Hi Everyone,

New here and I've done some scouring but I can't find anything that really relates to my problem.

I bought a 2014 Mondeo earlier in the year. When I bought the car I kept getting a warning on the dash for a low battery. 

Since then I got the battery and alternator replaced, that message disappeared, but randomly the battery light would come on for a few minutes most journeys. As everything seemed fine I just ignored it (probably a mistake).

On a couple of occasions now the car has gone mental when going to ignition. Lights flashing, horn/alarm going off/ won't start etc. First time the battery had to be disconnected, then everything was fine for about 4,000 miles. It did it again last night but this time I could hear a clicking from either the fuse box in behind the glovebox, or the one near the battery..hard to tell which. 

I deadlocked the car a couple times and eventually it calmed down and fired up so I could move it. This morning it's fired up fine as if nothing has happened. 

When it happened the first time I found something about the washer fluid pump actually pumping fluid into the BCM, so I changed the pump in the hope this would stop any more fluid going into the BCM and prevent this happening again, but this doesn't appear to have made a difference. Is it likely that the BCM is already too far gone and that is what's causing this? Or could it be something else?

Anything I research just throws up issues regarding bad battery/alternator which I don't think this is based on them being new. Anyone have any ideas on this one as it's got me stumped.

Many thanks,

Mark 

Doubtful if  it's the cluster fault, check all the connections into the fuse box and make sure there's no water ingress from anywhere and the contacts are good and not tarnished, also check the multiple earth straps fitted. HTH. I'd be inclined to go with a damaged fuse box.

Just been out to it and checked the fuses and box, all looked good apart form the horn fuse was bust. Now it wont start and got this error:

 

1 hour ago, MarkSims said:

When it happened the first time I found something about the washer fluid pump actually pumping fluid into the BCM, so I changed the pump in the hope this would stop any more fluid going into the BCM and prevent this happening again, but this doesn't appear to have made a difference. Is it likely that the BCM is already too far gone and that is what's causing this? Or could it be something else?

I would expect that there has been quite an amount of corrosion and damage caused to the BCM by water from the screen wash pump traveling along inside of the wires. You may need a replacement Body Control Module and also new wiring to the pump, since once the water has got inside the wires it will cause corrosion and eventually damage the replacement BCM.  

 

This was the original video I'd watched that sent me down the BCM route. Is the BCM hard to remove? I've taken the glove box out but seems quite fiddly to get to the BCM/?

Before working on the BCM, disconnect the negative battery lead.

The BCM and passenger compartment fusebox are a combined unit. You need to remove all of the connectors from the BCM and then the unit can be unlatched and removed. Takes about 20 to 30 minutes but you have to work upside down to be able to reach it 🙁

You need a Windows Laptop and the software FORScan (Free) together with a vLinker FS cable so that you can read all of the Ford specific DTC's. If you have to replace the BCM then you will need FORScan to be able to programme the new unit.

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3T04TC150ODBM&keywords=Vgate+vLinker+FS&qid=1701255713&s=automotive&sprefix=vgate+vlinker+fs%2Cautomotive%2C122&sr=1-4

8 minutes ago, unofix said:

Before working on the BCM, disconnect the negative battery lead.

The BCM and passenger compartment fusebox are a combined unit. You need to remove all of the connectors from the BCM and then the unit can be unlatched and removed. Takes about 20 to 30 minutes but you have to work upside down to be able to reach it 🙁

Figured this would be the case. How do you access the negative lead? I can only see the connector for the positive under the battery cover. I just want to be able to see if there is any corrosion on the BCM before ordering any diagnostic stuff etc.

on Mk2 focus the negative terminal is usually the easy one to get to, see if there's a YouTube for battery removal to get you going

1 hour ago, Jimpster said:

on Mk2 focus the negative terminal is usually the easy one to get to, see if there's a YouTube for battery removal to get you going

Think someone's fitted your battery backwards. 🤔

On Mk2 Focus, you need to remove the air filter box, then unclip the end of the battery box, and that allows the battery to be pulled forward.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Think someone's fitted your battery backwards. 🤔

That explains something. Jimpsters car has 5 reverse gears and only one forward. The engine is running backwards 🤣

will get a pic tomorrow am going under there, daughter says theres an issue with my back lights

 

 

10 minutes ago, Jimpster said:

daughter says theres an issue with my back lights

Little wonder if you have been driving backwards all this time 🤣

@StephenFord can probably recommend some LED upgrades to make your reverse lights seem like headlights 😉

I have some extra bright LED 's as the rear clusters are tinted bought proper non Chinese ones. Along with lights issues the aftermarket Led's I put in the boot are very dim, been advised could be an earth issue.