Hi all, car is a 2009 Focus 1.6 petrol MK2.5.

Car was purchased for my son who was learning to drive in his Fiesta but that is really too small for him. Was purchased almost 2 months ago from a dealer but car not used as was waiting for him to pass his test which unfortunately was a fail 😞 Car came with a 3 month warranty so thought best to start using the vehicle now he has another years no claims and no admin charge to swap vehicle over as change of vehicle on renewal. So onto the problem(s)

Speakers not working (minor annoyance)

This according to the dealer was a fuse but not aware of any fuses for amps so not sure where this diagnosis came from. As only minor I found that 3 speakers were dead and also the wiring into the doors (rear and drivers) was faulty contact cleaner required on connections. Easy fix and not worth worrying about and upgraded speakers which most youngsters want anyway so no problems there apart from "fuse" diagnosis from dealer. Happy to take this one on the chin an only mentioned in relation to diagnosis for the next fault below.

AC not working

When purchased the communication with the dealer was that AC was ice cold and had just been regassed (this to me is alarm bells as should not need regas if no leak). Assumption made that as vehicle comes with a warranty and part of the selling point was working AC that any problems thereafter in the warranty period would be sorted. Have reported the non working AC and first response was fuse or relay :-) I am more thinking that AC was filled when it is actually leaking. So onto the technical side :-) Does the AC on a MK2.5 have a simple pressure switch or is it ECU controlled with PIDS? If simple pressure switch where is it and is it open if you have pressure or closed as simple test with a meter should be easy diagnosis if gas has gone. If 3 prong (ecu controlled) can FORSCAN read the PID if not what pin is what and what is the correct voltage for it to allow the clutch to operate? 

Knocking when changing gear 

So driving around as you would on a car that unfamiliar with then there is no knocking. However driving more spirited on fast changes from 1st to 2nd there is a clunk/vibration what is a common fault for this symptom please.

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

1 hour ago, scoobydo said:

Hi all, car is a 2009 Focus 1.6 petrol MK2.5.

Car was purchased for my son who was learning to drive in his Fiesta but that is really too small for him. Was purchased almost 2 months ago from a dealer but car not used as was waiting for him to pass his test which unfortunately was a fail 😞 Car came with a 3 month warranty so thought best to start using the vehicle now he has another years no claims and no admin charge to swap vehicle over as change of vehicle on renewal. So onto the problem(s)

Speakers not working (minor annoyance)

This according to the dealer was a fuse but not aware of any fuses for amps so not sure where this diagnosis came from. As only minor I found that 3 speakers were dead and also the wiring into the doors (rear and drivers) was faulty contact cleaner required on connections. Easy fix and not worth worrying about and upgraded speakers which most youngsters want anyway so no problems there apart from "fuse" diagnosis from dealer. Happy to take this one on the chin an only mentioned in relation to diagnosis for the next fault below.

AC not working

When purchased the communication with the dealer was that AC was ice cold and had just been regassed (this to me is alarm bells as should not need regas if no leak). Assumption made that as vehicle comes with a warranty and part of the selling point was working AC that any problems thereafter in the warranty period would be sorted. Have reported the non working AC and first response was fuse or relay :-) I am more thinking that AC was filled when it is actually leaking. So onto the technical side 🙂 Does the AC on a MK2.5 have a simple pressure switch or is it ECU controlled with PIDS? If simple pressure switch where is it and is it open if you have pressure or closed as simple test with a meter should be easy diagnosis if gas has gone. If 3 prong (ecu controlled) can FORSCAN read the PID if not what pin is what and what is the correct voltage for it to allow the clutch to operate? 

Knocking when changing gear 

So driving around as you would on a car that unfamiliar with then there is no knocking. However driving more spirited on fast changes from 1st to 2nd there is a clunk/vibration what is a common fault for this symptom please.

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

There is an audio fuse in the passenger side foot well which probably popped with the bad wiring. As for the AC if the refrigerant falls more than 15% and is not regularly serviced that can cause issues. I would first check the pollen filter has been changed cos if it dirty is will be causing unnecessary strain on the entire system. The condenser might be dirty and not able to remove the heat properly which means removing the bumper and cleaning it carefully taking care not to damage the fins. The evaporator may have a leak or may be dirty and this involves removing the dashboard for access so just hope it's not that. The Compressor could be failing as its not been lubricated. The blower motor could be failing or a fuse has gone. A faulty blend door actuator which results in ticking noises under the dashboard. As for the clunk I would check the rear trailing arm bushes (bananas),  all four front and rear sway bar links and the exhaust mount near the flexi.

Thanks @FOCUE no fuse had popped  (is there really one on the speaker wiring never heard of that or just for the audio)as cleaning the contacts on the connectors where they enter the pillars and changing the speakers solved that issue :-) Radio was working but only the left hand front speaker was working and right front tweeter both rear speaker were open circuit. BTW didnt find that fault on the test drive as I am hard of hearing on the right handside 😞

Car is back home now and the rear exhaust wobbles all over the place so need to get underneath and have a look why that is like that but not tonight as it is very wet out there.

AC Issue is quite obvious under UV light see links below :-) When I purchased the car I changed the pollen filter just because not knowing the history if it had been done not because it wasnt working. So  fault was present on purchase and doubt the system held vacuum for long or was a DIY fill 😞 AC was explained as ICE cold and had just been refilled and was working at the time of purchase. Car had been started once a week just to charge battery but AC left off so as not to cause more load so could have gone wrong more or less anytime after purchase.

 

Let me know if the links work for you?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12CcKFXjBrXePq1O5depaaCzSl7dOCs5H/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/127FeMljTwwLU43IShzbKCma0jt6sJhMk/view?usp=sharing

 

 

 

 

 

 

3 hours ago, scoobydo said:

Thanks @FOCUE no fuse had popped  (is there really one on the speaker wiring never heard of that or just for the audio)as cleaning the contacts on the connectors where they enter the pillars and changing the speakers solved that issue 🙂 Radio was working but only the left hand front speaker was working and right front tweeter both rear speaker were open circuit. BTW didnt find that fault on the test drive as I am hard of hearing on the right handside 😞

Car is back home now and the rear exhaust wobbles all over the place so need to get underneath and have a look why that is like that but not tonight as it is very wet out there.

AC Issue is quite obvious under UV light see links below 🙂 When I purchased the car I changed the pollen filter just because not knowing the history if it had been done not because it wasnt working. So  fault was present on purchase and doubt the system held vacuum for long or was a DIY fill 😞 AC was explained as ICE cold and had just been refilled and was working at the time of purchase. Car had been started once a week just to charge battery but AC left off so as not to cause more load so could have gone wrong more or less anytime after purchase.

 

Let me know if the links work for you?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12CcKFXjBrXePq1O5depaaCzSl7dOCs5H/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/127FeMljTwwLU43IShzbKCma0jt6sJhMk/view?usp=sharing

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes they do and that is very cool. It's looks like some sort of leaks going on on down there.

Cool it isnt just like my aircon :-) So looking very much like it is leaking at joins who has a schematic detailing the oring sizes please?

You are fortunate in one thing - it was bought from a dealer so you have more rights than from a private seller.  I only ever bought a car once where I was told the A/C needed a regas, yes it did, along with a new condenser, and a replacement compressor. Cost me a fortune but a lesson learned. If you were told specifically it had working A/C, and it doesn't, that a clear breach of consumer legislation. You could be entitled to your money back, but the very least, they should be sorting this out for you, even though you sound competent enough to have a bash yourself..

Thanks Stephen. Yes in the communications about the car AC was discussed and ws told fully working which it was at the time but between week 2 of owning and week 7 it has stopped working. Dealer got stupid when I reported to him yesterday telling me I clearly dont want the car anymore which is the exact opposite. New condenser is cheap as chips and  likely just clean up of the leaking union at the top and new orings and it will be fine. However as you say dealer should sort. He reckons wear and tear! I would not have purchased the vehicle without a warranty and 100pc would expect that seeing that the AC had been "gassed" and was described as ice cold as it had just been serviced then that forms part of the contract of sale. 

The car was an insurance write off for small dent on roofline so probably purchased for £300 and dealer puts mark up on with only costs is quick valet and "illegal" aircon refill for the purpose of selling when the weather was hot!

You got any ideas where I can find the Oring sizes please

5 minutes ago, scoobydo said:

You got any ideas where I can find the Oring sizes please

I personally don't, but plenty of real clever guys on this forum, so one bound to chip in soon. I'm sure you know you can buy an assortment of A/C O rings from Halfords?

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/air-con/halfords-air-con-o-rings-187396.html

Yeah I already have a box of orings but have to get lucky to get the correct ones.

Here is a thread that someone chimed in with the sizes for a mk1.5 focus maybe the same required for the MK2.5

HR1 is Finis code 6918663 (15.67mm x 1.93mm) & approx £2.00.

HR2 is Finis code 3956589 (8.75mm x 2.0mm) & approx £1.50.

HR3 is Finis code 6753636 (12.93mm x 1.86mm) & approx £1.00.

HR4 is Finis code 4105339 (10.16mm x 1.85mm) & approx £3.00.

For the seals on a full system you need 1x HR1, 1x HR2, 2x HR3 & 2x HR4.

So likely that the clunk on gear changes is the below. The rear pipe has broken from the hanger as has the front downpipe. Given the level of rust an corrosion this hasnt just happened in the less than 200 miles the car has been driven and if it has then still should sort IMO. Just needs cleaning up and welding not a big deal.  

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Tip53Nj6PSOIUyxWspMMipYRhQCWt4w/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ko2yEnn0u17Lm4Ofa5ipe6UM-OPh2tE/view?usp=sharing

 

2 minutes ago, scoobydo said:

So likely that the clunk on gear changes is the below. The rear pipe has broken from the hanger as has the front downpipe. Given the level of rust an corrosion this hasnt just happened in the less than 200 miles the car has been driven and if it has then still should sort IMO. Just needs cleaning up and welding not a big deal.  

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Tip53Nj6PSOIUyxWspMMipYRhQCWt4w/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ko2yEnn0u17Lm4Ofa5ipe6UM-OPh2tE/view?usp=sharing

 

Yes when I had a MK2.5 I had mines welded and they lasted for years after that.

Dealer perhaps slept on it as has sent me a msg today saying he will call me tomorrow to discuss. I would have took the exhaust on the chin if he hadnt been so defensive saying driven over a pothole blah blah, ac is a fuse or relay, speakers is a fuse or fader control and car is 13 years old and fair wear and tear and it seems to him that the car is no longer needed and I want to back it to him 😞 This really isnt the case at all. I reported the faults as soon as aware and said I would bring it back to him for sorting and then went straight on the defense, quite bad form I would say but maybe yesterday was a bad day for him so will give the benefit of the doubt.

Decent repair to the front exhaust mount would be £50 or so if you can find someone with time to do it. Welding is the one thing that I havent got the equipment to do unfortunately. Same with the AC cannot evacuate system and effect repairs. Maybe whoever gassed it for him should do it, I would say 2hrs labour max.

BTW car was sold with new MOT,  exhaust must have been like this as you can tell by the level of corrosion it is not a clean recent break. Not that is bothers me as I know MOT is only as good as on the day just a further FYi.

Also found this but it is in the States so might not be the correct part/set. Can anyone look it up?

SKU: 28812-05383750

A/C Line O-Ring Kit -- Expansion Valve Seal Kit Contains 6 O-Rings

Orings are off the shelf in my local dealer :-)