My car has done 52000 miles and is now over 8 years old. I have decided to have a go at changing the wet belt this summer. I have been looking into how I might go about this. I have quite a few questions regarding this, some of which I have listed below. I am a novice DIYer, but I have changed many cam belts of previous cars within the family. I know that this is probably going to be the worse one I have ever attempted.

1. Which timing kit should I go for. I notice that on ebay there are listings that provide full kits, for example

   ebay timing link

   or maybe go for something like gates example

   After all the effort I would like to get something that will hopefully last and do the job.

2. I need to buy a timing kit. Lots of cheap ones on ebay e.g. Timing tools

   I would prefer to get a laser 6952, but its way too expensive for a one-off job. Does anyone have experience of using the cheap ebay tools, or have any other suggestions?

3. I have never needed to use a torque multiplier before. The good ones again are expensive. Has anyone ever used one of the cheaper torque multipliers from ebay. e.g. torque multiplier

   Are they good enough to use? Will they do the job? I am hoping that using one of these will mean less stress whilst laying under a car thats is on stands. It will probably mean that I have a better chance of doing the job well.

I know that i could get a garage to do the job, but I just feel that if I do it myself, that I hopefully make sure that I clean the filters and get the right kit for the job. Any comments on the above questions would be very helpful. I do wonder if i am going to byte off more then i can chew with this job, but I am looking forward to the challenge.

Thanks for reading this.

Having been an aircraft engineer in the RAF for 36 years and having experience changing timing belts on many of my cars, even I would not attempt this.

Plus as you say being a novice DIYer its an awful lot of kit to buy and one mistake could see the engine ruined.

Bite the bullet and find a reputable garage in your local erea to do it for you.

Thank you John for your comments, which I am sure is very good advice. I will think on it. Just to let you know my position. I am retired, so to me it will be more of an interesting project. I am pretty busy on and off helping my children with general DIY (plumbing/electrics etc), but would easily have the time to work on the car for 4 or more weeks this summer (no rush for me). We have two cars, so if it was to take me 4 weeks then its not a big problem for me.

I am used to working under a car...in fact last January I helped my son replace the flywheel on his focus TDCI, which saved him a lot of money and we had quite a bit of fun doing it. We replaced the clutch and both driveshafts while we were doing it. The worse thing about it was the diabolically weather...we frequently got very wet!!! That's why I would want to do this job in the summer months.

Money is not a big concern, although like most people, I do like to save it when I can. However I do not want to buy the wrong things, hence my post. I must admit I would not attempt this job, if it was not for all the amazing help on-line... forums,you tube etc.

One last comment. I do have a lot of tools already (collected over the years). The timing tools and torque multiplier that I have referenced above would cost me less then £100 in total. But are they good enough for the job??? That's what I don't know. That's why I am asking the question.

I really appreciate your input, and yes I will think on it, but I am quite keen on giving it a go myself.

Thanks again

I wouldn't buy Ebay rubbish.

Do lots of research, watch lots of youtube videos of how to do it AND, more importantly, what tools you do and don't actually need.

I would buy the genuine Ford timing kit, really, don't scrimp it.

If you feel confident go for it

Remember to check for and remove any caviar, especially the turbo feed and the vac pump

Turn the engine lots and lots of times, by hand, before you put the timing cover back on to check, check and check again that the belts are fitted correctly and the timing is correct

Good luck

Watch baz meredith on youtube, he's done a number of timing belt changes on the 1.0 ecoboost.

Thanks Dave and Chris.

On 3/18/2026 at 11:49 AM, DaveT70 said:

I would buy the genuine Ford timing kit, really, don't scrimp it.

A lot of youtube videos show the use of the the Lazar 6952 which I can get for about £175. So am planning on getting that. I will try and follow all your other advice.

At the moment my biggest concern is torquing up the crankshaft bolt. To buy a good multiplier would cost me more then £300. I suppose that I could try and sell it on ebay after I have used it. I wish I knew how good the following are:- amazon 303-1611 or ebay 303-1611

ChatGPT seemed to recommend Neilsen CT7364 (budget wise), which is a little bit more expensive, but chatGPT suggests that is a little bit better quality.

On 3/18/2026 at 7:26 PM, kingsblue said:

Watch baz meredith on youtube, he's done a number of timing belt changes on the 1.0 ecoboost.

Thank you...I have been watching a lot of these youtube vids. I would not contemplate this job, if these vids was not around.

Thanks again.

Basically, any torque multiplier can be used. It does not need to be the original Ford torque multiplier or one of the cheaper (usually Chinese) engine specific copies.

The engine specific torque multiplier has the advantage that it comes with all plates, adapters, etc. that attach to the engine block to handle the counter force generated by the torque multiplier.

When using a generic torque multiplier you either have to make the plates, adapters, etc. yourself or use alternative ways to handle the counter force generated by the torque multiplier. This for example can even be a long bar that redirects the counter force to the floor or for example a subframe.


The original torque multiplier has a true torque multiplication ratio of 5:1.  However because of the gearbox losses of the torque multiplier itself the actual gear ratio will be approximately 5.45:1 

Using the original torque multiplier Ford prescribes to perform the following steps:

1. Torque to 60 Nm (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
2. Stage 1  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 2  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 3  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 4  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 5  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).

When using a torque multiplier with a different ratio you have to recalculate these values according to the actual torque multiplier ratio.



As an alternative it is also possible to a torque wrench for the 1st stage and a long breaker bar and angle gauge for the remaining angles. 

Without using the torque multiplier the following figures apply:

1. Torque to 300 Nm (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
2. Stage 1  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 2  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 3  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 4  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 5  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).

2 minutes ago, JW1982 said:

As an alternative it is also possible to a torque wrench for the 1st stage and a long breaker bar and angle gauge for the remaining angles. 

Without using the torque multiplier the following figures apply:

1. Torque to 300 Nm (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
2. Stage 1  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 2  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 3  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 4  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 5  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).

That's very useful to know.

Not sure if I'm being daft but why does the angle still need to be done in 5 stages? Why not just just 1 stage of 82.5 degrees?

There are several reasons to tighten a torque to yield bolt in stages:

1: Even tensioning of the bolt. Gradually twisting the bolt stretches it more uniformly.
2: Prevent over-stressing the bolt. A single large-angle turn could exceed the bolt’s elastic limit, risking permanent deformation or breakage.
3: Accommodate the crankshaft’s metal. Crankshafts and pulleys have some flexibility; staged tightening allows the load to distribute evenly across the flange.

The original procedure uses stages to obtain the correct angle. In my opinion the same principle should also be used when not using a torque multiplier.

Ford 1.0 P4JD P4JA P4JB P4JC Timing guide WITHOUT TORQUE MULTIPLIER!!

Just a Youtube example of changing the wetbelts without using the torque multiplier.

Thank you Tom & Wilko for your help.

Locking Kit:- I have changed my mind. I was going to but the Laser, but now have decided on the Sealey. It does the same job, has good videos on how to use it and is slightly cheaper.

Torque multiplier:- Because I am working with the car on stands I have decided to go with a torque multiplier. I want to try and make my life easier. I know that I could also probably get by by using a cheaper multiplier from amazon or ebay, but think that I will stick with the Neilsen CT7364. I have a Dewalt DCF900 which I hope that I can use to get the crank bolt out (If not then I will use the Neilsen). Then I hope that I can use the Neilsen to torque the new bolt up.

I'm just not brave enough to try and get by without the multiplier.

I am now going to start looking at the costs of the belts and parts that I will need.

Thanks for all the help.

If you invest in a torque multiplier ayway, you should also use it to get the old crankshaft bolt out.

To be honest for the price of that torque multiplier kit I would not bother using alternative methods. Prices of these torque multipliers decreased significantly within the last few years.

A few years ago the cheapest torque multiplier available was over 600 GBP. With those prices it was quite beneficial to use alternative methods.

Thanks again for all your help.

I've got the required tools and am looking at getting a GATES kit + a few other items.

I do have one last question regarding the Torque multiplier. Wilko gave a good description:-

On 3/22/2026 at 1:53 PM, JW1982 said:

Basically, any torque multiplier can be used. It does not need to be the original Ford torque multiplier or one of the cheaper (usually Chinese) engine specific copies.

....
The original torque multiplier has a true torque multiplication ratio of 5:1.  However because of the gearbox losses of the torque multiplier itself the actual gear ratio will be approximately 5.45:1 

Using the original torque multiplier Ford prescribes to perform the following steps:

1. Torque to 60 Nm (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
2. Stage 1  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 2  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 3  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 4  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 5  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).

When using a torque multiplier with a different ratio you have to recalculate these values according to the actual torque multiplier ratio.

I am going to use the Neilsen CT7364.

Might this have a slightly different ratio to the original ford one? It says that it is 5:1, can I assume taking everything into account that it probably would be similar to the 5.45 ratio. Its probably not an issue anyway? The actual angle of 16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt) will probably be the same???

Thanks again

Just use the instructions that come with the torque multiplier. Many aftermarket torque multipliers (for the example the Laser torque multiplier) come with instructions that are somewhat different from the Ford instructions.

If it does not come with any instructions, you should apply the Ford instructions.

Thanks Wilko.

No instructions with the Neilsen, so I will apply the ford instructions.

Thanks for your help.