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2005 Mondeo Tdci Cuts Out On Return To Idle, Help Please! :(

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Hi all, new here, just entered ford ownership and having trouble..........

Full story :

2005 mondeo tdci 130

70k

Bought with a noisy dual mass flywheel, I used the car for 3-4 days and it was fine, dual mass rattled and starter was goosed, so parked it up until I could do it.

So on Friday, I fitted a dual mass delete, so solid flywheel, clutch and slave cylinder, new starter motor. No problem.

During fitting we noticed the crank sensor had been rubbed, but I felt it was ok before so should be ok now. Wrong....

I serviced the car, fram filters, oil, air, pollen, fuel etc.

On the drive home I came to a junction and it just cut dead, started up instantly again.

Did it 4 or 5 times, I just presumed the sensor was knackered, so replaced it. No different at all.

So if you sit and rev the car to 3-3.5000rpm and let off it stops, or if you drive and come to a junction etc it will do the same.

No lights on etc, anyone got any ideas?? Fed up with it already! :(

Cheers

Steve

Serviced, oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter (fram parts) used.

On the d



hi

have you got any obd software you can plug in it sounds like the injectors might of lost there codes

as doing some reading i found they can do this

hope this helps

i have just brought a great tool for this it was £80 as i tried f super but that was not able to code injectors trust me

i shall give you the email of the person that does this

http://forum.fordiag.cz/index.php

this is the guys email

[email protected]

name is Tomas Chvatal

tell him john mayo from uk sent you

look on you tube for coding mondeo injectors

hope this is of any use

john

f super will code the injectors on a 2005 tdci i have used it on my 54 plate 115hp and worked fine also reads and clears the dtc's as well as displaying live data.

  • Author

Hi there, thanks for the responses, I have brand new autel diagnostic kit, no fault codes present.

The car starts and runs fine, will idle all day long, and is fine until the rpm is raised and them released from say 3000rpm. Then it stops.

Surely it would play up otherwise if it was injectors? Has anyone else fit a dmf delete? Could it be anything to do with that?

Cheers

Steve

i too have a solid fly wheel fitted and have found it to be no trouble. i borrowed a friends generic code reader when my car played up ( has 3 injectors leaking back to much) it was autel he uses it on vw's all the time and works fine. connected to my ford showed nothing but f super showed 2 codes my suggestion is try a different code reader that will read ford specific codes

  • Author

Will try that next! Thank you.

  • Author

i too have a solid fly wheel fitted and have found it to be no trouble. i borrowed a friends generic code reader when my car played up ( has 3 injectors leaking back to much) it was autel he uses it on vw's all the time and works fine. connected to my ford showed nothing but f super showed 2 codes my suggestion is try a different code reader that will read ford specific codes

What was yours doing pal? Exactly, any lights on etc etc?

there is more that one conversion kit for the mk 3 so it could be that you have the wrong flywheel and the crank sensor is not getting the correct signsl from it, check to see if the supplier gave you the right kit.

What was yours doing pal? Exactly, any lights on etc etc?

mine was putting the flashing glow plug light on when travelling up hill or if you failed to change down early enough and put the engine under increased load had codes p0211 and p1211 strong smell of diesel at front end increased fuel consumption calculated not trip computer and fluctuating fuel rail pressure viewed as live data

Hi there,

Take the crank angle sensor out again and check for iron filings, sounds tome after fitting the new sensor that it has picked some more of the old d/mass flywheel up.

I am talking from experience as I brought a Mondeo estate 150 last year as a non runner, it had had a new dual mass,starter etc etc from ford at a cost of 1150 quid, shortly after the work it had started cutting out at 3000-3500 revs depending on how warm it was,it too would restart straight away but again cut out when it got to 3000-3500 revs. I got it home and started at the bottom and took the crank angle sensor out and sure enough the sensor being an electro magnet had a pyramid of Iron filings on the end, I cleaned it up replaced and ran for a couple of days and again it started cutting out, again I removed the sensor and again it was a pyramid affair of iron filings.........repeat 5 times and it stopped cutting out and ran like a rocket!

The place that fitted the dual mass etc did not clean the housing out whilst fitting the new flywheel and all the debris from the old one was just being thrown onto the sensor, eventually the filings as they build up will stop/weaken the pulse being sent to the ECU so the ECU says thats not right and shuts the engine down, obviously the threshold for weak C.A.S. pulse is set at 3000-3500 revs.

My car also stored no faults for this!

Hope that helps?

cheers

  • Author

The more and more I look into it etc, the more I feel that the flywheel is an issue somewhere.

  • Author

Just thought I would update this, it was the flywheel, changed for luk dual mass, car runs perfect with no vibrations or anything.

Cheers all.

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