Been quoted over £420 for a genuine Ford or around £280 for an aftermarket ( Banner brand ) - fitted prices   There is a Bosch online for around £160 and was thinking of fitting myself.  It is surprising how many sites are coming up 'sorry we don't have anything for your car'....

Any recommendations greatly appreciated

Thanks

Mike

Many of us here on the forum have bought replacement batteries from Tayna.

Ford don't actually make batteries, they are simply just Varta batteries rebranded with the Ford logo.

Many of us prefer to use Yuasa batteries as they seem to offer more power for a given physical size (or at least the same).

https://www.tayna.co.uk/

Thanks Unofix - I had seen those but great to get recommendations

Anyone used a 'battery memory saver' device to save the radio stations etc. or is there a backup battery for that on the Edge? 

 I feel fairly confident I could change the battery out after watching some videos, and it seems vital to run the battery reset routine immediately after changing it so the charging is recalibrated, but anyone had any problems switching out themselves?

I have changed many batteries over the years, the only one that was a bit of a pain was a Kuga 2010 but other than that all were changed in less than 20 minutes.

Personally I don't recommend the use of any type of "keep alive" system when changing batteries over. There is a risk of shorting the battery positive lead to the chassis which would instantly blow the fuse in the battery saver, so the benefit (if there is one) would be lost. Most radios these days will remember the preset stations when the battery is disconnected and of course they don't require a code anymore.

When you get a new battery, make sure you charge it for 12 hours before you fit it to the car. Then once fitted and the job is finished reset the BMS.

On 3/29/2023 at 8:13 PM, unofix said:

How to reset the BMS method 1

 

 

On 3/29/2023 at 8:14 PM, unofix said:

How to reset the BMS method 2

 

 

Thanks!  I haven't had any warnings come up, but the heated windscreen was a bit lame last winter and I recently noticed the Stop Start wasn't working ( thankfully... ) which I am equating to the original battery getting to end of life.  The car often only gets a run at the weekends so that is probably tough on it. 

I will give it a go myself ta

On 11/2/2023 at 2:28 PM, undercoveredge said:

which I am equating to the original battery getting to end of life. 

Have you tried putting that battery on a conditioner? Did that with mine when it died after 1 year ... same battery is still going strong 6 years later! Worth a try and may save a few quid!

1 hour ago, simonb65 said:

Did that with mine when it died after 1 year ...

Why didn't you get a new replacement battery since the car would have been under warranty ?

23 hours ago, simonb65 said:

Have you tried putting that battery on a conditioner? Did that with mine when it died after 1 year ... same battery is still going strong 6 years later! Worth a try and may save a few quid!

What's a battery conditioner? Do you mean a trickle charger?

26 minutes ago, Pete Terry said:

What's a battery conditioner? Do you mean a trickle charger?

@StephenFord

1 hour ago, iantt said:

@StephenFord

I'm often accused of having shares in this company, you know, sometimes I wish I had LOL

MayPole batery charger

1 hour ago, Pete Terry said:

What's a battery conditioner? Do you mean a trickle charger?

A battery conditioner is the next step up from a simple trickle or fast charger. It measures the capacity of the battery after charging, it also tests the battery before charging to see what state it's in and during charging the charge profile is adjusted to get the best out of the battery. Once charged, the conditioning charger will places small load on the battery and cyclically charge/discharge near the top of the charging curve. This last step maintains the battery and also checks that the state of charge actually reaches 100%, and that it can maintain that charge (i.e that battery internal resistance is good).

CTEK (CT5, MSX), Oxford (Oximiser, Maximiser) and many other brands make conditioning chargers, and they aren't much more expensive than most fast/trickle chargers ... but they are way better for your battery and in some cases can recover batteries that would otherwise be deemed dead and ready for the bin!

So why didn't you get a free replacement battery while your car was only a year old ? 🤔

If you had a battery that needed all this special attention to bring it back from the dead I know that I'd have insisted on a replacement.

Bought a Yuasa battery on Thursday evening from Tayna - via their e bay store which had a 5% code.  Arrived yesterday, topped up the charge last night, just been out there and swapped it out in about half an hour - and I drank 2 coffees during that time!     I watched a few videos, got a a bit paranoid about disconnecting the positive first ( which I have seen on videos due to access ) so did it negative first by pulling the battery forward first.   

One thing I recommend is to to take the whole air intake off rather than just the lid, it takes less than a minute but give you a load of space to work in - 2 bolts and just pulls out, just make sure you note how it sits in the rubber grommets on the underside.  The 5 flashes/3 brake stomps worked first time too to re-calibrate.   In all honesty , the biggest pain was pulling the cable clips out on the loom that was running across the front of the battery which was preventing me sliding the battery forward - not a biggy.

I do have a CTEK re-conditioner ( which I have just put on the removed battery out of interest ) - I maybe should have tried that first, but it is 6+ years old, only has occasional use and I think £150 is worth it for piece of mind, especially as the labour was free 😉 

Thanks for all the advice

On 11/4/2023 at 7:26 PM, unofix said:

So why didn't you get a free replacement battery while your car was only a year old ? 🤔

If you had a battery that needed all this special attention to bring it back from the dead I know that I'd have insisted on a replacement.

Because I'm an electronics engineer, know battery technologies and have worked for one of the leading manufacturers of construction machinery in the UK and now have my own company sub-contracting electronics to Ford! Batteries fitted to production vehicles and construction machines are generally fitted in a 'long term' shelf storage or shipping stat. They are not optimised for state of charge ... so, shipped from the factory in Canada, the battery SoC would not be 100% and the BMS would not be optimal. So, I knew the battery just needed some TLC and correctly conditioning! Blindly getting a replacement would have just replaced it with a battery in a similar un-optimised state.

Batteries are the biggest warranty return item, other than hydraulic hoses in most construction machines ... for exactly the same reason! When they were returned, the first check is to condition and test capacity, which in most cases results in a 'No fault found' and the dealerships ended up covering the warranty cost, not the manufacturer.

Hi All,

Having to charge up my battery every couple of weeks now.

Radio fails to work and the collision sensor beeps sounding weird which is my indication that the battery is low (heated screen and start stop never works, just a day or 2 only after charging)

The link on the post above gives 3 batteries that seem to the same spec as what I am seeing on my battery - 80ah and 800caa.

However many sites I have tried are giving me results for 75ah - 730caa. These are showing to be a 110 type battery.

The link asks me if my battery is a 115 (not a 110 as the other sites suggest). Looking my battery there is no reference to either 110 or 115.

I am looking at the Bosch S5A11, all other site suggestions the S4E10.

Can you confirm which model you have purchased, thinking the Bosch S5A11 will be fine just thinking it may be little higher in size