intermittant window fault focus cc3 2008

[Matty N]

Hi Guys, anybody had this issue with the drivers window on a 2008 focus cc3, When you are driving along the window drops 10mm then shuts it keeps on doing this as you drive along,When it drops you can use the electric switch to open the window, When you close the window it returns to the open 10mm position. after 3 or 4 mins will close fully. I have reset the windows, I have scanned the car for fault codes none, I have replaced the drivers locking mechanism with a new one from fords, I have changed the window regulator/ controller what else can it be.The window works fine when you open the door it drops when you close door it returns as normal, The electric window works fine up and down, when you are driving and it drops 10mm you can use the electric window switch to nudge it down 20mm and it stays there but if you close it and drive it goes up and down up and down doing my head in now

[Tdci-Peter]

I am guessing the wiring for the CC3 is basically the same as the standard Focus.

If so there are two window options: Basic & Smart.

The basic version is all controlled from the door switches. There is a small electronic circuit in the driver's one that does the auto open, otherwise it is just switches direct to the motors.

The smart version has a larger electronic module in both windows, with separate switches. The switches are also electronic, and are connected to the door modules via a LIN bus. I have not looked that up, but it is a fairly basic digital serial link.

The door modules are connected to the MS CAN bus, which goes to the GEM (in the passenger fuse box, aka PJB), and the Instrument Cluster (IC). This enables the windows to be linked to central locking, door opening etc. I would guess the CC3 has this version. Unfortunately it also means a multitude of causes for the problem.

You seem to have changed all the main bits, so either a replacement is also faulty, or the fault lies elsewhere. (I presume the window is being motor driven down, not just slipping down by gravity?)

If you used a standard scanner, it would not read anything from the MS CAN bus. It would use the HS CAN bus, which goes from IC to PCM, and handles all engine related functions.

So there could just be error codes in the door modules or GEM. A modified ELM327 with Forscan will read the MS CAN bus, and probably all its modules. Most modules have a self test function which can be started & analysed by Forscan.

You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool.

For ELM327 see:

http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992

One of these will pay for itself in no time.

you will also need a program called Forscan, its free and you can get it from

http://forscan.org/download.html

If all else fails, an extra isolating switch on the feed to the door module could be fitted. This seems to be pin 9 on C729, which is the connector on the door module. (Orange-Yellow if the diagram is to be believed). Comes from F134 in the PJB. Not nice, but may be better than having your head done in!

Sorry if this is a bit vague, I can only work from the diagram really, and it may not be 100% correct for your car, but I strongly suspect the MS CAN bus part will be the same. Perhaps another CC3 owner will pop up with a similar problem, given time.

 

 

[Matty N]

Thank you for the time you have taken to explain the function, The motor is motor driven not gravity,Is the cc  not different as when you open the door the window drops as with all convertibles then when you close the door the window returns to the closed position,The roof opening and closing is not affected as both windows drop for the operation.when i have got the door panel removed the door controller has two plugs on it when you remove one the window drops when you connect back up it returns to close.

[Brijohng56]

Hi all, sorry to jump on this topic, but I have a cc3 which when I open the roof, all's well, but when it's time to close the roof the rear passenger window doesn't drop down as far as the rest, any ideas?? Would help, also it looks like I need to remove the rear passenger panel to get a closer look in side, does anybody have any ideas how I can take off the panels, any help would be great,  did try the focus convertible site but not had any luck from it, thanks for a great site, brian

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, Matty N said:

is motor driven not gravity

What I meant by dropping under gravity is just the 10mm of incorrect (unwanted) drop. Full drop will be powered, I agree. But if it is creeping down due to mechanical wear, the circuit might detect this at about 10mm, then raise it.

If it is driving down the 10mm under power, then it looks like an electronics problem, possibly in the GEM since you have changed or checked everything else.

3 hours ago, Brijohng56 said:

, does anybody have any ideas how I can take off the panels, any help would be great, 

Matty N probably knows better than me.

But if the doors panels are similar to std. Focus, then it is just a series of rather awkward, hidden clips all round the sides. Slide a blunt knife or flat screwdriver under the edge, slide along to locate a clip, then use a forked tool or two screwdrivers, one each side, to lever out the clips. There are also bolts hidden by the grab handle.

Once the panel is off, hopefully you can check for mechanical (stiff or jamming) problems. I Hope that is what it is, electronic problems are more difficult to find or rectify.

Peter.

[Matty N]

There is a little micro switch attached to the lock /handle that opens when you open the door handle it is switching on the meter, tried the window today it was fine till I hit a pot hole and it started again could be a dry joint on the electronics

[Tdci-Peter]

If the fault is very irregular, and temperature or vibration dependent, then a connector problem, or a bad solder joint on a pcb, are possible causes.

Wiggle. or disconnect & reconnect connectors. Contact cleaner fluid sometimes helps, but rarely has a long lasting effect. Loose connectors can sometimes be bent a little to tighten them.

I have inspected 100s of pcbs for bad joints in my work. You need really good light, and a magnifying glass (not too strong, 2x or 3x is fine). Look from various angles, using the light to highlight cracks or gaps. Dark lines around the component lead or pad, or between the solder & the pcb pad, are the give-away. Take time, let your eye get tuned to detecting abnormalities.

.If you have access to a decent soldering iron, a fix is easy. If not, try local electronic/tv/radio repair shops (if you can remove the pcb).

Sometimes you have to wait for the fault to get worse before it can be tracked, though yours sounds fairly frequent already.

Any Help?

Peter.

[Mark Fitzgibbon]

Put my drivers window down and now it won’t go up it starts to go up then stops what could this be