Can anyone help, I've retrofitted rear electric windows into my Fiesta OEM style, replaced with both correct modules, door switches, rear door looms and drivers front master switches. I then ran the LIN wire from the drivers door module to the rear door and LIN wire  from the passenger module to the rear passenger module. I ran each door and earth and it's own fused 30amp wire.

Both doors are working from the master switch and from each on door switch however, ALL switches for rear wether on door or master do this weird thing. When pressing down or up the windows move just an inch at a time so in order to to fully open you have to tap the button say 4 times, same in both directions. At first I thought it might be sensing perhaps an obstruction and doing the window bounce that the front ones can do but even gently helping the window with my hand doesn't help, just moves 1 inch then stops until I tap the button again. Is it this expected behaviour ? I thought I would just hold the button to make it go all the way up or down in one go.

I've checked the main doors controller and can't see anywhere to enable anything and I've also enabled global open and close (this doesn't work either)

I made a video to show what it's doing so you can see it in action... Or not as the case is haha.

 

 

Have you taken the window through the learning process ?

Power the window fully down and when at the bottom, hold the switch down for 5 seconds. Then power the window fully up, and hold the switch in the up position for 5 seconds. You might have to repeat this process a couple of times.

Yeah tried the basics but it's not window bounce which is what that procedure resets. Mines not bouncing it's just moving 1inch at a time. If you press it down 3 times, mark it with a finger, go up 2, down 1 up 1 down 2 it will go back to exactly where you marked it, I don't think it's a sensing issue. But then the global open/ close doesn't work either when it's enabled but that could be me not doing it properly.

Did you replace the door modules in the two front doors with the ones which support rear door electric windows ?

Parts catalogue for Fiesta:

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/vehicle?c=FORD201911&ssd=%24*KwHK_u_Vzsqsz7bNlMyYm5KGpqG_zsHMzd_ww4uNvqq2srCz9uHNp4mNibiut6bg_ffKw7iWnYqKnYHs9snZzM_JztOC0-_Who6XzbjIz8iRngAAAADOYx7H%24&vid=0&q=

What's the part number your talking about ? 

My front door modules are the high version not standard, I just needed to add pin 5 (LIN) and I can control the rear doors from the drivers master. If they were wrong wouldn't they not work at all? 

If you have the ford number I can check mines H1BT-14B531-AE HIGH version.

 

If you already have the high version then that's fine.

Have you used FORScan to see if there are any Ford specific DTC's ?

Yeah checked with forscan no DTCs at all, I did read that the door modules don't throw up codes, saying that though it knew I had disconnected the speakers because it did come up with that initially on install ( new doors had B&O speakers ) so had to replace mine with them 😆

So I take it the windows should just go up smoothly then?

I do have the newer modules the doors came with, the black ones but I was told I had to use the same type as the front doors because you can't activate global open and close and throws a LIN configuration error

Ok so I've fixed the issue with the windows moving 1" at a time on one of the doors (I'll swap modules later today). The white label module on the left matches the semi part number of my front modules and is what the Reddit post alluded I needed because in their words, you get LIN incompatible configuration errors and the global open/ close don't work along with the led in the buttons going off using the black ones.

Luckily I didn't throw the black label modules away with the door cards and regulator's and fitted one this morning, the windows now go up and down perfectly but I've not had chance to check for config errors as yet because I want to change them both over before messing around with them.

I'll update the post later with my findings just so people in future who may have this knowledge about it.  I may even take the white label module apart see what's inside, maybe a sense resistor is incorrect or it's literally just a firmware problem on them I don't know. 

The white label module has every pin on the connector populated where as the the black label one has very few pins populated, not sure why, cheapness maybe as the black ones are dated much newer than the 2018 model white labels..

 

 

So the plot thickens with this, in order to get global open/ close to work you need the matching white or black label module in the rear doors, for me its the H1BT white label ones but these only work with the 6 pin window motors with built in hall effect sensors. So basically looks like Ford cheaped out the doors on the new models (2019+) and made black modules with built in sensors so they could have cheaper window motors with only 2 pins.

so in essence if your car has white master modules in the fronts you need the white label modules + 6 pin window motors as well. if yours has the black modules then the 2 pins modules and the black label modules is what you require ( if you want the FULL OEM experience with globals etc.. ) 

In for a penny in for a £ as they say, i've gone full OEM as already had the modules anyway so paid £40 for the 6 pin motors X2.

As soon as this crappy weather clears up ill re-fit the new motors, add the 4 extra wires and fully test with global open/ close.

what a palava!

 

7 hours ago, a7mag3ddon said:

In for a penny in for a £ as they say, i've gone full OEM as already had the modules anyway so paid £40 for the 6 pin motors X2.

Sometimes you wish you had never started a job 🤔

As you say your so far in with this now you have to see it through to the end. Good luck 👍

I could stop here the windows do work, smoothly how they should now but I'd like them fully OEM with the global open and close feature.  

I can see light at the end of the tunnel though 😆 

 

Ok all done, got the global open and close working fully OEM. There was 2 missing as built changes that are needed as well as the usual BCM/IPC changes.

I have added the required changes below in case anyone in future wants to do this retrofit / mod.