Hello everyone i’m new on here, I hope everyone is doing great? I have a ford transit custom 2016 eco blue, it cranks but won't fire,I started her up got her in the position then i replaced 1 side of the brake pad, but doing that i left something on, Went to get back in to turn it around to swap sides and battery was flat, but a jump pack on and it just cranks, fully charged battery and still cranks

 

Things i’ve checked & Changed

Wet belt/ pulleys turning upon cranking so wet belt not snapped

New fuel filter 

Cracked of injector fuel pipes & fuel sprays out

Has anyone got any fuses diagrams & personably know any ford mobile people out there

When cranking if it’s jumped a tooth it would still start wouldn't it but be lumpy as hell Correct? or not? Only saying as when i crank it there is something nocking sounding like the exhaust straight pipe banging (example) I simple turned it of to work on it then left the battery to go flat and now even with a jump starter and full battery she just cranks?

 

Any help would be appreciated 

Is this a 2.0 EcoBlue?

You need to use FORScan and read the Ford specific DTC's before you do anything else.

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Edited October 5, 2025Oct 5 by custom driver
New to site, wasn't sure how to reply to comments don’t know how to delete comment so edited and posted blank

17 hours ago, unofix said:

Is this a 2.0 EcoBlue?

You need to use FORScan and read the Ford specific DTC's before you do anything else.

Yes it’s the 2.0 eco blue, i have done diagnostics with FORscan  will attached the images of the faults tomorrow, Just a quick 1 if the brake pad warning light has shown up will that stop it from firing up? I’ve been told it will for safety reasons but this is the place where i would believe answers 

5 hours ago, custom driver said:

the brake pad warning light has shown up will that stop it from firing up?

No.

Far more likely the wet belt has gone.

8 hours ago, unofix said:

No.

Far more likely the wet belt has gone.

Wet belt defo not gone pulleys turning if belt has gone pulleys wouldn’t turn when cranking

12 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Wet belt defo not gone pulleys turning if belt has gone pulleys wouldn’t turn when cranking

Are you wearing X-ray glasses ? 🤔

The wet belt is 100% fully inside of the engine and can not be viewed from the outside. What pulleys are you referring to ?

 

3 hours ago, unofix said:

Are you wearing X-ray glasses ? 🤔

The wet belt is 100% fully inside of the engine and can not be viewed from the outside. What pulleys are you referring to ?

 

No need be cocky 🙄 All you gotta do is Take the oil cap of and you can see inside and get someone crank it over whilst looking inside 🤷🏻

1 hour ago, custom driver said:

All you gotta do is Take the oil cap of and you can see inside and get someone crank it over whilst looking inside

.....and that much is true, but it still doesn't confirm the belt condition or if it has lost some teeth. It's not me that has a broken van but when you say.....

5 hours ago, custom driver said:

belt defo not gone pulleys turning

that does not say to me that all is guaranteed to be well. Use FORScan and check for timing DTC's like crankshaft/camshaft correlation issues. 

14 minutes ago, unofix said:

.....and that much is true, but it still doesn't confirm the belt condition or if it has lost some teeth. It's not me that has a broken van but when you say.....

that does not say to me that all is guaranteed to be well. Use FORScan and check for timing DTC's like crankshaft/camshaft correlation issues. 

No DTC’s relating to that, just these, Left the battery go flat whilst doing 1 side of the breaks and just cranks after that and won’t fire up

6 hours ago, unofix said:

Are you wearing X-ray glasses ? 🤔

The wet belt is 100% fully inside of the engine and can not be viewed from the outside. What pulleys are you referring to ?

 

 

Is the battery fully charged now ?

If yes, then disconnect the battery negative lead for a full twenty minutes. Then reconnect it and WAIT for 5 minutes before turning on the ignition. This will fully reboot all modules, and in the correct sequence.

19 minutes ago, unofix said:

Is the battery fully charged now ?

If yes, then disconnect the battery negative lead for a full twenty minutes. Then reconnect it and WAIT for 5 minutes before turning on the ignition. This will fully reboot all modules, and in the correct sequence.

I’ve trickled charged it and put it back and it’s been a good half of day and still the same no different situation 

1 minute ago, custom driver said:

I’ve trickled charged it and put it back and it’s been a good half of day and still the same no different situation

Do you know what the battery standing voltage is now ?

When you turn the ignition on, can you hear the tank fuel pump run for a few seconds ?

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

Do you know what the battery standing voltage is now ?

When you turn the ignition on, can you hear the tank fuel pump run for a few seconds ?

12.6 when u turn the key fuel pump kicks in, took injector fuel pipes of and fuel comes out , changed fuel filter, as thought it was that still same 🤦‍♂️ ordered ignition switch from amazon to try that, Anyway u can check the switch?

It's not going to be the ignition switch if the fuel pump runs, and the engine turns over.

Is there any chance the jump pack was fitted the wrong way round to start with?  

I've never seen that IPC fault code before, and wondering if it could have been spiked by the jump start.  99% of jumps are fine, but the odd one does spike electronics occasionally.

49 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Is there any chance the jump pack was fitted the wrong way round to start with?  

I've never seen that IPC fault code before, and wondering if it could have been spiked by the jump start.  99% of jumps are fine, but the odd one does spike electronics occasionally.

Defo not mate, jump pack is protected and wouldn't work if fitted wrong way 

55 minutes ago, unofix said:

It's not going to be the ignition switch if the fuel pump runs, and the engine turns over.

Ive seen videos of vans turning over but not firing up, for £20 its worth a try, 1 less thing 

9 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Defo not mate, jump pack is protected and wouldn't work if fitted wrong way 

Fair enough.  I still wouldn't rule out a spike from the correct way though.  If you don't get any luck with the other parts, I'd send the IPC away to be tested myself.

8 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Fair enough.  I still wouldn't rule out a spike from the correct way though.  If you don't get any luck with the other parts, I'd send the IPC away to be tested myself.

Would u say this belt needs to be on the pulley more? 

Belt should run in the centre of the pulley.

It does look like the belt has slipped over to one side on those pictures.  Also looks like belt debris splattered on the engine behind the pulley.

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

It does look like the belt has slipped over to one side on those pictures.  Also looks like belt debris splattered on the engine behind the pulley.

Would u say that then mate? if its jumped a tooth then it would still start but be lumpy ext so not sure what think? Also if i take the belt cover of you have to replace it as it bends

4 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Would u say that then mate? if its jumped a tooth then it would still start but be lumpy ext so not sure what think? Also if i take the belt cover of you have to replace it as it bends

Yes you'll need to replace the cover if you remove it, it'll never seal properly again.  By that point you might as well replace the whole belt kit.  A new cover is only £40 on its own though.

I'm not 100% sure from the info we have so far unfortunately.  I think it will probably have lost a few teeth rather than just skipped one but wouldn't recommend cranking it any further to confirm that.  Your call unfortunately.  That IPC code is still niggling in the back of my mind.