It states he did pull the fuse but not if its still out....the pcm can go faulty and stay on but it wouldn't drain a battery that quickly whatever it is its drawing a lot of power to run a battery down so quickly

Guys, driving home from work tonight and the air con turned on. I know this comes on automatically with the blower, but I had already turned it off and never changed any settings.
Does anyone know which fuse to pull for the air con ? I have the fuse layout and can see "air conditioning clutch", and "dual zone climate control.

Checked the boot light Andy. All good.

the aircon wont run with the engine off but the engine fan can worth checking to see if this is off after switching off it can take 30 secs after aircons switched off after that it should stay off

Cheers Artscot.

Beg your pardon Arthur , Next time I will read fully instead of skipping lines, I only say the radio as there is a thread on here somewhere .where the radio was faulty causing the exact same problem and I am sure they had to fully unplug it to find out.

Didn't mean it that way mate lol I assumed with the fuse removed it would switch it off completely

Didn't mean it that way mate lol I assumed with the fuse removed it would switch it off completely

I'm having a similar issue my my 2007 1.8tdci Ford Focus. The car had the original battery up until last year. With the original battery in July 2013, I drove down to Manchester airport and left the car there for a whole month, but despite being left for that length of time, the car started first time.

Then last year I dropped it off for a week to get body work done and when I took the car home, it started going flat after a handful of days sitting in the drive. It got to the stage that I would jump start the car, take it on a decent motorway run and it would be dead by the following morning. I replaced the battery last year with the same Ford battery and as I cycle to work, the car is only used at the weekends and it's happening again with the new battery.

We've got two cars now, instead of just one. I'm wondering if it's lack of use or whether the stereo that was fitted to my car after the drive to Manchester is causing a parasitic drain. I've already swapped an amplifier this week as it was causing a separate issue (popping noise from the head-unit after the engine was switched on which has now been eliminated).

I've also watched the you tube video that mentions anything above a 50mA draw as being excessive. I don't have a multi-meter, but I'm wondering if I'm going to have to connect it up and see if there's an excessive draw.

Is it normal for a car battery to die after 2 weeks? (car died over the Christmas holidays). I've ended up buying a CTEK battery charger because of this. I've had other cars in the past that maybe only got driven at the weekend and were fine.

Sorry to high jack the post, it just sounds quite similar.

Hi guys,

Ended up bringing the car to a garage that passed it on to an auto electrician, who couldnt find the fault. Brought it to a different mechanic who replaced the battery. Problem solved.

After all the messing about with load tests and dodgy Halfords batteries and everything else, it turned out to be the battery after all.

The stock Ford battery was replaced with this...http://www.yuasa.co.uk/batteries/automotive/ybx3000-smf-batteries/ybx3075-ybx3075.html

Paid £65 for it. Not SILVER calcium, but from what I've read in the forums a calcium battery should be ok.

@Jockstar...Does your car have stop/start ? Form what I've heard, if your car constantly uses the stop/start it can take its toll on the battery. I live in a small town with far too many traffic lights for its size, so the stop/start is working overtime. Think this is why my battery failed.

Just a guess...

No my car doesn't have stop/start. My Dad's car has that function, but I find it annoying and therefore I'm glad I don't have it! My mechanic checked by battery for voltage drop and current draw and was of the opinion everything was fine. I just don't drive the car enough I think.