Flat battery, tried to jump start and no joy.  Didn't even try to crank.  In retrospect I found I had wired up the jump wrong.  I'm guessing I have cooked some electrics somewhere.

Anyway, I'm trying to get it started and I'm running out of ideas.  All the dash lights come on but no attempt to crank - dead as a door nail. No clicks, sparks, smoke.  Nada.

So far I have tried:
Recharged Battery
Checked fuses (The Audio 6.5amp fuse had blown ?)
Checked engine relays
Checked starter motor
Checked ECU (sent off to fix but no fault found)

ODB reader connects but no faults found
Flashing PAS code indicates 1:2 - transponder error. (Tried key from position 0 to 2 four times within 6 seconds and pressing a button. When I do this, there is a beep after the 4 turns and confirmation beep so I guess the transponder and receiver work OK?)
Central Locking works

Both the battery and ECU have been out of the car for a while so I don't know if the PAS needs recoding to the key (which also had a new battery)

Any ideas? 

Also does anyone know of a link to a full wiring diagram so I can check and test continuity between all the components and check the various earths?

Question.  I guess the car uses a smart charge alternator. Is there anything here that would cause a non-start if it was fried? How would I check?

Thanks

 

Have you tried a different spare key or the master key? Is the immobiliser light flashing quickly?

Unfortunately I only have a single key for it so don't have the opportunity to try others out.

With the key in position 2, the light flashes steadily, maybe once every second for a couple of mins, then it repeats a sequence of 1:2.

 

1 hour ago, Dwair said:

With the key in position 2, the light flashes steadily, maybe once every second for a couple of mins, then it repeats a sequence of 1:2.

PATS flash code 12 seems to be a problem with the PATS transceiver unit. This is usually a coil & module, around the ignition key barrel. Could be a connection problem to it, or a failure in the transceiver. (PATS is the immobiliser system.)

Flash code 11 is supposed to be transceiver not connected, try dis-connecting it to see.

Rather stupidly, Code 21 is: Less than the minimum keys required programmed

12 & 21 could easily be confused. I think the gap between codes is a little longer than the gap between digits.

> Flash code 11 is supposed to be transceiver not connected, try dis-connecting it to see.

Thanks - will try that tomorrow and see if the code changes

> Flash code 11 is supposed to be transceiver not connected, try dis-connecting it to see.

Yeah, I think its 12 and the first time the wife tried it she though it was 21...

 

Hi,

I'd be suspicious of it not cranking, to me it sounds like either the fuse to the starter motor or the starter motor itself. A simple test is to take the motor off and connect it to a 12v supply, if it spins it works, if not it's broke.

 

Had both the engine solenoid and starter off and they both work fine :(

Sounds immobiliser or alarm related.

Ok... 

Looks like it was it's a PATs error 2:1  "Less than the minimum keys required programmed" as I have tested the transceiver.

I have got another key cut and programmed from an auto locksmith and I'm trying to get it to pair  it to the PATs but to no avail (all the instructions I can find say you need two working keys?)

Any ideas?

Can I use something like FORScan on a laptop to remove the old keys and program new ones?

 

20 minutes ago, Dwair said:

Can I use something like FORScan on a laptop to remove the old keys and program new ones?

Reputedly, Yes.

I just re-read the 1st post about the wrongly wired jump. It could be the pcm or IC lost its memory of the keys during that.

Forscan can also run self tests on the pcm, IC and BCM units. You have had the pcm tested, I see, and if the locking & remote controls work, the BCM must be at least largely working. But the IC is often also involved in the PATS process, so testing that would be a good idea.

The PATS programming process is a bit complex, but as the car is not working, you have nothing to lose by trying it.

Read:

http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=839

and related topics. I have not tried it, and would be interested to know if it works as they describe.

Do you have the suitable ELM327 adapter? If not, one that has been used ok is:

http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992

I would not advise a wireless adapter for this process, stick to usb.