Hi All,

I think I need a new alternator..

I've a 2013 1.0 focus ecoboost; Initially when I purchased the car the stop/start was always disabled so I reset it and it worked fine for a month or so. (I thought new battery as it was the ford original coming up to 10 years old) and so left it disabled

Then 1 day I noticed that the lights for park assist, parking sensors would flicker randomly. just as I go in the car; on long journeys.

Then the ABS and traction control light (red) came on and the lights were flickering. A quick google said that this all leads to a bad battery or alternator.

I've replaced the battery (and reset) and I'm still seeing the lights flicker; some times it will disable stop/start and I can't use park assist.

Before I replace the alternator can anyone give me any advise on this? attached is a graph of the voltage when the engine cuts off with stop/start and re-starts when I dip the clutch. Is that normal as it looks very low to me.

Tomorrow I will measure the battery voltage on the battery; engine off and on. I also saw somewhere to test the alternator you can start the engine and discount the battery; if it stalls new battery.

Thanks for any help

I'm no auto electrician, but if you are seeing up to 15.5V, I would say your alternator is working?

34 minutes ago, tomo2001 said:

I'm no auto electrician, but if you are seeing up to 15.5V, I would say your alternator is working?

You're right! The only thing I can think is that the alternator is starting to fail; Might have to plug in and go for a drive until the light flickers and hope that I capture something meaningful to diagnose.

Stop/Start... @unofixwill be along shortly...

Your alternator is working 100% fine and if you recently replaced the battery I'm sure it will also be fine although it probably could do with a good charge for 12 hours.

 

Just out of interest I'd like to ask a question, this is by no means meant as a test of knowledge just I'd like to get an understanding of how people think Stop/Start is controlled

The question: How many things/conditions have to be fulfilled in the vehicles many management systems before the Stop/Start system will operate ?

(a) 2 conditions only

(b) 3 to 10 conditions

(c) 11 to 35 conditions

(d) 36 or more conditions have to be met

 

 

OK, I'll shut up, you've told me the answer before LOL

 

Speaking of Stop/Start mine's working again as of yesterday eve . No , not got a clue as to why it stopped and/or why it started working again other than maybe there's been a little less drain on the battery during the last week (i.e. car parked Mum listening to the radio while I'm off running errands) 

57 minutes ago, unofix said:

Your alternator is working 100% fine and if you recently replaced the battery I'm sure it will also be fine although it probably could do with a good charge for 12 hours.

 

Just out of interest I'd like to ask a question, this is by no means meant as a test of knowledge just I'd like to get an understanding of how people think Stop/Start is controlled

The question: How many things/conditions have to be fulfilled in the vehicles many management systems before the Stop/Start system will operate ?

(a) 2 conditions only

(b) 3 to 10 conditions

(c) 11 to 35 conditions

(d) 36 or more conditions have to be met

 

 

Thanks for confirming my alternator is working 🙂

A guess would be c

I'll see if I can get a video of the buttons flickering tomorrow.

 

1 hour ago, plasticpat said:

Speaking of Stop/Start mine's working again as of yesterday eve . No , not got a clue as to why it stopped and/or why it started working again other than maybe there's been a little less drain on the battery during the last week (i.e. car parked Mum listening to the radio while I'm off running errands) 

Global warming is why it is working again, milder weather lol 😂

Here is a video of the lights flickering.

https://jmp.sh/edPJo2uK

Started the car after not using for <24 hours. Within 2 minutes the yellow abs and traction control lights came on. Auto stop/start disabled.

5 minutes later the lights go out..

The clip is after 20 minutes of driving.

Anyone seen anything like this before?

Edited January 9, 20233 yr by supajason
Spelling

I suspect there is a problem of corrupt data on the Canbus.

You need to connect up FORScan and take a look at the Canbus signals. You also need to check the resistance of the Canbus which should 60 ohms.

Is this going to be a green crusty search??!! Could be!!

Bad earth?!

6 hours ago, VFR800 said:

Is this going to be a green crusty search??!! Could be!!

Bad earth?!

I think it will be either the solder joint problem on the back of the instrument cluster or water ingress in to the Body Control Module causing the green corrosion of the contact pins in the connectors. I'm just a little surprised that on a 2013 model the OP could have either problem but it certainly looks like it. A simple resistance check of the Canbus at the OBDII port may give a clue to which is the most likely issue.

Thanks both, I will look into this and let you know