It's just on the camera that the lights are flickering. When you're sat there they are constant. They were only on because like you say the hand brake and door were open.

The thing to take note of here is the noise right at the end, you might have to turn your speakers up to hear it! I'll try and get a better video today.

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I'll connect a multi meter and check it though [emoji106]

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13 hours ago, Dee_82 said:

Does the 1.8 have an anti shudder device, when it was turned off it made a right racket

No, there is no valve like on the 1.6. It does tend to shake & hiss for a couple of revs on switch off.

You are right about the LEDs, I should have guessed. They will be multiplexed, only one or two on at any one time, scanning too quickly for the eye to see the flicker. But it can interfere (alias) with camera frame rates.

17 hours ago, SamFoz said:

The flashing lights on the dash are just the camera haha.

I could not see clearly what lights were on, I was just guessing from previous things said. I have just checked on mine, the alternator light is on the rev counter, the two that are on match the handbrake & door lamps. So alternator is probably a red herring. 

It is worth checking the voltage anyway, if it is easy, as it certainly can cause odd faults.

I am not sure about the rattle or hiss at the turn off. The bonnet up makes quite a difference, and I can not recall switching my engine off with the bonnet up and door open. So I can not tell if it is abnormal. Nothing leapt out at me as being obviously wrong.

1 hour ago, Tdci-Peter said:

es quite a difference, and I can not recall switching my engine off with the bonnet up and door open. So I can not tell if it is abnormal. Nothing leapt out at me as being obviously wrong.

My parents fiesta (diesel) makes a whining noise, and a slight hiss at turn off - I always just thought it was vacuum leaking and some other doodad turning off.

I have a whine on my 1.6 but my mate has a 1.8 and whilst there is some shudder when its turned off its no where near as much as that.

in any case, one thing at a time, check the electricals, nice and easy to do, check the voltage out and see how it looks with the engine off, at idle, under acceleration, then do the same again but with the lights all turned on, high beams, dipped, the works.  there will be a small drop but it shouldn't be significant, you would still expect it to be around the 14v minimum mark.

ideally you would use a scope so you can see the fluctuations better but a meter would suffice for this, look for big drop offs and spikes if you can. You can use forscan / elmconfig to check voltages to various modules as well.

after that you can work on the basics, the engine needs air, fuel and compression to work, I would connect up forscan with an elm 327 device and monitor whats going on with them all, look for odd things.  I have a fuel pressure sensor fail the other month, looking at the traces you could see that the fuel pressure levels would fluctuate wildly when they should be stable, this would get so bad that the ecu would throw a fit and kill the engine to prevent damage, even tho there was no pressure issues, it was purely an electrical issue and the ECU can only work with the information given to it so it stopped it working.