I know for a fact my 2010 1.6 tdci zetec s has the tzja 8v engine. Forscan shows me that it is the regular 1.6 dv6 90ps. Forscan has the option to change the configuration to either the dv6c or dv6.

 

1. Is the tzja the c or d?

2. Would changing this brick anything?

3. Currently it shows permanent 0% calculated load, and ive been advised this is a dpf related matter. Knowing that some of the 16v engines didnt come with a dpf up to 2012, would changing this solve my problem?

4 Forscan has no option to see calculated soot load either. Would changing the engine option solve anything?

Screen shots, photos and videos can be provided if someone would find them useful in answering any if the questions.

20 minutes ago, SquidgyB7421 said:

1. Is the tzja the c or d?

Not sure, sorry, someone will know

20 minutes ago, SquidgyB7421 said:

2. Would changing this brick anything?

Absolutely, if you enter wrong config into the PCM it will fail

 

21 minutes ago, SquidgyB7421 said:

3. Currently it shows permanent 0% calculated load, and ive been advised this is a dpf related matter. Knowing that some of the 16v engines didnt come with a dpf up to 2012, would changing this solve my problem?

No, not at all. You need to fix the issue

Either clean and reset the DPF or remove and map out

22 minutes ago, SquidgyB7421 said:

4 Forscan has no option to see calculated soot load either. Would changing the engine option solve anything?

I highly doubt it

The issue im having is that the ecu seems to be missmatched to the engine and may be thinking that the dpf doesnt exist and it may be causing damage. 

Cleaning and resetting it wont change that.

I dont want it mapped out.

Unless I'm missing the point...
Check Jimmy for strategies after checking you actually have a DPF (cylinder with two pressure pipes and likely two temperature sensors?):
https://www.youtube.com/@ORileysAutos
I concur with his view:
Test the differential pressure engine off (sanity check), idle, 3000 rev/min - and would likely confirm DPF is fitted?
Find and fix the underlying instigating problem that is causing the DPF to block.
Once that done, clean the DPF (avoid forced regens if at all possible)
Then, and only then, reset the DPF soot loading parameters.

1 hour ago, Shearers said:

Unless I'm missing the point...
Check Jimmy for strategies after checking you actually have a DPF (cylinder with two pressure pipes and likely two temperature sensors?):
https://www.youtube.com/@ORileysAutos
I concur with his view:
Test the differential pressure engine off (sanity check), idle, 3000 rev/min - and would likely confirm DPF is fitted?
Find and fix the underlying instigating problem that is causing the DPF to block.
Once that done, clean the DPF (avoid forced regens if at all possible)
Then, and only then, reset the DPF soot loading parameters.

Ive not got a blocked dpf. I know i have one. It has a pressure sensor and two temp sensors, how ever, they both show up as catalyst temp sensors. Forscan and scanners show the differential pressure.

My problem is that forscan says the ecu is configured for a different engine than the one in the car, and I know the calculated load is 'calculated' by the MAF recorded airflow and the dpf pressure. Tuning places tell me that if its permanently 0, which it is, then the ecu may not be reading it correctly. That may be occuring because of the configured engine in the ecu being different to the engine thats in the car, meaning the ecu isnt registering it has a dpf fitted.

My question is is it safe to change the configured engine type to the one thats actually in the car to see if it solves the calculated load problem. I also believe it may be sooting up the tail pipe because its not doing regens properly, or opening the injectors more than it should, because of that engine config on the ecu possibly not registering its there.

Is that clear?

I may be able to see the confusion, my missing links are:
What is the history i.e. how long have you had this car, how has it worked in the past, has anyone "modified" it, why is all of this happening?
If you have serious soot on the tailpipe (see Jimmy's test) then either, there's no DPF or it has failed by cracking or someone has drilled it out or otherwise removed the core. IMHO if there's anything more than a fine layer of soot then DPF is not working/missing.
Soot loadings are inferred/calculated, sensor pressure readings are proper data so...
What are the DPF pressure readings as suggested above?
They would confirm the state of the filter i.e. if the pressure differential is always low, that confirms there's no effective filtering: engine off, 0, idle 10 mbar, 1 kPa Max, if more than 100 mBar at 3000 RPM then action needed (ideally 60-80 mBar)
I don't subscribe to deleting DPFs, EGRs etc etc as Ford did a lot of work to get things to meet emission specs.
Likewise, I am not qualified to comment on anything to do with changing set up as I (we) don't know the history/reasons and the consequences are perhaps dire.
Please come back with answers to the above to help wiser heads than mine?

Purchased 7th august 2024. The only history i got was the 4 previous MOTs anf it had only dont about 8k miles in those 4 years. I had no problems apart from the front wheels were out of round. Changed all 4 wheels. Started having vibrations in the pedals, specifically between 60 and 70 in the brake pedal, whilst moving, not when braking.

First thing i changed was the front discs and pads to make sure they werent the issue. Didnt resolve it.

Was due timing belt and water pump anyway so had that done, didnt resolve it.

I interupted what appeared to be 2 regens within s month and the oil dilution light came on. Changed oil and filter and reset the light, hasn't come on since.

Changed injectors as one had a very low return compared to the others. That didnt change it.

Despite being in with 3 different mechanics and 2 mot centres, they saw nothing wrong or a possible cause.

I acquired forscan to see if it showed any more data than my scanner, and noticed a permanent 0% calculated load. I cleaned the maf, map, throttle body, egr, and flushed the intercooler, reset the adaptions for the maf, throttle and egr, and my vibrations in the pedals were largely gone, but the load reading remained 0. I contacted various mechanics and tuners and they all asked "has it had the dpf mapped out"

I now have what seems to be a permanent vibration in the steering wheel, like a soft hum, and its not wheels or suspension.

i replaced all 3 engine mounts, no change. 

So, once again, my problem seems to be that the car has forgotten it has a dpf, and that would be the case if for some stupid reason, disconnecting the battery to do the timing belt or injector work has seemingly changed the engine config, but I have no idea what it was before.

Theres initial vibrations of the car which are more evident on a cold start and soften with a warm start.

The only thing that seems to be a problem, as its nothing else mechanical, is that forscan is telling me the ecu thinks it has an engine with no dpf, and its causing it to run with a vibration it shouldn't have. There appears to be no direct problem with the dpf itself. Pressures are about between 0 and 3 mbar at idle, and between 40 and 50 mbar at 3k rpm, which appears normal.

So, to re iterate the question, would the ecu thinking it has an engine with no dpf, whilst the engine itself clearly does, be the cause of a permanent 0% calculated load reading, and would any fuelling problem caused by this create the vibrations im getting, and result in a dirty exhaust? And could this be rectified with minimal chance of damage by seeing if changing the config to match the engine is a solution?

 

"forscan is telling me the ecu thinks it has an engine with no dpf, and its causing it to run with a vibration it shouldn't have. "

What on earth makes you think that that is the cause of the vibration?

You have employed a lot of rather suspect guesswork.

Try deleting all profiles from Forscan and start again. It might have decided to invoke a profile that has been previously stored from another engine

2 hours ago, anon said:

"forscan is telling me the ecu thinks it has an engine with no dpf, and its causing it to run with a vibration it shouldn't have. "

What on earth makes you think that that is the cause of the vibration?

You have employed a lot of rather suspect guesswork.

Try deleting all profiles from Forscan and start again. It might have decided to invoke a profile that has been previously stored from another engine

Its not been used on any other car but i will check what its stored previously. And because resetting the sensor adaptions got rid of the vibrations in the pedals and 3 inspections shows nothing mechanical causing it. Been balanced and aligned twice as well. Unless i have a dodgy steering rack, it would seem its a engine condition and the only thing thats suspect is it that.

 

When i had the injectors done, the place had it for 5 days and the battery went flat. I dont know enough about ecu management so im asking here.

A flat battery won't have caused the problem and now you are telling me that resetting sensor adaptations got rid of the vibrations you are complaining of. In your last post you said it was due to Forscan not seeing the right engine and now it is potentially the steering rack.

Over several months you have been firing random ideas at this issue including trying to change the base map of the ECU. You are beginning to look like a wind up merchant. The alternative is that you have absolutely no idea what you are doing and if you don't take the car to somebody who actually knows about engines and their symptoms, you will eventually end up breaking something 

Thats what happens when 3 mechanics cant resolve the issue. Whats a person to do apart from try everything? The steering wheel vibrations remain, but they arent symptomatic of a suspension or brake issue.

I either have something loose, something worn, or an engine not running smooth.

If those arent the causes, id prefer to hear what is rather than just being told im stupid and gonna break it.

Ive tried laying out all the details, but as you can read above, all im getting is replies, paraphrased "i dunno" "you arent telling me enough" "your dumb and you dont know what you're doing" "you're wrong"

I was hoping someone with knowledge would be running me through what may the causes, but nope. And thus the nature of forums being people without knowledge just go round in circles asking people without knowledge to solve issues that seemingly no one else has ever had.

 

So, as I understand it, the vibration(?) through the steering wheel is the actual residual problem and multiple related and unrelated things have been done to this vehicle which has a rather chequered (unknown) career?
My hopefully helpful comments (I KNOW you have "done" a lot of these but something may have been missed/still be wrong):
Vibration when pressing the brake must surely be due to discs not being seated correctly on the hub or actually warped?
Vibration through steering wheel is normally due to unbalance but can be aggravated by worn suspension parts, something with tyres (damaged/out of round etc) or caused by previous accident damage requiring a full suspension check (again, I KNOW you say you have done that)?
What about swapping wheels front to back or even getting a different one to swap to each corner in turn to see if one wheel is distorted/damaged (do you have a spare to do that easily?)
WE have had tyres that developed bulges all around or in one patch producing strange effects.
The DPF pressures, to me, imply that there is nothing wrong although you mentioned a black tailpipe which I have commented on above and it shouldn't be anything more than slightly sooty IMHO but that is likely a separate problem and all this focus on it and base programming when it seems to be working OK, sounds like a Rabbit Hole to me.
Changing an injector for "low return" appears unnecessary although injector performance may, in the ultimate, need checking (but not before everything else has been tried?)
Does disconnecting each injector in turn have an equal effect?
You then did multiple things around the sensor system and the vibration went away? (need to do them again, one at a time, to see if that was a real effect or coincidence?)
If it's a noise, rather than a vibration then check to see if there is a computer type fan in the steering column that is noisy - we had one and thought it was a wheel bearing going?
Does it vary with engine or road speed or ?
With all the chaff around, it's back to basics, changing 1 thing at a time to either remove the issue or make it worse which would tell you something?

 I didn't say that you were stupid,  but if you fail repeatedly to describe the problem which was an engine vibration then a pedal vibration then a steering wheel vibration, I, as somebody with considerable knowledge and experience for which I have no need to apologise realise that my time is being wasted and I can't be bothered to help you.

Furthermore, you say that you have "consulted" three mechanics. If you have been so vague with them, I am not surprised they couldn't help you. Try employing one to fix your car's problem.

Vague? Did you not read the essay of my history. How much more detailed and precise can i be?

I shall try again.

At this precise moment in time, i have a constant, regardless of speed/rpm/load/gear/clutch engagement/turning or straight/ braking or not, non changing in amplitude or severity, buzz/hum/vibration in the steering wheel. Previous to this, it was accompanied by vibrations in the pedals, that became concentrated in the brake pedal whilst at speeds between 60 and 70.

The only cause identified is the engine running condition, as i outlined in the paragraph above and previously, no suspension, brake, wheel or tyre issues. As a result, i reset the adaptions of the maf, fuel pump, egr and throttle. This resolved the vibration in the pedals, but not the steering wheel.

The only suspect of an issue is a 0% calculated load value regardless of driving condition, and a sooty tail pipe. I have no dpf lights, codes, or sensor issues. 

As a result, i performed a leak off test to see if it was a fuelling issue and injector 1 had basically zero return. I decided to have all 4 changed. The timing belt and water pump were due to be changed so i had that done. Neither of these resolved my issue. I had the front brakes done and again no change. I have taken it to 3 different mechanics and told them the same thing but none of their inspections resulted in identifying a cause. It has had the wheels balanced and aligned twice, swapped with known good ford original wheels and again no difference. It went to 2 different MOT places, 1 being halfords, who failed it on emmisions because of the tester deciding to red line it whilst measuring them. Passed at the other place within known good manufacturers spec.

At a loss, i obtained forscan and looked at the details, and noticed that the engine type it says the ecu has is not what the engine itself, to my knowledge, would be. The difference between the configured engine type and the installed engine is having a dpf and power/horsepower and torque output.

In consultation with tuners, i was repeatedly asked "has the dpf heen mapped out" or "does it have a dpf".

And here we are with me describing all of this 3 times and someone mentioning points i haven't mentioned and someone telling me im being to vague.

Do you get the vibration in the steering wheel when the ignition is on but the engine is not running?

35 minutes ago, pcaouolte said:

Do you get the vibration in the steering wheel when the ignition is on but the engine is not running?

No