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i noticed the dab connector was turning around when i connected the aerial to it so i tightened the connector on the dab un it up just put it all back together and the signal is really strong now after ordering a booster

That looks cool! Been ages since I've seen that time on a screen though, I only ever use 24 hour setting myself! As it's impossible to know the precise age at which I'll die to determine which part of life is the middle, I've just decided to have an on-going crisis.

You can find below the steps needed to replace the mirror indicator bulbs/ remove the housing on a mk7 Fiesta. The process is pretty simple, takes about 10 mins and only needs one person and a screwdriver. I was removing the cover to replace the bulbs with chrome ones but the same process applies for pretty much any work you want to do on the mirrors. The reason I have written this guide is that whilst the process is simple it does require you to apply a fair bit of pressure to plastic parts which is always a worry if you don't know exactly what you're doing. From my experience the job doesn't endanger your mirror glass as you pretty much leave that alone and you're most at risk of snapping one of the plastic clips on the housing. On the up side though they all seem surprisingly sturdy so as long as you're careful you will be fine. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Morning all This is my first post on this forum, as I have just put a deposit down on a 2016 Edge Sport that I am collecting next Friday. I had been looking for ages for a certain spec, colour, mileage etc, and finally found something that almost ticked all the boxes, It’s a Kona Blue Sport and it’s in really good condition, so looking forward to seeing how well it behaves over the coming years. I’ve got a few niggling questions which I’ll post separately under individual topics, but thanks in advance for any help and guidance that can be given. Thanks

Okay, cheers for looking. I will try and push it above where it looks to go, lets hope it will stay put.

DAB-Z? It's not that hard to find on Google, clickly here Edit: looks like it's actually on Google Play now so should be even easier to find. I haven't looked at updating mine since I installed it a year ago lol.

And I'm done! The old Focus isn't thinking much of it though 😃 got to wait until Tuesday now until I can get it emptied 🙄

The car is running.... ...like a dog! 😂 I have clouds of smoke which is a mixture of colours - partly the crap I cleaned the DPF with I suspect but also a fair about of thick white smoke. Also feels/sounds like it’s running on 3 cylinders so I may have an issue with an injector or something still. i think it just set of the neighbour’s smoke detectors so I’m going to run and hide now!!

Thanks eurocarparts has 45% off so just over 12 pounds so happy with that 😁

Got bored so create a lock screen wallpaper

If you do one of them cleaner jobs then you are also supposed to change the filter as far as I know.

+1 for forscan and tunnel rat, the amount of times I've scanned my car in the last couple of weeks, if I was paying a garage £40 a time, I could've bought a new car. I got the WiFi one, keep it in the glove box, if anything goes wrong, scan on my phone, clear codes and see if any come back.

I do like having a possible job offer yesterday... Might just look into it a bit more given how crap things are presently. Only thing I'd miss about this job is the money!

Went to work yesterday morning and forgot to bring a packet of cheese & onion crisps which were sitting on the kitchen counter worktop, Our daughter got these pictures of our dog Liam watching out the window while I drove away; he was trying to remind me about the crisps 😂 You forgot your crisps Len.. Sadly temptation got the better of his generosity at some point across the nine hours that I was away; because he stank of cheese & onion crisps when I got back home;

If you have disconnected battery to replace it the throttle body may need re learning.

What do we win if we guess correctly? Generic OBD readers won't be of much help, you'd have been much better off buying a modified ELM for use with Forscan though I think postage takes a few days on those. An alternator that looks new might just have been a cheap refurbishment job, lets hope not though. The rev issue looks like either a vacuum leak or a throttle body fault....but could be a voltage issue, so that's really what needs sorting first.

Think you'll find its buried behind the engine LHS ,just follow the pipework.Not very accessible though.

Do cars and commercial. Got 20 vehicles to do Tues/weds . Good money earner.

Simply swapping ECU, dash clock binnacle and key did the job, thanks a lot guys !

Make sure your leak off pipes aren't leaking diesel and give it a few revs to clear it out and get the fuel pressure up

Lots of good ideas here, interesting that no one seems to use the fog light surround with LED strip. My only concern really with some of the options mentioned here is whether would be likely to get other drivers flashing lights all the time thinking I've just got front fogs on in daylight. Wouldn't be using at night with other lights,intend to wire the trip off wire such that as soon as the auto headlights kick in the DRLs trip off. I've seen aftermarket headlight units that have integrated DRL LED strips too but not cheap. Still giving it all thought. Known to be indecisive!

Even with all the tech we have now, the tightest of manufacturing tolerances, the most robust materials, the most effective oils and coatings, no car is without problems. I would suggest a pushbike but even then you've got the risk of snapped chains! (So may as well have bought a BMW... ) This is an interesting thread now he's mentioned resale though... Because in 2 years time, the 1.25 will be worth less and difficult to sell as it'll be due a cambelt change. The EcoBoost will still have 3 years before being due and I think we can probably all agree that the EcoBoost is the more desirable engine anyway, and still will be then. Only being an extra £250 for the EcoBoost also makes that more appealing. If it's always been a London car, I'd also be surprised if the turbo pipes are severely rusty, it's unlikely to have seen harsh winters and lots of road salt which I'm fairly sure it's a strong contributing factor.

Apparently your not old but middle aged until 58. Then your classed as old. Phew!!

Having driven both ecoboost every time with better MPG (If driven off boost most of the time) and free road tax. Better performance when you need it and Lower running costs when you don't win win

I just bought insurance for my Fiesta ST for £200 In fact, the total bill for all 3 cars (a 2016 Fiesta ST and 2017 Mercedes GLC with business cover, and a 2020 Caterham Seven 310R with track day cover) was only £940! I must be getting old - 43 next week

Hi there, Thankyou so much for responding. I haven’t been to a Ford dealership themselves just several different independents but I will definitely look into purchasing a Fordscan Thankyou! So far what I know, I’ve had the boost solenoid replaces last week I believe, it worked for a few days with no issues, in a heatwave and it was perfect however sadly fell back into lymp mode. When I took it back to my mechanic the code read that it was an ‘underboost failure. I’ve had the fuel filter replaced a couple of days ago and had some cleaning solution put in to help? I will post some codes once I can get my hands on a fordscan! if it helps, the car doesn’t perform well when it’s higher temperature or if I’m on the dual carriageway (which includes 2 roundabouts, shifting in and out of gear seems to trigger it usually too) the road is 25-30 mile route to work. It always jumps straight into limp mode if I shift into 5th gear which is a nightmare. Thankyou again.

Not worth the hassle to convert to a PCD of 5 x 100 mm unless the wheels are really special.

LOL! Shush! Been scouring the Russian forums with Google translate and they are all over these bulbs and some of the pictures they’re posting up are really impressive. The cut off is incredible for such a small bit off kit. So I’ve got high hopes! In my eyes, don’t knock it until you try it. If they’re rubbish, I’ll easily get my money back. If they’re good, then win win. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Apparently they should hit the UK in the next day or so. Pretty when quick considering what’s going on in the world! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Tell them to hurry up 😂

Try https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/ for parts diagrams/part numbers

Yes, I think the ST line x for Titanium X levels of kit, including the traffic sign recognition. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My exact thoughts too! Cannot believe the cut off from the reviews... I’m getting really excited now, these could either be a game changer or absolute crap. But it looks and sounds promising :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hi Dwain, (or are you really Cat?) ...yours is a mk3 facelift. Take a look at this fordwiki site for interesting info. https://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php/Category:Mondeo_Mk3

Nice review https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OTCDG0qfUBY

Hi Welcome

Thought I would come back and update this, finally had the job done, while they were there also had the timing belt changed(genuine kit), new cam seals, spark plug seals and had the cam cover resealed, both aux belts and an inner cv joint. Was almost £650 :/

If you still have it whenever it needs replacing, pony up for stainless steel, it'll look gorgeous for the remainder of the life of your car. If the 'look'really bothers you, you could splash out on can of satin black VHT paint, otherwise as Tom says, it's mild steel, they all do that!

Well got bored and fitted them, I still need to mod the needles and get some brighter smd's, but I'm over the moon with how they look Off And on The red and blue are not as blotchy as the camera makes them look, it's just the camera Allan

Looks like a Suzuki swift Which on another topic; have really crept up in price for the category of vehicle there huge money

If I was you I'd start by cleaning the intake manifold and check that the engine is running properly first as the 1.8 tdci is getting old and is probably choking up with carbon

I have just done the fix as per "Fusemans" photos on a 2012 cmax. Saved £800 for a new heater matrix from ford... 22 MM heater hosed needed. I managed to get hold of a fairly flexible heater hose.I also put the hose in hot water for 5 mins to make it softer and easier to fit. Don't even think of using 19 mm hose too small to get over the tube at the heater matrix end. I used the hose clamps to block off the heater hose in the engine bay. Saved draining and then bleeding the cooling system. I cut the heater hose into 2 x 50mm pieces. Top one first.Push the heater hose onto the pipes coming from the engine.Put two hose clamps on the rubber hose and tighten one up so you can use the aluminum pipe to push the heater hose over the heater matrix. Adjust the heater hose into the right position. Don't tighten the clamps yet. For the bottom pipe , put one clamp over the heater matrix end and leave it there.Push the heater hose on to the pipe from the engine and tighten the clamp enough to hold the heater hose in place while pushing it over the heater matrix tube. Get all the heater hoses sitting properly and tight the clamps. There is enough flex in the pipes to makes this a reasonable easy job.It was easier than I thought it would be. I did try the this with new ford clamps and o rings and the clamps broke when fitting them.

So he did. Well spotted. I’m off to spec savers.

Hi, Like Joss says, error codes (DTCs) in the engine would be useful. There can be codes present without the EML (the engine management warning light) being on. Most electrical, and major mechanical faults will generate DTCs. Does the rough running extend right up the power & rev range, or is it mainly at idle? Injector problems usually affect most of the range. Blanking off the EGR (a few quid off Ebay) can be used to diagnose / eliminate EGR problems. It does not usually cause an error code on these engines. Badly clogged fuel filter is a possible. But starting these engines after a filter change is hard. They have no tank mounted pump, and any air on the main pump inlet will prevent starting. I fitted a non-return valve in the supply to the filter, and used a priming pump, to fill the filter and fill the filter outlet pipe. It started and ran ok on the second attempt, with no more than the usual cranking time, with that method. These engines are less complex than some, but there are still quite a few possibilities: MAF & MAP sensors, Air & CH temperature sensors, Diesel pump & its regulation system, Injector, wiring. For diagnostics, ignoring garages at up to £100 a go, there are two options: 1) Get a generic OBD2 scanner. From about £10.00. I got a U480 off Ebay, worked fine. Very easy to use, self contained, but limited capabilities. OR 2) Get Forscan. It is not quite as simple as the self contained OBD2 scanner, but much more comprehensive. Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost £15.00 for the interface. Needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, Bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196 Reply here if interested in the Forscan route. It can monitor sensor readings like fuel rail pressure, MAF & MAP readings, so can help narrow down the possibilities, as well as reading far more DTCs than a generic scanner.

Thanks Sal, good advice there mate cheers, I've taken the time yesterday to list out the whole process in order of what's to be done next so I don't really have to evaluate it all the time just make the money and follow the process, Also measured up for all TV cables, going to future proof things by fitting a few more cables than I currently need. I like the pace of progress to be a little drawn out like this as it gives time to think about things in detail. Thanks mate, I'll have a small update around 17th-20th

excellent work lenny

Excited to be reading this dude! Keep up the good work

Fords have a high bite new or old.... theres no way to tell my clutch went there was no slipping noises or issues it just went

Until this Year my car had still the software which was loaded at the factory (2004 software). I did not had any problems but decided to upgrade the software to a newer version. With the ELMconfig software and a (modified) ELM327 interface I have the ability to update the PCM software myself. For my type of enginge (Focus MK2 1.6 Duratec 100 BHP) there were over 20 different firmware versions available (all 1.6 firmware of Focus MK2/MK2.5 is interchangeable). I loaded the latest available firmware and noticed a few things: * The engine runs a lot smoother * When idling the engine is a bit quiter and more stable. * Fuel economy is a bit better. Strictly it is not needed to update the software when there are no problems. In most cases the car will run fine with the old software. Nevertheless in my opinion a firmware upgrade can bring some improvements which will affect the driveability in a positive way.

My 1.8 tdci went from 115 to 148 with a Bluefin - verified on a DOT rolling road test.