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Titanium rear parking sensors

Featured Replies

Hi. 

I've just bought a 61 plate Titanium Focus and I was shocked to see that it didn't come with rear parking sensors, although that wasn't a deal breaker for the car. 

Since looking under the car I've noticed from the right hand side there is a wiring connector hanging under the car which I assume could only be for parking sensors?

Is this correct and would a Titanium 2011 have come with them as standard or has the car has a new bumper and they've not bothered with them again?

How easy, and expensive,  would it be to get the sensors and fit them in the bumper if this is indeed the parking sensor connector hanging under the car?



Mk3 Titanium's didn't come with parking sensors as standard.  The optional 'City Pack' included powerfolding wing mirrors and rear park pilot.  

The rear parking sensor plug is on the right hand side so probably is the one you've seen.

I'm not sure of ease or cost to retrofit the genuine sensors but you would also need the PDC module as well as sensors and loom.

  • Author

Ah that's me out then! Yes noticed I also didn't have folding mirrors so that makes sense now. Tbh for a Titanium spec I don't think Ford have gone overboard with the goodies. 

Thanks Tom. 

8 minutes ago, fladavid said:

Ah that's me out then! Yes noticed I also didn't have folding mirrors so that makes sense now. Tbh for a Titanium spec I don't think Ford have gone overboard with the goodies. 

Thanks Tom. 

You could fit the aftermarket Xtrons kit cheaper than the OE kit if you still want the rear sensors.  They just beep rather than showing up visually in the dash screen like the OE ones would though.

The Mk3 Titanium was better specced than the Mk2 facelift Titanium in fairness.  Cruise and climate became standard on the Mk3.  The Titanium X got front and rear parking sensors with 'hands free' automatic parking (park assist), as well as xenon headlights and half leather seats.

Yep titanium didn't come with sensors, I got city pack with mine. 

  • Author

Tbh I was only going to do it if it was all there ready to go apart from the actual sensors in the bumper. 

Wanted to really add a dashcam but don't like the wires on view across the windscreen and into the 12v socket. Do any of you guys know if I could hard wire it to the fuse box. I know nextbase do a hardwire kit but don't know which fuse is a spare and would provide a permanent live for the dashcam to be left in the car to protect against people biting the car whilst parking. 

  • Author

HITTING lol not biting. That would make for some intertwined interesting footage!

Yes, it's easy to hardwire and hide the wires in the Mk3. 

Not sure which fuse is best as I have mine on switched live.  I'm nervous about it getting stuck on and draining the battery one night lol.

  • Author

I think the nextbase hardwire kit has a gizmo on it that stops the drain on the battery and only starts the cam when it feels a knock. So they say!!!

40 minutes ago, fladavid said:

I think the nextbase hardwire kit has a gizmo on it that stops the drain on the battery and only starts the cam when it feels a knock.

Yes it does, but as Tom said, much better to wire it to a 'switched feed'. Even if you don't hard wire it, it's really easy to hide the cable with a 12v socket into the headliner for a much neater installation rather than trailing it over your dashboard. I've done this with 2 x previous cars...

2 hours ago, fladavid said:

I think the nextbase hardwire kit has a gizmo on it that stops the drain on the battery and only starts the cam when it feels a knock. So they say!!!

That's the theory yeah, and lots of people do use dashcams in that way without a problem.  I just don't trust my cheap Chinese camera to work 100% and would rather be safe than sorry!

  • Author

Is there room in the headliner for that then, and can you access it easily?

31 minutes ago, fladavid said:

Is there room in the headliner for that then, and can you access it easily?

It's the cable that goes in the headliner, NOT the 12v socket LOL I think from memory, I had to buy a USB extension cable to track it on one of my cars, the other, the supplied cable was long enough...

  • Author
3 hours ago, StephenFord said:

It's the cable that goes in the headliner, NOT the 12v socket LOL I think from memory, I had to buy a USB extension cable to track it on one of my cars, the other, the supplied cable was long enough...

Yes I know that I meant is there room for the cable without distorting the headlining or stopping it clipping back in place?

7 hours ago, fladavid said:

Yes I know that I meant is there room for the cable without distorting the headlining or stopping it clipping back in place?

I'd be shocked if it didn't, have hidden such a cable in a Toyota GT4, a Mercedes C class, and now my Mk2 Focus, all had plenty of room for a small cable. (Indeed my old Merc had enough space for a mouse to make it's home which I discovered when replacing the courtesy light and seeing lots of shredded up old petrol receipts from a previous owner!)

Plenty of space, I didn't even drop the headlining, just poked it underneath (err, technically above I suppose lol)

IMG_20180201_104712970_HDR.thumb.jpg.a2b33f5a4f441ae3a67b708f113fa548.jpg

Switched live piggyback fuse:

IMG_20180201_092440484.thumb.jpg.020f442e0c9c5f0d1d4f0868f79224a8.jpg

Earthed to door post:

IMG_20180130_160802705.thumb.jpg.396adcc787ba138352b017ce704bbded.jpg

Basically invisible from outside:

IMG_20180201_104736859.thumb.jpg.cda7b0d8425b32aa97f539ccf51c9031.jpg

  • Author

That looks neat. Does the headliner just unclip easily from the roof? Is there a gap at the side of the dashboard, between the door rubber and dash, to route the cable down to the fuse box?

Start at the bottom, behind the dash near the fuse box. Open the door and pull off the rubber seal from the A pillar and there is room to feed the wire up the pillar, to the headlining, without removing any of the hard plastic trim. Then there is a gap at the front of the headlining above the windscreen, you can just shove the wire into the gap with your fingers again without removing the headlining or any hard plastic trim. Job done.  

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