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03 streetka pcm error code p0200

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Hi all, I've been struggling to solve an error code that keeps setting, p0200 (injector circuit malfunction). The cars a 2003 streetka, 78000 miles. The problem started when I drove the car through what turned out to be a deep flood. Luckily the car made it through still running, no water intake, but a very wet engine bay. The pcm set a number of p0300 codes which after drying everything out and checking connectors were dry / clean etc all cleared. Since then p0200 won't clear. I've tried a change of injectors (second hand), still won't clear. I've also replaced the wiring loom which connects the injectors, throttle position, and maf to the pcm, still not clearing the code. Occasionally when clearing the p0200 code, p0100 sets instead (MAF circuit). With the MAF unplugged the p0200 clears, and p0100 sets instead. Could a faulty MAF be the cause of the p0200? The car runs fine. No misfire. Using no more fuel than normal and having listening to the injectors with a stethoscope they all click nicely with no irregular pattern. Any advise welcome, I'm stumped as to what to try next. Thanks Ed.

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This seems to be a common Streetka problem i've seen it 3 times this year on this forum - driving through puddle and same problem - Search the forum the answers are there! Happens on a lot of Fords Fiestas etc


I think the majority were fuel injector harness is open or shorted faults and ECU failure.

I have a sick feeling it may be the Ecu?


Might be MAF/P Sensor if the water has gotten into the air intake somehow then sucked past the hot pressure sensor on the MAF and shorted it but i would imagine you would get an OBD code for this all the time unless as you say its intermittent?


If it was me i would take the map sensor out and clean it - its a pain to get off though without removing the manifold but it can be done with some small tools - i didnt want to remove the manifold and managed it as I have a full garage of professional tools (thanks Dad! .>;O)) but you may find it hard without the right equipment - give the map a clean with carb cleaner or acetone if you dont have any and test the electrical contacts with a multimeter.


Problem is that it's a bit of a generic code - google P0200 & you'll see a list of possibilities but if you do a search here there are 3 people that had the same fault here in a Streetka/Ka after driving through water - i think the solution was wiring loom water ingress causing a short somewhere.


Good luck , it seems like you have a tricky one as you seem to have replaced all the wiring and done a good job in debugging it!


"Causes - Potential causes of an P0200 code include: Open or shorted injector Injector low internal resistance (basically an injector that works, but is out of specs) Grounded driver circuit Open driver circuit Driver circuit shorted to voltage Wiring harness intermittently shorting against underhood components Possible Solutions 1. If you have multiple misfire/injector codes, a good first step is to unplug all the fuel injectors and then turn the ignition on, engine off (KOEO). Check for presence of battery voltage (12 Volts) at one wire of each injector connector. If all are missing, check for continuity to ground on the voltage circuit by using a test light connected to positive battery and probe each voltage feed. If it lights up, then there is a short to ground on the voltage feed causing a short. Get a wiring diagram and repair the short on the voltage feed and reestablish proper battery voltage. (Don't forget to check for a blown fuse and replace as necessary). NOTE: It's possible for one injector to short out the whole battery voltage feed to all the injectors. So if you have lost voltage to all the injectors, replace the blown fuse and plug each injector in, one by one. If the fuse blows, the last injector you plugged in is shorted. Replace it and retest. If only one or two battery feeds are missing, then it's more likely to be a shorted battery voltage feed in the individual injector wiring harness. Inspect and repair as necessary. 2. If you have battery voltage fed to each injector harness, then the next step is to get a noid light to check for injector driver operation. A noid light will insert into the injector harness in place of the fuel injector and flash rapidly when the injector driver operates. Check each fuel injector connector. If the noid light flashes rapidly then suspect the injector. Ohm each fuel injector if you have a resistance specification. If the injector is open or the resistance is higher or lower than the spec, replace the fuel injector. If the injector tests out, the problem is likely an intermittent wiring problem. (Remember that a fuel injector can work properly when cold but go open when hot, or vice versa. So it's best to do these checks when the problem is occurring). Check the wiring harness for any chafing, or the injector connector for loose pins or a broken lock. Repair as necessary and retest. Now, if the noid light doesn't flash, then there's a problem with the driver or the driver circuit. Unplug the PCM connector and ohm the fuel injector driver circuits. Any resistance means there's a problem. Infinite resistance points to an open in the circuit. Find it and repair it, then retest. If you can find no problem with the harness and there is no fuel injector driver operation, then check the PCM powers and grounds. If they are okay, the PCM may be at fault."

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0200
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

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Hey Omendata, bad news I'm afraid, swapped out the MAF sensor tonight for a tested second hand one. Before starting the car I checked the DTC codes and two had set, p0100 which relates to MAF and p0300 which relates to cylinders, strangely no p0200. Once the car was running I checked again and the only code to set was p0200 injector circuit again. Unless I've got really unlucky and fitted duff second hand parts, it would seem your hunch about the ECU would be right ... Has anyone ever attempted to remove one and have it tested? I'm a bit gutted, the cars really tidy for its age and reliability wise until now its been one of the good ones. sighhhh

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The ecu can be damaged mainly by a faulty coil pack which damages the ecu internally its the most common cause of ecu failure - you can repair the ecu if you have electronics knowledge.I am an electronics guy I managed to repair my old Rover 820si ecu and saved myself over £500 and rescued the car for another year or so! Your car sounds like it might becoming like my Streetka - too many problems one after the other is a sure sign to get rid as they will just snowball regardless of the type of car in my experience. Ive stupidly held onto my Rover for too many years but it hasnt cost me much because i do all my own fixes but it would have cost me many times the cars worth = dont be like me just punt it on and buy something more reliable like a Fiesta or Corolla - these Streetkas are a bad buy second hand , bad on fuel consumption and just a pain when something goes wrong - their design is quite bad as well with many things hard to remove or riddled with design faults/cheap parts.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Update to answer the problem for anyone else in the future. Purchased a second hand ECU off eBay. £30. Car runs great and no dtcs logged. Bit of graft required to release the dash, and nerve racking moment drilling out the shear bolt. But it would seem worth it. MOT next week.

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