Hi all, looking for some input on an ongoing issue with my 2013 1.0L EcoBoost Fiesta (manual).

About a month ago I had the engine replaced following a head gasket failure (a garage had mucked up and left the pipe that takes the coolant away from the engine unclipped, pipe popped off, coolant came out, engine went boom... luckily got them to pay up for the replacement rebuilt engine). Since then, I’ve noticed the car shaking at idle, especially when cold. At first, I assumed it might just be the ECU re-learning things or the mounts settling in, so I didn’t immediately look into it.

However, over time the shaking seemed to get worse, not alot and not noticeable when the vehicle is actually moving, but did seem to be progressing into something more serious.

I inspected the torque mount  and it looked quite worn, visible cracking and movement. I replaced it with an aftermarket one (seems stiffer than OEM), but the shaking has remained the same, and in some conditions (e.g. AC engaged) it feels a bit worse.

I'm now wondering whether the driver’s side top engine mount is failing, potentially the old soft torque mount had been masking some of that vibration, and now the new (stiffer) mount is transferring more through the chassis?

I’ll attach photos of the driver side mount, the old v new torque mount and here's a short video of the engine idling (it may look like there's fluid on the mount, it's not, just where my thumb wiped away dust/dirt): 

 

I have done minor work on cars in the past, very basic things like spark plugs, coil packs, handbrake cables but I have little confidence in my diagnostic ability here, I would really appreciate any of you can give me advice on:

• Whether this sounds like the upper mount is the likely culprit

• If not... any other ideas?

• Anything else worth checking

Cheers in advance!

Update here, hoping for some thoughts from yourselves.

Changed the top mount, shaking decreased but became evident the engine itself is running rough - so think maybe just bad (or good) timing on one of the two issues occurring at the same time.

I hooked up Forscan, noted misfires, EWMA last 10 drive values were: Cyl1 = 1, Cyl2 = 42, Cyl3 = 19, with my most recent 30min drive hitting actual values of Cyl1 = 3, Cyl2 = 213 and Cyl3 = 81.

I've changed to new spark plugs, no change in issue - all torqued per recommended settings. I swapped coil packs between all cylinders, no change in issue. I've checked the resistance on the fuel injectors, all reading 1.9ohm, which as far as I can verify is good - there's no fluid around the injectors/sparks, all seem well situated and undisturbed. 

Honestly a bit stuck, cylinder 1 seems pretty perfect, about cylinder 3, not sure what a normal amount of misfires is - but cylinder 2 is definitely not behaving.

As with before, seems to run well when driving, no issues accelerating and MPG is very good, but at idle it's not so pleasant.

It's looking to me like I need to replace the fuel injector on cylinder 2 - really hoping someone here with some experience can confirm if that's a logical conclusion or not.

Thanks to anyone who replies in advance, I really appreciate it.

I had Forscan pull some data whilst doing my morning commute today, to help visualise the issues.

Here's a little graph of short term fuel trim v throttle position - green bands marked at -/+ 5% short term fuel trim change. Very evident that at idle, trims are erratic.

 

The full dataset used for this graph, including several other metrics can be found here: https://jmp.sh/s/po9OL24xAOupJNXTj41A

Here's the Mode 6 report, which I ran whilst the engine was still running at the end of my commute:

Component / System	Test description	MID	TID	Value	Units	Min	Max
O₂ Sensor B1 S1	Unknown test	1	B0	1.092	(ratio)	0.3	1.999
O₂ Sensor B1 S2	Rich → Lean threshold (const.)	2	1	655.6	mV	655.6	655.6
	Lean → Rich threshold (const.)	2	2	655.6	mV	655.6	655.6
	Rich → Lean switch‑time (calc.)	2	5	10	ms	0	2 000
	Fuel shut‑off Rich → Lean resp.	2	86	390	ms	0	5 000
	Down‑stream osc. lower voltage	2	C0	660.6	mV	0	660.6
	Down‑stream osc. upper voltage	2	C1	660.6	mV	660.6	1 130.0
Catalyst B1	Mean sensor V vs model	21	C0	1.204	(ratio)	0.999	19.988
O₂ Heater B1 S1	Heater resistance	41	C0	819.7	°C*	760	6 553.5
O₂ Heater B1 S2	Heater resistance	42	C0	126	Ω	0	2 660
Misfire Cyl 1	EWMA (‑10 cycles)	A2	B	1	counts	0	65 535
	Current drive‑cycle	A2	C	0	counts	0	65 535
Misfire Cyl 2	EWMA (‑10 cycles)	A3	B	38	counts	0	65 535
	Current drive‑cycle	A3	C	118	counts	0	65 535
Misfire Cyl 3	EWMA (‑10 cycles)	A4	B	17	counts	0	65 535
	Current drive‑cycle	A4	C	70	counts	0	65 535

Any thoughts shared are appreciated.

Evening all, a fresh update from me.

I replaced the injectors on cylinders 2 and 3 - absolutely no change in misfire behaviour.

Decided to pull the spark plugs out that I fitted not long ago, prior to injector change, and to me it looks like cylinders 2 and 3 spark plugs are worse for wear than cylinder 1 (which has all this time had almost 0 misfires). I'm thinking failing injectors might have naffed up the spark plugs, so even though the injectors are replaced I'm still having misfires as now the sparks are all damaged? I'd appreciate it if anyone would be willing take a look at some photos I grabbed and let me know if these look bad enough to cause misfires.

I didn't think about it at the time I had them out, but I'm going to swap the sparks between cyl 2 and 3, as 2 is misfiring far more than 3, so if it is the plugs I'd surely see cyl 3 start misfiring more than cyl 2.

If it's not this, then I've also learned that when swapping certain parts like camshaft sensors or say... the entire engine... it's needed to run a camshaft position relearn, failing to do so could cause symptoms such as imbalanced cylinder misfires. I'm wondering if maybe the garage forgot to do this since the engine swap and that was the issue all along, another thing I'll try tomorrow.

Anyway, in the mean time if anyone would comment on my photos, I'd appreciate more experienced eyes on them.

Thanks,