I had the timing belt and the front suspension replaced last week, so asked the mechanic to get me a set of steely snow tires as well. After they were done, they advised me to re-tighten the lug nuts after 60 miles or so. Tried to do it and discovered that one of the nuts has seen some "action" and was spinning. The 19mm socket would not fit on it (or fit just enough to make it spin). I then searched here and found that it might be the cap spinning (not the damaged stud which was a relief) and that it's an issue with all Ford nuts.

How did the mechanic manage to tighten this, and weren't they be supposed to let me know about the issue? More importantly, when I replace the snow wheels back, or when I deal with a flat on the road, how do I tighten/loosen this thing (and potentially other nuts)? Thinking now to replace them all -- any recommendations what type and how to remove the problematic nut? Also thinking to get a 19.5 and a 20mm socket, if they exist at all.

This is a bit disappointing -- my old Subaru's lug nuts looked like new at 300k miles.

Are you sure that's a normal nut?  It looks like a locking wheel nut unless it's just an odd pic angle.  Please take a head-on picture to confirm.

This is 100% a "normal" nut after being stripped and buldged (I know this nut soooooo well by now 🙂) The locking nut is still wider and has an additional "rim" on it.

I am thinking to get a 19.5-18.5 split socket to remove this and the remaining nuts. People on youtube have all kinds of tricks to remove spinning capped nuts (including hole saws...)

Found replacement nuts on amazon that claim to be "one-piece steel construction". People seem to like them, but some complain about rust. Some rust is prob OK, and I haven't found any that were one-piece, rust-proof, and did not cost a fortune.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ZOFFI-M12x1-5-Chrome-Factory-Fiesta/dp/B0DDPM13R9?th=1

These cost a fortune (90 quid for 5 nuts!)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/McGard-84537-Chrome-Installation-Thread/dp/B001P280PO

AFAIK, you're supposed to use a different style of wheel nut for steelies than the ones used for alloys. That nut, I think, looks like it's the type with a thin chrome cover over it 'cos it's covering the end. You could try to pull off that cover, which will reveal the steel 18mm nut. How about visiting a breakers yard for a set of cheap steelie nuts. 

31 minutes ago, nicam49 said:

you're supposed to use a different style of wheel nut for steelies than the ones used for alloys.

You are correct.  Those are the wrong wheel nuts for steel wheels.

What the OP has there in the photo is a very battered Ford 'global' wheel nut for use only on alloy wheels.

Set of 16 nuts for less than £14 including delivery.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/1883912

14 hours ago, runcyclexcski said:

This is 100% a "normal" nut after being stripped and buldged (I know this nut soooooo well by now 🙂) The locking nut is still wider and has an additional "rim" on it.

I am thinking to get a 19.5-18.5 split socket to remove this and the remaining nuts. People on youtube have all kinds of tricks to remove spinning capped nuts (including hole saws...)

Blimey, that one really has been battered!  

With there being so much access space around a steel wheel, rather than an enclosed alloy, I'm wondering if you could get a set of mole grips squeezed tightly on it at a slight angle?  Then just smack them with a hammer.  Keep all other wheel nuts tightened to take the pressure of of this one while doing it.

 

..or try to rip/cut away the casing with a Dremel to expose the steel nut beneath, then use a n 18mm socket.They do love their windy guns, don't they.

 

Found this problem on my car after a garage did some work for me.

I bought a set of twenty replacement nuts from ebay, with a set of black plastic nut covers so the new nuts don't show rust.

Well, the steelies are on the car for about 3 months a year. What's the worst case scenario if I use the "shiny" nuts with steel wheels, i.e. which part will corrode first -- the steel wheels? Dremmeling away 16 nuts sounds doable, but may take a while. I am glad that I ordered the "alloyed" nuts anyway, b.c. the alloy wheels are going back on the car in a month or so, and the one-piece nuts will be easier to remove in the field.

The shop should have passed on some of this knowledge to me, rather than abusing my poor nuts (this just sounds wrong). 

35 minutes ago, runcyclexcski said:

Well, the steelies are on the car for about 3 months a year. What's the worst case scenario if I use the "shiny" nuts with steel wheels, i.e. which part will corrode first -- the steel wheels? Dremmeling away 16 nuts sounds doable, but may take a while. I am glad that I ordered the "alloyed" nuts anyway, b.c. the alloy wheels are going back on the car in a month or so, and the one-piece nuts will be easier to remove in the field.

The shop should have passed on some of this knowledge to me, rather than abusing my poor nuts (this just sounds wrong). 

If you use a single hexagon socket, you should be able to tap it onto the damaged nuts with a hammer, and they should then undo.

Sets of impact sockets are relatively cheap: https://www.toolstation.com/draper-12-inch-square-drive-impact-socket-set/p61348

Or, buy a single 19mm from ebay.

If you aren't happy with the garage, go back & tell them, or find somewhere better!

Not sure WHY you shouldn't use the wrong nuts with steel/alloys.... I'm thinking it's a safety thing but don't know what or why. 

1 hour ago, runcyclexcski said:

The shop should have passed on some of this knowledge to me, rather than abusing my poor nuts (this just sounds wrong). 

It's never nice to have your nuts abused 😉

Ford made a big thing about what nuts should be used with which wheels a good few years back now.

The angle of the cone is different and the shoulder is also different on steel wheel nuts verses alloy nuts. The use of the incorrect nut can cause them to become loose over time. With alloy wheels it can also lead to damage of the seating of the nut due to the nut biting in to the softer surface.

 

2 hours ago, unofix said:

The angle of the cone is different and the shoulder is also different on steel wheel nuts verses alloy nuts.

Alright, this does serious then, thank you. Will get a set of nuts for the steel wheels then.