the cam belt cover, final clean, fit new water seal, apply sealant and refit cam belt cover and engine mount. Obviously, you need to fill all the gaps and other steps, There are no air bleed points in the cooling system so in addition to the usual methods note the following. The top of the radiator is a high point, the way to vent the air at this point is to, only just, ease the top hose off, and only at the hose 12 O’clock position, until coolant is visible. Do this with the engine cold, the expansion cap off and the reservoir at maximum. It's a good engine, try driving one of the alternative non-turbo Fiesta’s and there's no question.

Not that sorta model with the pants off it neither 🙄 To any of the old fella's on this forum I've no doubt you've 'not' made an Airfix kit 😅 Completed this today, originally released in 1974, long time ago now...Airfix 1/24th Harrier GR1, this thing isn't small 🤭

Thanks. I've a small room upstairs which used to be my Sons bedroom, now he's flown the nest that's 'my room' for my models, sadly that room is becoming cluttered not, I'd like to donate some of my models to an aircraft museum.

Or the stalker breaking into the womans house then leaving behind box of milk tray🤣🤣🤣🤣

Me too. The government, correctly, has banned the use of Smartphone use in cars becasue they're distracting, and you need to take your eyes off the road to interact with them (apart from very rudimentary voice commands). Yet our very intelligent car designers think it's so clever to put most car functions on a touchscreen with multiple menus/sub menus which is impossible to use whilst car is in motion, and highly dangerous needing you to look at screen rather than what you're driving in to! They're a ridiculous invention for car use!

My mistake. I thought you were making a joke 🙂 No offense intended. IPA = Isopropanol Alcohol. It's good for many things. I use 99.9%, because, well, for cleaning off solder flux, I find it's better than the lower percentage stuff. You'll find that 'lens cleaners' are impregnated with IPA. Btw: my drink of choice is JD&Coke, where JD = Jack Daniel's and Coke is the soft drink, not the white powder 😉

This is a Things I do like thread and this club is not the place for such recent language.

It never ceases to baffle me why car designers make consumable items so awkward to change.

Amazing that it needs one now after managing to run for 21 years with the factory fitted system 🤣

No. The PATS immobiliser will prevent the car from starting and the mileage will be wrong. Just get your own instrument cluster repaired. @rd457

They do like to use these Latin terms. The senior partner at my GP practice, who I've known for years, is much more straightforward. When discussing the X-rays of the joint with me he just described it as "completely buggered"!😀

That's nothing. Had an owner of a mini who filled the engine up with oil until it was level with the filler cap.

This is a job for............ @StephenFord 👍👍👍👍

One of the springs has come off the back of the airbag, or it's not fully latched into the steering wheel

Great write-up Grant - thanks for sharing. I think these sorts of posts are particularly helpful for others contemplating doing the job as not only do they provide useful information and advice but also helps put things into perspective as to how big, but nevertheless achievable, the job is. Goog on you for being so honest about the amount of time taken. I bet you'd do it in a fraction of that if you were to ever do another as for us DIYers it's the learning curve that seems to take the majority of time up. A couple of comments to add, made in the spirit of adding further to your tips/comments for the benefit of others: - Crank Pulley Washer - You didn't mention fitting a diamond-encrusted washer (part code 1870533) between the crank pulley and belt sprocket. This isn't fitted in the factory but is recommended for a belt change. - Belt Widths - Ford moved from the wider belt to narrower following issues of premature belt wear on the edges due to oil-induced swelling (measuring belt width happens to be the approved method of determining wet belt health in a Puretech engine). There is a general correlation therefore with engine age and the size fitted, but as you say there doesn't appear to be a clear way of determining this in advance - most likely given the variations caused by different engines being made in different factories and perhaps destined for different vehicles too. The logic behind the discrepancies isn't clear, but it might simply be if Ford has already bought a million belts they'd try and use them up if they can! - Engine Support - I screwed a few pieces of wood together such that I could support the engine block (by its edges, clearing the oil pump) even when both the sump and engine cover were off. Looking back it probably wasn't necessary as many seemingly just support the engine on the driveshaft support bearing (noting that if you aren't using a torque multiplier this doesn't need removing). - Coolant Pump Cover Seal - The design of this part (new code 1816352) has been modified from the original by no longer including the protruding locating tab. This tab sits in a small cutout in the engine cover but in doing so opens up the risk of external oil leakage finding its way down to the seal causing it to swell and potentially leak. Newer engine covers no longer have the tab recess and old covers should ideally have it filled in with a dab of sealant when using the new seal to remove the risk of allowing oil to enter. I agree it is indeed a good engine and performs well, and if looked after (and by that I simply mean regular oil changes!) I see no reason it shouldn't last as long as anyone can reasonably expect a small-car engine to.

There must be a ceiling on the ISS. The equipment and screens are orientated in one direction. 🤔 Also, fun fact, the ISS isn't actually that high up. If it was stationary, there would be enough of Earths gravity acting on it to pull your toast to the floor! The only reason it's effectively weightless inside is because it travels 'forward' much faster than the earth rotates so it can maintain an orbit.

If only, that sounds a really useful feature, who wouldn't want to discover another inch 😁

There is no way that is true. If they are trying to do another Regeneration and can't then maybe it is because the DPF is too blocked, the cars PCM will not allow a Regeneration to occur if the Differential Pressure is greater than a certain amount.

Hi! Super late with this reply. Apologies. Yes it did fix the problem. The light went out. Thanks for the help

rd457 i have finally fixed the problem took me 9 months but i want to live the fix because most of the posts i have seen note actually fixed the problem. So went to ford they told me because its a intermitent fault the repair could go even as 2000 Euro wich is absurd, i have changed the battery again with a varta silver dynamic, still no joi so finally i decided to change the alternator even that it was charging and working properly , and that was the problem ive i staled a valeo oem and everything works perfectly no more errors, after i installed the new i opened the old one and noticed the one of the brushes almost worn out also the slipring. Im guessing that when in Load the car ecu notice the strain on the alternator and enters in some kind of power save mode not to kill the alternator, i have monitored it and the charging was good all the time i had an external voltage indicator on all the time, so yea the Alternator was the culprit

thank you again guys i have decided to buy them seperately to save cost. the link i posted was for 65 for the pair, i managed to find the driver for 20 and passenger for 20 so 40 posted 🙂

Unless it's a calendar watch and then it could be days & days 😉

Still going strong 💪 💪 💪

1. My wife of 30+ years 2. Retiring at 53, not having a boss and using a clock for cooking and not for where I should be. 3. My kids doing awesome things with their Doctorates in Physics and Degrees in Law. 4. Dogs 5. Cats 6. Xbox One any FPS or Sandbox wander. 7. Proper fresh brewed Italian Moka pot coffee on a Sunday morning with fresh crumpets and a heart attack inducing amount of butter melted in em. 8. People who smile back when you smile at them. 9. Polishing a car to within an inch of its life over a number of weeks until it is nearly showroom fresh. 10. Britain, with all its problems, is still 90% pretty much brilliant. 11. Driving the wrong way down a lane and finding places so beautiful by accident you'll never tell anybody else about in case they ruin it. (One of them in Scotland, early evening, so stunning I actually cried). PS. My wife doesn't even know about this.

Many thanks guys, my removal key turned up but the bottom right corner wouldnt come out but luckily the serial number was at the top so i just pulled the top bit out slightly and saw it. Typed the serial number online and got my code and now radio works 😊

Low mileage actually gives you less time, I wouldn't wait till next year. That car must have spent a lot of time with a cold engine, which accelerates degredation. Has it had annual oil changes?

I'm supportive of solar panels in the right places (why aren't they compulsory on the roof of new builds for example) but to reduce food production is plain daft. Still, what do you expect from someone who can't eat a bacon sandwich. Maybe that's the plan - if there's no land to breed pigs, there won't be any bacon, so he can't be embarrassed in future!😀

................... you just know what comes next 🤣🤣🤣 Don't keep us waiting Dan !!

I was in Tesco this morning about 10am and there seemed no problems in there. I normally carry cash as well, but it wouldn't cover what Mrs B manages to spend at the supermarket!😀

Put the Ford recommended in👍

I don't think I'd hate it as much if it wasn't called a, 'Capri'. Those of us of a certain age will have very fond memories of that car, everything from the run out 2.8i special, to the 3 liter S that Bodie & Doyle drove. That car Ford are launching is NOT a Capri!

I was one of those attendants at our village petrol station when I was around 14. Squirt the 2 stroke oil in . Ours had a dial to turn so you could have varying amounts per squirt from 10/1 to 50/1. 1 squirt per half gallon. And same for Castrol r.

Guys i did it !! It was the ignition relay ! Thank you !!

Back in the days when 2 stroke motorcycles used a "petroil" mix rather than an "autolube" system with a seperate oil tank, most filling stations had a separate hand operated pump which dispensed the correct amount of oil per gallon for the given ratio - 25:1, etc. I stopped at a filling station and asked the attendant to put in a "gallon of 2 stroke" while I popped into the kiosk. When I came out I found he had done exactly that, and was still pumping neat 2 stroke oil into my tank! I made sure to "supervise"the operation after that.😀

Here's a very special Lotus Consul Capri. Ford never actually produced any of these since they opted to do a deal with Lotus for the Cortina Mk1

There's a newish BMW near me with door seal hanging off. It is parked next to a Focus so must be crossing species now. 😮

Main questions everyone wants to know is...... ''Was you drunk when you did that'' 😂 😆 ''Are you just covering up the fact your missus did it'' 😝 🤭 Some years ago a friend of mine was topping up their oil through the dipstick tube!!! She said it was taking ages 🙄

I was thinking more that some may not prefer a brushless, vibration free motor - 🤣 I'll get my coat too...

Yes, but it'll show low fuel pressure until the engine starts anyway. The high pressure fuel pump is driven directly from the engine so can only create pressure when the engine is running. That's why the low pressure side needs to be manually primed with a hand pump first otherwise it'll never start. If you've got an OBD reader with live data then we need to see over 200rpm from the crank sensor and 250bar of fuel rail pressure before the injectors will fire. If the RPM is too low, that's a fault with the battery or starter. If the fuel pressure is too low, that's a fuelling issue (pump/filter/pipework empty).

LOL, OK buddy... this is one that many on here seem to use. It has many features, and is modestly priced. Also very easy to use, and comes complete with a 'fly lead'. It's also a personal recommendation as I use it myself... The good old, 'Maypole'. Less than £25 inc P&P

That's why he's called Mr flip flop.

The bonnet latch needs adjusted after your little bump, or you might even need to replace it (about £20)

So I’ve actually been speaking with the U.K. Executive office this week a couple of times, who have been great and really helpful as I have a separate issue as well. They can confirm that Ford UK are totally aware of the issue that we are all experiencing and a fix is in the process. it is taking longer than hoped, but they are hoping the Fix will be released sometime in August. They will not however release it if there are still issues. They want to ensure everything is ok. But Ford are aware and I will be kept up to date when they have more news as my case will stay open for now.

Quite possibly, his wife was in 🤣

Also you wouldn't need to worry dropping the toast and landing butter side down.

I hope you don't charge Ford labor rates (£120 per hour) that would have cost £4200 🤣

I have a Ford focus titanium x 2014 with 31500 miles but because it is a 64 plate it is coming up for 10 years old and was due an mot also. I took it to my local garage who replaced the timing belt and oil pump belt, the shim behind the flywheel, the water pump and the rocker cover (cost £250) for the genuine one from ford and changed the oil and filter and also removed and cleaned the sump and oil pump (they showed me all the parts they removed and replaced and mechanic said it was the cleanest one he had seen) and mot as well cost £1300 and we'll worth it as ford were quoting £2500 to do the work. Car is now running great again and I feel like I have a new car as it is still in immaculate condition They also recommended an oil and filter change every 9000 miles to keep it in good condition and to always use the correct oil .

I bought a decent set of German made axle stands back in 1979, they have been used numerous times on different cars over 40+ years. Literally, your life will depend on them, don't skimp, and if taken care of, they last a lifetime... Also, keep an eye out in Lidl, they often do a middle aisle offer on trolley jacks, really good quality for not much money, again, a lifetime tool...

I think you just answered your own question. The jack supplied with the vehicle is intended to be used in an emergency to change a wheel. It is not intended to be used for car maintenance. Get a trolley jack, and a pair of axle stands, your very life depends on safely lifting and supporting the nearly 2 ton of metal. Use the jack on the chassis to lift the vehicle, do not use the lifting points on the sill (or cill) as they are only suitable for use with the tyre jack.

Excellent service on an order of caravan cleaner from Tayna batteries*- order placed yesterday afternoon, delivered this morning by Royal Mail within the 2 hour slot advised, so well done to them too. (* Tend to think of them as batteries only, but they stock all sorts of stuff!)