HI, I bought a Silverline Oil Extractor Pump to be able to change the oil without getting under the car. However my plan failed since I was only able to extract half the oil, even using a thinner pipe. It seems I was unable to reach the bottom of the sump.

Is this how these pumps are supposed to work or should it be a tight fit to create a vacuum to be able to extract the oil from the bottom?

Anyone has experience using these pumps, on a 1.6tdci maybe?

dont you just feed the pipe through the dipstick and suck it out that way?

Sorry to say I would definitely not use a pump on any modern diesel engine because of EGR valve dumping carbon in to oil aswell as DPF.

The 1.6TDCi engine in notorious for turbo failure due to carbon caked oil sumps as standard,

Sucking oil from top will enrich the carbon level in sump leading to turbo failure by blocking the pipe feeding oil to turbo.

if any engine should be drained from the sump while using engine flushes it's definitely this engine mate.

I have same engine now approaching 200,000 on factory fitted turbo through preventative maintenance.

You may like to view Guides

Blanking EGR Valve 1.6TDCi

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/42915-guide-fitting-egr-blanking-plate-16tdci-engine/

Oil Catch Tank 1.6TDCi

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/74245-guide-fitting-oil-catch-tank-16tdci-ford-focus-mk2-mk25/

Induction Filter upgrade 1.6TDCi

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/36783-green-cotton-performance-induction-filter-fitting-guide/

I agree with Lenny, this engine needs TLC and lots of it, 6k oil changes, EGR blanked, oil catch can install and a large amount of paranoia to go with it

for the sake of a few quid buying some jack stands or ramps, id not risk pumping it, in fact I think it even says in the Haynes manual not to use a pump.

I did a flush on it the other day then did two cycles of clean oil before installing good oil and even then it was still coming out black. If it wasn't for the damend DPF covering the sump id have had that off and cleaned too, removing that is a PITA tho. one thing I will say tho before I installed the catch can and EGR plate the oil would come out slightly lumpy, after the work its been smooth each and every change.

Interesting - Sorry for the stupid question but what is the purpose of the oil catch can? Is it to prevent oil from getting to the turbo and/or the MAF sensor? I was of the impression that the tiny amount of oil from the breather helps to lubricate the turbo...

I have same engine now approaching 200,000 on factory fitted turbo through preventative maintenance.

That's very good going. Just curious how long the original clutch lasted...........assuming you still don't have the original fitted?

haha, my original clutch gave in after 85000miles... remapping to 140bhp was the last straw i guess :D

Interesting - Sorry for the stupid question but what is the purpose of the oil catch can? Is it to prevent oil from getting to the turbo and/or the MAF sensor? I was of the impression that the tiny amount of oil from the breather helps to lubricate the turbo...

The breather dumps a staggering amount of oil in to the air intake, over 6 months mine captured about 100ml, this gets sucked through the turbo (which shouldn't need any more lube) and fills up the intercool degrading cooling efficiency, it is also blown up in to the inlet manifold where it joins all the crap from the EGR valve creating a black pasty substance that sticks to everything. There is some debate about how big an effect this can have but I shoved an endoscope inside my inlet manifold and the 50k it had done before I got my hands on it had restricted the passageway by about 30-40% that's just on cylinder 4, I couldn't get to the other 3 so it may have been less.

In any case, oil and or sticky carbon deposits getting sucked in to the cylinder isn't going to help prolong the life of your engine, I'm sure others would know better but in my mind carbon will eventually damage piston rings and the cylinder, oil will get burnt forming more carbon, all of which will work its way in to the oil sump, the carbon will join together creating small lumps which in turn blocks up oil lifter and filters, the important one that will ruin your day is the wee banjo bolt filter for the turbo, the turbo gets starved of oil and explodes!

worth keeping an eye on the injectors too, leaks here can compound the problem

haha, my original clutch gave in after 85000miles... remapping to 140bhp was the last straw i guess :D

I'm beginning to get the vibe mines on the way out too, 80k, some times when I boot it I get what feels like a small and quick wheelspin, ESP doesn't kick in tho. its absolutely fine and will stall the engine down to second gear with the handbrake on.

I'm in two minds tho, I can get one of two things done, Clutch and DMF or timing belt and water pump.... decisions!

Interesting indeed! Thanks for the explanation. I will certainly check about this and see where I can get my hands on a kit. Would it be possible to clean the Intercooler? My car has just over 112K miles so i guess there is quite a lot of cool in there?

Mind you I already blanked the EGR and removed the DPF and also changed the Injector seals. I am flushed the engine during the latest oil change. So, yes, I do treat ma Focus with a level of paranoia :)

Another question, does the 1.4 TDCI also suffer from the same problems? My wife has a newer Fiesta and maybe I can attach such a oil collector while still relatively new (8K miles)

I'm beginning to get the vibe mines on the way out too, 80k, some times when I boot it I get what feels like a small and quick wheelspin, ESP doesn't kick in tho. its absolutely fine and will stall the engine down to second gear with the handbrake on.

I'm in two minds tho, I can get one of two things done, Clutch and DMF or timing belt and water pump.... decisions!

to check the clutch put it on two or three gears too high (while on 3rd put it on 5th) and floor the throttle. If the engine revs but you don't go faster, then your clutch needs changing.

ah, I shall give that a go tonight, many thanks.

All cars will benefit from a oil catch can to one degree or another, I think the 1.6tdci is a bit more leaky than most tho. some cars come pre fitted with them.

That's my guide

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/71753-oil-catch-can-install-16-tdci/

And heres Lennys

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/74245-guide-fitting-oil-catch-tank-16tdci-ford-focus-mk2-mk25/

most important part is to make sure the can has large connectors, equal to the size of the breather, I think it was 22mm which will rule out 99% of all the cans on the market which tend to be no larger than 19mm.

anyhow I got mine custom made in the states, Lenny found a kit more recently which will need a little bit of modification to work effectively but is otherwise much the same. what ever you do don't buy the crap off ebay for 15 quid, when I was researching it I picked one up to see if I could mod it to 22mm but they are utterly crap and not worth it

I'm in two minds tho, I can get one of two things done, Clutch and DMF or timing belt and water pump.... decisions!

That's a no-brainer. Which is going to trash your engine when it fails?

My original clutch is on 150k at the moment although I don't give it a hard time. I'm hoping it lasts another couple of years because when it does go, it might not be worth the £800 or so that it will cost to replace it.

when you put it like that lol!

800 quid for a clutch and DMF tho? I priced up sache parts to be about 300 plus labour, 10 hours seems a little on the taking the pee side

when you put it like that lol!

800 quid for a clutch and DMF tho? I priced up sache parts to be about 300 plus labour, 10 hours seems a little on the taking the pee side

You may be right. The £800 was an "off the top of my head" quote from my trusted indy garage that I've used for years. I've just checked and a Sachs kit for the 2.0 TDCi will cost £395. Garage charges £53/per hour and I reckon it is a 3.5 hour job. so I would probably be looking at about £600 all in.

Strange with the oil pump, idea is it takes oil from the bottom of the sump, in tests it actually got more out than the drain plug. I have only used on my van. The oil filter is on top and you can suck the oil from the oil filter housing which I'm sure the garage would leave in. When I filled it back up it was that clear I couldn't even see it. Feed the pipe in the dip stick until you feel it touch the bottom of sump then pump. The drain plug always leaves the worst bit in the sump I saw test video, not the one below.

Don't think I want a 1.6 tdci looking at that, my brother did 300.000 miles in 1.9 jtd barely even serviced it, still going now with no engine issues.

Do not be cheeky to the tdci it will revenge you.

Use the sump plug and drain all the muck out

Jamie

My son has 1.8 TDCI which I look after it's abiit old school but really like it.