Hi I have a 2008 Ford Focus CC. I have an odd issue, which try as I might I don't seem to be able to resolve and Ford don't appear to support these cars anymore.

Issue: 
The roof fails to operate and the driver side rear window fails to lower (during the process.) 

Discovery: 
When I try to lower the roof everything sounds as though it is trying to work but the whereas three of the windows lower about an inch, the driver's side rear window does not move (stopping the process from going any further.) On closer inspection the window switch does not even light up.

What I have tried: 
I have disconnected the battery for 20 minutes to allow a reset. Which enabled the window to be operated via the switch next to the window in the back of the car (still unable to operate from the main switch on the driver door or via the roof down/up switch) for about 15 minutes (then I stops working again.) Also, the switch does not have the red back light that the other switches have. I have tried swapping over the rear switches (passenger to drivers side) but this issue remains the same. I have also tried swapping over the control boxes (just behind the back seat at wheel arch level) but this also does not affect the issue. I have looked at the fuses but nothing appears to be blown. Lastly. I have replaced the main controller box in the boot (next to the language divider) but this did not make a difference either.

Lots of info on the Focus CC Roof.

You need to use FORScan to get the information regarding which of the Roof Sensors have a problem.

 

This sounds like a window fault, with the roof being an effect of that.

I think it'll be something to do with the drivers door switch panel or the wiring between that and the GEM.

2 hours ago, Ukeye said:

Which enabled the window to be operated via the switch next to the window in the back of the car

If you get the rear window operating again by doing the reset with the battery, have you tried lowering the window all the way down with the switch and then try opening the roof ?

As Tom has said it could be more of a fault with the window control, but on these cars the roof control and the window operation is very interlinked. It would be useful to know if the roof will operate (both down and back up) if you have got the rear window down.

I will try lowering all the windows tomorrow and get back to you. I will also take the driver side main controller out and see if I can order a replacement. Can you confirm what GEM is? Thanks 

GEM.....

On 4/7/2024 at 4:55 PM, unofix said:

GEM - General Electronic Module. On later models it was replaced by the Body Control Module (BCM).

It is a basic mini computer that controls functions like the Horn, Side Lights, Screen Washer, Brake lights just to give you an idea.

It is part of the passenger compartment fuesbox. The GEM is actually the rear circuit board of the fuesbox, connected by usually 2 or 3 large multi-way connectors. Always disconnect the battery negative lead before removing connectors from the GEM.

 

Thanks for the info and heads up. 

I have now tried lowering all the windows and then trying the roof but it is still not operating. I have also ordered a replacement drivers side windows control unit (7N4T-14A132-AA) to see if that resolves the issue.

How can I tell if the GEM needs replacing? If it is replaced will it need any form of reprograming or is it a case that it can just be swapped over?

I am also looking to the next stage if the issue is not the drivers side control panel. Which will be to replace the GEM (in the front passenger side foot well.) I am looking to purchase a 7M5T-14A073-DC and the seller has said, when asked about the need to program it.

"As long as the part number matches then this should not need re-programming."

Can anyone confirm if this is the case or not? Thanks 

Regards

4 minutes ago, Ukeye said:

"As long as the part number matches then this should not need re-programming."

It will require programming with you own cars "AsBuilt" data.

Think of that part number of the GEM as only for the hardware. The Software may well be different. Different vehicles have different options, such as one may have heated seats and another may have power fold mirrors.

You can use a Windows Laptop and the software FORScan to download the AsBuilt files and to reload the file to the replacement GEM.

Do you have any instrcutions? I have downloaded and installed FORScan and have captured the following info with regards to the roof and sensors (which all appear to be fine, the GEM also tested as okay..) I also have a 2 month trail of the extended license.

PS Could also do with instuctions on how to add a key (if this is possible) as when I had the cluster replaced they only programmed one of the keys.

Okay I think I have worked out how to do both. I have saved the GEM config using the Programing function and saving the data to my laptop and managed to add the second key using the PAS service. Although I cannot get the remote buttons to work for love nor money (I have tryoed the whole open door, switch ignition on and off 4, 6  and 8 times but I never get a tone or the locks poping to suggest that the car is in program mode..) If anyone has any different approaches please let me know...

Number one focus is still the Roof/Window issue. I will report back further once I have the driver door control unit has arrived and been tested.

A replacement drivers side control panel has not made any difference. On to trying a replacement GEM.

I think you will find you have a broken LIN BUS wire between the drivers door and the rear window module.
You should also check that you have a permanent 12v between pin 2 and pin 13 of the rear module.

On 4/17/2024 at 7:36 PM, Ukeye said:

I cannot get the remote buttons to work for love nor money

Remote Transmitter Programming(41 004 0)
1. NOTE: A maximum of eight keyless entry
remote transmitters can be programmed to
the Central Junction Box (CJB).
Programming must be done at the same time
for all the transmitters.
NOTE: To enter programming mode, first make
sure that the vehicle battery is fully charged and
the anti-theft system is not armed or triggered (if
equipped).
NOTE: Make sure the turn signal indicators are in
the OFF position.
Fasten the safety belts and close all doors
to make sure conflicting chimes do not
sound during programming.
2. NOTE: The ignition must be turned to
position II exactly four times during remote
transmitter programming.
Turn the ignition switch from position I to
position II four times exactly within six
seconds.
3. Turn the ignition switch to position 0.
4. An audible chime will be heard to indicate
that it is now possible to programme the
keys for ten seconds.
5. Press and hold one of the buttons on the
remote transmitter until a chime sounds. This
indicates a new transmitter code has been
successfully received.
6. To program additional transmitters, repeat
step 5.
7. The system will leave the learning mode after
the ignition switch is turned to either position
II, or if no new transmitter is programmed
during the 10 seconds, or if eight remote
transmitters have been programmed.

Hi. I have now tried  a replacement GEM and unfortunately it has not made any difference.

With regard to testing the wires. Can you give me any further advice? How do I identify pin 2 and 13? How do I carry out a test? Any advice on how to get to the wires? Are there any tools I need and any instructions on how to use them? (I take I will need a multimeter)

Please also remember that I can get the window for a short while by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and then reconning. After another 10 minutes it will stop operating again. At no point does the light switch illuminated (red back light.) And I have tried swapping out the control units and switches on the opposite side.

8 hours ago, Ukeye said:

How do I carry out a test? Any advice on how to get to the wires? Are there any tools I need and any instructions on how to use them? (I take I will need a multimeter)

This is like me joining a medical forum and asking instructions on how to do a heart transplant !!

You need the services of a qualified auto-electrician.

I am not sure it is. I have already found the following that provides some help. Just need advice on how to identify the pins.

https://youtu.be/cy8BKk4_t98?si=Qi3BZXHFWUtW1SA7

From what I can tell I might need to get the following (Oscilloscope) to assist with reading the signal. But if I can identify the right pins I can look at putting a bypass in place to check. Also it would be good to understand where the cable junctions are to check them as well.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335339387742?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=6kWkLR-yRea&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=zC5LGmLPQr-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This looks really good. Can you add it as a file as some of it is not readable. Thanks for your help.

8 minutes ago, Ukeye said:

This looks really good. Can you add it as a file as some of it is not readable. Thanks for your help.

Click on the image and it will be clearer

If you're viewing on a PC click an image and it will appear enlarged in a pop-up. The cursor will change to a magnifying glass. Click on it again and it will open in a new window (albeit at the same size) and you can then right click and select "Save image as".

Hi All. I have now resolved the issue. The wiring diagrams were really useful. I first ran a separate wire from pin 20 on the front door module to pin 20 on the rear module. Both ends are Grey/Orange. Straight away everything started to work. I then replaced the front door wiring loom which fixed the issue. Thanks everyone for your help.

 

To confirm this ended up being a LIN BUS issue.