Hi everyone I need some help.

Was out and about in the car today and everything was fine then as I got 50 yards from my road Engine Malfunction comes up and the engine dies now power but all electrics still work. Managed to turn into my road called the misses an I push it to my house (100 yards or so lucky I guess)

Now the car wont start ive plugged into the car an run forscan but no DTC errors and car still wont start. Anyone have any ideas

Service oil messages has been on for a while if that makes any difference .

Previously I have replaced the high pressure fuel pump and filter about 4 weeks ago an the intank pump was replaced.

Anyone have any idea why or what would cause it to cut out an not start.

gona go with cambelt

does it turn over? or try to?

40 minutes ago, Swearwolf said:

gona go with cambelt

does it turn over? or try to?

Sorry forgot to say. Its turning over no problem and trying to start just not going. Gonna give it a spray with some easy start tomorrow see it that gives it a boost.

I'd go with a leak on the fuel lines or filter. But that should trigger a low fuel pressure code.

Cambelt could have slipped a tooth or two, but that should trigger a cam/crank sync code.

At the moment it does sound like something internal if there are no codes when turning over. The code from the warning message must be one that resets on switch-off which is frustrating in this case.

Best advice I can offer for now is checking the two basic start parameters - engine speed over 300RPM and fuel rail pressure over 200bar.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

I'd go with a leak on the fuel lines or filter. But that should trigger a low fuel pressure code.

Cambelt could have slipped a tooth or two, but that should trigger a cam/crank sync code.

At the moment it does sound like something internal if there are no codes when turning over. The code from the warning message must be one that resets on switch-off which is frustrating in this case.

Best advice I can offer for now is checking the two basic start parameters - engine speed over 300RPM and fuel rail pressure over 200bar.

Thanks for that info, I will see if I can figure out how to get that live data up on forscan, I know its probably pretty easy but ive not worked out how to use the program properly yet so may take me a while lol. (I'm pretty thick when it comes to computers, but give me a spanner an im fine lol)

1 hour ago, BigSmiffy said:

Thanks for that info, I will see if I can figure out how to get that live data up on forscan, I know its probably pretty easy but ive not worked out how to use the program properly yet so may take me a while lol. (I'm pretty thick when it comes to computers, but give me a spanner an im fine lol)

On the left hand side of Forscan, click on the picture of a graph. Then use the drop down boxes to choose which things you want to see. Then click 'start' at the bottom of the screen.

The data is shown in a grid as default, but you can change the layout to a graph view which makes it easier to understand.

20 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

On the left hand side of Forscan, click on the picture of a graph. Then use the drop down boxes to choose which things you want to see. Then click 'start' at the bottom of the screen.

The data is shown in a grid as default, but you can change the layout to a graph view which makes it easier to understand.

Thanks for that i will see if I can find some time to do that later today if I get a chance if not might have to wait till next weekend.

On the pluss side I now know its not the cam belt as yesterday tried to start again no joy but then gave it a quick squirt with easy start an she fired up for a few seconds till it burn off the spray. So it just not getting fuel again.

Seams like it the same issue as what I had before I replaced the fuel pump a month ago but surely the pump couldn't have burnt out in a month with hardly any use.

I will check the data as soon as I can and see what it says. Thanks for the help

Does the 2.2 TDCI need an in-tank pump? Most Ford diesels don't before about 2015. Often one is fitted, just never powered. (The reason we have to go through all the hassle of manually bleeding after a filter change).

I really wouldn't expect a HP pump to fail again so quickly. If it failed to start after being parked then I'd say there was a small leak on one of the pipes or the filter, allowing fuel to run back to the tank. But the fact it only cut out after a long drive makes that seem very unlikely.

Really need confirmation on whether these need a tank pump. If they do, then next step is just to listen and see whether it's priming with the ignition on or not.

On 5/25/2026 at 9:53 AM, TomsFocus said:

Does the 2.2 TDCI need an in-tank pump? Most Ford diesels don't before about 2015. Often one is fitted, just never powered. (The reason we have to go through all the hassle of manually bleeding after a filter change).

I really wouldn't expect a HP pump to fail again so quickly. If it failed to start after being parked then I'd say there was a small leak on one of the pipes or the filter, allowing fuel to run back to the tank. But the fact it only cut out after a long drive makes that seem very unlikely.

Really need confirmation on whether these need a tank pump. If they do, then next step is just to listen and see whether it's priming with the ignition on or not.

The intank pump was replaced about a month or so before I replaced the hp pump as I thought that might have been the issue originally.

I could hear the intank pump prime before I replaced the hp pump so I presume it is needed, like you said surely the hp or the intank pump wouldn't fail after such a short time.

The other day when it cut out I had driven about 10 miles then stopped for an hour then drove back 10 miles then stopped for 10 min at a shop then a mile home an then it just cuts out at then end of my road.

So im really baffled. As said before the car will start on easy start so that wipes out cam belt issues. So going to see if I can get some readings off forscan at the weekend if I get a chance around work.

I did have a thought that it could be crankshaft sensor but would have thought that would pinp out an error code and im pretty sure its not going to be fuel rail pressure sensors as they wont stop an engine starting it will just make it run like a dog (or so im told anyway).

Anyway I will keep this post updated with anything and everything i find out or figure out, fingers crossed I get it sorted soon.

10 hours ago, BigSmiffy said:

The intank pump was replaced about a month or so before I replaced the hp pump as I thought that might have been the issue originally.

I could hear the intank pump prime before I replaced the hp pump so I presume it is needed, like you said surely the hp or the intank pump wouldn't fail after such a short time.

The other day when it cut out I had driven about 10 miles then stopped for an hour then drove back 10 miles then stopped for 10 min at a shop then a mile home an then it just cuts out at then end of my road.

So im really baffled. As said before the car will start on easy start so that wipes out cam belt issues. So going to see if I can get some readings off forscan at the weekend if I get a chance around work.

I did have a thought that it could be crankshaft sensor but would have thought that would pinp out an error code and im pretty sure its not going to be fuel rail pressure sensors as they wont stop an engine starting it will just make it run like a dog (or so im told anyway).

Anyway I will keep this post updated with anything and everything i find out or figure out, fingers crossed I get it sorted soon.

That is good to know. In that case, you can just remove the pipe from the fuel filter and switch ignition on to test whether fuel flows out. Using a tank pump also means it can't be a leak on the low pressure fuel system so we can rule that out.

Crank sensor is likely, it won't fire injectors before seeing around 300RPM.

Fuel Rail Pressure sensor does prevent starting unless that's another quirk of the 2.2 specifically. Injectors aren't fired below a certain pressure, usually around 200 bar on a 2000's diesel.

On 5/27/2026 at 9:04 AM, TomsFocus said:

That is good to know. In that case, you can just remove the pipe from the fuel filter and switch ignition on to test whether fuel flows out. Using a tank pump also means it can't be a leak on the low pressure fuel system so we can rule that out.

Crank sensor is likely, it won't fire injectors before seeing around 300RPM.

Fuel Rail Pressure sensor does prevent starting unless that's another quirk of the 2.2 specifically. Injectors aren't fired below a certain pressure, usually around 200 bar on a 2000's diesel.

So today I had RAC come out as I thought why the hell not i have home start for a reason he did a check and came up with 2 errors (forscan dont show these) P0087 Fuel pressure control valve to low, U0416 Invalid data received form vehicle dynamics control module.

I have also run the live data that you suggested (thanks for the explanation of how to do it) and fuel rail pressure is sitting at 650kpa from my google search it should be sitting at 25,000kpa.

And the rpm was sitting around 245 ish

So im baffled to hell as to what is going on. From what I see it looks like the hp fuel pump has failed again but what would cause this after only being used for a month and only at the weekends when I was at home as the mrs didn't feel she was ready to get back on the road.

Does anyone know is there is a relay for the hp pump or anything the might cause it to fail.

Please see pics an vid of errors an live data.

11 hours ago, BigSmiffy said:

So im baffled to hell as to what is going on. From what I see it looks like the hp fuel pump has failed again but what would cause this after only being used for a month and only at the weekends when I was at home as the mrs didn't feel she was ready to get back on the road.

Does anyone know is there is a relay for the hp pump or anything the might cause it to fail.

There isn't a relay for the pump. It's completely mechanical. However the flow from the pump is controlled by the Fuel Pressure Regulator. That could have a poor electrical connection to trigger the P0087 code. We can see pressure is dropping in and out on the live data pic.

Two things can break a new pump quickly. First one is contaminated fuel. The pump is lubricated by diesel, if anything other than clean diesel goes through it, it will wear out. The second one is metal filings from the old HP pump. They'll wreck a new pump straight away if they're still on the high pressure side and not cleaned out properly.

Did you confirm the low pressure pump is working? The HP pump won't have enough fuel to pressurise if not.

Crank speed looks ok, it might benefit from a booster pack just to get it going again the first time, but the fuel pressure is way too low for 250RPM so that is definitely the cause of the non-start here.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

There isn't a relay for the pump. It's completely mechanical. However the flow from the pump is controlled by the Fuel Pressure Regulator. That could have a poor electrical connection to trigger the P0087 code. We can see pressure is dropping in and out on the live data pic.

Two things can break a new pump quickly. First one is contaminated fuel. The pump is lubricated by diesel, if anything other than clean diesel goes through it, it will wear out. The second one is metal filings from the old HP pump. They'll wreck a new pump straight away if they're still on the high pressure side and not cleaned out properly.

Did you confirm the low pressure pump is working? The HP pump won't have enough fuel to pressurise if not.

Crank speed looks ok, it might benefit from a booster pack just to get it going again the first time, but the fuel pressure is way too low for 250RPM so that is definitely the cause of the non-start here.

Right ok so im starting to understand a hell of a lot more.

Pretty sure the fuel isn't going to be contaminated as when I got it started before with the new hp pump it jad less than 1/4 of a tank then i filled it to 3/4 run it till 1/4 again then filled to full now its back down to 1/4 so in my opinion it wouldn't be contaminated.

If im correct the fuel pressure regulator is the part that bolts onto the bottom of the hp pump that the electric connector plugs into. As it happens I have a spare one as when I got the new hp pump the connector was broken so the company sent me a baned new one and by chance I kept the old one I actually did swap them over yesterday to see if that had failed but it made no difference. Do you know if there is a way to test the electric connection to see its getting the right power to the regulator?

The intank pump seams to be working as you can hear it prime for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on, so I would assume that its working correctly.

Is there a way to test a hp pump so I can see if that has failed again?

Thank you for all you help so far we are getting there an im sure we will sort it soon.

3 minutes ago, BigSmiffy said:

Right ok so im starting to understand a hell of a lot more.

Pretty sure the fuel isn't going to be contaminated as when I got it started before with the new hp pump it jad less than 1/4 of a tank then i filled it to 3/4 run it till 1/4 again then filled to full now its back down to 1/4 so in my opinion it wouldn't be contaminated.

If im correct the fuel pressure regulator is the part that bolts onto the bottom of the hp pump that the electric connector plugs into. As it happens I have a spare one as when I got the new hp pump the connector was broken so the company sent me a baned new one and by chance I kept the old one I actually did swap them over yesterday to see if that had failed but it made no difference. Do you know if there is a way to test the electric connection to see its getting the right power to the regulator?

The intank pump seams to be working as you can hear it prime for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on, so I would assume that its working correctly.

Is there a way to test a hp pump so I can see if that has failed again?

Thank you for all you help so far we are getting there an im sure we will sort it soon.

Yes, the FPR is as you describe. You would need a multimeter to test the wiring between the FPR plug and the PCM.

Generally FPR's have two wires. One should be a solid 12v with ignition on. The other is grounded through the PCM, with a variable resistance to change the position of the FPR solenoid based on desired fuel pressure. Not easy to test the ground wire due to the variations.

HP pump can't really be tested separately from the FPR. The basic test for a HP pump is just a manual pressure gauge on the pump outlet. That just measures exactly the same thing as the fuel rail pressure sensor. So it depends on whether you think we can trust the FRPS readings or not. If it's the rail sensor voltage dropping in & out then that may cause the same symptoms on the pressure graph. But the max pressure at 650kpa seems very steady, so I'm not convinced the pressure sensor is the issue here yet.

Personally, I would still want to test low pressure flow rate from a pipe connection after the filter. It is possible that you picked up a bad batch of diesel that's clogged the filter already. It sounds like the tank pump is working though so hopefully we can rule that one out.