While removing front wheel of my fiesta mk7 I noticed it seemed hard to spin freely. I decided to take the calliper off to have a look at brake pads and give the area a clean. The brake pads were very difficult to remove and stuck in the anti-rattle clips. After a good clean and a little bit of grease on the ends they now move more easily in the clips and the wheel spins more freely. 
 

The pads have lots of thickness on them but I noticed both ends of the pads have worn badly. What has caused this uneven wear? Should I get new pads or will it just even out now I’ve stopped them sticking in the clips? 
 

Thanks!

That's how they were manufactured.

They're chamfered to reduce brake squeal.

1 hour ago, Nic Williams said:

and a little bit of grease on the ends they now move more easily

Given just how hot brake pads and discs get, you can expect the grease to melt and end up on face of the pads and even on the disc. On the plus side the wheel will spin nice and freely even when the brakes are on 🙁

On 3/9/2025 at 7:14 PM, Nic Williams said:

While removing front wheel of my fiesta mk7 I noticed it seemed hard to spin freely. I decided to take the calliper off to have a look at brake pads and give the area a clean. The brake pads were very difficult to remove and stuck in the anti-rattle clips. After a good clean and a little bit of grease on the ends they now move more easily in the clips and the wheel spins more freely. 
 

Hats off to you for doing this maintenance job on your car - every day is a school-day, even for some of the old comedians who live on internet forums, so as above that is how (nearly) new pads look.

There is nothing wrong with applying a 'grease' to a few well chosen points on the back/edges of a brake pad, but they key is the type (and melting point) of the 'grease'.

Various companies make copperslip / alumslip / nickleslip which have differing/increasing melting points and should be suitable for brakes - do some research.

Best points to apply such grease is on the back of the pad where it contacts the piston (there may be a thin metal plate between the two) and the guide rails in the caliper and the 'ears' on the pad - clean everything off first without using any kind of oil-based product, and use a minimum of grease so as not to attract more dirt.  You only need a tiny amount, and obviously keep it away from the friction material and surfaces on pad and disc.

On 3/9/2025 at 7:14 PM, Nic Williams said:

After a good clean and a little bit of grease on the ends they now move more easily in the clips and the wheel spins more freely. 

It is worth removing the clips and filing down any corrosion that might've arisen behind them as that (and/or corrosion on the ears themselves) is usually what ends up causing the ears to stick in my experience.

It is not unknown for the piston to stick in the brake cylinder.  I have replaced calipers before now on two Fiestas, albeit a little older.  Although the brakes are effective, the pistons do not retract, but drag on the disc.

PS.  Do you not wear gloves when doing such tasks ?

On 3/12/2025 at 4:07 PM, MJNewton said:

It is worth removing the clips and filing down any corrosion that might've arisen behind them as that (and/or corrosion on the ears themselves) is usually what ends up causing the ears to stick in my experience.

I was surprised how stiff they felt even after I’d cleaned off the dust. So I had a second go this time sanding the ears giving a much better fit. Wheel spins great now.
 

I wonder how much fuel economy is lost with sticky brakes. 

On 3/11/2025 at 8:59 AM, orangecurry said:

Hats off to you for doing this maintenance job on your car

Thank you! I do all my own DIY but for some reason never touched cars. Decided it’s time to learn now I have an old car that needs some tlc. I’m enjoying the challenge and it saves me cash too. Forums like this make it possible. Invaluable experience some are so willing to share.