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Has anyone removed an Ecoboost engine themselves?


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As per title - looking for some advice from anyone who has done an engine swap themselves. I have the Haynes manual to guide me, however it instructs you to remove the engine by lowering it from the engine bay. In a fully kitted out workshop with ramps that's easy of course, but not so much for the home mechanic. So can it be done reasonably straightforwardly by lifting the engine out instead? Or is this a non-starter?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok so it seems no-one else has attempted this. In the end I tackled it myself armed with Haynes and a very helpful mate. We followed the advice in the manual and removed the engine from below, first raising the car up on axle stands supported on a platform of concrete blocks. The front of the car needs to be around 2 feet high to get the engine out and back in comfortably from below. To avoid the car being at a very high angle, I reversed it onto service ramps at the rear. In retrospect, the car could have done with being more level than it was as it was quite tricky to manoeuvre the new engine back in place (forward/back space is quite tight and it's hard to stop the engine coming into contact with the intercooler if the engine and car are at different angles).

Changing it out was generally reasonably straightforward, if a lengthy process (plenty of hoses and wires to disconnect everywhere!). I would give the following advice to anyone tackling it themselves:

  • Make a note of where the wires and hoses are routed before you remove them. It's not obvious in a couple of instances which way cables are routed around other components when you reassemble
  • In addition to the parts listed by Haynes, I would suggest getting some cable ties including the type that have a plastic serrated stud fixing that secure onto brackets on the engine and gearbox, as I cut a number of these off to release the engine loom
  • Check you have everything before you start. Despite verbal and written instructions along with the description of what I was doing, Ford failed to supply me with what I requested and gave me a set of CV boot clamps instead of the inner retaining clip for the left hand driveshaft
  • Most of the hoses are easy enough to disconnect, but a trick I never knew before and shown by my mate is to break the hold by twisting the hose until it's free before pulling off the mounting barbs (this was a revelation to me!)
  • The EVAP line is all some horrid hard plastic that seems nigh on impossible to remove from the fittings, so I just transferred the whole assembly over from one engine to the other (there are several quick release fittings to mount it to the intake hoses etc which make this job easy enough)
  • By far the most awkward thing that caused me much irritation was the fuel line "quick disconnect" hose elbow that fits onto the high pressure fuel pump. This has four tangs that spring inwards from the inside of the elbow, and they need to be pushed outwards to slide back over a ridge on the fuel pump mounting barb. You can buy special tools for not much money online to do this job (it's an 8mm/ 5/16 hose) but access is ridiculously tight (mine had a maximum clearance of 7mm between the pump and the fitting) and the chances are you won't be able to fit a tool in there. By the time I'd sanded the tool down enough to fit, it wouldn't go in far enough to release the fitting. I eventually found out from a garage that the way to deal with this is using several angled picks (they look like dentistry tools) to force the tabs open whilst an assistant firmly pulls the elbow back. Once you know how, it's not too bad, but as this is easily accessible throughout the job definitely figure out and confirm that you cant sort this step out first before anything else!
  • Most of it can be tackled easily enough with one person, but definitely arrange for a helper for an afternoon to help with engine removal, gearbox separation/re-attachment and engine re-installation

Good luck to anyone who gives this a go. As I say although it might seem daunting if you know your way around cars it's doable. I managed it in a long weekend (probably a total of ~20 hours work including figuring out what to do at a few points and having a mate help for a good portion of that time). The car is, thankfully, now running fine.

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