Here is what I know.

When the hood is open, all doors closed , the key is not in the ignition and all lights are off the overall draw at the -ve battery post is 350 mA

When the hood is open, the LH front door is open, the key is not in the ignition and all lights are off I have power to the following

fuses in the fuse board underneath the dash in the passenger footwell (UK RHD).

F39 Cigar lighter, rear auxiliary power socket
F41 Door module (passenger door)
F43 Electronic modules (battery supply)
F44 OBD II (board computer diagnostics)
F49 Headlight switch
F50 Fuel pump
F52 Rear window defroster
F55 Door module (driver door), central locking system
F56 Keyless entry system
F57 Alarm horn
F58 Audio modules (battery supply)
F59 Luggage compartment auxiliary power socket, trailer tow module
F62 Power windows
F77 Central locking relays
F80 Interior lights, outside rear view mirrors
F81 Door module (right-hand rear)
F82 Door module (left-hand rear)
F83 CD-changer, rear seat entertainment (RSE)

Do any of you see anything odd about this list given the circumstances.

Any villains and culprits in this list you may be familiar with?

I have not yet tested for current at each one of these fuses. I need to knock up an adapter.

Would appreciate some input from those who have trodden this path.

 

Fuse box layout attached.

Thanks

do you have a dash cam ?

 

 

2 hours ago, RayPooley said:

When the hood is open, the LH front door is open,

There is no quick way of finding the culprit other than putting a current meter in series with one of the battery leads and then pulling each fuse in turn until the current drops to about 80mA or less.

After switching off and then installing a current meter in the battery supply you need to wait at least 20 minutes before you begin testing, as it takes at least that long for all modules to enter sleep mode. Make sure to have the all the interior lights turned off when you have the door open.

You're nearly there actually. At least you know you actually have a parasitic draw.

2 hours ago, RayPooley said:

have not yet tested for current at each one of these fuses. I need to knock up an adapter.

You don't need to knock up an adapter, setup your multimeter as you did to measure the current and place it on the windscreen so you can see it inside the car. Then start removing fuses one by one until that current drops off significantly. Once this happens you've narrowed that list of 20 circuits down to 1 circuit.

Another trick is to just measure the volts between the -ve terminal post and the chassis earth.  It will only be mV, but it will give you a good indication, without putting your meter at risk.

You can also volt drop across your live fuses, if you're reading voltage it's pulling current. It'll be in mV as well. 

 

18 hours ago, MasterTechTip said:

You can also volt drop across your live fuses, if you're reading voltage it's pulling current. It'll be in mV as well. 

Now why the hell didn't I think of that???? Doooohh!! 

All you need is the mini fuse resistance (the normal ones are about 2 ohms), the voltage drop and I have the current. 

Thanks for that.

 

Thanks for the responses people.

Sorry for the delay getting back to you all. I was expecting a notification when you responded but I didn't actually get any.

Just checked in on spec, to see if it had at least been viewed, and found your replies.

To be honest all of the items on that list are items I would expect to be powered without the key in the ignition switch.

Not my car it's my neighbours. I did start pulling fuses in the footwell while he was looking at the meter. I tried to explain to him what I was looking to

happen as I was pulling them but he just didn't get it. Couldn't read the meter. "What do you mean POINT?" I kid you not.  Really annoying.

He has an aftermarket radio. So F58 maybe. Or F39 the rear cigarette lighter.

So, great idea from MasterTechTip. I'll hit that at the weekend.

Thanks again for taking the time.

Appreciate it.